Wheel Bearing Tools

[tyyost]

My wife just picked up a 2012 explorer, and while it was a good deal it has a bit more growl on the highway than I would think is normal. I started looking at wheel bearings and saw they are the bolt in unit style.

The first video I saw literally had the guy sledgehammer his hub for a long time to knock it loose, and after reading online that seems normal. I have come across two tools, the ATD 8629 which looks like a cheater to beat on to help lever out the hub. The other is a really neat press, from Pro Max, the Tommy. While it looks awesome the price would likely be the labor bill to have my local shop do the work.

Are there others that work? I’m ok investing in tools to do the job when it makes sense, and the work is straightforward, but knowing it’s PA on a 8 year old suv I’m imagining they will be as stuck as the ones in videos.

Any suggestions?

 

[joey1320]

Since it's a bolt-on, the most important thing is how deep the race goes onto the hub. A quick look online and on videos tells me there is about a inch and a half of metal on metal that has been festering in PA rust (I'm in Ohio )

With that info, I think only the Tommy tool would be the most useful one since the ATD will put angular force to the bearing as oppose to straight back, away from the hub.

Since I have access to car lifts, if I was in your position I would do this -

Plan Ahead. Spray the living **** out of the bearing/hub with rust remover/lubricant of choice. I like Thrust. I would do so 3-4 days in advance, repeatedly. This will hopefully give it time to penetrate and work on the rust definitely bound to be present in the unit.

When the time comes to work on loosening the bearing, I would use an impact hammer and try to make the bearing assembly rotate within the hub. So hit it right be the mounting points and try to make it go clockwise and counter. Once you're able to make it rotate, the bearing will come off with a few hits of a mallet since the rust has been "broken off".

The most important thing would still be the rust penetrant having time to work and lubricate the metals. Good luck.

If you skip to 7:55 mark you'll see the amount of metal that sits within the hub - yikes

 

[2ndGearRubber]

FWIW a bolt in wheel bearing is paying around 1.2 for the front axle, not 700 bucks like the pro max tool.

Without air, the hub shocker style is probably your best bet. Get some nuts the same pitch as the lugs to attatch it with. My preference is a 0.498 air hammer. But the 10lb sledge works too.

 

[Mr_B]

pick tool, penetrant, air hammer and maybe some heat is all i use and it generally not that much ballache .
Basically decent nano impact, long stroke air hammer and a die grinder for clean up about all need so if you got decent air you can equip yourself with some gamee changer tools pretty cheap .
beating the snot out of it with a sledge doesn't do rest of suspension any good and not a great method unless that all the tools you got .
Manufacturers to blame here as mating surfaces should be prepared with anti seize coating from factory, typical modern effort of supposedly simplifying replacement yet making it harder at same time as they too stingy spend an extra dime do it better .

 

[Buckgnarly]

When the time comes to work on loosening the bearing, I would use an impact hammer and try to make the bearing assembly rotate within the spindle. So hit it right be the mounting points and try to make it go clockwise and counter. Once youre able to make it rotate, the bearing will come off with a few hits of a mallet since the rust has been "broken off".

This works for me, epsecially with a .498 air hammer like the CP717 or the Astro version. You'll find many more uses for the beast too!

 

[bwringer]

I'd also make sure the other suspension components and the CV axle are in stock somewhere in case you need them. I mean, there are only eleventy-skrillion Exploders out there, so parts shouldn't be a problem.

In one absolute worst case on a different vehicle, I had to remove the knuckle and press the bearing unit out. A good hard shove with my 20 ton press finally cracked the rust. It's not unusual to need a new ball joint or tie rod end after that.

In another, the CV axle was also stuck tight and so we had to replace the axle after using a full size sledge to pop the ******* loose. I also once removed the knuckle complete with the axle to address the problem in a press.

And yeah, it sure would be nice if the accountants would allow a ha'penny's worth of anti-seize per vehicle.

 

[upper_tanker]

Although I can't comment on your vehicle, I have used the ATD style (not sure if more than one company makes them) before and it works GREAT. I've used it on probably 4-5 different plow trucks, all nice and rusty. Didn't have a single bearing that it wouldn't remove with ease. It was my dad's friends, he said when he bought it off the SO truck, the guy told him the ONLY time he has had one returned was when a guy forgot to remove one of the bolts holding the bearing onto the knuckle and kept hitting it.

 

[jsaw]

I used one of those hub shocker tools. The bearing was so rusted in place that when I beat on the tool with a hammer I ended up breaking the shaft of the strut. Ended up having to remove the knuckle from the car, and cut the bearing out with the torch

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I'd also make sure the other suspension components and the CV axle are in stock somewhere in case you need them. I mean, there are only eleventy-skrillion Exploders out there, so parts shouldn't be a problem.

