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Wheel Lock Removers?

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G1GRANDEUR

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Those low profile sockets are not going to work.

Who's wheel lock are you removing?
 
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shampoop

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They are disposable tools and will get damaged overtime. The more thin walled they are the more versatile they are. Many times when you need to remove a lock you can't use a standard tool be cause the lug hole is too small.
 
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JLee1469

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Wouldn't this defeat the purpose of wheel locks? Anyways I know you can get the key if you know the manufacturer of the locks. Thanks for the heads up on the craftsman set, looks like it can come in handy.
 
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BHH

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rodm1 said:
They make some that clamp on the out side. I here they work very well but very expensive. UK AA recovery drivers use them for emergency flat repair.

Just weld a nut to them. Much cheaper.

Dynomec Ltd wheel lock removal

http://www.jhmbuttco.com/acatalog/info_TSS0310.html

http://www.jhmbuttco.com/acatalog/info_TSS0300.html
Click to expand...

Those first two products wont do a damn on a Gorilla Guard lug nut, they use unique patterns instead of a lock. The second product might work though.

I have also heard that if there is just one lock nut on the wheel you can over tighten the other lugs to the point where it will make the locking nut loose enough to come off. I have no idea if this is true or not, or if it damages the rotor.
 
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marcusicp

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Guy at work has this set Link and it works great but, now it isn't on the USA Snap-On site. I was hoping to pick one up later because I have borrowed his a few times. Not sure I can even buy one now.
 
OP
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dragonle87

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marcusicp said:
Guy at work has this set Link and it works great but, now it isn't on the USA Snap-On site. I was hoping to pick one up later because I have borrowed his a few times. Not sure I can even buy one now.
Click to expand...

That's very similar to Sunex Tools.
 
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BigAl62

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B

BigAl62

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marcusicp said:
Guy at work has this set Link and it works great but, now it isn't on the USA Snap-On site. I was hoping to pick one up later because I have borrowed his a few times. Not sure I can even buy one now.
Click to expand...

I also have this set - they don't work well on most locks, that's why I got the Craftsman set.
 
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TWX

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I know a guy who has a few different curved pieces of pipe. He hammers one on to a lug and spins it off.
 
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marcusicp

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BigAl62 said:
I also have this set - they don't work well on most locks, that's why I got the Craftsman set.
Click to expand...

My experience is the exact opposite! As long as you really hammer the sockets on with the Blue Point set they come off every time for me. The only time I had trouble was when I first used it and didn't drive the socket on hard enough and it slipped.
 
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rockchucker

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BigAl62 said:
This is the set I use at work and they work quite well, the best part is when they wear out Sears warranties them!
Click to expand...

100% They work great. Same with the Bolt Out series for removal of stripped head bolts.

TWX said:
I know a guy who has a few different curved pieces of pipe. He hammers one on to a lug and spins it off.
Click to expand...



This is my next go-to tool. I find a 12-Point Socket that fits over the Wheel Lock then take the next size down and a 4 pound mini sledge. Pound that f@#ker on there and remove with an Impact. Cheaper Sockets work best. You can use a Press to remove the Lug Nut once you have it off but the Socket is just never the same.

I was in a bind one time, no money, bald tires and 4 wheel locks without a key. I abused the Sears for this one. In the Sears Parking Lot mind you... Pounded on an 18mm Socket removed the Lug. Went inside Sears for a new one with the Lug jammed in the Socket. Repeated the process 3 times in about 15 minutes. Luckily they had 5 - 18mm Sockets on the shelf. The guy behind the counter was like WTF, ANOTHER one??? I had no other choice and had just enough money for 4 cheap *** tires to be installed. So yes I abused Sears but I don't do it on a regular basis.
 
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88thunder

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Just tighten the other 3 or 4 lugs (4 lug or 5 lug wheel) and try it with your fingers or pliers (needle nose vise grips have worked for me). I've done it many times at the junk yard.
 
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BigAl62

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marcusicp said:
My experience is the exact opposite! As long as you really hammer the sockets on with the Blue Point set they come off every time for me. The only time I had trouble was when I first used it and didn't drive the socket on hard enough and it slipped.
Click to expand...

I'm glad it works for you (I'm not trying to be a smart ***). I work on used cars (everything from Acura to Volvo and just about everything in between) and at least half or better don't have the wheel lock key. The smooth sockets work OK on aftermarket and factory McGard locks (they supply Ford, GM, Chrysler and some Japanese manufacturers), but not on factory ones that are not McGard sourced, at least in my opinion. I suppose that's why there are so many types out there, one type doesn't work on all locks. Also the blue tipped wrench that was suggested by binkcat16 is not an option as it messes up aluminum wheels before the lock gets hot enough to cut or grab with Vise Grips (also my experience, you may have had better luck the me). The company does not want to replace wheels unless absolutely necessary.
 
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shampoop

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BigAl62 said:
This is the second time I've read this, does it really work? I assume you're using the King Gator socket (the larger size one) as I think the regular one is too small. http://www.endeavorproducts.com/
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I really can't see how that would work on the most common style of wheel locks like this.
xl7_wheel_lock.jpg
 
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littletoes

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I've seen a Snap-On set on their catalog, but have no personal experience with them.

I've used the locking lugs for years, and only because I don't want to buy any more lug-nuts. They are priced outrageously!

Doesn't make any sense either.....can't you just break the things off with a hammer?? Well at least on a truck, where they are exposed.
 
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shampoop

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littletoes said:
I've seen a Snap-On set on their catalog, but have no personal experience with them.

I've used the locking lugs for years, and only because I don't want to buy any more lug-nuts. They are priced outrageously!

Doesn't make any sense either.....can't you just break the things off with a hammer?? Well at least on a truck, where they are exposed.
Click to expand...

On factory or factory like wheels (with normal size lug holes) they are very fast and easy to remove with a set like this.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-flip-socket-set-with-red-pouch/p-00947392000P

just put the flip socket on a breaker bar, put in on the lock, then tap it a few times with a large hammer as you're turn the breaker bar. Usually takes only maybe 10-20 seconds longer than removing a non-locking lug nut.
 
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