Which breaker bar?

[madvladcivic]

I am looking for a 3/8in breaker bar to add to my tool chest.

Have looked at Craftsman 44363 (10in), Harbor Freight (17in)
and various other manufacturers offering 3/8in bbars in the
9-10in length. Michigan Industrial Tools offers a 3/8in bbar
at 12in. Lowe's offers a 3/8in Kobalt but I can find no info
on the length. Effective lever arm would be approx .75in
less than the adverted length.

My application clearance is about 12in.

Thanks.

MVC

 

[mrshaun]

I have found with 3/8 that sometimes you need a long one to get the job done.
Snap on only has the FHBB12 for anything over 10 inches long.
it runs about 72 bucks though.
might go with the MIT 12inch if they have a lifetime warranty.

 

[GTO]

I would not want to put any force on a HF breaker bar.
Spend the money on a quality piece.
Good Luck

 

[autoace]

I have a Taiwan/Harbor Freight 3/8 drive,17 inch breaker bar, I bought it due to the longer length, I have other 12 inch long USA ones................The HF one seems good. I have really given it some torque, and is well made.

mileage may vary.

 

[autoace]

I would not want to put any force on a HF breaker bar.
Spend the money on a quality piece.
Good Luck

The longest "pro tool" 3/8 drive breaker bar is about 13 inches, and HF offer a longer one that lasts I wish the high end companies offered a longer 3/8 breaker bar, maybe they are afraid the longer length would break the "badass" brand LOL.......................

 

[Doctor B]

Use a long 1/2" breakover and a 1/2-to-3/8 converter. If you need a longer bar for more leverage it only makes sense to increase the drive size.

 

[t100]

I've abused a HF 1/2 breaker bar by standing on it with a 3 foot cheater(floor jack handle). my weight was at least 170lbs x 3foot, that's over 500 ftlbs of torque. it held up just fine.

I was working on a leaf spring hanger bolt rusted solid with the spring bushing.

 

[autoace]

Use a long 1/2" breakover and a 1/2-to-3/8 converter. If you need a longer bar for more leverage it only makes sense to increase the drive size.

I agree with you, unless the larger size does not fit.

 

[wellstig1]

I have never understood the need for breaker bars. Just seems like a pain with the limited positioning.

 

[Stick Figure]

One of the guys at work has a HF bar, and i picked one up to use on a project at my dads a while back ... i've never seen a problem w/ either. Now that said, my favorite breaker bar is the Matco. I don't have the 3/8's but the 1/2 i have i would pick any time over anything else i have seen.

 

[madvladcivic]

Use a long 1/2" breakover and a 1/2-to-3/8 converter. If you need a longer bar for more leverage it only makes sense to increase the drive size.

Hi,

I have a 1/2in to 3/8in stepdown adaptor.

The current application involves a ****** drain plug into which a
3/8in ratchet driver inserts directly; no socket required. It would
appear that a 1/2in ratchet driver would work where the 3/8in
driver has not; however, if the male portion of the adaptor
shears off due to whatever--poor workmanship, bad materials,
excessive overtorquing, etc.--the drain plug will have to be drilled.
I am exercising a little more caution that I would say where a
socket was fitted. The 3/8 ratchet has effective lever arm of
6.75in and the 1/2 ratchet of 8.75in. The ideal 3/8in breaker
bar would have effective lever arm of approx 2* the 3/8in ratchet.

 

[fordbroncodave]

a snap on one will out live you.

 

[TAMPAGT07]

I have never understood the need for breaker bars. Just seems like a pain with the limited positioning.

You serious??? I could not live with out my 1/2 " breaker bars.

 

[kizer]

Why breaker bars? Because its easier to beat the tar out of one of those than to break your rachets. Also have you ever had a rachet spin free and smack the heck out of something because of it? I nearly broke my knuckles when one came loose and I literally punched a concrete floor.

I normally use a breaker bar and a Hi-LIft jack handle. Its like 3 feet long. Never met a bolt I couldn't break loose or simply break.

 

[yogitech]

You could always step up to the $40 Northern tool 3/4" drive 40" long breaker bar.. But, then I guess you would have the opposite problem...lol

 

[Doctor B]

Hi,

I have a 1/2in to 3/8in stepdown adaptor.

The current application involves a ****** drain plug into which a
3/8in ratchet driver inserts directly; no socket required. It would
appear that a 1/2in ratchet driver would work where the 3/8in
driver has not; however, if the male portion of the adaptor
shears off due to whatever--poor workmanship, bad materials,
excessive overtorquing, etc.--the drain plug will have to be drilled.
I am exercising a little more caution that I would say where a
socket was fitted. The 3/8 ratchet has effective lever arm of
6.75in and the 1/2 ratchet of 8.75in. The ideal 3/8in breaker
bar would have effective lever arm of approx 2* the 3/8in ratchet.

