Where can I purchase spline broached linkages

[LXCam]

So once again I'm reaching out to the wealth of knowledge here. Buddy of mine is in dire need of a replacement linkage for a bypass on his SC. The manufacturer of this unit closed their doors a decade ago so that's not an option.

For reference that's a 1/4 shaft. He has already reached out to BDS (blower drive services) but they were no help. I know I've seen a place linked here that sells these types but for the life of me am not having any luck finding them.

So I'm hoping someone here can help me point him in the right direction.

Thanks guys.

 

[isb cornbinder]

If the splines are striped the fix may be drilling a hole and taper reamed hole for a taper pin.
Tapered pins have been used for nearly 100 years.
https://www.newmantools.com/reamer/taperpinreamer1_48.htm
This company may be able to supply you with a spline broach for your application. I am under the impression they make custom broaches.
https://www.polygonsolutions.com/ro...otary-broaches/involute-spline-rotary-broach/
The crank should be a simple build for a machine shop.
I agree with your signature. The best humour comes out of a difficult life. Billy Connolly is a good example.

 

[LXCam]

If the splines are striped the fix may be drilling a hole and taper reamed hole for a taper pin.
Tapered pins have been used for nearly 100 years.
https://www.newmantools.com/reamer/taperpinreamer1_48.htm
This company may be able to supply you with a spline broach for your application. I am under the impression they make custom broaches.
https://www.polygonsolutions.com/ro...otary-broaches/involute-spline-rotary-broach/
The crank should be a simple build for a machine shop.
I agree with your signature. The best humour comes out of a difficult life. Billy Connolly is a good example.

Thanks ICB, ya I could pin it which would require pulling the unit. You don't have a clear shot otherwise. The other issue pulling the unit is it's in a WK jeep which means dropping the front cradle, engine and drivetrain just to properly reinstall the damn thing.

I found the broach for this and I could certainly machine him one. But he's a three hour drive away and if there's a simple off the shelf solution would be a much easier hum-well solution.

 

[Justind97]

Looks like a motorcycle shift arm could work in its place.

Something like this? https://goo.gl/images/hY4KEB


Funny ISB mentions newmantools, they’re 3 miles from my house.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Is that a picture of his or one like he needs ? The one in the picture appears to be pinned on the top already.

 

[Falcon67]

Might try Good Vibrations Motorsports

http://www.goodvibesracing.com/Shafts-Stops-Flys.htm

 

[LXCam]

Looks like a motorcycle shift arm could work in its place.

Something like this? https://goo.gl/images/hY4KEB


Funny ISB mentions newmantools, they’re 3 miles from my house.

Looks like it, but I'd be willing to bet that's for a shifter which would be a roughly 12mm shaft.

Is that a picture of his or one like he needs ? The one in the picture appears to be pinned on the top already.

That's the piece and no it's not pinned. That's a 6/32 set screw that didn't work. The aluminum arm was too soft and it stripped.

 

[Justind97]

Looks like it, but I'd be willing to bet that's for a shifter which would be a roughly 12mm shaft.

12mm shaft confirmed. Damn you're good!

I was going to suggest a set screw, and there you go saying it stripped the shaft...

Back to the drawing board..

 

[LXCam]

12mm shaft confirmed. Damn you're good!

I was going to suggest a set screw, and there you go saying it stripped the shaft...

Back to the drawing board..

Probably helped it was just yesterday I was wrenching on a bike with a remote shifter..haha

But I do appreciate the out of the box suggestion since it sparked an idea. My quad has a t handled reverse set up with something similar. I'll go see if it's the right shaft dimensions and if so

 

[ejabour]

You could heli coil the set screw hole. It would be stronger than the set screw by itself in AL.

 

[Justind97]

How about a slight design change and have it as a Wheel mounted to the shaft?

Like this: https://www.thetuningworks.co.uk/store/product_info.php?cPath=23_140&products_id=1240

 

[LXCam]

You could heli coil the set screw hole. It would be stronger than the set screw by itself in AL.

Problem is this is a really small piece. There's a 6mm bolt in the picture just above and to the right of the linkage. That's a button head with a 4mm hex drive. There's just not enough meat to do much with except pin it like ICB suggested.

How about a slight design change and have it as a Wheel mounted to the shaft?

Like this: https://www.thetuningworks.co.uk/store/product_info.php?cPath=23_140&products_id=1240

Ya that's an idea. But we'd be down to pulling it apart to make anything else work. This is one of those aggravating situations where you can see it but not get to it. Heck just tightening the clamp on the linkage *****.

 

[Justind97]

What about using a longer bolt through the arm and having a nut on the backside to tighten the hell out of the clamp?

 

[LXCam]

This should give you a better idea of the constraints. I built this jeep for SEMA in 09 for DIABLO motor sports. The thing I circled is the bypass actuator and it's about 4" long with a rod that attaches to the linkage. Getting to the shaft basically requires taking everything apart. If we have to go there we will, I'm just hoping to find an easier solution.

 

[LXCam]

What about using a longer bolt through the arm and having a nut on the backside to tighten the hell out of the clamp?

That's worth a shot. I've considered loctite too but am really concerned that some of it might wick into the shaft boss. This is an internal bypass and at 16lbs of boost, it's something you don't want sticking opened or closed. Right now the pressure forces it open so he can only make about 6-8lbs of boost.

 

[APEowner]

Can you get a straight shot at it from the end of the shaft? If so you can drill and tap a hole right on the joint and run a set screw into it. That would work like a large single spline joint.

 

[LXCam]

Can you get a straight shot at it from the end of the shaft? If so you can drill and tap a hole right on the joint and run a set screw into it. That would work like a large single spline joint.

Unfortunately no, plus with the arm being so soft I'd need to machine a drill guide to keep it centered. But I'm not going to rule this out either. It's a idea worth looking into a bit more.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Unfortunately no, plus with the arm being so soft I'd need to machine a drill guide to keep it centered. But I'm not going to rule this out either. It's a idea worth looking into a bit more.

I have done this quite often on old motorcycle shifter shafts to keep a kid riding. It works quite well. A setscrew acts both as a key and a retainer in this manner.

 

[jjkrjh]

How about carb/throttle levers. Just googled carb levers and this one came up. Aftermarket lp conversion companies have different levers/arms to pick from.

http://sucarb.co.uk/levers-throttle-stops/throttle-levers.html

 

[LXCam]

How about carb/throttle levers. Just googled carb levers and this one came up. Aftermarket lp conversion companies have different levers/arms to pick from.

http://sucarb.co.uk/levers-throttle-stops/throttle-levers.html

That's a damn good idea jj and certainly worth a shot. Thanks

Edit. So with your suggestion in mind I searched differently and of all the dang places to pop up was hillborn. Man did I feel stupid since I worked with them on the prototype units for the genIII hemi many years back. They have one for a 5/16 shaft which might work out fine with a little rework so it clamps tighter.

Thanks again, Cam.

 

[jjkrjh]

Maybe this. You could mill some off and redrill.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Throttle-Linkage-Arms,1911.html