Which Cabinet Table Saw?

[coolreed]

I need a new Table Saw. My woodworking skills have progressed enough to where I want to step up to a Cabinet Style Table Saw. Considering a 10", 3 hp, saw in the under $3k range. The issue is which one?

The Saw Stop is a good unit that emphasizes safety, maybe overly so. Reviews are good though and so is the price. The main safety feature may cause operational issues that could be annoying after reading their manual.

Powermatics are incredibly good and probably offer the best quality.

Delta was the standard, but I am not sure they warrant the high price. But a very high quality unit.

Jet has good reviews, but a few hundred more and I have a better one. Who makes Jet? Is it chinese?

Grizzly alot cheaper but offers good value. Are Grizzers made in China?

Steel City offer alot of feature but do not know much about their line except they make saws for Craftsman. Is this Chinese?

Craftsman,....been there done that. Not an option.

Laguna is a very famous line, but I do not know much about them. Where are they made? Deutchland?

Would appreciate some knowledgable advice as this is an important decision for this ol' Cowboy.

 

[woody 73]

I use the powermatic 66 and it is a fantastic saw don't get me wrong you will love it but..If I had to do it over again I would pick up the saw stop because you don't want to ever lose any fingers and or hands in a table saw mishap.

Now one of the GJ members told me the saw stop inventor was going out of his way to make everyone buy his product (in other words push it down the manufactures throat); you can make your own opinions on that subject but me I like my fingers!

 

[SnowHill11]

I run a wood shop in a University, and last summer we switched both of our Powermatic cabinet saws out for the saw stops. I was hesitant at first but after over a year of hard use I can honestly say these are some of the nicest saws I think you will find anywhere, excellent precision, heavy duty, easy to work on. We have (2) of the 10 in, 5 hp, 3 ph with the 52" extension table and fences. These saws can handle ripping 3 in thick oak without bogging down, and when set up with the dado attachment can cut up to 13/16" thick dadoes in one pass. Just knowing the safety is there makes me breathe so much easier. Go Saw Stop, you will not regret it!

 

[rust buster]

The Saw Stop is an amazing piece of equipment, but very pricey. I am super happy with my Grizzly G0691. It has a built in riving knife for safety that moves with the blade (up, down, and tilt). Cost me around $1400. The thing runs really smooth and has tons of power.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3HP-220V-Cabinet-Table-Saw-with-Long-Rails-Riving-Knife/G0691

 

[JASTECH]

I would go with the Laguna TS, it has a riving knife, upgradeable to sliding table and better dust collection (me use O2). I don't know the motor mfg. but the new 5HP version has a Baldor and they both sport top notch trunnion design and it's beefy. With my disability Saw Stop would save me fingers or arms and it's on track with Laguna quality, fit and finish. I wish I could have a Saw Stop, had a contractors 3hp but gave it away free, it might of hurt me bad in my new condition.JMHO

 

[SnowHill11]

Just to add since others have mentioned it, the saw stop also has a riving knife that fully follows the blade that can be installed in place of the traditional riving knife/anti-kickback system to allow partial through cuts or slots but still have the protection of the riving knife. I actually only run the riving knife because I prefer to be able to see the blade at all times. And the trunnion design is holding up very well and it probably gets raised and lowered at least a dozen times a day here in the shop (we require that it be lowered after each person to make sure the next person sets it up properly and isn't left with an exposed blade to accidentally turn on before they are ready). If you can spring it, I would go for it.

 

[JASTECH]

rust buster, Isn't the 690 3hp made in China?

 

[jvitez]

http://www.general.ca/products/1_general/50_tablesaw/650R-T50.html

They're still made in Canada, and a top quality product now updated with a riving knife. A local tool store sells General products, and if I were in the market this is the model I'd buy. It's a lifetime purchase.

 

[rust buster]

rust buster, Isn't the 690 3hp made in China?

I'm pretty sure they are made in Taiwan. I'd love to buy U.S, but when I made the purchase two years ago, my wallet wouldn't allow it

 

[turbowoodworker]

I'm in the same boat, contemplating a larger saw to replace my Delta contractor saw. I have decided on the new model Powermatic (replaces the 66). It has a riving knife (I think all saws made now must have one?? UL listing rquirement??). I'm a Delta guy but the latest Delta is $400 more and not that much more saw.

