When are inexpensive tools "good enough"?

[AEAdam]

I have a lot of Snap On tools. But reading GJ, and respecting your views, I sometimes ask myself if I really need expensive tools for everything.

Did a brake job yesterday and bought a Lisle caliper compressor. Lisle make decent speciality tools of the sort you don't want to buy from Snap On. This tool was maybe $10. Snap On's ratcheting caliper compressor is $70 I think.



This is a very simple tool. A flat threaded plate and a molded knob. But it had a sharp edge all around it. (whatever, what do you expect for $10). That edge was so sharp, it tore my glove. Annoying. So, stopped what I was doing, filed the edges, new gloves, then continue with the job.



That's the thing with some tools. Cheap looks good on paper. Cheap sounds good on GJ. But it can be the little things, the littlest of things, that make a difference.

BTW, I used to use a little woodworking F clamp for this. Not sure this tool is an improvement on that.

So, where do you draw the line? What details have you experienced that would help GJ members?

 

[zendriver]

I try to buy better than the cheapest and replace, only if it does not perform adequate, which is almost never the case.

That looks pretty cheesy for a lisle product (didn't bother to smooth edges) but $70 for a similar high brand name product almost seems like a rip-off.

 

[Fedwrench]

I think inexpensive tools are good enough if they don't fail during repeated normal use.

Frequency of use is another issue. Some inexpensive tools lack the stamina to perform multiple iterations in a short period of time. Think pullers and ball joint presses or tools that if they fail, might hurt you.
The quality gap between expensive and not so expensive tools has narrowed greatly over the last 20 years.
Also keep in mind that 40% of truck brand price is to cover truck to you service.
I own a lot of truck brand tools but, over the last 10 years at least, my truck brand purchases have dropped to almost nothing. Your results may vary. You have to judge each tool on its own merits.

On a side note, the Snap on blue point version of that pad spreader is only $26.

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

I don't want to derail the thread but, there's also the notion that truck brands are worth their weight in gold and are perfect just by their name being stamped on something. For line wrenches that might be true but, for everything else, nope.

 

[d.mcfarland]

On a side note, the Snap on blue point version of that pad spreader is only $26.

I would bet that the Blue Point is rebranded. The handle compared to the OP's looks exactly the same.

 

[Paco Pena]

I have the same tool and a blue point. Both work fine. I prefer the blue point for multi piston calipers. Especially 4 piston versions.

Paco

 

[Zewnten]

Starting out I could only afford the cheaper options. Usually worked fine but when it didn't it really sucked. As I take on more and more things needing done I have less time to adjust cheap tools to make them work.

 

[AEAdam]

I don't want to derail the thread but, there's also the notion that truck brands are worth their weight in gold and are perfect just by their name being stamped on something. For line wrenches that might be true but, for everything else, nope.

Totally agree about the gap narrowing and all tools being better than they were 20 years ago. I think some of the HF stuff is better than the US craftsman stuff I grew up with. The popular raised panel VF wrenches really kinda sucked.

Regarding tool trucks. I struggle to honestly find a bad tool on the truck. The question is the degree to which they are better and if that matters to you. My expectation is that they get the little stuff right.

Example- I’m good with the HF toolboxes. But the latches are annoying. The old roll carts’ well wasn’t deep enough for snap on pry bars. Drawer layouts and depths are goofy, maybe not well designed (personal opinion). So while I’d have one no problem, I wonder how long it would be before the little stuff started annoying me.

As it happens I lucked upon a little SnapOn cart that cost me $350 brand new. It’s little, no frills, But everything about it is just a little nicer to use. Slides are nicer than HF, latches are like my KRL, easier to use. Drawers lock independent of the lid. I often use it lid closed.

Here it is yesterday doing proper shade tree maintenance. Note ancient craftsman fender cover, easily 25yrs old. Remember those? Anyone still use fender covers?

