Which Bolts/Screws?

[GMJim]

I looked around the journal but couldn't find much on what I need so I figured I would ask here. I'm hanging a heavy 11 foot gate on a 6x6 pressure treated post. My hinges are home made and have a 1/4" thick 4X6 inch steel plate that I want to bolt to the post. Thinking about using galvanized 5/16" or 3/8" lag bolts but was looking at Simpson Strong-tie screws. They seem to have a deeper thread that cuts deeper and looks like it would hold better but I've never used them. Does anyone here have any experience with these bolts/screws or have any better ideas to fasten the plates/hinges to the post? I don't want to use carriage bolts (through bolts).
Thanks
Jim

 

[turbowoodworker]

Lag bolts +heavy gate+motion+ wood =failure.
Through bolts are the only way to go IMO. And not carriage bolts but bolts with adequate washers or even a plate to distribute stress on post away from holes.

 

[MOwens]

I would also recommend through bolts and if you want a smooth head on one side of the post get carriage bolts.

 

[gahrajmahal]

I’ve used the Simpson screws on my deck. It’s a code thing. A screw, Simpson or lag whatever will never hold as reliably as a through bolt. I’d just try the lag bolts, then when they strip out you can drill through and use the carriage bolts and washers.

 

[Joemctag]

Through-bolt . Need hot-dipped galvanized (not just plated) or stainless for p.t. woodI like to use washers under carriage bolt heads. Have to use a size larger for the square part of the bolt head. I'd be mostly concerned whether the post can hold the gate without leaning o er. Maybe make it so when it's closed the end of the gate is supported. Good Luck.

 

[GMJim]

Thanks for the replies. The only time the weight will pull on the bolts is when the gate is opened. When the gate is closed the bolts will be under shear load. The steel plates the hinges are welded to that are being bolted to post are 1/4 inch thick 4X6 inches with 6 - 5/16 or 3/8 bolts. Drilling a straight hole through a 6X6 post expecting to come out the other side where you want without a drill press isn't easy. The post is already installed. I was hoping 12 bolts would do the job. I'm going to have to think about the a little more.

 

[CraigStu]

You can always run in lag bolts or screws and monitor for separation. If you have to go to bolts and nuts later all you lost is $10 or so.

 

[APEowner]

I'd use TimberLok structural wood screws. In the unlikely event that they don't hold you can always switch to a through bolt of some sort but I've never seen one loosen up.

 

[Marctrees]

Consider 3/8" GRK RSS screws rather than old style lag screws.

They drive in like butta w no pre drilling w a decent drill.1/2 drill for

Iv'e used a plug in Milwaukee for around 800 of them in a retaining wall.

Check the website data for pull out strengths, etc.

https://www.grkfasteners.com/getatt...0a0-8be3-f68373c97375/RSS-Product-Information

Marc

 

[nadogail]

I have found that those who plan to only meet the minimum requirements for fasteners are usually planning for eventual failure.

Go Big, or Go Back to the Drawing Board.

 

[Copymutt]

Not knowing how heavy is “heavy”, you may need to brace build the hinge posts. Consists of a second post and X brace between them. Through bolt for sure. Through bolt makes adjustment super easy, almost no chance of splitting the wood & no pull out.

 

[GMJim]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. The reason I wanted to use a lag bolt style (Timberlok or GRK) was because I didn't have a way to make sure I could drill 6 holes per hinge in a 6X6 straight. The through bolt idea won't look as nice on the other side of the post but I don't want issues later. I went out and bought a drill guide to drill the holes straight and will use galvanized bolts. To answer the heavy weight question the gate when finished is estimated at about 200 lbs. The metal frame is 1-1/2 X 1-1/2 .093 wall square tubing at 140 pounds and is 11' 3" wide X 4' 9" high and will be faced with 23- 1X6 cedar fence boards and that should add about 40 to 50 pounds. I've seen many wide wooden gates and they all have fallen apart and sagged so I went with a metal frame.
Thanks again for all the suggestions. It helps with the decision!

 

[Citation]

Are you bolting to the side of the post that faces the gate or the side that is parallel to the face of the gate. Many farmers hang gates with J bolts that are screwed into fence posts but those screws are mostly in tension/compression, not sheer like a bolt going through the face of a gate or post face that is parallel to the gate.

Think farm fence gate vs garden gate.

 

[no704]

Sounds like you already have a drill guide. Was going to suggest using a cheep latch bolt guide for door hardware. You could also use T nuts on the backside if you don’t want stuff poking thru

 

[GMJim]

The J bolts are attached to the gate. I made hinges for the J bolt to drop into. The hinge is made of 1-1/4 OD, 3/4 ID DOM 1/4 inch wall thickness and they are parallel with the gate.

 

[GMJim]

Sounds like you already have a drill guide. Was going to suggest using a cheep latch bolt guide for door hardware. You could also use T nuts on the backside if you don’t want stuff poking thru

T nuts are a great Idea. I'll consider them. Thanks!

 

[carlgrover]

I would try to mortise the hinges into the wood like on a typical house door. Then you won't have to worry as much about what size/strength screws to use.

carl

 

[SundayFunday]

To answer the heavy weight question the gate when finished is estimated at about 200 lbs. The metal frame is 1-1/2 X 1-1/2 .093 wall square tubing at 140 pounds and is 11' 3" wide X 4' 9" high and will be faced with 23- 1X6 cedar fence boards and that should add about 40 to 50 pounds. I've seen many wide wooden gates and they all have fallen apart and sagged so I went with a metal frame.

Sounds similar to the gate I built 15 years ago. The city didn't want to give me a permit for one wide gate because "they never work". Once I showed them my plans, they grudgingly allowed it. Now they use mine as an example for people that want wide gates!
If possible, add some adjustability to your hinges just in case there is a small bit of sag or frost heaves.
My gate is 14.5 feet wide and sagged about an inch at the latch side the first year, but hasn't moved since then.

 

[RogueFab]

I didn't read all the replies, but when I get into these situations, I drill all the way through the wood and use bolts with nuts. Usually with a steel backing plate so I am not going to just smash the wood with the bolted member. Then you basically have a steel plate sandwich with wood in the middle. Make sense?

 

[GMJim]

Thanks everyone. I took the advice of most of the replies and bought a drill guide to drill 6 holes per hinge with a 1/4" 4X6 plate on the back side of the post and used 6 Carriage bolts for each hinge. It's solid!