Where to Install Gun Safe?

[u3b3rg33k]

I personally kept a goldenrod and two desiccant cans in rotation in my garage, and I would have to clean a spot or two of rust regularly. Safe inside the house is spotless for years. Not saying that you can't get away with it, but I would avoid if possible.

nothing beats keeping the dewpoint under control and the temperature high enough to not be right next to said dewpoint. for tool storage, I keep my garage set to 50% Rh with the appropriate hvac equipment, and it works great.

 

[brownbagg]

us rednecks just buy a pretty one, like liberty safe and just put it in the living room by the sofa

im not joking

 

[isb cornbinder]

My wife and I were looking for another house. The house and property we almost bought has a big basement with a pantry/wine room behind a door off the recreation room. One of the wine room shelves moved to open into a gun room about 20' by 10'. More checking showed this to be an underground cave in solid rock. I do not have guns, but the 6 car garage was interesting.

 

[mike93lx]

Mine is in the garage inside a tornado shelter. Out of sight, much harder to break into and it saved some space combining the two

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Not to hijack but this subject is of interest for me currently:

My brother-in-law recently passed away and my sister asked me to sell his gun safe. It's a Sentry Safe Model GM3659E, a fews years old.

WHERE would I have the best luck selling this thing? I won't ask for price recommendations because it probably violates GJ rules but I checked Craigslist and large ones are priced between $600 up to almost $5000. I'm sure there is a BIG difference in quality and reputation but I know what he paid and will price below that somewhere. I just don't know WHERE to run an ad for it.

 

[mike93lx]

Not to hijack but this subject is of interest for me currently:

My brother-in-law recently passed away and my sister asked me to sell his gun safe. It's a Sentry Safe Model GM3659E, a fews years old.

WHERE would I have the best luck selling this thing? I won't ask for price recommendations because it probably violates GJ rules but I checked Craigslist and large ones are priced between $600 up to almost $5000. I'm sure there is a BIG difference in quality and reputation but I know what he paid and will price below that somewhere. I just don't know WHERE to run an ad for it.

Local since you aren't shipping. CL, FB MP, offer up, whatever your flavor is

No sentry safe is worth almost any part of that range.

Find a new price and list it for half, IMO

 

[unslow1]

Walmart clearanced that model here for $717.

 

[Max]

Not to hijack but this subject is of interest for me currently:

My brother-in-law recently passed away and my sister asked me to sell his gun safe. It's a Sentry Safe Model GM3659E, a fews years old.

WHERE would I have the best luck selling this thing? I won't ask for price recommendations because it probably violates GJ rules but I checked Craigslist and large ones are priced between $600 up to almost $5000. I'm sure there is a BIG difference in quality and reputation but I know what he paid and will price below that somewhere. I just don't know WHERE to run an ad for it.

Sorry for the loss of your BiL. A quick web search says that model sold for about $1700. I’d try CL and FBM at the same time.

The specs give a fire rating and say it meets CA DoJ security requirements. At least on the page I saw it didn’t say it met UL. RSC specs. The DoJ requirements are either some basic specs or RSC rating, and it looks like your safe is the former.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks guys.

 

[rayra]

Not to hijack but this subject is of interest for me currently:

My brother-in-law recently passed away and my sister asked me to sell his gun safe. It's a Sentry Safe Model GM3659E, a fews years old.

WHERE would I have the best luck selling this thing? I won't ask for price recommendations because it probably violates GJ rules but I checked Craigslist and large ones are priced between $600 up to almost $5000. I'm sure there is a BIG difference in quality and reputation but I know what he paid and will price below that somewhere. I just don't know WHERE to run an ad for it.

Gunbroker, akin to eBay. And I think you can restrict / limit the geography where it is seen or specify 'buyer picks up' in the description of selling settings.

And akin to eBay, I think you can prevent zero or low feedback accounts from even bidding, to save those headaches as well.

 

[rancherbill]

Sell the guns and safe unless you live in inner city Detroit.

 

[rayra]

And I failed to mention an idea I'd used at our prior house, my main safe bolted to the slab in the back corner of the garage - I build a facade out of old medium packing boxes, their side faces with a few inches of the adjacent sides and top / bottom, fastened together, with exciting labels like 'school books' and 'grandma's quilt' and 'old sweaters' and even stacked them slightly askew before fastening.
The three boxes were just the height of the safe and I threw a large plastic tote on top of that with 'XMas garlands' on top of the safe. For all the world it looked like a stack of dusty junk in the corner.
I made sure the door was always down when I was rooting around in the safe.
I'll see if I can find pictures of that setup, in was several years ago that I did it and we've moved since.

