Where can I buy replacement siding?

[brett3xx]

I need to replace some of the siding on my garage due to it rotting, But Im not sure where I can purchase it. I only want to replace the lower 2 rows of siding. Can someone tell me where I can buy this type? Ive went to the homedepot, but they didnt carry anything like this. Thanks, Brett

 

[NUTTSGT]

That's some older stuff from the mid to late eighties. It's a preprimed board similar to particle board or MDF. If I remember correctly, it's hard to drive a nail through it.

I can tell you what it is but I'm not sure where you can find it. Sorry.

 

[pattenp]

I had to replace some of that type of siding on a garage not too long ago. I found it at a building supply yard in my area. The big box stores such as Home Depot and Lowes do not carry it. Its masonite or hardboard siding.

 

[JoeMopar]

Looks like masonite siding. You can check with your local lumber yard. You could also possibly use a different product that would appear the same for the bottom 2 courses.

 

[pattenp]

The issue you're going to have finding something else to match is the the masonite siding you have has a 10" reveal and most siding today such as hardie plank has a 6" reveal.

 

[cowboy73]

Hey brett, I found this. Maybe you could try this repair. Probably be better than the masonite, too.

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/.../hardboard/panel/replace_hardboard_siding.htm

 

[southernfriedcj]

Get a 4x8 sheet of Hardi siding (or Chem Plank, ect).
Rip it to the desired width.
Prime & paint.
Install and properly caulk.
Your troubles are over.

 

[rcayot]

+1 good call on the hardie sheet

 

[theamcguy]

Replace with either PVC or Cement board siding. If you use the masonite stuff it will rot again.

 

[Stuart in MN]

A big part of the problem is that bottom row of siding is too close to the groud, it will soak up moisture. Using pieces of Hardiboard may be a good idea since it's rotproof, but is the original Masonite siding tapered from top to bottom?

 

[danski0224]

I don't think that stuff is available anymore.

You will probably have to do as others have suggested and use something like Hardie board ripped to size.

Cement siding shears will not work well for long rips. A carbide tipped sawblade for cement siding will do the job for a few cuts, but the diamond tipped ones are much better.

You can go to the James Hardie website and look at the instructions for their plank siding products and adapt to what you need. A starter strip under the first course of siding will provide the proper angle.

I would strongly suggest predrilling nail holes if you do not own a pneumatic siding nailer. A carbide tipped bit for drilling glass works well. Stainless fasteners are recommended.

Hardie board is not "waterproof".

Your siding is too close to the ground, and it will wick moisture.

You need to remove some dirt from the areas near the siding.

 

[krooser]

Try a local lumber dealer who knows his stuff... 18 year old kids at the box stores don't....

 

[6768rogues]

If you only need to replace a few pieces, buy some mdo (medium density overlay) plywood in 1/2 inch thickness and cut it down to size. You could leave mdo on the ground for 5 years and it would be good enough to use. It will be the last time you will replace those panels.

 

[MrMark]

LP is your best bet. I think they still sell the hardboard siding. Search the LP website under siding.

 

[MScott]

It appears that the rear of the garage is not too visible. If so, and you find that you simply cannot find anything that matches exactly, you might consider taking the siding off the back wall of the garage to use for repairs. Then recover the rear with something that is close to the same appearance but would be obvious if used on the front or sides.

 

[tcianci]

You would do well to find a fiber cement replacement product for that hardboard siding, Once painted it will look the same. You may even want to consider removing the sheathing , maybe a foot or so up the wall, re sheath with Durock or Wonderboard. It will have the look of poured concrete and you can run it down below grade too. Then start your siding up a ways, to keep it well off the ground. If you damage is limited to the first course of siding, you can remove this course and the one above it, remove the sheathing to a point mid way up the 2nd course, install the cement panel and re-install your 2nd course (it is now going to be the 1st course). The repair will look like concrete and your siding is well out of the dirt. Even if you install a fiber cement product, having it that close to the ground will cause it to deteriorate, the paint will be the first thing to go and then the material itself will break down.

 

[Kevin54]

There was a huge lawsuit against the company that had masonite siding a few years back. I didn't think masonite was still on the market for siding. I was thinking they had to discontinue its use due to the fact that everyone that had it it rotted out and a lot of places even showed toadstools, mushrooms, fungi, growing on the boards.

I did a quick search for "Masonite siding lawsuit" and came up with:

http://www.claimsourceone.com/masonite-siding-lawsuit.asp

 

[cowboyjosh]

There were huge lawsuits against pretty much all manufacturers of the wood composition siding products of the 80's and 90's. 2 of my homes in Colorado were sided with wood composition, hell 95% of the 20,000+ tract homes in Highlands Ranch, Colorado are sided with defective siding. My first house that I bought second hand that was built in 1991 was awful, in the time I lived there I replaced allot of wood trim around the window (the windows sucked too) because the siding and trim wasn't installed or caulked very well by the builder or maintained (like painted and caulked every few years) by the first owner. I sold the house, thank God the inspector for the buyer didn't mention anything although you can still drive by the house and see from the street the edge swelling and the de-lamination; but most of the homes in the neighborhood are now that way too. My second house with wood comp was built by a slightly better tract builder, but the siding by the time i sold the house a few years ago was showing signs of failure on the sides of the house that take the weather.

I can only imagine on how crappy wood comp siding must have been for folks who live in a more humid climate, that **** must have rotted right off the house.

I think some lumberyards and even the occasional Home Depot or Lowes does indeed have some old stock wood comp siding in stock. If you cannot find any of the wood comp ****, I'd reside the first couple courses as others have mentioned with a Hardie Plank type product, caulk it, paint it, and you won't be able to tell there is a patch.

 

[MrMark]

Most of the masonite problems were due to poor installation and not following instructions. You have to seal the edges and cuts with primer. You have to paint under the lip of the siding. Siding installers wouldn't even think of priming edges on anything but the most expensive jobs where someone in the know demanded that they do it and bought them the paint and brush. Spray gun jobs don't get paint under the siding lip. Like many materials that got a bad name, installation problems played and continue to play a key part.

 

[Norcal]

The lawsuit I remember was for L-P Innerseal siding. The OP's siding is way to close to the ground & if not corrected will repeat the damage...

 

[southernfriedcj]

The thing about the "Masonite" type of siding is that if it was properly installed (blind nailed, flashed, caulked, primed, and painted), if you had the grade 8" below the first course and you maintained the paint & caulk, it was great siding.
Inexpensive and easy to work with.
We did an tearoff/replace siding job when the homeowner got a claim check and the only bad siding was where it was not propery flashed at the top of the chimney. The house was 15 to 20 years old.

 

[viper86]

I had this very problem along the back of my house. The siding was resting on the patio slab and just sucked up the moisture. The Menards here sells fiber cement siding in that width (I believe they sell Certainteed, but it's been a few years since I bought it). One side is smooth, the other is wood grain. I ended up replacing some of the sheathing underneath and also applied the ice barrier you would normally put under the first few rows of shingles just under the lower 3 rows of siding. This was what an architect I work with occasionally suggested. After 4+ years it seems to be doing its job in spite of the fact that the patio slab still is too close to the bottom of the siding. Fixing that will be a much larger issue.