 

[KnurledNut]

I don't want to derail the thread but, there's also the notion that truck brands are worth their weight in gold and are perfect just by their name being stamped on something.

But truck branded tools do typically hold a higher resale value.

 

[Marvin Berry]

I have a lot of Snap On tools. But reading GJ, and respecting your views, I sometimes ask myself if I really need expensive tools for everything.

Did a brake job yesterday and bought a Lisle caliper compressor. Lisle make decent speciality tools of the sort you don't want to buy from Snap On. This tool was maybe $10. Snap On's ratcheting caliper compressor is $70 I think.



This is a very simple tool. A flat threaded plate and a molded knob. But it had a sharp edge all around it. (whatever, what do you expect for $10). That edge was so sharp, it tore my glove. Annoying. So, stopped what I was doing, filed the edges, new gloves, then continue with the job.



That's the thing with some tools. Cheap looks good on paper. Cheap sounds good on GJ. But it can be the little things, the littlest of things, that make a difference.

BTW, I used to use a little woodworking F clamp for this. Not sure this tool is an improvement on that.

So, where do you draw the line? What details have you experienced that would help GJ members?

I agree with your sentiment completely, but the tool you chose has failed me no matter what brand I buy (including the Lisle.)

Either the handle twists off, or the threads can't handle the force and it cross threads itself.

 

[Dave455]

Typically, the less expensive tools are usually “good enough” when they’re “mid range”, by which I mean a notch above the “Made in China” stuff, (which sometimes works, but so often just doesn’t) but are not Snap On level.

While I have some Snap On tools (and respect them enormously) the majority of my tools fall somewhere in that “mid range” category.

Maybe it’s because I’m in a different country to the majority of the readership here, but I sometimes get a bit boggled when I read that folks can’t decide between buying Snap On or Harbor Freight.

That’s a bit like going out for dinner and saying you can’t decide between Wagyu beef at a Michelin star restaurant, or a cheap burger from a truck somewhere - there is a world in between!

In some cases though, it comes down to folks just not knowing. That’s where forums like this can help.

 

[Firebrick43]

Specialized tools like brake pad compressors are not made by snap on. Every one should know that by now? Like every other tool manuafacture, they fill their line out with tools made by other companies.

I don't know what your trying to stir, but if your going to compare tools it better be something that snap on actually makes like wrenches, ratchets, or sockets.

 

[finn]

But truck branded tools do typically hold a higher resale value.

Who really cares about tool resale values?

I buy tools to get a job done, not barter, trade, or sell.

When I’m gone, the difference in value isn’t going to change my widow’s standard of living one iota when she sells, donates to charity, or otherwise gives them away

 

[Fedwrench]

But truck branded tools do typically hold a higher resale value.

Absolutely!!! Aside from the Craftsman Crazies, i don't think non truck brands fetch much in the used market.

 

[CHI_Tool&Die]

Anything I’m not going to be routinely giving the beans too, that could be exposed repeatedly to the outside environment and left there and anything I’m not sure if I will actually like using (like hex bit sockets, bits, etc.) are cheapies for me. Everything out of those criteria are going to be quality buys.

 

[CHI_Tool&Die]

Who really cares about tool resale values?

I buy tools to get a job done, not barter, trade, or sell.

When I’m gone, the difference in value isn’t going to change my widow’s standard of living one iota when she sells, donates to charity, or otherwise gives them away

Dude, what’s crazier is that the resale value even on Snap-on stuff is still crappy compared to what you pay for it unless you score it far beyond truck/MSRP to begin with. I never understood the whole resale value thing in regards to tools.

 

[428PI]

I never did buy a tool to compress pistons except a large C clamp in the 40 years I was a mechanic. Only thing it won't do is rear brakes that have emergency brake built in. For that I used what the shop owned. Most of the stuff I wanted from Snap On wasn't built by them and could be had by the original manufacturer for less. BTW: Cmax where I worked the last 6 years had an air powered piston compressor that kept pressure on the piston as one was turning it in. Worked slick. I usually didn't have to work on brakes so used it perhaps 3-4 times during my time there.

