When installing wire nuts pre-twist or no?

[rmsg0040]

Stranded - yes
Solid - no

If I can, I wrap it in electrical tape afterwards

 

[n8n]

Make sure you run a ground tail up to the green screw on your switches, your screws would not be grounded and your metal plate if you use them.

Been doing electrical work for 20+ years and I prefer to twist my wire with my side cutters before installing the wire nuts.

This.

Also, you'll want to break the plaster ears off your switches with that type of box.

Glad to see you're fixing it right. I'd spend the extra money for "spec grade" devices, then you'll NEVER have to touch them again.

 

[signcrafter]

That's technically against code (though I've never heard of it being enforced), as the fixture is UL rated to be installed with the SUPPLIED accessories (subtle point).

Regardless, yes, I've found that some are better than others. The little orange ones that come with most fixtures I've installed lately are ok, but only for smaller wires (and they work well with the stranded wires that come with the fixtures; an important point), but only the ones that have a metal spring inside. The tiny ones that are all plastic are ****.

Can you provide a link in the code book that says using a wire nut other then the one that came with the fixture is against code? I don't know my codes inside and out but I have never heard of that. Especially if you are using a UL listed wire nut that is better then the cheap **** that comes with most lighting fixtures.

 

[n8n]

Can you provide a link in the code book that says using a wire nut other then the one that came with the fixture is against code? I don't know my codes inside and out but I have never heard of that. Especially if you are using a UL listed wire nut that is better then the cheap **** that comes with most lighting fixtures.

And sometimes you need to use a yellow one, e.g. if there are fixture boxes daisy chained.

 

[rlitman]

Can you provide a link in the code book that says using a wire nut other then the one that came with the fixture is against code? I don't know my codes inside and out but I have never heard of that. Especially if you are using a UL listed wire nut that is better then the cheap **** that comes with most lighting fixtures.

It is not in the code per-se. The issue is that code stipulates that you must follows the manufacturer's instructions to the letter, and the fixture's UL rating only comes when installed per instructions, which includes installing the included wire nuts. When it comes to substituting wire nuts, this issue is often glossed over (although there are times that either voltage or temperature ratings can actually make this a big problem). With newer fixtures that come with other types of connectors (such as hi-hats with built-in push-in connectors, or fluorescent fixtures with disconnects), this is less of a grey area.

 

[Eriehunter]

Those certainly would make a solid and secure connection. You might go broke using them at .89 cents each..

Those seem to be pretty nice and I haven't run into that style connector in years, at that price I think I would use them for motor connections inside the peckerhead where vibration could be an issue in smaller motors where split bolts may not be practical.

 

[signcrafter]

It is not in the code per-se. The issue is that code stipulates that you must follows the manufacturer's instructions to the letter, and the fixture's UL rating only comes when installed per instructions, which includes installing the included wire nuts. When it comes to substituting wire nuts, this issue is often glossed over (although there are times that either voltage or temperature ratings can actually make this a big problem). With newer fixtures that come with other types of connectors (such as hi-hats with built-in push-in connectors, or fluorescent fixtures with disconnects), this is less of a grey area.

I'd still want to see in the code book where it says using a different UL listed wire nut voids the fixture's UL listing, since you say the fixture's UL rating only comes when used with included wire nuts.

So if I drop a wire nut while installing a fixture and can't find it, then technically I can't install that fixture with a different UL listed wire nut? How does an inspector tell if the wire nut I used was supplied with the fixture? I would think that would be impossible.

 

[dslabuda]

I'd still want to see in the code book where it says using a different UL listed wire nut voids the fixture's UL listing, since you say the fixture's UL rating only comes when used with included wire nuts.

So if I drop a wire nut while installing a fixture and can't find it, then technically I can't install that fixture with a different UL listed wire nut? How does an inspector tell if the wire nut I used was supplied with the fixture? I would think that would be impossible.

I think that was his intent: while it may be to the letter of the rule, it is never enforced for similar reasons.

You'd probably need to have a serious Barney Fife inspector there right after his prostate exam to have that enforced.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk 4

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Those certainly would make a solid and secure connection. You might go broke using them at .89 cents each..

$1.13 each for the ones that will handle 12 and 10 gauge wire. The ones he shows are only good up to 14 gauge.

I like them but I could not afford them either.

Charles

 

[alfredeneuman]

The issue is that code stipulates that you must follows the manufacturer's instructions to the letter, and the fixture's UL rating only comes when installed per instructions, which includes installing the included wire nuts.

I've got the instructions for Hampton Bay (cheap Chinese from the HD) ceiling fixture.
It comes with screws, a mounting strap, and wire nuts. The instructions say nothing about being required to use the supplied screws and strap. In fact there are holes in the fixture for direct mounting to a box.
The wire nuts are addressed though. The instructions just say to "Use approved wire connectors".

I'd imagine other installation instructions are similar

 

[AndeiH]

I always twist wires before putting on a wirenut, solid or stranded. Never had a problem in 15 years in residential, commercial or industrial settings. Heck, I'll give the wirenut a couple of turns with the sidecutters to make sure things are tight. I've come across many loose connections where the wires weren't twisted together, not worth taking the chance.

 

[marty_p]

I just shove in the ends, try to make the copper even and twist, works the best. Less chance of the nut slipping off, better usage of the wire nuts.

Ditto here as well!

 

[CoopVA]

I always twist wires before putting on a wirenut, solid or stranded. Never had a problem in 15 years in residential, commercial or industrial settings. Heck, I'll give the wirenut a couple of turns with the sidecutters to make sure things are tight. I've come across many loose connections where the wires weren't twisted together, not worth taking the chance.

^ This