Where to start?

[CAWright]

Hello everyone! I've worn this site out over the last few years reading through post, pictures and taking ideas. I originally planned on putting a shop on my 6 acres, but the flattest spot catches a lot of drainage/water and is about 75 yards from the house.

I'm kicking around the idea of actually building an oversized front load 3 car garage off the opening to my existing side load 2 garage and converting the old 2 car into living space. At the same time I would build a 2 car garage/shop behind and attached to the new 3 car with a rear garage door allowing a pass through front the front to back yard.

This should do 4 thing's:
1) Help with curb appeal by stretching and balancing my home out rather than the narrow front to back look now.
2) Help the odd turn that we're having to do to get in and out of the side load garage.
3) Give me 3 full spaces to park indoors whether it be a boat, full size truck or SUV
4) Give me 2 additional spots for parking or hobbies, while keeping my home from looking like it's all garage and no living space.

My question is... where do I start? Should I take my idea and sketches to and architect or work with some sort of engineer to determine what can and can't be done in relation to my existing home. I've spoken and shown a few General Contractor's what I'm wanting to do, and none said it would be overly complicated, but they also said they were too busy to take-on the project or provide a quote.

 

[Farrier]

I'm always telling myself this...... KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid.

It's way to easy to over think if you're a thinker

 

[ssdave]

I'd take it to a house designer/draftsman first, and work out any ideas, and go to full plans if the ideas work out. Only if it needs an architect or engineer would I go to a professional. Most building work needs good planning, not architecture or engineering expertise. A lot of house designers are more versed in residential construction, faster, and less expensive than architects. Often, the clarity in plans and good, cost effective design that a good house drafter can provide allows the contractors bidding the project to give a better bid, that may save you the entire cost of the fees over you doing the plans yourself.

Just for perspective on this advice, I am a licensed engineer and have done this for 30 years. I always tell clients to pay me for professional services that I can provide cost effectively, not services that they can get at a much lower expertise and cost elsewhere.

 

[Cyberbear]

I used to work for a contractor that specialized in remodeling projects. As their in house draftsman I used to turn rough sketches into workable plans we'd submit to our sub-contractors. Often times prospective customers would ask for actual plans they could look at before deciding whether to build or not, at a reasonable price. If you did likewise, you'd have a set of drawings to take around and show contractors in your area.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd start by taking some pictures of the house, garage and layout of the land. Then take some measurements, buy some graph paper and try to lay out what you want. Make sure it'll fit the way you want before you pay somebody to tell you that.

Once you know it fits, I'd try to draw up some basic floor plans and sketches of what you want and then take them to somebody for the drawing of proper plans.


Before you get too far into the project and shell out serious cash, you need to visit your local AHJ, code office, or building dept and inquire about the build. If you're converting garage space into living space you might tread on a septic issue (not sure where you live). Some places require you to upgrade you septic size if you add living space....more people/more waste. Just stop by, inquire with in, and talk to the people you need to (those in the know) to find out a few things first.

 

[sberry]

List your location to start with.

 

[bczygan]

Hello everyone! I've worn this site out over the last few years reading through post, pictures and taking ideas. I originally planned on putting a shop on my 6 acres, but the flattest spot catches a lot of drainage/water and is about 75 yards from the house.

I'm kicking around the idea of actually building an oversized front load 3 car garage off the opening to my existing side load 2 garage and converting the old 2 car into living space. At the same time I would build a 2 car garage/shop behind and attached to the new 3 car with a rear garage door allowing a pass through front the front to back yard.

This should do 4 thing's:
1) Help with curb appeal by stretching and balancing my home out rather than the narrow front to back look now.
2) Help the odd turn that we're having to do to get in and out of the side load garage.
3) Give me 3 full spaces to park indoors whether it be a boat, full size truck or SUV
4) Give me 2 additional spots for parking or hobbies, while keeping my home from looking like it's all garage and no living space.

My question is... where do I start? Should I take my idea and sketches to and architect or work with some sort of engineer to determine what can and can't be done in relation to my existing home. I've spoken and shown a few General Contractor's what I'm wanting to do, and none said it would be overly complicated, but they also said they were too busy to take-on the project or provide a quote.

Welcome to GJ!

Please put your location in your profile.

We have a number of design and planning professionals here on GJ who would love to give you advice. So post some photos, a mortgage survey of the property, a list of the functions you want to accommodate and your zoning restrictions or your AHJ and address so we can determine your zoning and the restrictions. Any easements on your survey or legal description would also help.

This is where you start.

Do you have a HOA? Are garage doors required to not face the street?

Bill

 

[CAWright]

Thanks for the quick response everyone!

ssdave & Cyberbear great ideas to track down a designer or drafter.

