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When there is too MUCH grease...

Cruzan80

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So I picked up an old Craftsman 3/8" drill (the saw handled aluminum body version) a bit ago, and plugged it in to use it. Saw a bit of sparking and the trigger was a bit finicky, so I figured I would check the brushes and make sure they were in decent condition. Pulled one out, was solid black. Wiped a finger across the curve, and got grease on my finger...

So I pulled off the front to see what was going on.

:scared::scared::scared::scared::scared::scared: :scared::scared::scared::scared::scared:

The entire nosecone area was full of grease, for who knows how long. The one clean area you see is where I stuck my finger in to pull a bit out. Sorry for the number of pics, had to keep angling it to get the light to show each side. Last one is where the brushes contact, and wiped off the one section with a towel lightly.

So how do I get enough of this out to make it run correctly (besides scooping out most of the excess), and what out of all of this still needs a bit of grease when cleaned to run correctly?

Anyone seen one this bad before?
 

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tym

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That is impressive! Perhaps you can soak all the non-plastic parts in a bucket of carb cleaner for a day or two?
 
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Cruzan80

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I don't think there is any plastic on the entire machine, so I should be safe. This was a late 50's era drill. I also discovered the gear closest to the opening is removable, so that should allow me to get a bit more out before soaking.
 

tym

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That helps! Were you planning to soak the rotor from the motor? I'd be concerned that any cleaner might attack the insulation of the windings and commutator.
 

pendragon1998

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Maybe just sit it upside down on a tray in the hot sun for a day or two. See if the grease will warm up and flow out?
 

JZiggy

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I dunno, looks like an appropriate amount of grease to me. Any time I've regreased a drills gearbox its like that.

Old grease separates and the oil runs everywhere. That's why the electronics got oily.

I soak it all in mineral spirits and brush the old grease out. Then repack with basic bearing grease.
 
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Cruzan80

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I was thinking too much due to the amount not directly in contact with any gear. Grease the gears, but the pics have almost 30% removed from when I opened it up. Will try soaking it to start with.
 
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Outlawmws

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You want it to have a good amount but not packed tight. There needs to be air in there or the gears turn to a hydraulic pump and you get issues. (and more leakage).

Definitely get that factory so-called grease out, it dries out faster than you would think and is then is useless (I'm pretty sure its all paraffin based anyway...). I use synthetic Mobil 1 grease almost exclusively these days (a few years ago I gave a way an entire case of old grease tubes as I never use it anymore), and like the results.
 
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Cruzan80

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This one was $10, another pistol grip with a rusted locked chuck was $1, and the 1/4" with accessories and case was $25. All 315 prefix late 50s to early 60s.
 

bill300d

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The grease in the gear assembly looks about right but I would clean it out and put some fresh stuff in there. I would be willing to bet that the contamination on the commutator and brushes are from someone over oiling the bushing at the commutator end.
 
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