Where should I put the building? Survey inside

[Ldouble619]

Ok, I'm having a hard time deciding where to put a 40x60 metal building.

I want to build a house here, but that won't be for 10-15 years (possibly the green box)

Red or blue box? or somewhere different? I plan on bringing the entire front of the lot up to the flood plane at some point.

I'm going to have a loft with windows, so I'm thinking of angling the building (blue box)

thanks

 

[Bib Overalls]

First, I think your house site, with the lake view, is spot on. Looks like a very nice bit of paradise.

I'm going to assume the easement is access for another property owner. Even if that is not the case, having the shop adjacent to the easement makes access better. So my vote would be red.

Blue would require fill and more complicated and extensive access.

 

[LennyTheLizard]

My friend told me:

Space it close enough to house that's it not a pain for you to walk there, but far enough that's a pain for your wife to walk there.

 

[Red Green]

I can't read the drawing to tell which way north is. I would want the 60ft side facing south so that if you want to add solar panels or heaters at a later point the roof is facing the correct way.

 

[tsherry]

First, figure out from your local regulatory authorities what issues you have building within the floodplain, filling within the floodplain, etc.

Second, if you need to raise up the pad for the home, DO IT BEFORE THE REGULATIONS CHANGE. I have a lot of clients that now, cannot build as the rules changed after they bought the property. Build the garage within convenient walking distance AND within convenient surveillance of the house. Too close to the road = easy to rip a door out with a truck and a chain, loot it, and be gone by the time anyone notices, alarm system or not.

 

[Bunchgrass]

IMHO -

1) make sure you have easy access from house AND for pickup w/ loaded trailer to get backed in and turned around.

2) allow for add on/expansion of the building (think leantos/shed roofs)

3) make sure you don't have snow sliding off the roof and into your driveway or other "necessary" thoroughfares. Assuming you're in snow country.

Just some first thoughts.

 

[964haus]

Is it a flat site?

 

[underpressure02]

I would build it closer to the house. I had to make the same decision and decided to build my garage 190 feet from my house instead of about 40 feet. The walk isn't that bad but people snooping around and already had one break in is a pain in the ***. Plus now that I have moved all my tools down to the big garage anytime I want to do work at the house I am running back and forth getting tools so now I started a new tool collection up at the house so I don't need to go back and forth.

If I could do it all over again I would put the garage a lot closer to the house.

 

[Ldouble619]

Thanks for all the good tips. I never thought about the walk to and from. I forgot I had that once, about .8 acre from house to garage and it sucked!

 

[AZ Pete]

Heed tsherry's advice. There may be some real issues associated with building in the flood plane, or filling the flood plane. Find out now and take appropriate action.

 

[Grumpy365]

AE, A1-A30 Areas subject to inundation by the 1-percent-annual-chance flood event determined by detailed methods. BFEs are shown within these zones. (Zone AE is used on new and revised maps in place of Zones A1–A30.)

I tried to build in a flood plane and it was a pain in the a*******

And your place is in the flood plane.

FEMA has a list of requirements for building.
http://www.fema.gov/floodplain-management/zone-ae-and-a1-30#1

Plus whatever you build effects everything around you and your building in the flood plains can screw the next lot. FEMA probably has regulations meant to protect against that.

And for gawd sakes, put a location in. City, county, state, something. So we can get you advice with people familiar to your area.

 

[Ldouble619]

Sorry, property is in lake county Florida. Thanks for the help

 

[pdham]

Another thing to consider are the utilities, namely sewer/septic and water. If you will be on a private well and septic make sure you have the perc done and drain field layout approved by the local health department. The health dept. will locate the drain field and expansion area. The well typically needs to be 100' away from any drain field and 50' from any structure. The septic drain field is usually 50' from any structure and can't be under any parking or roadway. Also if there is any chance that you may be driving anything heavier than a lawn tractor over the septic tank, buy a traffic bearing tank. Also consider if you might want a swimming pool in the future, plan where this will go as well, as the well and septic drain field location will effect this as well. Like others have said, pull the permit and get the foundation in for the house as soon as you can to avoid changes in zoning that could effect the location you desire.