The Accord has a ****** drain plug like that, and I've accessed it many times on my car. I really wouldn't be afraid of using the adapter in that situation. Firstly, the case is aluminum and you really don't want to put too much torque on the plug to tighten it up. That being said, sometimes the plug can seize. Even if that were to occur, I don't think the adapter would fail by shearing at the male portion. Most of the time the female side snaps open when the adapter fails.

I use a Wright 3/8" breaker most of the time to get that plug out. It's short enough to have plenty of access. If the plug is stuck, I give it a couple pops with a rubber mallet. Bingo.

 

[Stick Figure]

adapter is the wrong tool for the job, it may work, but still isn't right. You technically want to find a Male Pipe Plug Socket. It won't have the ball so it will be a LOT stronger than the adapter.

 

[Homoudont]

I just happened to break a Harbor Freight 1/2 breaker bar trying to wrestle a hub nut off. I broke this off probably less then 2 hours ago.. promptly went to the local Sears and grabbed a 3/4 breaker bar and socket and quickly got the nut off on the first try. Pictures of the harbor freight 1/2 breaker is shown. As well as my new 3/4 Craftsman Slide bar.

 

[Packard V8]

I have never understood the need for breaker bars.

Naturally, I don't know wellstig1's profession. However, it has been my experience techs who work on late model/imports who don't get breaker bars. I know one who goes for days just using air ratchets and wiggler sockets. He seldom touches a ratchet, much less a breaker bar.

Those of us who work on old stuff/big stuff are reaching for the breaker bar every day. I do recommend using the correct size drive tool instead of an adapter or a cheater bar.

VLAD, Here's one thought for you on removing your stuck plug. Try an impact gun with the power turned down. Lean on it hard, pushing into the plug and let the impact rattle it loose for you.

thnx, jack vines

 

[lipadj46]

I have the 1/2" HF breaker bar and for the $10 or whatever it cost it has held up fine. I really tested it removing the head bolts on my land rover. I had to put a 5 foot piece of pipe for some of the bolts and really put my back into it. I'm sure a US model is better and I will buy one someday but so far it has served me well. I will probably end up buying the 40" 3/4" dive Northern tool bar to get off axle nuts as I'm sure it I tried with the 1/2" HF bar with a cheater pipe I would snap it.

 

[DanCo]

I have the Kolbat from Lowes, it's about 11" or 12", I could measure it tomorrow, when I get into the shop

 

[nolatoolguy]

I would not want to put any force on a HF breaker bar.
Spend the money on a quality piece.
Good Luck

I totally agree with GTO, get a good one. Dont buy a cheap one made in china.

 

[wellstig1]

Pretty much all I work on is heavy duty trucks. I now work on big diesel driven pumps. i have 24in snap on dual 80 that has served that purpose for for me

 

[mkirkpatrick]

I lost my 1/2 breaker bar, had to remove a rear spindle nut, ended up using a 1/2 t bar on the 32mm socket and a 4 foot piece of pipe, came off like butta. I need to get a couple breaker bars though.

 

[Homoudont]

I am slowly replacing my HF breaker bars with SEars craftsman breaker bars. Their not terribly expensive and I'm just a home DIYer so it's not a huge hassle to run to Sears to get a new one if it breaks. HF on the other hand is 45 minutes away and just to much of a hassle to deal with in terms of warranty.

 

[Ross]

I have had good luck with several different Toptul breaker bars in both 3/8 and 1/2. They were pretty inexpensive and have taken a bunch of abuse.

 

[madvladcivic]

The Accord has a ****** drain plug like that, and I've accessed it many times on my car. I really wouldn't be afraid of using the adapter in that situation. Firstly, the case is aluminum and you really don't want to put too much torque on the plug to tighten it up. That being said, sometimes the plug can seize. Even if that were to occur, I don't think the adapter would fail by shearing at the male portion. Most of the time the female side snaps open when the adapter fails.

I use a Wright 3/8" breaker most of the time to get that plug out. It's short enough to have plenty of access. If the plug is stuck, I give it a couple pops with a rubber mallet. Bingo.

Hi,

Do you have a part # for that Wright bbar? How short is "short"?
My thinking has been that effective lever length of 9-10in may be
too short.

You hit the drain plug directly w/ a rubber mallet? I attempted
to introduce some PBBlaster again last night but the combination
of the crush washer mating and the raised metal semi-circular
arc around the plug area make it difficult. I tapped on it as
PB was foaming from three sides w/ a pair of Channellocks.

Thanks.

 

[madvladcivic]

I have the Kolbat from Lowes, it's about 11" or 12", I could measure it tomorrow, when I get into the shop

Is it Kobalt 22802? I found out that its effective length is about
9in.

Thanks though.

 

[c.troutman]

The problem with using 1/2 to 3/8 reducer on a possibly seized drainplug, is the head of the reducer/adaptor is NOT solid on any of the manufacturers, they are cast formed with a spring load 'bb' (for lack of a better term), they will break easily in just about every case, you're adding length as well, with the male part of the reducer being the weakest part.

