Which calipers - Vernier, Digital, Dial?

[Locker537]

I would like to purchase a set of calipers for general automotive and shop use.

For example of a use, I need to measure the total clutch cable throw on an older gearbox. The spec is 25mm with a 0.5mm tolerance.

Another example is measuring brake rotor thickness, though I know a tool with a larger throat to get around the edge of the caliper is more proper for that.

I know Mitutoyo is very popular. I also know counterfeits are a problem with Mitutoyo. Is this solved by buying ones that are shipped and sold by Amazon?

I know a lot of it is preference, but for a first set, is vernier, dial, or digital preferred? I like vernier for simplicity and lack of battery and electronics, but I imagine the convenience of digital is great, especially while checking tolerances on my back under a car.

 

[kapster]

I'm a machinist by day, I use Mitutoyo digital at work. Can't beat them for precision and durability. However, I wouldn't bother with them at home. I have harbor freight digitals, they're not very good but good enough in the garage.

I also have some Chinese dials at home, they're actually pretty nice but more prone to dirt damage. If your careful with them and are not going to use them much (no battery to die), this would be a good choice.

I've wondered about the Igaging origincal on Amazon, could be worth a try. You get absolute origin like a Mitutoyo on those where any of the cheapos are not absolute.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

 

[American Locomotive]

Vernier calipers are great - but a waste of time, IMO. Yeah they'll always work, but they're annoying for taking a bunch of quick measurements in succession.

Dial Calipers are okay, but as mentioned, they are very sensitive to dirt contamination. You need to be careful with them.

IMO, digital is where it's at these days. The Harbor Freight calipers are okay, but tend to operate a little crunchy, don't seem to be super repeatable and eat batteries. Mitutoyo Digimatics are more or less the industry standard.

You need to be careful with Amazon or E-Bay. Sometimes you might end up with genuine Mitutoyos, sometimes not. MSC and McMaster are listed distributors for Mitutoyo, but tend to run about 20-30% more expensive than others.

 

[Stuey]

I have all three kinds, and I use them all too, but digital is probably the easiest and most convenient for most people and regular use.

I still order some Mitutoyo stuff from Amazon, but am far more likely to order from MSC or Zoro.

 

[GirchyGirchy]

One would think that the ones actually from Amazon would be ok. FWIW, at work we buy our Mitutoyos from McMaster-Carr.

 

[DocsMachine]

Digital, definitely.

If you can get an authentic Mitutoyo, the batteries last literally years. (Especially if you buy good batteries, not $2-a-fistful eBay specials.)

I have three, two 6" and one 12". The 12" came with a battery when I bought it back in 2013, and I have yet to change it. (Don't use it as much.) The two 6"ers have each had a new battery within the last five years, but I can't recall exactly when.

Vernier is too cumbersome to read. You can get faster with practice, of course, but it's like reading a dial-face clock showing military time and having to do the mental convolutions to convert. They're great as a backup, annoying to have to regularly use.

And dials... well, let's just say I have a drawerful of old dials, good big-name stuff, that are unusable because of junk in the mechanism. They'd probably be fine if you're using them in a relatively clean environment (like engine rebuilding, etc.) but in an actual machine shop, especially a manual one like mine, little chips and other junk eventually get in.

Doc.

 

[DocsMachine]

One would think that the ones actually from Amazon would be ok. FWIW, at work we buy our Mitutoyos from McMaster-Carr.

-I was told that Amazon was one of the biggest sources for counterfeits, especially if you go through one of the third-party sellers.

If I ever need another one, I'll likely buy it through McMaster, even if it costs a bit more.

Doc.

 

[4xdog]

As a DIY guy who rarely needs the precision of fine-detail work (it's been a long time since my Starrett and vintage vernier stuff came out to play), I've found a caliper like this plastic one with dial is really quite good. More than sufficient for 0.5 mm precision.

In fact, calling it "plastic", while accurate, sells short the high quality injection molding of the engineering thermoplastic it's made from. Mine is older and made in Switzerland. For all I know they still are.

This basic style is toll-manufactured for a number of brands, including the General branded version shown here from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002E1KHBK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Polymer has the advantage of ensuring the finish of whatever odd "soft" item being measured isn't marred or scratched by steel.

The HF polymer digital version is OK -- I have a couple of those -- but every copy I've had simply EATS batteries, so I end up taking them out after every use, which is kind of frustrating (although they last years that way instead of weeks).

 

[SGKent]

machinists ruler for clutch throw. Micrometer for brake rotors.

 

[zmotorsports]

Vernier's are cheap and easy to obtain but can be a pain to read for multiple measurements and quick glances. I prefer my Starrett dial caliper most of the time but I do occasionally use my Starrett digital as well. Digital calipers are nice in the fact that you can zero out the part and look for variances as well as going back and forth between SAE and Metric when needed, although I typically don't care for tools that require batteries.

I also like Mitutoyo brand measuring tools. Some people have "good" measuring tools for their highly sensitive measurements and then a "knock around" set but I've found to just buy quality ones and take care of them then no need for multiples.