 

[Firebrick43]

I always get a kick out of someone talking about higher resale value on tools, guns, or cars/trucks as a justification to buy the higher priced or higher optioned one.

If you spend 50 dollars on one tool and 100 on the other initially, and when you sell them they devalue by 50 percent. Then yes the expensive tool has more resale value (25 dollars vs 50 dollars) However the 50 dollar tool you spent 25 total dollars on and the expensive one 50 total dollars on.

You still lost more money (and most times always will) with the more expensive option. That doesn't mean there isn't times that you should spend more money on one option, its just that typically (except in rare circumstances) resale value shouldn't be part of the equation.

 

[AEAdam]

Typically, the less expensive tools are usually “good enough” when they’re “mid range”, by which I mean a notch above the “Made in China” stuff, (which sometimes works, but so often just doesn’t) but are not Snap On level.

While I have some Snap On tools (and respect them enormously) the majority of my tools fall somewhere in that “mid range” category.

Maybe it’s because I’m in a different country to the majority of the readership here, but I sometimes get a bit boggled when I read that folks can’t decide between buying Snap On or Harbor Freight.

That’s a bit like going out for dinner and saying you can’t decide between Wagyu beef at a Michelin star restaurant, or a cheap burger from a truck somewhere - there is a world in between!

In some cases though, it comes down to folks just not knowing. That’s where forums like this can help.

My opinion Dave. Maybe GJ excluded, I suspect there are a lot of folks (my kids for example) who think everything they buy comes from the same factory in China and that the expensive things are just status symbols for suckers. That could be one reason why people go to forums to see if what they suspect is actually true. Also explains why folks with money would choose value brands. They perceive no added value in expensive.

For example: Is a Porsche Macan really just an expensive Audi Q5? Who needs the marginal extra horsepower?

One thing I wanted to mention to you personally- working on cars is a popular past time in the US, more so than in the UK. It’s even more attractive by our nearly double labor rates compared to the UK.

I also find our auto repair places (including dealerships) borderline predatory. Lived in Dorset for 5 years.

 

[AEAdam]

I always get a kick out of someone talking about higher resale value on tools, guns, or cars/trucks as a justification to buy the higher priced or higher optioned one.

If you spend 50 dollars on one tool and 100 on the other initially, and when you sell them they devalue by 50 percent. Then yes the expensive tool has more resale value (25 dollars vs 50 dollars) However the 50 dollar tool you spent 25 total dollars on and the expensive one 50 total dollars on.

You still lost more money (and most times always will) with the more expensive option. That doesn't mean there isn't times that you should spend more money on one option, its just that typically (except in rare circumstances) resale value shouldn't be part of the equation.

Agree in theory but I think your numbers are wrong. Good luck getting anything for used HF tools. I see the ads on Craigslist for lightly used engine hoists. Guys think they can buy it, use it once and sell it for what they paid for it. Good luck with that.

Some of my fancy tools are now much more expensive retail and may well be worth more than I paid for them. Some of my other stuff really hasn’tq depreciated at all, maybe due to inflation.

That said, I don’t think that’s a good reason to choose a given tool brand.

Let me just say it again; golfers don’t justify their ridiculous expenses for their hobby. My hobbies all make/save my family money. You guys should be buying whatever you want.

Did a wheel bearing job on a VW. Local dealer wanted $1200. With pads and rotors, $1800+tax. That was $350 of parts including pads and rotors. I can justify any tool I want for the money I saved that morning. I do jobs like that frequently.

 

[Firebrick43]

Agree in theory but I think your numbers are wrong. Good luck getting anything for used HF tools. I see the ads on Craigslist for lightly used engine hoists. Guys think they can buy it, use it once and sell it for what they paid for it. Good luck with that.