 

[Gareth68]

http://www.tooltopia.com/sk-hand-to...utm_term=SKT41242&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u

 

[Doctor B]

Hi,

Do you have a part # for that Wright bbar? How short is "short"?
My thinking has been that effective lever length of 9-10in may be
too short.

You hit the drain plug directly w/ a rubber mallet? I attempted
to introduce some PBBlaster again last night but the combination
of the crush washer mating and the raised metal semi-circular
arc around the plug area make it difficult. I tapped on it as
PB was foaming from three sides w/ a pair of Channellocks.

Thanks.

The breaker is a Wright 3435. I got it on eBay 3 or 4 years ago brand new for $4. It's one of my favorite tools. I put the drive into the plug directly and use either a rubber mallet or a piece of a 2x4 to strike the breakover to break the plug loose. It seems to work pretty well for me.

 

[MarcSeattle]

I am looking for a 3/8in breaker bar to add to my tool chest.

Have looked at Craftsman 44363 (10in), Harbor Freight (17in)
and various other manufacturers offering 3/8in bbars in the
9-10in length. Michigan Industrial Tools offers a 3/8in bbar
at 12in. Lowe's offers a 3/8in Kobalt but I can find no info
on the length. Effective lever arm would be approx .75in
less than the adverted length.

My application clearance is about 12in.

Thanks.

MVC

Limited to 12 inches? I'm a big fan of Facom ratchets. Smooth action and beautiful construction. They make a 3/8 breaker bar that is 10" -- the number is J.140A. It's available at Ultimate Garage. The owner is a member of this forum (Ultgar I think). Maybe he'll give you a discount. Facom is pretty spendy but quality. Here are the specs on the handle:

http://www.tracepartsonline.net/(S(...10-09032007-097259&descr=J.140A Hinged handle

 

[t100]

question for Chad and fellow truck tool dealers,

what about those Genius Tool(Taiwan) breaker bars? how is the feedback from real life mechanics who use them frequently.

 

[madvladcivic]

Gearwrench 81221 is a 3/8in breaker bar w/ an effective length
of about 11in. Billed as a 12in bbar. Looks like it has a lifetime
warranty and is available locally at Advance Auto. This might
be the one.

Any comments on the quality of Gearwrench products?

 

[Chadwilliam1]

old thread but i just ordered the 17" HF 3/8. I have All SK breaker bars now but I find the 3/8 to be to short and I want one for my road box full of cheap tools i can afford to loose and that will also prove to be handy.I was using my 1/2 sk with a reducer on it the other day which was a pain because it makes it too long.

 

[Ruger_556]

The longest "pro tool" 3/8 drive breaker bar is about 13 inches, and HF offer a longer one that lasts I wish the high end companies offered a longer 3/8 breaker bar, maybe they are afraid the longer length would break the "badass" brand LOL.......................

I suspect it may be because 3/8 sockets won't take it...

 

[owenst7]

Have you considered putting the plug back in with a small amount of anti seize? What does this thing get torqued to?

 

[nicksnothereman]

I am looking for a 3/8in breaker bar to add to my tool chest.

Have looked at Craftsman 44363 (10in), Harbor Freight (17in)
and various other manufacturers offering 3/8in bbars in the
9-10in length. Michigan Industrial Tools offers a 3/8in bbar
at 12in. Lowe's offers a 3/8in Kobalt but I can find no info
on the length. Effective lever arm would be approx .75in
less than the adverted length.

My application clearance is about 12in.

Thanks.

MVC

Longer the better. Stick to the store (retail) brands because of the warranty. Duralast (autozone) makes decent ones...or they did. All of these are probably fine but depends on torque of what you're trying to get at. 1/2" will always be better if there's room. You seem to bring up numbers which well...not always going to go as planned have to wing it sometimes. Just because a tool "should" work doesn't always mean it's going to, doesn't mean you won't have to step up in size and use a bolt loosener (heat gun or penetrating oil or both).

You can do an shallow cr-v impact set with a long 1/2" breaker bar for less than 30 bucks at harbor freight (probably cheapest at retail with okay quality). Something you should always have if you do anything besides change oil and air filters. Just in case.

 

[Tbirdtc]

I have a Mac 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor it is not a cast one piece it has a removable 3/8 square

I have welded lug nuts to frozen diff plugs worked great . They should be that way to start

 

[wvrailroader]

adapter is the wrong tool for the job, it may work, but still isn't right. You technically want to find a Male Pipe Plug Socket. It won't have the ball so it will be a LOT stronger than the adapter.

^^This.

For a 3/8" pipe plug, go with the Snap On PPM412A pipe plug socket. It really pays off on stubborn drain plugs. Plus it has the advantage that by using it, you aren't screwing up the ends of your adapters or extensions.