Where to find 19 GA CRS sheet

[mikhett]

I need to make 2 door skins 52x30 and want to use 19 GA CRS but can only find 18&20.Any suggestions?

 

[ilovevocs]

My steel supplier stocks flats in gauge thickness. What type of business have you contacted?

 

[cvairwerks]

19 is going to be pretty hard to find. There is only .006" difference between 18 and 19, so shouldn't be a problem to use the 18.

 

[dffay]

The body builders all seem to use 19 gauge Aluminum killed steel rather than CR. It forms the best. Maybe widen your search for that. It's not in everyone's stock but it is available

 

[stinkity stoink]

I get mine in Plainfield nj. I think it's ITT steel, they can order it

 

[EdT]

I have gotten 19 ga AK steel in small quantities from Radical Engineering. The prices are reasonable and they ship FEDEX very well packaged. [email protected]. Phone 336-644-7406. Hope he still has it as I'll be needing more.

 

[sberry]

I was wondering on how one came to cold roll for this also?

 

[dr_clyde]

I was wondering on how one came to cold roll for this also?

CRS is really common in sheet goods, so it may be the only kind of sheet metal the guy has dealt with. My laser guy doesn't even stock HR sheet or HRPO sheet anymore. Cold rolled for everything unless specified otherwise. It is more consistent and reliable for forming, cutting, welding and handling. For this application, I'm not sure its the most suited. It probably would work fine, but it could be better.


Personally, I would just use 18 GA HRPO and call it a day, because P&O steel is cheap, plentiful and its just a door skin. Most any steel supplier worth doing business with will have this by the ton. They can shear it to your size for a few extra bucks if you don't have the tools to cut down sheet stock.

 

[sberry]

It would be 18 hot roll for me too, depending on how big it needed to be would be awfully tempted to get it from the side of a major appliance too. Its so well cleaned and painted/primed that it could save a lot of work especially for a home brew situation. It might not be big enough from a washer or dryer and old freezer tops are getting harder to find.
I don't rebuild a lot of cars, I have done a fair amount of rust damage work but not many whole skins, when I do a repair I try to use a heavier sheep, lots of smaller pieces as heavy as 16, you can still form pieces but they really stay in shape from welds etc.
You can see a little booger in a weld here, pretty much irrelevant though and so much easier to weld a plate a little heavier. The fabricator even welded some stuff to the other side which would have been a problem on a light sheet especially in some ******** position.

 

[MP&C]

Hot rolled is more malleable, but also is more susceptible to inconsistency in cooling and thickness (affecting stresses). To that Cold rolled adds work hardening and strengthening to the steel. It also improves surface finish and dimensional thickness tolerances. For a door skin, cold rolled is going to be better at maintaining that nice straight shape. Need to add curves or shape, use AKDQ cold rolled, or Aluminum Killed, Drawing Quality. Hot rolled is cheaper for sure, but for automotive work that you plan on finishing and painting, cold rolled is the better choice. If you've ever had to prep hot rolled with mill scale for painting, any cost savings you realize is more than eaten up in prep work. If you are doing sheet metal on an automobile, use cold rolled.


For NON-automotive, buy whatever meets your project finish expectations. If this were for shop equipment or farm implements with rolled on/brushed on paint finish, who cares. If you expect a less flawed finish with better paint adhesion properties, spend the extra for cold rolled.

 

[sberry]

Yes, I spose the lack of scale would be a big plus.