Some of my fancy tools are now much more expensive retail and may well be worth more than I paid for them. Some of my other stuff really hasn’tq depreciated at all, maybe due to inflation.

That said, I don’t think that’s a good reason to choose a given tool brand.

Let me just say it again; golfers don’t justify their ridiculous expenses for their hobby. My hobbies all make/save my family money. You guys should be buying whatever you want.

Did a wheel bearing job on a VW. Local dealer wanted $1200. With pads and rotors, $1800+tax. That was $350 of parts including pads and rotors. I can justify any tool I want for the money I saved that morning. I do jobs like that frequently.

I have bought 3 snap on tools NEW in my life, actually two and one blue point. I however have close to 50k in snap on tools if I were to replace them with new. Never paid more than 25% of retail, many time less than that. And I didn't buy abused worn out tools. They didn't have to be flawless but they typically had the very fine scratches that would polish out if you wanted to.

 

[AEAdam]

Specialized tools like brake pad compressors are not made by snap on. Every one should know that by now? Like every other tool manuafacture, they fill their line out with tools made by other companies.

I don't know what you’re trying to stir, but if you’re going to compare tools it better be something that snap on actually makes like wrenches, ratchets, or sockets.

Caliper tool was just an example. Appreciate your thoughts tho.

 

[vavet]

If I’m using A #2 Phillips screwdriver 8 hours every day, I might spent $50 on a nice one. In theory, it‘s going to work better, feel better, and last longer. If I néed a screwdriver to go in my kitchen junk drawer, then I’m unwilling to spend more than $5. It’s going to work just fine for my needs.

the handyman I hired a few weeks ago to do some work on my rental house had a bunch of harbor freight tools. His primary business is flooring installation. I’m guessing his tools for that are higher level.

 

[DAustin]

I always take inexpensive tools with me in my junkyard tool bag. Just because they're not Snap-On doesn't mean they won't do the job. Most of the time it's Snap-on or German brands, but I would hate to lose any of them at the junkyard.

 

[AEAdam]

I have bought 3 snap on tools NEW in my life, actually two and one blue point. I however have close to 50k in snap on tools if I were to replace them with new. Never paid more than 25% of retail, many time less than that. And I didn't buy abused worn out tools. They didn't have to be flawless but they typically had the very fine scratches that would polish out if you wanted to.

50% off is fairly easy as Snap On frequently offers buy one get one on popular sets. 75% off earns you a deserved “you ****”.

I’ve rarely been that lucky, but some tools….

I bought this set of wrenches on eBay for $100. I think it was missing the 13mm (easily sourced). They were dirty, rusty crusty but undamaged. I dunked them in oxpho blue. A little oil and my crayon trick and I think I could find a buyer for these (not offering). They are fairly rare FD+.

Not sure what this set would cost new. My guess is a lot.

 

[LOW1]

Is there really any useful difference between a Menards screwdriver and a Snapon screwdriver? Other than bragging rights?

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Inexpensive is ok for most things. Like I see people buying Snap-on sockets all the time I’m like why would you waste that amount of money on sockets? Impact sockets maybe but chrome sockets no. Even impact sockets from them are a waste IMO as a professional mechanic. Two things Snap-on absolutely is best for is ratchets and wrenches. Those two things from them can’t be beat by anybody yeah they are pricey but worth it. I was able to get my wrench set 10-19 and 20-24 for less than what the 10-19 set costs alone because they were on sale. Same with pliers cheap ones **** best to buy top of the line like Snap-on and Knipex. Screwdrivers I don’t cheap out on those either but they don’t have to be Snap-on either I bought Snap-on for the color and quality though. Color is a big factor for me if it’s a high priced tool and I’m paying for it I want the color I like. So yes inexpensive tools have their place and quality tools do too.

 

[finn]

Agree in theory but I think your numbers are wrong. Good luck getting anything for used HF tools. I see the ads on Craigslist for lightly used engine hoists. Guys think they can buy it, use it once and sell it for what they paid for it. Good luck with that.