 

[72Anthony]

In general, your development can not reduce the flood plain storage volume...there can be no net increase. So if you needed a 2 ft high pad to raise your 40x60 above the flood plain (2x40x60 = 4800 cubic feet), you would need to remove 4800 cubic feet of soil from somewhere else on your property. This is referred to as mitigation, in particular, cut and fill.

You will need to go back to your surveyor and have them perform an elevation survey; taking elevation measurements on a grid...almost like a topographical map.

Then you need to compare the elevations of your property to the Base Flood Elevation (BFE). Generally you have to raise the lowest level of the structure 1 foot above the BFE.

Hopefully your property is not that far below the flood plain. Your surveyor should be able to recommend a civil/structural engineering firm that can assist you further and advise you of any additional local requirements.

Good luck, you have a lot of land to work with.

 

[Grumpy365]

Are you planning on putting the metal building in now and a home later?

I think you may have issues.

I see Lake County has zoning.

What ZONE are you?

You also probably have some setbacks to contend with.

http://www.lakecountyfl.gov/departm...idential_zoning/structures_and_dwellings.aspx

Structures/Accessory:

There must be a permitted principal structure on the lot that is in full compliance.

A structure for agricultural purposes (general or non-intensive), on a conforming lot (size) in Agriculture, Ranchette and Agricultural Residential zoning districts shall be considered the principal structure.

All accessory structures shall comply with applicable standards and codes, unless exempted.

Accessory structures shall not be located in a required buffer area, landscape buffer strips, or a minimum building setback area.

Accessory structure square footage shall not exceed 80% of the main floor square footage of the enclosed living area of the permitted principal structure excluding features such as garages, patios, and porches. If there is more than one accessory structure, the combined square footage shall apply.

Accessory structures shall not exceed the height of the principal structure or 25’, whichever is greater.

Conforming lots within the Agriculture, Ranchette, and Agricultural Residential zoning districts that are two acres in size or larger are exempt from the above two requirements

 

[DekeT]

Ok, I'm having a hard time deciding where to put a 40x60 metal building.

I want to build a house here, but that won't be for 10-15 years (possibly the green box)

Red or blue box? or somewhere different? I plan on bringing the entire front of the lot up to the flood plane at some point.

I'm going to have a loft with windows, so I'm thinking of angling the building (blue box)

thanks

From examination of your section township and range it looks to me from the Lake County zoning map your land is in a zone where you cannot put up an accessory structure without first building a principal use structure(house). You also have setback considerations, easement concerns, and maybe a lake overlay restriction. This is just a first look at your property. You need a qualified ag district and some other I forget, to do what you want without a principal use. And you cannot exceed 1200sq ft or 40% of the principal.

You really need to do some research here. I think you are in for a huge change in plans.

 

[Jimi]

You really need to do some research here.

That is indeed true IF you've already bought the property. If you have not, still do the research. There's not been any bad advice so far that I've read above.

When I bought my place, I too was thinking all about my future garage's placement as you're doing. Don't get too far ahead of yourself and get let down. That home placement, with it's well and septic field (if not on city water and sewer) is going to be the priority. I hope it all works out for the best!

 

[DekeT]

The only thing you need to do right now is contact your local building department and talk to them about your plans. Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING you are considering is pure speculation until you contact them. Everything you need to know to get started is available on their web site. They will get you on the right path.

 

[Bunchgrass]

One more consideration is cost to run power to the building. Our power company is gracious with running service from the transformer to the service panel when they consider it "new service" but you get hammered when they run service to your new building ...... not considered new service (i.e same customer). Also, do you want buried or overhead service? Good luck.

 

[Bevis]

The FEMA flood zones are changing for Florida. They should be going into effect this year. So you May or may not be in a flood zone at that point.