The other thing when using a closet or similar corner arrangement, if you at all can, position the safe so the opening side of the door has a wall adjacent on the left. Most safes open to the right. So in the right end of a normal closet, or in the corner of a walk in, the safe rotated to the right so that door opening is near the adjacent wall. This greatly complicates any attempt to pry open the door. And if the safe is bolted on bottom and two adjacent sides, it isn't easy to tear out, either.

There's an oddball nook in our master bedroom, adjacent to a piece of wall separating the bath area from the bedroom proper. I think I'm putting a safe there when I can find a larger one that can just fit in the nook. An dI intend to built a linen closet sort of thing on that wall, where the area above the safe in the nook is an actual linen closet space. But the rest will be a facade to look like a cabinet and conceal the safe from casual notice.
I have another space out of sight in mind, but I'm not disclosing that. In the meantime my primary safe is bolted down in the master closeet.


eta here they are

 

[u3b3rg33k]

Sorry for the loss of your BiL. A quick web search says that model sold for about $1700. I’d try CL and FBM at the same time.

The specs give a fire rating and say it meets CA DoJ security requirements. At least on the page I saw it didn’t say it met UL. RSC specs. The DoJ requirements are either some basic specs or RSC rating, and it looks like your safe is the former.

it's amazing how much stuff out there doesn't even meet RSC. not that RSC will stop someone from GJ who shows up with a plasma torch/milwaukee circular saw with a metal blade and goes in through the side, but c'mon!

pretty sure the RSC standard is something like "can't get in in 15 min with a beefy flat blade screwdriver and a tack hammer."

 

[rayra]

Sell the guns and safe unless you live in inner city Detroit.

I guess you wouldn't know it in Canada, a good bit of Pasadena is like Detroit, crime-ridden. They don't show that part during the Rose Parade.

 

[uscarry45]

Recently moved and debating on a location to install my safe. I have 4 choices. Curious to know what others are doing and/or if I’m overlooking a better option.

FYI ballpark dimensions are 60x30x24 @ 1,000#.

Also we have an alarm, additional insurance, hidden video surveillance, two dogs and the house is occupied 90% of the time due to self employment & work from home options. Added bonus is we have good neighbors that are nosy enough to keep a good eye on the place in our absence.

1. Install in garage. Concerns are visibility and humidity. I would install a rubber horse mat below the safe and build a base from pressure treated 2x material. Lay it flat and construct so there are no gaps for leverage. Would bolt to the concrete floor. And I would frame in around the safe to combat visibility issues and make it harder to access. I would also run a dehumidifier rod and bucket to further help control humidity. Other concern is location would affect available width to park. It’s tight with big vehicles. Would prefer to keep built-ins @ 21-24” for this reason. Safe built in would require 27”+ to accommodate handle.

2. Install in master closet. Again would bolt to concrete floor. No humidity or visibility issues. Due to configuration, kind of a pain to access to load and unload which maybe works well if someone breaks in. Concern here is it’s a common area thieves target & search. One side could be snugged against a wall as well as the back.

3. Upstairs in closet of spare room/office. Would likely hire out the move so I don’t kill myself. Concerns with weight going up stairs and also ensuring final resting spot is strong. Not sure if I will need to install plywood to help distribute load and/or need to beef up floor joists. Less likely to be seen or targeted. Concerns aside from weight are it would be near kids room (would be locked but dislike the idea), would have to lug guns up/down stairs. Also if floor weakened or there was a fire it may collapse and would fall into the garage/on top of vehicle(s).

4. Upstairs in a walk-in attic space. What I like most is I don’t foresee it as a highly targeted space especially the way it’s configured. The specific spot I’d use is in a blind corner and would naturally have framed in spaces on the back and side. I could frame in the other side and on top as well to make it a little more difficult. Bolting down would be to a plywood floor. Also I’d have the same humidity concerns and solutions as the garage option. Wondering if I shouldn’t drywall (or plywood) in and run a vent in the space so it’s heated and cooled. If I did that I would also be inclined to build a bench and some storage so I could clean, build and reload. Almost like my own gun room. I’d still have to lug stuff up/down the stairs. Same concerns with fire, etc and potential to collapse on LIVING space below.