Some of my fancy tools are now much more expensive retail and may well be worth more than I paid for them. Some of my other stuff really hasn’tq depreciated at all, maybe due to inflation.

That said, I don’t think that’s a good reason to choose a given tool brand.

Let me just say it again; golfers don’t justify their ridiculous expenses for their hobby. My hobbies all make/save my family money. You guys should be buying whatever you want.

Did a wheel bearing job on a VW. Local dealer wanted $1200. With pads and rotors, $1800+tax. That was $350 of parts including pads and rotors. I can justify any tool I want for the money I saved that morning. I do jobs like that frequently.

Pretty much how I look at it. Tools sometimes, but not always save me money by doing it myself. The main part of that, though, is that there are some jobs I enjoy doing, and learn by doing.

Some jobs I no longer enjoy though. Changing oil is ont that I have begun farming out.

Again, if you like fancy tools, by all means go for it. Don’t BS yourself with the resale line, though. If the HF tools did the job, you probably paid for them in what you saved by doing it yourself, and you may even be able to throw them out and still come out ahead. That way you wouldn’t have to deal with scumbags trying to chisel another $2.00, or hassle with finding a buyer.

 

[AEAdam]

Is there really any useful difference between a Menards screwdriver and a Snapon screwdriver? Other than bragging rights?

Typically yes. A little history: screwdrivers, previously called “turn screws” typically had turned wooden handles. Often the blank would not be full diameter so there were flats.

Stanley made and patented the “everlasting” screwdriver that was oval in cross section and had a full tang for strength.

When I was young, plastic handles were popular and tho rubber sleeved (Klein) or ridged (craftsman ideal), they were all still round.

Not sure when the first non round or oval handles came from, but Snap on has really revolutionized basic non-round handles. When everyone started copying their square handles, they patented a new tri angular handle (instinct) which is a complex shape and amazing to use.

Europeans, lacking Snap Ons size, product development teams and marketing have largely stuck to (and improved upon) round handled screwdrivers. The Wiha screwdrivers are nearly identical to wooden handles made more than a century ago.

At the business end, straight ends are built to the applicable stds if the manufacturers are privy to them. US spec slots are different from EU (US are wider slots), manufacturers lacking access or knowledge of the specs copy whatever they get their hands on which can be a frustrating mixed bag.

Snap On has patented or bought out companies innovating cruciform ends, decreasing cam out. They’ve also offered ACR (TM) ends which improve Phillips and pozi compatibility (allowing you to have fewer screwdrivers).

None of this matters until it matters. Then I question the value of a good tool in that moment. Once you buggered the screw head, how much did you save buying a $3 screwdriver (or worse a $1 Chinese screwdriver you paid $10 for) versus the worlds best screwdriver that costs $25 and will last your lifetime.

It’s a great point you raise and right on topic. Yes, there’s a difference. That’s fact. But how much does it matter? When does it matter? I think some tools truly don’t matter. Others are truly disposable. But I’m personally struggling to find examples. Plastic pry bars? I have the cheapest available. Is it the type of tool, like a pry bar, scraper, hammer? My carpenters hammer is titanium, costs a fortune, and is absolutely magnificent. (I think I’m in love with tools)

 

[AEAdam]

Inexpensive is ok for most things. Like I see people buying Snap-on sockets all the time I’m like why would you waste that amount of money on sockets? Impact sockets maybe but chrome sockets no. Even impact sockets from them are a waste IMO as a professional mechanic. Two things Snap-on absolutely is best for is ratchets and wrenches. Those two things from them can’t be beat by anybody yeah they are pricey but worth it. I was able to get my wrench set 10-19 and 20-24 for less than what the 10-19 set costs alone because they were on sale. Same with pliers cheap ones **** best to buy top of the line like Snap-on and Knipex. Screwdrivers I don’t cheap out on those either but they don’t have to be Snap-on either I bought Snap-on for the color and quality though. Color is a big factor for me if it’s a high priced tool and I’m paying for it I want the color I like. So yes inexpensive tools have their place and quality tools do too.

