Where did my anode rod go??

[manwithtools]

Hi. Can anybody confirm where my anode rod is?
I have the a o smith promax gcv 50 100series.
But i have little confidence in a o smith technical support.
I also suspecting the tpr was placed in lieu of the anode rod.
Also what is the right side thing of the WH for. I thought this is where the tpr was supposed to be.
Thanks in advance.

First, welcome to Garage Journal.

Second, if you carefully read the entire post you'll discover the OP (Original Poster) found his anode under the plastic plug on top of the heater - you have a similar plastic plug. Try removing it and see if the anode is under that. It looks like the T&P valve on your water heater is in the optional location according to the installation manual which you can find here:

https://www.hotwater.com/lit/im/res_gas/320386.pdf

 

[SGKent]

Some have a top TPR some have it on the side. The original anode rod on the water heater with the TPR on the top, if it was like mine, was a combination outlet and anode. I moved the TPR to the side, and used a standard anode plug style which is easier to find than the combination kind. The 10 year warranty water heaters usually have two anode rods - one in the top outlet and one where the TPR is on yours, with a TPR on the side. Ferguson supplied the parts to make the conversion on mine. Part of the idea on the combination outlet one is that the heat in the hot water has a harder time rising and falling in the outlet pipe so it is more energy efficient.

Photos are frrom www.plumbingsupply.com.

 

[sberry]

I aint messing with the rod, put it in 1980. The op put his unit in 23 yrs ago, now hoping to take care of it and make it last?

 

[rburke65]

Wife and I were at HD and get separated, then she found me looking at water heaters. She an atty....me a maintenance. electrician. “What ya doing?” I told her pricing heaters because ours is ..??? 13 years old and thinking about buying one and changing it out before it leaks. She said that is the most ridiculous thing she ever heard of.....there’s nothing wrong with the one we have. OK.... 9 days later....TYJ.....we came home and there was 2” of water in the finished basement. Told her to keep to her cookies and I’ll keep to the maintenance......

 

[rharman]

OP here.

Not under the plastic cap. That was a ********* for the insulation filling.

Look directly behind the vent for a knockout cut into the top. Mine was not punched too deep but I was able to get it out. That was the magic hiding place for the anode. BTW... Under the knockout was full of foam so the anode was not visible until I cleared that out.

 

[sberry]

Don't mess with it.

 

[Kenp]

OP here.

Not under the plastic cap. That was a ********* for the insulation filling.

Look directly behind the vent for a knockout cut into the top. Mine was not punched too deep but I was able to get it out. That was the magic hiding place for the anode. BTW... Under the knockout was full of foam so the anode was not visible until I cleared that out.

Nope nothing behind the except that plastic cap you see in the pic. Wondering if i should go with the conversion to use the optional location of the tpr on the side.
Thanks

 

[Kenp]

Thanks for the conversion tpr location suggestion.
Will need to research it.
I tried to take off the hot outlet ****** to see if the anode is there. But it was too tight even with the pipe wrench.
Gave up on that. But from a top view i couldnt see the anode ... plus you can see in the pic it doesnt look like an inline outlet hot rod either.

 

[rharman]

Bringing this back with a general plumbing question....

It's about time to replace the anode - based on the wear I saw last time I checked it.

I have a Blue Lightning anode I bought during this whole "Where's the friggin' anode?" episode but it's the type with the ****** end. I *think* those ******* are dielectric but not sure.

Anyway, I don't want to waste a $40 rod so I need to cap it. Is there any compelling reason to use galvanized or brass or does it not matter? I'm leaning towards galvanized.

 

[rlitman]

Bringing this back with a general plumbing question....

It's about time to replace the anode - based on the wear I saw last time I checked it.

I have a Blue Lightning anode I bought during this whole "Where's the friggin' anode?" episode but it's the type with the ****** end. I *think* those ******* are dielectric but not sure.

Anyway, I don't want to waste a $40 rod so I need to cap it. Is there any compelling reason to use galvanized or brass or does it not matter? I'm leaning towards galvanized.

Well, if you go with the galvanized, it will start rusting when your rod is shot. Still, I'd go with the brass.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

It's about time to replace the anode - based on the wear I saw last time I checked it.

3 years! Man, you've got some harsh water!!!

 

[thammel]

I have well water and a neutralizer and softener. I replace my anode rod every 2 years and by that time it's 70% gone. I'm hoping this replacement plan greatly extends the water heater life. It's working so far...
Tom

 

[rlitman]

Perhaps, but at that rate, an electronic anode would be much cheaper and easier.

 

[rharman]

3 years! Man, you've got some harsh water!!!

Water in our town is very hard. We have a water softener and that contributes to a more rapid decay of the anode.

My guess is it would probably be good for at least another year but I want to check it again. I still get junk coming out when I do a mini-drain every few months.

Since I have to take it out and I have a new one "in stock", might as well replace now.