Don’t do the garage for humidity and visibility reasons

if it’s a high quality safe they are difficult to break into and thieves are more likely to try and steal the whole thing. Bolt down and build around it to make difficult to pry against

the only thing I don’t like is having someone move it upstairs it’s one more person who know what you have. If you go this route go with a safe moving company and write down every persons name that touches your safe and file away

 

[rayra]

...and write down every persons name that touches your safe and file away

Just don't keep that list IN the safe.

 

[Max]

it's amazing how much stuff out there doesn't even meet RSC. not that RSC will stop someone from GJ who shows up with a plasma torch/milwaukee circular saw with a metal blade and goes in through the side, but c'mon!

pretty sure the RSC standard is something like "can't get in in 15 min with a beefy flat blade screwdriver and a tack hammer."

A RSC is pretty easy to pry open. If for some reason that fails, a reciprocating saw will go right through it. They are essentially two thin layers of steel with drywall between the steel.

UL spec is here: https://www.ul.com/news/residential-security-container-standard-revised

Note that most RSCs are level 1, and a six foot pry bar is not allowed in the test for a level 1…

From the web page:

Graduated Performance Levels​

The updated standard maintains the prior performance requirements, now known as attack level one, and adds incremental layers to create a graduated degree of performance protection.

• Attack level one requires the product to withstand a five-minute attack by one technician using common hand tools such as drills, screwdrivers and hammers. If the product successfully performs to the minimum requirements, it is eligible for certification.
• Attack level two products must be able to withstand a ten-minute attack by two technicians who use more aggressive tools such as picks, high-speed carbide drills and pressure applying devices. In addition, the technicians will attempt to make a six-square-inch opening in the door or the front face of the gun safe; the product must resist their efforts.
• Attack level three also gives two technicians a ten-minute window to perform the test, but the range of tools become even more aggressive. Additionally, the size of the maximum attack opening shrinks significantly from six-square-inches to two-square-inches.

One thing to note is that UL only runs the clock when a tool is on the safe. So if a tester stops to swap out a saw blade the clock is stopped. Also, the UL testers are very experienced in abusing safes, and they look at the full specs of the safe before they start testing…

 

[uscarry45]

Just don't keep that list IN the safe.

Excellent point

 

[u3b3rg33k]

us rednecks just buy a pretty one, like liberty safe and just put it in the living room by the sofa

im not joking

just bolt your liberty 48 to the floor where the TV would go! (I wouldn't want it to fall on me)

A RSC is pretty easy to pry open. If for some reason that fails, a reciprocating saw will go right through it. They are essentially two thin layers of steel with drywall between the steel.

UL spec is here: https://www.ul.com/news/residential-security-container-standard-revised

Note that most RSCs are level 1, and a six foot pry bar is not allowed in the test for a level 1…

From the web page:

Graduated Performance Levels​

The updated standard maintains the prior performance requirements, now known as attack level one, and adds incremental layers to create a graduated degree of performance protection.

• Attack level one requires the product to withstand a five-minute attack by one technician using common hand tools such as drills, screwdrivers and hammers. If the product successfully performs to the minimum requirements, it is eligible for certification.
• Attack level two products must be able to withstand a ten-minute attack by two technicians who use more aggressive tools such as picks, high-speed carbide drills and pressure applying devices. In addition, the technicians will attempt to make a six-square-inch opening in the door or the front face of the gun safe; the product must resist their efforts.
• Attack level three also gives two technicians a ten-minute window to perform the test, but the range of tools become even more aggressive. Additionally, the size of the maximum attack opening shrinks significantly from six-square-inches to two-square-inches.

One thing to note is that UL only runs the clock when a tool is on the safe. So if a tester stops to swap out a saw blade the clock is stopped. Also, the UL testers are very experienced in abusing safes, and they look at the full specs of the safe before they start testing…

10 minutes of actual working time isn't too bad. for a klutz that's probably 30min of B&E time.

USA

Special Financing 24 month 0% APR available for a limited time* Offer valid through 05/4/2026. Introducing Liberty's USA gun safe line—an exceptional blend of features tailored for first-time safe buyers. Positioned as the "Goldilocks" choice, it strikes the perfect balance: not too small to...

www.libertysafe.com

they claim "Level 3 Security", I'm almost surprised they didn't make it heavier, it's pretty close to the 750# mark. but it can be bolted down so they don't have to test for drops. then again if you got that monster in your basement, good luck getting it out. I've seen the tools the pros use to deliver them.