In one absolute worst case on a different vehicle, I had to remove the knuckle and press the bearing unit out. A good hard shove with my 20 ton press finally cracked the rust. It's not unusual to need a new ball joint or tie rod end after that.

In another, the CV axle was also stuck tight and so we had to replace the axle after using a full size sledge to pop the ******* loose. I also once removed the knuckle complete with the axle to address the problem in a press.

And yeah, it sure would be nice if the accountants would allow a ha'penny's worth of anti-seize per vehicle.

I bought a 1/2 inch diameter, 12 inch long brass punch just for those axle issues you mentioned. Wail on it all you want, axle will be just fine. After you move it in a bit, hose it down with penetrating oil, and pull it back out with the axle nut, rinse and repeat. Works pretty well the majority of the time, not to say I've never pressed axle joints with the stub still stuck in the hub.

 

[FSrepair&fabrication]

Air hammer, sledgehammer, then torch depending on how bad it is. If its really bad get some extra hands and use all 3 at once. When the rust gets really bad penetrating oil cant really get in the seam quickly. Its only helpful if you can let it soak hours beforehand.

 

[rsanter]

What year? I have a couple of late 90s explorers here I'm parting out. If you need parts just let me know.
All I really want are the rear ends

 

[tyyost]

Since it's a bolt-on, the most important thing is how deep the race goes onto the spindle. A quick look online and on videos tells me there is about a inch and a half of metal on metal that has been festering in PA rust (I'm in Ohio )

If you skip to 7:55 mark you'll see the amount of metal that sits within the spindle - yikes

That was the video that made me think I should go tool shopping. I’m not a huge fan of wailing away with a sledge, even if it’s the “normal” way. I’ve been thinking about a long stroke air hammer for a while, I have an old CH i put a quick chuck on but watching that A1 video makes me sure my air hammer would not budge it.

Thanks for the ideas.

 

[tyyost]

Although I can't comment on your vehicle, I have used the ATD style (not sure if more than one company makes them) before and it works GREAT. I've used it on probably 4-5 different plow trucks, all nice and rusty. Didn't have a single bearing that it wouldn't remove with ease. It was my dad's friends, he said when he bought it off the SO truck, the guy told him the ONLY time he has had one returned was when a guy forgot to remove one of the bolts holding the bearing onto the knuckle and kept hitting it.

I know there are tons of fleet explorers, hoping to hear something similar that the ATD style works on explorer/Taurus wheel bearings since they are so deep. My old Pontiac was two/three sharp hits and off, but it wasn’t nearly as buried in the hub. I just did set of Escape ones with the Astro 78825 and was bummed it was a unit bearing style on the explorer.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Most people prefer the Astro Pneumatic Tool 78825.

A lot of it is finesse !

 

[tyyost]

What year? I have a couple of late 90s explorers here I'm parting out. If you need parts just let me know.
All I really want are the rear ends

Thanks, it’s a 2012 but I appreciate the offer.

 

[tyyost]

Most people prefer the Astro Pneumatic Tool 78825.

A lot of it is finesse !

It’s a great tool, too bad it won’t do an explorer style hub. I’d highly recommend it where it is applicable.

 

[ex-x-fire]

I don't use an air hammer unless this doesn't or won't work. I knock out a wheel stud and use a long threaded bolt and a nut to press against the knuckle. This video shows it.

 

[joey1320]

I don't use an air hammer unless this doesn't or won't work. I knock out a wheel stud and use a long threaded bolt and a nut to press against the knuckle. This video shows it.

Adding that to the tool box

 

[groundcoat]

My wheel bearing tool kit consists of:
OTC 7208A Hub Puller- I use it only to break the rust bond between the hub and the cv axle. Put down that hammer and use this.
Astro Pneumatic 78825 Bearing Press- I use good moly grease for the threads.
Astro Pneumatic 78830 Rotor & Bearing Puller-Awesome tool. You need one of these.
OTC 7703 10lb. Slide hammer- Don't waste your time with anything less.
Knipex 9" Straight circlip pliers-Haven't broke them yet.

 

[Lassen Forge]

I wailed on an Exploder front hub for hours wih a 10# slide hammer with added weight that was rusted to ****, to replace a bearing. I should have used a hydraulic claw and press set up, but I had no idea that it would be literally frozen together. What I got for my efforts was a bum elbow. A wasted morning. And a piss poor attitude about Ford Exploders.

Guess anti-sieze would make WAY too much sense. Probably broke some Ford rule when I used it on reassembly. Should have used Green Studlocker, so the next poor sap who replaced that bearing in another 20K miles could get the same level of "enjoyment" I did out of the job.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Most people prefer the Astro Pneumatic Tool 78825.

A lot of it is finesse !

The reason that hub can out with "finesse", is that the vehicle was cherry with zero rust. It doesn't even have scale on it.

