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When to install porcelain tile?

Paul1956

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My new garage will have a post-tension concrete slab.

How soon after the pour can porcelain tiles be installed?

I am in no rush. Would it be wise to wait a year allowing
the concrete to settle in?

I like the tiles (Race Deck, Swisstrax, etc) but feel that
the porcelain will add more long term value to the home.
 
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Angelfire

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I'd leave it for a few months if you can. After 30 days my slab didn't have any cracks. 3-4 months later, it did. Nothing major but no need to rush it if you aren't in a hurry.
 

Dugan

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You shouldn't have cracks at all, except along the expansion joints.

Jim :cool:

+1 you better call that contractor back.. I can guarantee anyone that concrete will always do one thing... crack, but this is directed to certain areas to prevent problems.
 

BRIANBB

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I wonder why when you move into a new home the tiles are all nicely installed and finished. Get out there and tile away. Of course it is one of the last operations so it is usually at least a month or two after the pour that the floors go in.
 

JimVonBaden

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I wonder why when you move into a new home the tiles are all nicely installed and finished. Get out there and tile away. Of course it is one of the last operations so it is usually at least a month or two after the pour that the floors go in.

This! I tiled my floor less than a month after it was poured. Not an issue for me.

Jim :cool:
 

cderalow

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FYI, you should follow TCNA guidelines for moisture content of the slab prior to tiling and ensure the mastic works within the range of your slab's moisture content. If you're worried about cracking of the slab showing through into the grout of the tile, install a crack suppression membrane prior to installing any tile.
 

davidlee

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The only problem I see on waiting is most any garage/shop tends to "collect" a lot of stuff which you would have to move out or around to do the tile job.
 

slickgt1

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Tile is not like epoxy, I don't really see why you can't start installing in a few weeks. Moisture content, its concrete, and you aren't going to get bubbles with tile.
 

Angelfire

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You shouldn't have cracks at all, except along the expansion joints.

Jim :cool:

Yup. He cut the lines down the middle (at 16 ft) after I asked for 12 ft intervals. Two thin cracks on either side if the cut centered so 12ft probably would have prevented it. They aren't moving and I will tile over them so I'm not too bothered. Contractor knows I wasn't happy as I withheld final payment!
 

Dakota00

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I wouldn't tile a garage floor unless the concrete is at least 12 months old where it went through a freeze/thaw cycle. Warmer climate areas I would wait at least 6 months.
 

slickgt1

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He in Texas i figured it must be hot as piss there.
 
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Angelfire

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Hardly. We see freezing temps pretty regularly during the winter and occasionally top 100 in the ABQ area but usually it's in the 90's during the summer.

Up north, the extremes are even greater with temps dipping to -50 during the winters.....
 
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Paul1956

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Hey folks... thank you for all the responses!

No freeze / thaw cycle here in San Antonio Texas.

Ok so I have done some reading...

-porcelain tile with rectified edge and "through body"
-dark epoxy grout 1/8"
-crack isolation membrane underneath

Given this will be new concrete will I need to grind?
What about a bevel edge at the entry?
 

jmack

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I asked about the transition edge at the entry in this thread. Jack made a good suggestion of using concrete patch to shape a small wedge that will transition from the driveway to the level of the tile on the garage slab.
 

slickgt1

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Hey folks... thank you for all the responses!

No freeze / thaw cycle here in San Antonio Texas.

Ok so I have done some reading...

-porcelain tile with rectified edge and "through body"
-dark epoxy grout 1/8"
-crack isolation membrane underneath

Given this will be new concrete will I need to grind?
What about a bevel edge at the entry?

Rectified tile will cost you a lot more. You also don't really need it. I didn't bother with it personally. My cap was at $1 a sq-ft. I do suggest you look for PEI 4 or 5 tile. That is important.

Crack isolation membrane, not sure about this one. Maybe if you wait a year as Dakota suggested, you might see a crack. Either way, get the liquid isolation membrane like Dokata used in his garage tile thread.

Epoxy grout. I suggest you think about this one. I first did it in my garage, because I was afraid of it. It was a learning curve and a half. Now, I won't even bother with the regular grout. Make sure you read the instructions carefully.

Get the Schluter SS transition edge.
 
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Paul1956

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I have to admit...

One fear with porcelain tile install is something happening to the
slab after the install that affects the appearance and install of the
tiles... and then it being a big deal to sort out.

I have not read about any disasters here regarding a porcelain install
which interesting compared to some epoxy issues. Perhaps that may
be due to the lower number of porcelain installs. <shrug> In any case,
I don't want to open up an epoxy vs tile war. :)

The other fear is voiding the 10-year home warranty with a non-builder
installed tile floor in the garage. I'll need to read up on the terms of the
warranty and sort that one out myself.

Ugh, I'm struggling as it seems others have. Started with the interlocking
removable tile solution... then moved to the porcelain... now thinking about
wood having viewed that thread and liking wood.

Eventually, I'll sort it all out. LOL
 

JimVonBaden

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I have to admit...

One fear with porcelain tile install is something happening to the
slab after the install that affects the appearance and install of the
tiles... and then it being a big deal to sort out.

I have not read about any disasters here regarding a porcelain install
which interesting compared to some epoxy issues. Perhaps that may
be due to the lower number of porcelain installs. <shrug> In any case,
I don't want to open up an epoxy vs tile war. :)

The other fear is voiding the 10-year home warranty with a non-builder
installed tile floor in the garage. I'll need to read up on the terms of the
warranty and sort that one out myself.

Ugh, I'm struggling as it seems others have. Started with the interlocking
removable tile solution... then moved to the porcelain... now thinking about
wood having viewed that thread and liking wood.

Eventually, I'll sort it all out. LOL

You will not void a home warranty installing tile in your garage.

As for cracking, not likely.

Your call.

Jim :cool:
 

slickgt1

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And if a tile cracks, what you think you need to tear out the floor. No you take a damn hammer and chisel, remove said tile, and set new one in. Not like you need to buy an epoxy kit or something, and blend and sand and mix.

That is, if you do manage to break a tile. I for one use my garage for everything. From making furniture, to fixing my cars. Even throw the occasional hammer, sometimes on purpose. Between all the stains, finishes, poly, shellac, paint thinner, mineral spirits, trans oil, motor oil, construction adhesives, brake fluid, you name it, it has been on my floor.

The painted concrete that I used to have, looked like **** in 1 year of working in the garage. The tile is nearly 3, and looks like the day I finished.
 
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Paul1956

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San Antonio, TX
Thanks for the comments guys.

Those of you with porcelain and parking a daily driver in the
garage do you find the tiles get marked with the stones and
debris brought in from the tires?
 
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Paul1956

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San Antonio, TX
...on a side, but related note, permits came through and a
pre-construction meeting next Tuesday morning.

Should soon have a garage... oh yes and the attached house. :lol:
 

slickgt1

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Thanks for the comments guys.

Those of you with porcelain and parking a daily driver in the
garage do you find the tiles get marked with the stones and
debris brought in from the tires?

No. lol.
 
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