 

[Max]

just bolt your liberty 48 to the floor where the TV would go! (I wouldn't want it to fall on me)

10 minutes of actual working time isn't too bad. for a klutz that's probably 30min of B&E time.

USA

Special Financing 24 month 0% APR available for a limited time* Offer valid through 05/4/2026. Introducing Liberty's USA gun safe line—an exceptional blend of features tailored for first-time safe buyers. Positioned as the "Goldilocks" choice, it strikes the perfect balance: not too small to...

www.libertysafe.com

they claim "Level 3 Security", I'm almost surprised they didn't make it heavier, it's pretty close to the 750# mark. but it can be bolted down so they don't have to test for drops. then again if you got that monster in your basement, good luck getting it out. I've seen the tools the pros use to deliver them.

I used to have a Liberty safe - a Franklin if I remember right. It was a level 1 RSC. I am very disappointed in that Liberty ad as from the weight and construction it’s a level 1. They imply it’s UL level 3, but if you notice, they say level 3, but they are very careful to simply say it’s UL listed and to never say it’s UL level 3 listed.

Here is a link to a real level 2 safe: note the weight, cost, and construction. It’s got a 1/2 steel plate front door, a 5/16 thick steel inner layer (most level 1’s are 12 or 14 ga), and it weighs 1244 pounds. https://www.deansafe.com/products/amsec-bfii6032-american-security-gun-safe

 

[ddurrett896]

Big safe in the garage.
Small safe next to bed with pistol.
Small safe next to wallet/keys with carry pistols.

 

[brownbagg]

i really dont want a safe in the garage, protect by flimpsy door with all my power tools laying around, and everybody see it when the door open

 

[crewchief888]

i had a safe in my old house in central florida had it delivered by the safe company and put into place in a bedroom closet. guns, ammo, powder and primers stored there as well.
i did all my reloading in the attached (non-climate controlled) garage.
dont have one at my current house, i have guns scattered around the house, as well as in the basement reloading room.
i dont have nearly as many guns as i used to have at the previous house.

 

[u3b3rg33k]

I used to have a Liberty safe - a Franklin if I remember right. It was a level 1 RSC. I am very disappointed in that Liberty ad as from the weight and construction it’s a level 1. They imply it’s UL level 3, but if you notice, they say level 3, but they are very careful to simply say it’s UL listed and to never say it’s UL level 3 listed.

Here is a link to a real level 2 safe: note the weight, cost, and construction. It’s got a 1/2 steel plate front door, a 5/16 thick steel inner layer (most level 1’s are 12 or 14 ga), and it weighs 1244 pounds. https://www.deansafe.com/products/amsec-bfii6032-american-security-gun-safe

it's their level 3 security lol. there's two lesser levels!

I figure an RSC will keep the kiddos out.

 

[Max]

it's their level 3 security lol. there's two lesser levels!

I figure an RSC will keep the kiddos out.

Agreed! I don’t think it’s a guarrantee against a motivated an older teen that (captain obvious) watches youtube. But otherwise I think they are good. And they will stop the tweaker that didn’t bring the 6’ prybar or that doesn’t have enough time…

 

[DeeDubz]

My safe sits in my wifes office. It kinda stands out its a liberty fat boy jr. But its not bad on the eyes so I dont think its an issue. Im not sure what your packing but If its not hard to look at it might be an option.

 

[rayra]

I'm wanting to get ours out of the master closet because that's where the attic access is and I'm probably having several trades up there this winter to make some plumbing, insulation and ventilation modifications. Last thing I need is a bunch of strangers seeing a big safe.
I may move it to another bedroom close and bolt it down there and bury it like I did before and maybe even lock that bedroom door just to ensure it isn't spotted.

 

[wantedabiggergarage]

I am often wondering why people don't take it into consideration when building/remodeling a house and used part of an existing wall.

 

[rmmiller]

Also if floor weakened or there was a fire it may collapse and would fall into the garage/on top of vehicle(s).

If the fire reaches the point of the safe falling through the floor I'd say the cars are toast!

 

[Metal-Marc]

In the living room with the TV on top?

 

[unslow1]

I'm wanting to get ours out of the master closet because that's where the attic access is and I'm probably having several trades up there this winter to make some plumbing, insulation and ventilation modifications. Last thing I need is a bunch of strangers seeing a big safe.
I may move it to another bedroom close and bolt it down there and bury it like I did before and maybe even lock that bedroom door just to ensure it isn't spotted.