You’re killing me Blake. I was really with you. Snap on is overpriced and unnecessary. Except their ratchets, wrenches impact sockets, screwdrivers and pliers.

That’s exactly where I am. Haven’t used Icon sockets yet, but did you know the snappy shallows are super strong, super shallow, and super thin? Never really discussed in the reviews. They really are great sockets, probably the best in the business and you only need those attributes once for their ridiculous price to be worth it.

BTW, said it before, just a reminder. As a product designer, my company designs products around ours and our customers tools. We absolutely have stuff where Snap On is pretty much essential. And we’re not unique.

I’m not a Snap On fan per se. I know their products because my job requires it.

Appreciate all the interesting responses, guys.

 

[KnurledNut]

But truck branded tools do typically hold a higher resale value.

Who really cares about tool resale values?

I buy tools to get a job done, not barter, trade, or sell.

When I’m gone, the difference in value isn’t going to change my widow’s standard of living one iota when she sells, donates to charity, or otherwise gives them away

My statement is still a fact.
Your personal choices dont change that.

 

[AEAdam]

My statement is still a fact.
Your personal choices dont change that.

Agree. Respect to all. Good thoughts expressed.

Currently shopping for a skid steer. I have this same problem. Buy a cheap one and have it depreciate to nothing, or an expensive one that will hold its value. Not at all clear to me which is “less expensive”. Just know I can’t afford “COVID chip shortage inflated prices”

 

[Dave455]

My opinion Dave. Maybe GJ excluded, I suspect there are a lot of folks (my kids for example) who think everything they buy comes from the same factory in China and that the expensive things are just status symbols for suckers. That could be one reason why people go to forums to see if what they suspect is actually true. Also explains why folks with money would choose value brands. They perceive no added value in expensive.

For example: Is a Porsche Macan really just an expensive Audi Q5? Who needs the marginal extra horsepower?

One thing I wanted to mention to you personally- working on cars is a popular past time in the US, more so than in the UK. It’s even more attractive by our nearly double labor rates compared to the UK.

I also find our auto repair places (including dealerships) borderline predatory. Lived in Dorset for 5 years.

Yes, I think that is true to an extent. I think that comes from not knowing the difference between “designer” goods (that have a fancy name on generic toot) from genuine quality.

Thankfully, if you use tools for any amount of time you soon realise the difference. A friends son was of that school of thought, but when he started working with his dad and found that Chinese drills didn’t drill properly, taps didn’t tap, and files barely filed, he started to understand!

Working on cars is a popular pastime here too. Partly because dealer rates have gone up, and partly because the classic sector is so busy.

There are some things that just don’t really happen here, compared to the U.S. (Custom cars would be an example) but in other areas (Classics) I would say the U.K. is more active.

It depends what part of the country you are in of course. I’m in a rural area, so there’s always lots of tractor / Land Rover / Steam engine work, but a lot of classic stuff too. I can get pretty much any component for any motor vehicle overhauled within about a 20 mile radius!

 

[sparky 1971]

There is a difference between inexpensive tools and cheap tools.

As far as resale value is concerned, I'm not one to care. I've never bought a tool so that I can sell it later, and have never thought of a tool as an investment.

 

[Steve_P]

But truck branded tools do typically hold a higher resale value.

As does a Porsche, or Mercedes, when compared to a Camry- because it costs so much more initially. But who lost more money, in dollars, on the used sale in 5 years? The Porsche, MB, or Snap On buyer. If you buy a $100 set of Icon, or whatever brand, wrenches maybe you can sell it for $20 in a few years. Or maybe you give it away and "lose" $100. If you spend $300 on a set of tool truck wrenches at retail, or close to it, you've most likely lost $100 before you even open the package. This isn't saying that some tool truck stuff isn't worth the $, but IMO very little is today, and justifying it by saying "higher resale value" is missing the big picture of the total amount of $ lost in the sale. yes, a set of Tekton sockets will never have many buyers if you're trying to sell them. So what, you paid $40 for it and not $300.