 

[JASTECH]

rust buster, I think the 5HP version is Taiwan. If I could ever have the extra money I would lean towards used USA or keep saving.

 

[TerryH]

I've had my 1023S Grizzly for 11 years now and I've never done a thing to it other than alignment when I first got it. I'd rather have an American made tools any day but it's really hard to argue with the quality and performance of the Grizz table saws. The newer ones with the riving knives are very nice. Really tempting to get a newer Grizz or go to a Saw Stop but also very hard to justify..even for me...when the tried and true 1023S is working perfectly.

 

[RCStocker]

I run a wood shop in a University, and last summer we switched both of our Powermatic cabinet saws out for the saw stops. I was hesitant at first but after over a year of hard use I can honestly say these are some of the nicest saws I think you will find anywhere, excellent precision, heavy duty, easy to work on. We have (2) of the 10 in, 5 hp, 3 ph with the 52" extension table and fences. These saws can handle ripping 3 in thick oak without bogging down, and when set up with the dado attachment can cut up to 13/16" thick dadoes in one pass. Just knowing the safety is there makes me breathe so much easier. Go Saw Stop, you will not regret it!

The saw stop is a good saw but they way they tryed to force eveyone to install the saw stop on thier products down right pissed me off. I would never buy one for that reason alone.

Powermatic 66, Jet, General or Delta make great saws. You can find almost mint one for under a $1000. I see the on E bay and Craigs list all the time for $800. They are the newer ones with large table and the unifence.

I buy and sell machnery all the time and I have picked them up for as little as $600 in new condition. There are so many shops out of business they they are a dime a dozen in California. I would never buy a new one. Just keep looking and you will find a bargan. I have owned a cabinet shop for 45 years. I am an architect and contractor and we do all our work in house

 

[Mandres]

I think the best value can be found in a new Grizzly or a used Powermatic. $1500 can get you a very nice example of either.

If quality and safety are more important than cost, then you can't go wrong with a SawStop.

 

[balane]

Can somebody enlighten me as to what makes a cabinet saw a cabinet saw? Are there big differences between them and something like a contractor's saw? Is it mostly the extended wing for larger planks of wood?

Is mine a contractor's saw?

.

 

[Aberdale]

I bought a Delta Unisaw with a Biesmeyer fence brand new in 1992. It's been a great saw. Powerful. Accurate. And reliable. I've used it to build cabinets and interior trim for two houses. It's done everything from ripping and sizing 3/4" cabinet grade plywood to making base molding and casings with a molding head cutter.

I've been so impressed with the Unisaw that I bought a second one used on CL that is just like new. My first one cost $1599 new. The CL saw cost me $300 and is every bit as nice. I would check out CL for a like-new Unisaw or Powermatic. They're hard to beat for the price, and often they will come with extras. My CL saw came with a mobile base ($200 option) a Biesmeyer fence, 3 cast iron extensions, and several blades.

Why buy new and take the depreciation hit?

 

[Aberdale]

Can somebody enlighten me as to what makes a cabinet saw a cabinet saw?
.

A cabinet saw is typically heavier and has a fully enclosed cabinet underneath instead of a metal box with legs. Cabinet saws are typically not portable. My Unisaw probably weighs somewhere between 250-400 lbs with extensions and all.

 

[johnnybentwrench]

I have had both Delta uni saw and Powermatic 65 pre dates the 66. I think the saw stop is a great invention. I have worked in many many wood shops and have seen nasty nasty GRUESOME things involving fingers, hands and table saws. I have seen the saw stop at woodworking shows it's very cool and from the people I know who own them the guard is not an issue. Whichever one you pick be careful and never take chances with your hands close to the blade.

The guy who invented the saw stop did not cut any corners they are top notch machines.

 

[pacmktg]

balane,

a cabinet saw normally has a higher HP motor meaning power to not bog down on thicker materials. The trunions are mounted to the cabinet instead of the top, making it easier to align and work on. A cabinet saw has better dust collection if hooked to a dust collector.


bob

 

[Voi]

Can somebody enlighten me as to what makes a cabinet saw a cabinet saw? Are there big differences between them and something like a contractor's saw? Is it mostly the extended wing for larger planks of wood?