 

[Lassen Forge]

I've had a pretty expensive (in its day) Mitutoyo dial caliper, took care of it, and have used it for 45 or so years, and it's still spot on, fast, accurate, and easy... in short, it's my go to, and was worth every penny. I have a couple Verners, and without glasses, a magnifying glass, and maybe even a jewlers loupe, it's not functional to my now older eyes. Electronics are nice, I tried them, but when the battery goes out, the unit gets wet, the display gets scratched or fogged... not worth it.

If I had to get another one, or needed a different reference standard (say, metric, or .0001 read, or etc.) I'd stick wtih Mitutoyo, and I'd get it from someone like McMaster-Carr or Grainger. And yes, I'd stick with a mechanical dial.

We use HF at school for our "student" stuff, knowing it won't be perfect accurate or last more than a year or 2, but if it breaks, no big deal. We had a couple that held accuracy for about a week and soiled the bed, a couple going strong, and the rest are somewhere between the former and latter... if that's your standard, then you're good. Not saying the good "cheapys" aren't good, just know their limitations, ok?

 

[ddawg16]

I've got the cheap HF digital.

But I'm keeping an eye out for a used analog....don't have to worry about the battery going dead.

I still have an old Simpson 260 VM....there are advantages to analog....

 

[Locker537]

Great comments, thank you thus far!

Understood on the application of a machinist's rule and micrometer as well.

Regarding the digital calipers, seems like Mitutoyo has a bunch of different digital models...

 

[Stuey]

Great comments, thank you thus far!

Understood on the application of a machinist's rule and micrometer as well.

Regarding the digital calipers, seems like Mitutoyo has a bunch of different digital models...

500-196-30 would be a good starting point.

https://ecatalog.mitutoyo.com/ABSOL...clusive-ABSOLUTE-Encode-Technology-C1381.aspx

• 0-6in", 0-150mm
• ±.001in accuracy
• .0005in, 0.01mm LCD resolution

 

[American Locomotive]

-I was told that Amazon was one of the biggest sources for counterfeits, especially if you go through one of the third-party sellers.

If I ever need another one, I'll likely buy it through McMaster, even if it costs a bit more.

Doc.

Yup. Be careful buying from Amazon - make sure it's not a 3rd party seller.

Unfortunately, people now do a "return scam", where they'll buy the real deal, and then return it with a counterfeit in the box. Amazon never checks returns when restocking.

 

[danielbuck]

I go back and forth on preferring digital or dial. There's something I really like about a dial, it seems easier for me to feel or visualize how close or far away I am from whatever I'm shooting for (I'm the same way with analog clock hands). But I'm more likely to miss-read a dial caliper with a quick glance than a digital decimal with a quick glance.

Granted, I'm not a machinist and don't spend all day with measuring devises.

 

[dkmc]

I have both Digital and Dial HF calipers in my full time machine shop. The dials are fine for my daily needs of +/-.002 tolerances. The digital units I have checked against 50 millionths gage blocks, and find them to be very accurate when the gib screws are adjusted properly to remove play in the sliding member. I take the batteries out when not in use, they last much longer that way.
IOW, both types (I find) are plenty accurate for my purposes. BTW I also own Mituotoyo and Starrett measuring instruments that mostly stay in their boxes now days. When (not if) I drop the HF units, and they get damaged, I toss them and open a new box. I keep a few in stock.
I see no reason to use tools that cost 5x as much when the low cost ones are capable of doing the job.

 

[ddawg16]

I have both Digital and Dial HF calipers in my full time machine shop. The dials are fine for my daily needs of +/-.002 tolerances. The digital units I have checked against 50 millionths gage blocks, and find them to be very accurate when the gib screws are adjusted properly to remove play in the sliding member. I take the batteries out when not in use, they last much longer that way.
IOW, both types (I find) are plenty accurate for my purposes. BTW I also own Mituotoyo and Starrett measuring instruments that mostly stay in their boxes now days. When (not if) I drop the HF units, and they get damaged, I toss them and open a new box. I keep a few in stock.
I see no reason to use tools that cost 5x as much when the low cost ones are capable of doing the job.

I know some SO guys who think otherwise......

 

[Citation]

I recommend the large display igaging calipers for something like $25-30 of Amazon. The have a fat battery and last a long time. The have fractions if you care. As for measuring rotors, you can get some spacers that clamp to the jaws. They are under $20 if I recall.

 

[Rickster]

The digital calipers will allow you to switch between inches and mm with the press of a button.

 

[nieuport17]

I don’t use my digital caliper that much so the battery is out.
I use my HF plastic vernier caliper the most for doing wood work or plumbing.
BUT, when I do work on my car, such as rotor thickness, I use the digital caliper.

 

[American Locomotive]

IOW, both types (I find) are plenty accurate for my purposes. BTW I also own Mituotoyo and Starrett measuring instruments that mostly stay in their boxes now days. When (not if) I drop the HF units, and they get damaged, I toss them and open a new box. I keep a few in stock.
I see no reason to use tools that cost 5x as much when the low cost ones are capable of doing the job.