 

[dchawk81]

I have a lot of Snap On tools. But reading GJ, and respecting your views, I sometimes ask myself if I really need expensive tools for everything.

Did a brake job yesterday and bought a Lisle caliper compressor. Lisle make decent speciality tools of the sort you don't want to buy from Snap On. This tool was maybe $10. Snap On's ratcheting caliper compressor is $70 I think.



This is a very simple tool. A flat threaded plate and a molded knob. But it had a sharp edge all around it. (whatever, what do you expect for $10). That edge was so sharp, it tore my glove. Annoying. So, stopped what I was doing, filed the edges, new gloves, then continue with the job.



That's the thing with some tools. Cheap looks good on paper. Cheap sounds good on GJ. But it can be the little things, the littlest of things, that make a difference.

BTW, I used to use a little woodworking F clamp for this. Not sure this tool is an improvement on that.

So, where do you draw the line? What details have you experienced that would help GJ members?

I'd grind the handle off and weld a nut on the end so I could use a wrench.

 

[Steve_P]

To answer the question, I would say that for the "good" brands like Tekton, Gearwrench, Sunex.... the answer is almost always yes, they're good enough. It's very difficult to buy something like a crappy socket, or extension, these days. The 90T Gearwrench and Tekton ratches are excellent. Screwdrivers and pliers are definitely worth spending more $ on Wiha and Knipex IMO. OTC makes good pullers that aren't cheap, but aren't tool truck pricing either.

 

[RedneckWelder]

But truck branded tools do typically hold a higher resale value.

While your statement is technically correct the usually ludicrous original purchase price makes a higher resale value kind of pointless when that resale value is still pennies on the dollar.

If you are going to buy tool truck tools as an “investment” then that “investment” needs to be made on the work accomplished with them side vs the resale value.

 

[Kuma601]

There are those that apply the go all in attitude and I commend them for being able to put the resources into that level of tool. For some having it when the need arises brings peace of mind. For items that see regular use having that quality and convenience available is good. For others if the tool is not used there are resources in that are under utilized or was not necessary at the onset. Weighing the cost to benefit can only be determined by that person.

I had a shop owner comment to me that a DLC US made coating machine was constantly breaking down. Due to the down time the shop bought 2 DLC machines made in China. Those run full shifts and have been reliable. Both cost 1/2 of what that USA one was so the costroductivity resulted in a superior result.

All depends.

 

[dchawk81]

Agree in theory but I think your numbers are wrong. Good luck getting anything for used HF tools. I see the ads on Craigslist for lightly used engine hoists. Guys think they can buy it, use it once and sell it for what they paid for it. Good luck with that.

Some of my fancy tools are now much more expensive retail and may well be worth more than I paid for them. Some of my other stuff really hasn’tq depreciated at all, maybe due to inflation.

That said, I don’t think that’s a good reason to choose a given tool brand.

Let me just say it again; golfers don’t justify their ridiculous expenses for their hobby. My hobbies all make/save my family money. You guys should be buying whatever you want.

Did a wheel bearing job on a VW. Local dealer wanted $1200. With pads and rotors, $1800+tax. That was $350 of parts including pads and rotors. I can justify any tool I want for the money I saved that morning. I do jobs like that frequently.

So why'd you get the crappy Lisle?

 

[regguy1]

But truck branded tools do typically hold a higher resale value.

I had a 15MM 1/2" drive impact flex socket replaced by my Snap On guy, the new ones don't have a band around the pin they're just welded and look cheap compared to previous ones. I sold my 1/2" drive set on eBay and bought a set of Sunex. The Sunex sockets look great and have the safety band like older SO's did and they were reasonably priced.