Is mine a contractor's saw?

.

Contractor saws don't have the enclosed base and have their motors hanging off the back, both of which make dust collection more difficult. They also have table mounted trunnions which make them more difficult to adjust.

So conversely, a cabinet saw has an enclosed based and cabinet mounted trunnions. Now that hybrid saws are popular another characteristic unique to cabinet saws is "at least" a single phase, 220V, three HP motor.

So yours is a contractors saw, albeit one with a very nice fence, which is not necessarily normal.

To quickly comment on this thread in general, all table saws in the US are now sold with riving knives. If I were shopping for a new saw I'd want the most trouble free and easy to adjust riving knife. I've heard of very few issues with riving knives and most were on less expensive, imported contactor and hybrid type saws. I'd still look into that when shopping for a cabinet saw.

 

[tarbellb]

I own a 1.5HP Steel City (hybrid) Cabinet Saw. It has the granite top and industrial fence. Ended up buying this because it was the floor model AND liquidated priced (read under $700).
That being said, I dont think I would buy another one if found a used Powermatic or had the funds to buy a Saw Stop. Reasons are minor: the granite table is just barely misaligned with the base making for a very slight pinch on fence and blade. And overall build quality is not great.

If your budget doesnt allow a Saw Stop then I would hunt down a used Powermatic or buy a Grizzly new.

 

[camarotoolman]

Unisaw for me, the older the better!

 

[Tarnished]

^^X2 for me. Older Delta's. A 1965 Delta 12-14, and a 1957 Delta Uni. Love um.
IF i were to go new, only logical to go Saw Stop IMHO.

 

[Toolfool]

Unisaw. Look for a used one in good shape. Lots on craigslist.

 

[justanengineer]

+1 on a Unisaw. Solid, smooth, powerful, and they made quite a few very useful attachments for them. If you can find an older (pre ~1980) Unisaw, always ask for any attachments that go with it as Delta didnt charge an arm and leg for them way back when as they do nowadays.

 

[Jim C.]

I like the Delta Unisaw. I have a 1948 and a 2001 (which I got new). They're great machines.

Jim C.

 

[wood02]

I have the PM 66. It was one of the made in McMinnville, Tennessee. I believe Jet bought out Powermatic. I used a Craftsman "Professional 10 inch" for many years. Go around to some of the lumber yards and ask to see some of their equipment...I did...that is why I bought the PM66. I think is weighs about 600 lbs. When I purchased it, I gave about 2300 for it new. I narrowed my purchase down to three saws...PM66 U.S.A, General Canada, and the Delta Unisaw.

 

[kb2tha]

Can somebody enlighten me as to what makes a cabinet saw a cabinet saw? Are there big differences between them and something like a contractor's saw?

Many if not most of the cabinet saws also have 3 drive belts which helps cut down on vibration and gives a better transfer of power. I own 2 Unisaws, a mid 80's and a 1964 model. Both have been great machines.

 

[matouse3]

Anybody have this Grizzly hybrid:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P

Would like to know how you like it if you do. Thanks.

 

[carbon]

I'm no expert at all, but take a look at the sliding table saws from Europe. Like mini-max, hammer (part of Felder/Format, both of which are even more expensive). The K3 winner 31x31 is $3000. I'm amazed they list a price; the bummer with these manufacturers is you usually have to call or email for prices.

 

[sr71]

Well…. when shopping for cabinet saws I’m pretty sure you’ll be happy with whatever you choose - just as soon as you power that blade for the first time !! (I can’t get enough of that sound). I have a 5 year old Delta Unisaw that is excellent (recommend for sure). In the last two years they have made some improvements that I wish I had:
• My only gripe is with the power switch - POS design (this is corrected on the new model)
• big improvement is extending the cast iron table so that there is 15” of table between you and the blade. If you are going to rip 4x8’s you will appreciate this .
• Rifing knife is adjustable without tools
• Blade bevel and height cranks on nicely located on front of cabinet

 

[matouse3]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the insight.

 

[tarbellb]

Let us know what you get! Very interested.