It might be easier to cut a new access in a different closet.

 

[rayra]

It might be easier to cut a new access in a different closet.

It might. What I would really like would be some pull down stairs in the hallway. But I'm not even sure which way the rafters run and the roof mounted HVAC and its ceiling mounted return are right at the turn in the hallway. I have to get up there to see where else might work. This winter.

 

[wantedabiggergarage]

It might. What I would really like would be some pull down stairs in the hallway. But I'm not even sure which way the rafters run and the roof mounted HVAC and its ceiling mounted return are right at the turn in the hallway. I have to get up there to see where else might work. This winter.

Don't you mean pull up stairs, that you could have Spot, sit in front of the safe?

 

[nolimits76]

My wife and I were looking for another house. The house and property we almost bought has a big basement with a pantry/wine room behind a door off the recreation room. One of the wine room shelves moved to open into a gun room about 20' by 10'. More checking showed this to be an underground cave in solid rock. I do not have guns, but the 6 car garage was interesting.

That's a dream come true. 007 secret gun room! And a nice size to boot!

Not to hijack but this subject is of interest for me currently:

My brother-in-law recently passed away and my sister asked me to sell his gun safe. It's a Sentry Safe Model GM3659E, a fews years old.

WHERE would I have the best luck selling this thing? I won't ask for price recommendations because it probably violates GJ rules but I checked Craigslist and large ones are priced between $600 up to almost $5000. I'm sure there is a BIG difference in quality and reputation but I know what he paid and will price below that somewhere. I just don't know WHERE to run an ad for it.

Sorry about your loss. The reason you are seeing such disparity in pricing is because quality level and sizes vary so much. The good part is you have a brand and model number. Doing a quick Google search, you can find some additional information about this. It appears the manufacturer still offers the safe brand new for around $1,100. At one point larger retailers like Walmart & Amazon had them, but it looks like they sold out around $700 or so.

Sentry Safe 36-Gun FIRE-SAFE Electronic Lock Safe Matte Model: GM3659E

Sentry Safe 36-Gun FIRE-SAFE Electronic Lock Safe Matte Model: GM3659E ETL verified to manufacturer’s fire protection of 1400° F for ½ hour while the interior temperature remains below 350° F. Available in 14-gun, 24-gun and 36-gun capacities.

www.sentrysafeshop.com

You need to understand this is a lower end safe. And most folks in the market will know this. This isn't necessarily bad. A low end safe is better than no safe and is usually good enough to keep kiddos away from the bang-bangs. But to move it, you will likely have to make it a good deal for someone. I'd guess $500-600 but you can (and should) do better market research than my 5 minutes.

Speaking from personal experience, your bigger obstacle may be the expectation of your sister. She may believe it's worth considerably more and disrespectful to let it go for less than whatever value she has in HER head as "fair". I wouldn't bother trying to logic it out with her personally. If you can sell for $500 and she thinks $700 is fair then I'd secretly put $200 of my own cash with it so she can let it go with a clean conscience. Hopefully her opinion of fair is something you can cover if you can't get on the street.

And I failed to mention an idea I'd used at our prior house, my main safe bolted to the slab in the back corner of the garage - I build a facade out of old medium packing boxes, their side faces with a few inches of the adjacent sides and top / bottom, fastened together, with exciting labels like 'school books' and 'grandma's quilt' and 'old sweaters' and even stacked them slightly askew before fastening.
The three boxes were just the height of the safe and I threw a large plastic tote on top of that with 'XMas garlands' on top of the safe. For all the world it looked like a stack of dusty junk in the corner.
I made sure the door was always down when I was rooting around in the safe.
I'll see if I can find pictures of that setup, in was several years ago that I did it and we've moved since.

The other thing when using a closet or similar corner arrangement, if you at all can, position the safe so the opening side of the door has a wall adjacent on the left. Most safes open to the right. So in the right end of a normal closet, or in the corner of a walk in, the safe rotated to the right so that door opening is near the adjacent wall. This greatly complicates any attempt to pry open the door. And if the safe is bolted on bottom and two adjacent sides, it isn't easy to tear out, either.

Very cool. Thanks for sharing that pic. The decoy job was amazing!

And if I were to put in the garage I would have that situation with the door that you mentioned.

it's amazing how much stuff out there doesn't even meet RSC. not that RSC will stop someone from GJ who shows up with a plasma torch/milwaukee circular saw with a metal blade and goes in through the side, but c'mon!

pretty sure the RSC standard is something like "can't get in in 15 min with a beefy flat blade screwdriver and a tack hammer."