 

[BolognaBlake]

As said before, get after it with a decent air hammer, hitting it on the ears rotating it left and right. Once it's moving, then get after it with a slide hammer.

Seems kinda silly paying $700 for a unitasker if you aren't changing explorer wheel bearing 40hrs a week.

 

[tyyost]

As said before, get after it with a decent air hammer, hitting it on the ears rotating it left and right. Once it's moving, then get after it with a slide hammer.

Seems kinda silly paying $700 for a unitasker if you aren't changing explorer wheel bearing 40hrs a week.

That’s the way I’m leaning now, an air hammer upgrade to something with known hitting power rather than try and struggle with my current cheapo hammer.

 

[tyyost]

I wailed on an Exploder front hub for hours wih a 10# slide hammer with added weight that was rusted to ****, to replace a bearing. I should have used a hydraulic claw and press set up, but I had no idea that it would be literally frozen together. What I got for my efforts was a bum elbow. A wasted morning. And a piss poor attitude about Ford Exploders.

Honestly this is what has me asking about tools. I’ll have to see if my local Napa has an ATD hub shocker style tool in stock in case the job goes to hell and just give it a go with penetrant and and air hammer to break it free.

The last thing I want to do is spend a Saturday beating the snot of something to hopefully get it out.

 

[qqzj]

This is the best. Cost nothing, works (seems) like that super expensive tommy tool.

I don't use an air hammer unless this doesn't or won't work. I knock out a wheel stud and use a long threaded bolt and a nut to press against the knuckle. This video shows it.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Mr_B]

you can use threaded rod coupler nuts cut to required length to fit with a bolt in them unscrew to load the hub, use 2 of them and the air hammer together and you can cope with most scenarios .
hydraulic spreader can be useful adaptable tool too .
No need spend big ...

 

[tyyost]

Those bolt tricks look slick, will definitely pick up some grade 5 hardware and some coupling nuts. Now to go air hammer shopping.

 

[Mr_B]

2 tips on coupling nut and bolt is bit of molybdenum grease on threads and a ball bearing slightly bigger than coupling bore sat in the coupler end against the work piece makes turning it under load far easier ...

 

[bob from indiana]

I replaced a hub on my daughters 2007 explorer today. I expected a rodeo but was very surprised that it came off easily. The last one I replaced took a lot of effort to remove. The Milwaukee hi torque impact I got for Christmas made getting the axle nut off easy.

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Never done a bolt in style bearing so I can’t help on that. But when I do them at work we have a Harbor Freight 20 ton press we use. I bought the same press for home and it works amazing for the press in styles and regular bearings no issues once so ever. So if you are looking for a press that’s the way to go.


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[theoldwizard1]

For bolt on hubs that are frozen on there are couple of things to try.

Simplest is replace the bolts but leave then a few threads loose. Start the engine, crank the wheel over until it is near the limit and wedge a 1/2" extension between the head of the bolt and some part of the frame. Apply force with the power steering.

Astro 4980 Super Heavy Duty Air Hammer. Require .498 shank tool (not common). $$$, but worth it for the professional.

Flame wrench. Heat the piss out of the area around where the hub mounts and then whence the hub either with water or a non-flammable aerosol.

 

[jonesg]

On rear wheels remove the brake cable, insert a drift (1/2" ext) and hit the bearing hub from the rear, drive it out in 3 good hits from a 4 lb'er.

It would be nice to have a jaws of life handy for front hubs.

 

[tyyost]

For bolt on hubs that are frozen on there are couple of things to try.

Astro 4980 Super Heavy Duty Air Hammer. Require .498 shank tool (not common). $$$, but worth it for the professional.

.

This is on my list. I was looking at Snap On PH3050 on eBay but the ones that don’t look rode had and put away wet put me in Big Nasty Territory fo sure. I have it, a quick change chuck and some Ajax bits in a wishlist.

 

[anndel]

This is on my list. I was looking at Snap On PH3050 on eBay but the ones that don’t look rode had and put away wet put me in Big Nasty Territory fo sure. I have it, a quick change chuck and some Ajax bits in a wishlist.

I have both the Astro big nasty and the SNap-on PH3050 and always reach for big nasty everytime I need to air hammer something.

 

[lethal-6]

We work on explores everyday and fight with the bearings was tough until we got the hub shocker, tool looks like the ATD one. Works great. If it won't do it use a hub grappler but thats a big expense but works. I just want to add my opinion.

 

[tyyost]

We work on explores everyday and fight with the bearings was tough until we got the hub shocker, tool looks like the ATD one. Works great. If it won't do it use a hub grappler but thats a big expense but works. I just want to add my opinion.

Thanks for the insight, the hub shocker videos were what made me think this job was going to take some different tools. Do you air hammer on the ears of the flange to try to break the rust bond first or just bolt on the hub shocker and pound it out?