NUTTSGT I actually have a packet put together with sketches on draft paper and downloaded ideas of what I'm looking to do. I didn't think about the septic, but I don't think that'll be an issue due to the fact that most of that was overbuilt by the previous owner with anticipation of additional space being added. I'll certainly verify that though.

sberry I'm in Lakeland, TN a suburb outside Memphis.

bczygan as previously stated I'm on 6 acres so I've got room to spread out and don't have to contend with an HOA or which way my garage faces. The city won't allow a structure in front of my house which I believe is common. I can apply for an exception to that, but I don't think that'll be necessary unless I decided to do a standalone to the side of my large front yard. I'll try to get some of my photos and designs posted, but in the meantime if there is a designer/drafter looked to assist please contact me.

Thanks again everyone!

 

[bczygan]

Thanks for the quick response everyone!

ssdave & Cyberbear great ideas to track down a designer or drafter.

NUTTSGT I actually have a packet put together with sketches on draft paper and downloaded ideas of what I'm looking to do. I didn't think about the septic, but I don't think that'll be an issue due to the fact that most of that was overbuilt by the previous owner with anticipation of additional space being added. I'll certainly verify that though.

sberry I'm in Lakeland, TN a suburb outside Memphis.

bczygan as previously stated I'm on 6 acres so I've got room to spread out and don't have to contend with an HOA or which way my garage faces. The city won't allow a structure in front of my house which I believe is common. I can apply for an exception to that, but I don't think that'll be necessary unless I decided to do a standalone to the side of my large front yard. I'll try to get some of my photos and designs posted, but in the meantime if there is a designer/drafter looked to assist please contact me.

Thanks again everyone!

As mentioned above, if you will provide the info I mentioned, we can help.

So post some photos, a mortgage survey of the property, a list of the functions you want to accommodate and your zoning restrictions or your AHJ and address so we can determine your zoning and the restrictions. Any easements on your survey or legal description would also help.

This is where you start.

I'm an Architectural Designer (retired)

First thing is zoning

 

[CAWright]

I'm not sure if these photos will upload, but I'm going to give it a shot. My thought is to use something like "plan 002D-6044" and attach one end where the garage door currently sits. Then attach "plan 059D-6023" to the back side of the new 3 car garage.

http://houseplansandmore.com/projectplans/projectplan002D-6044.aspx

http://houseplansandmore.com/projectplans/projectplan059D-6023.aspx

Disregard the marking's on the existing floor plan for the living space. That's a print I used to turn into code enforcement when I built out my 900 sqft upstairs. The highlighted area is what I'm looking to add now for the garage and shop.

Here's the county web-site and my parcel id is L0140 00090 which should allow you to see the specifics on my home and zoning.
http://www.assessor.shelby.tn.us/content.aspx?key=PropertySearch

 

[Sasquatch912]

Come up with a budget first.

 

[CAWright]

$40k is my budget

 

[Sasquatch912]

Well that should get a lot done. My metal building costed me $9400. 30x50. 30x30 of it enclosed. $2300 for 900 sq ft of 6" fiber mesh 3000 psi concrete. $500 in rebar.

 

[ssdave]

You'll be tight at the 40,000 to match the house architecturally, but I think it can be done. I'd highly recommend matching the house with roof and siding materials. You'll end up replacing a lot of the existing garage roof with a new gable that overlays that roof.

I'd start with drawing elevation views of the north and east and south, and figure out how you want your gables and how high they will be. Also, determine how high you want the new addition to be inside, and where your rafter tails will come out for height.

Stitching all the roofs together into a coherent whole on this one will be a challenge. You don't want the new addition to end up higher than the old, and you want similar roof pitches and rafter tail elevations. Your breaking up the addition into a gable perpendicular to the old garage roof, and then a second gable to the south off of the one will make the roof easier to match for elevations at the peak. Keeping the roof pitch to match the old roof, and the elevation of the tails and the peak will determine how big your additions are; then the decision point will come in what pieces do you modify (addition size, roof tail elevations, peak elevations, pitch) to make it all come together. My preference in this case would be to keep the roof pitches the same as the house, and to have the new roof either equal to, or a couple feet lower than the existing garage and house peak. Be cognizant of how the roof pitches will dump water off also, and where the valleys discharge to. You may end up with a water problem between the garage and house on the south/west side.

 

[CAWright]

You'll be tight at the 40,000 to match the house architecturally, but I think it can be done. I'd highly recommend matching the house with roof and siding materials. You'll end up replacing a lot of the existing garage roof with a new gable that overlays that roof.

I'd start with drawing elevation views of the north and east and south, and figure out how you want your gables and how high they will be. Also, determine how high you want the new addition to be inside, and where your rafter tails will come out for height.

Stitching all the roofs together into a coherent whole on this one will be a challenge. You don't want the new addition to end up higher than the old, and you want similar roof pitches and rafter tail elevations. Your breaking up the addition into a gable perpendicular to the old garage roof, and then a second gable to the south off of the one will make the roof easier to match for elevations at the peak. Keeping the roof pitch to match the old roof, and the elevation of the tails and the peak will determine how big your additions are; then the decision point will come in what pieces do you modify (addition size, roof tail elevations, peak elevations, pitch) to make it all come together. My preference in this case would be to keep the roof pitches the same as the house, and to have the new roof either equal to, or a couple feet lower than the existing garage and house peak. Be cognizant of how the roof pitches will dump water off also, and where the valleys discharge to. You may end up with a water problem between the garage and house on the south/west side.