LOL, pretty much. Most "safes" are RSC's. True safes use solid steel and aren't cheap at all. In fairness, there are different grades of RSC. The smart buyer will look at construction technique and steel gauge of the safe they are considering buying.

I understand I have a glorified RSC but I also understand it's better than most and for the price point it was a good overall value. To get the safe I'd really want I'd spent $10k+. At honestly, at that point, I'm more interested in a 007 hidden gun room mortared in with steel plates, etc.

My safe sits in my wifes office. It kinda stands out its a liberty fat boy jr. But its not bad on the eyes so I dont think its an issue. Im not sure what your packing but If its not hard to look at it might be an option.

In my case, the office is upstairs so I'm back to the dilemma of putting lots of a weight in a confined footprint. Leaving in open sight is not something I am interested in doing. Even if I were to put in the garage, I would build out around it so it looks like a homemade bench and cabinet.

What you keep in them matters not. You could stock it with bottled water, but if the wrong person sees a safe THEY think there are valuables inside and if they are driven in that way, you (well, maybe you, but probably your safe) become a target.

It might. What I would really like would be some pull down stairs in the hallway. But I'm not even sure which way the rafters run and the roof mounted HVAC and its ceiling mounted return are right at the turn in the hallway. I have to get up there to see where else might work. This winter.

Do you have a garage? Most places I've lived have pull down stairs in the garage. Usually flimsy, cheapest **** you can find pull down stairs. But once I did a custom build and got a nice wide set with high weight capacity. One of the best decisions I made. I have yet to crawl up a set of those stairs with my hands empty so when calculating weight load, add for the junk your wife is going to make you carry up there, lol.

At one point I was looking at some of these for a particular house, but we moved before I got to replacing them.

Prestige – Rainbow Attic Stair

 

[thirdgoat]

Mine is in the corner of my attached garage, bolted (4) to the floor. I chose a left corner of the garage as my safe door is hinged on the right. With the door hinged on the right side there is virtually no room to insert prybars or other tools in an attempt toremove the drro. I also deleted the electronic locks for Sergeant and Greenleaf full mechanical locks. I worked for the Department of the Army for 43 years, I worked, setup installed, and changed combinations all over the building. SCIF's conference areas, crypto material safes, general classified storage.
If a tornado blows through here, my house might be gone but the safe will likely be the only thing still standing! Next one will be set up as an in-floor chest.

 

[Death Row Dave]

How about at my house ? I’ll watch them and protect them safely for you . Just kidding !

 

[derek_m]

Of the OP's options I would go with number 2. In conditioned space and best option for structural support being slab.

In my current home mine is in the master bedroom against the exterior corner. Higher structural support (I have a crawlspace foundation) and two exterior walls means its a cooler spot in case there's a fire. Really not concerned about burglary here.

 

[Lidrappen]

If moisture is a concern, a good dehumidifier inside the safe can help. I’ve also seen people bolt their safes to the basement slab to keep them extra secure. Another thing to think about is weight—some floors might not handle a really heavy unit well. If you’re still looking for options, Home Safes has a solid selection with different sizes to fit different spaces. Security and convenience should go hand in hand.

 

[cgrutt]

Put the monster in the garage, bolted to the slab and wall and put on nondescript cabinet around it to obscure it from casual notice.
Put a smaller safe for a few 'ready' firearms in the master closet, likewise secured.

My thoughts as well. I have similar sized gun safe it had been installed in basement currently in garage. No issues with rust or excess humidity. I had much smaller gun safe as well as quick access pistol container in master bedroom currently keep a couple pistols in small document safe next to my bed. In my view the value of safe lies primarily in keeping guns out of children's hands, provides some protection (maybe) during fire and buys some time for anybody else who may want them. Take the mystery out of guns from your kids from early on.

 

[housewolf]

I personally kept a goldenrod and two desiccant cans in rotation in my garage, and I would have to clean a spot or two of rust regularly. Safe inside the house is spotless for years. Not saying that you can't get away with it, but I would avoid if possible.

My safe is in a room in my garage. I have a mini split in the room but I seldom use it. Goldenrod inside the safe. I’ve never had a problem with contents but I do have a rust spot on the outside of the safe. Looks like rust may have began under the paint and popped the paint up