I agree in keeping the pitches the same, my challenge is my existing garage is only 21.5' from the West (left) to East (right) inside wall and is very cramped for a full size vehicle or a boat. My thought on the new 3 car garage would be to straighten/flatten the pitch slightly to accommodate the a 24'+ depth. Very similar to what they did on my two major E to W & N to S existing pitches. The main part of the house is significantly wider than the garage portion, but it all flows because they lined the peaks up. I would have the same done on the new 3 car peak, then utilize a lower tie-in (maybe midway) for the 2 car peak, which will be on the back side of the home, again hiding this portion from the street. The attached photos aren't great, but this shows the existing roof lines and where the house sits in relation to my property lines.

My hope would be to get 9'+ ceiling in the main 3 car garage and possibly even vault a portion of the 2 car garage.

Great points about the drain, I think I'll be in good shape if planned right due to the fact that the back part of the house naturally slopes and I should be able to channel the drainage.

 

[CAWright]

As mentioned above, if you will provide the info I mentioned, we can help.

So post some photos, a mortgage survey of the property, a list of the functions you want to accommodate and your zoning restrictions or your AHJ and address so we can determine your zoning and the restrictions. Any easements on your survey or legal description would also help.

This is where you start.

I'm an Architectural Designer (retired)

First thing is zoning

I've posted what you asked. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[AZ Pete]

What is the set back requirement on the garage side? Looks like you will be crowding the property line.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[CAWright]

What is the set back requirement on the garage side? Looks like you will be crowding the property line.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I checked on this when I bought the property, but am verifying that with the city now. I believe it was 5', but I'm trying to stay closer to 10' from the property line.

 

[gahrajmahal]

Since it looks to be close to the property line I ask myself if you had a staked property line done when purchasing the property. If not, you might get a surprise when you have one done.

 

[bczygan]

Have you checked the wetlands maps?

What distances are required from the pond?

What are utility locations? Septic?

What other plans do you have for the rest of the property?

 

[CAWright]

I just found out that my particular area of the city was involved in a fight 20-30 years ago with zoning and I'm listed as AG. I can probably get it rezoned with a hearing to be able to work under tighter easements, but as it stands I'm 50' from the front and back of the property and 25' from the sides.

Good news is there are no size restrictions, structure restrictions, no limitations for a pole barn, metal building, etc. and I don't have to match my house if I don't want to.

Guess I'm full speed ahead to plan D and will start getting estimates on a big ars pole barn or stick building built on a hill behind the house...

 

[bczygan]

I just found out that my particular area of the city was involved in a fight 20-30 years ago with zoning and I'm listed as AG. I can probably get it rezoned with a hearing to be able to work under tighter easements, but as it stands I'm 50' from the front and back of the property and 25' from the sides.

Good news is there are no size restrictions, structure restrictions, no limitations for a pole barn, metal building, etc. and I don't have to match my house if I don't want to.

Guess I'm full speed ahead to plan D and will start getting estimates on a big ars pole barn or stick building built on a hill behind the house...

Very cool!

AG gives you a lot more freedom!

Bill

 

[rburke65]

I am of the thought that you will get more bang for your buck....now that you are free of most restrictions......by building a seperate structure. I am fortunate to have both a pole barn and a stick built (on a pole foundation) and if you even have a vague notion of finishing the interior, you may as well stick build it. Build it bigger than you think you need. Good luck. We're here if you need us!

 

[CAWright]

Your thoughts on having a split level garage/shops? Basically two building's tied into each other but the 30x40's foundation being 2'-3' lower since I'm installing on a hill. This will help accommodate an 8' ceiling on the (front) 24x24 section, then a 12' ceiling on the (back) 30x40 section and only put the back roofline 2'-3' higher than the front. I'm trying to accomplish two things with this/these additions. 1. Add me a covered parking space for my daily driver which is a full size truck, then covered parking for my hobby toy that also gets driven weekly. 2. Add a garage/shop that will offer one bay for a lift and another 2 for projects to reside and/or be worked on without being cramped.

We'll be adding a pool in the next couple of months so I'd like to position the back of the garage to accommodate a 15' x 15' covered outdoor space. Once the pool, garage and shop is in place the last thing will be to rip up some of the existing deck and add new deck to wrap around the back of the house.

What am I overlooking to be able to make this work?

 

[ard]

I like the use of the space, and using the garage to also serve as a covered area for the pool (refridge, BBQ, toilet perhaps?) is nice.

One thing- it is right in you backyard and you will be living in direct contact- the rooflines, architectural detailing, proportions should all work in concert with the house. Dont get too 'stuck' on what you have- rather lets someone work with it to create a structure that complements how it is viewed.

FYI- seems like a LOT of driveway, plus if it 'steps' down the hill you will need to address that. Perhaps double wide access to the smaller 'garage', then a lower driveway to the far end of the 'shop'?

Looks like fun!