Well, you just said it yourself. You have to constantly take the batteries out of the units to keep them alive. You have to adjust the screws to take the slop out (but half the time when you do that, they start to bind up), then you need to debur the tracks, lube em up, etc...

Don't get me wrong - I have a pair of HF calipers that I use all the time. But some people just want something that works that they don't have to mess with or think about - that's where something like a Mitutoyo comes in.

 

[dkmc]

I don't understand how or why some people can not see things for what they are, and insist in finding fault where there is none. Spin my words any way you want, the HF units are no problem for me.
Taking out and putting in the batteries once a day isn't the dreaded 'task' you make it sound like. It's 10 seconds of 'work'. The gib screws are adjusted once when new, and possibly once every 6 months. No binding up IF you know what you're doing, and I do. No deburring needed, ever. Lube once a year.
And BTW I do these same procedures on my USA Starrett and Japan Mituotoyo calipers and measuring tools as well. If you hate China products. as I suspect you do, just don't buy them for yourself. Knocking them only makes you look like a propaganda publicist.
You may dream on with your fabricated 'problems' if you wish, but don't spin my words into something they are not. Again, NO issues with the HF calipers. Also, the HF digital dial indicator I have is extremely accurate, as tests I performed conclude. It's quite a value at about $27 with the 20% coupon.

Well, you just said it yourself. You have to constantly take the batteries out of the units to keep them alive. You have to adjust the screws to take the slop out (but half the time when you do that, they start to bind up), then you need to debur the tracks, lube em up, etc...

Don't get me wrong - I have a pair of HF calipers that I use all the time. But some people just want something that works that they don't have to mess with or think about - that's where something like a Mitutoyo comes in.

 

[Dentaltec]

As someone that has slipped and fell head first into the can't see jack **** years of his life I suggest you think about what you CAN see.

I have some real nice Starrett dials and I struggle to read them. The digital ones are way more convenient, my go to is Mitutoyo 500-196-30

 

[Robert Haas]

Around my mill the DRO has really detuned my ability to think in anything but digital.

That said my go to caliper is still my trusty dial and I trust it. I own two very nice Japanese digital indicators that cost over $350.00 a piece. They are large display with absolute, not a thing wrong with them in the world, yet for some reason I never really trust them and it is just the old fart in me that always falls back to my analog brain.

If I only had one it would be a dial. I think it makes me a better user by being comfortable and seeing that dial spinning is comforting to me.

My most used dial is a Taiwanese unit I have had since My father passed away some 25 years ago and he bought it back in the 1970's

 

[californiaHank]

Calipers are such a basic, generally useful tool, I'd say buy good ones. My small ones (6"/150mm) are dials, and that's what I prefer. US made Starretts are my favourites. I have 120AM-150 (metric) and 120A-6 (inch) ones. Mitutoyo ones are OK, too. The other major brand is B&S/Tesa. I don't like them as much.

 

[Steve_P]

I have multiple dial calipers in inches - one Mitutoyo and a few HFs. And the HFs are just as accurate. I also have a metric vernier Mitutoyo that was a gift a long time ago. It's fine for the rare time I need metric, but you definitely don't want venier as a primary. I don't have any digital because I just don't have the need. If I was a machinist and did this all day, I could see the need. For home use, I can read a dial just fine, it's accurate to within .001", and I've never had an issue with dirt fouling it up in my environment. If I need more accuracy, I have micrometers.

 

[American Locomotive]

I don't understand how or why some people can not see things for what they are, and insist in finding fault where there is none. Spin my words any way you want, the HF units are no problem for me.
Taking out and putting in the batteries once a day isn't the dreaded 'task' you make it sound like. It's 10 seconds of 'work'. The gib screws are adjusted once when new, and possibly once every 6 months. No binding up IF you know what you're doing, and I do. No deburring needed, ever. Lube once a year.

I do see the HF calipers for what they are. They are a $25 tool, and function and perform like one. For the majority of users, that's perfectly acceptable. But I'm not going to pretend they're anything close to Mitutoyos.

My HF caliper is functional, but it was really rough until I took it apart and de-burred it, it was not repeatable until I adjusted the screws, and I still have to take the battery out of it when I'm not using it. Taking the battery in and out is a hassle, especially If I use it 5-6 times spread out over the span of a day. I don't have a dedicated daily

You said

I see no reason to use tools that cost 5x as much when the low cost ones are capable of doing the job.

...and you answered that yourself. You had to mess around with your calipers to get them to an acceptable state. You have to remove the battery so it doesn't kill them.

I can pull a set of Mitutoyos out of the box, put the battery in, put the caliper on the shelf and then pick it up 2 years later and it'll still be working, still silky smooth, and not even slightly sloppy. That is why people spend the money. They're getting a better made, more reliable tool that they don't have to **** around with to make it work well.

Like I said, my own personal calipers at my house are the HF cheapies. Half the tools in my toolbox are cheap import tools. I defend cheap tools all the time. But I also worked for a machine shop where I used Mitutoyos every day. That's the place that really showed me why high-end tools charge their prices - because they really are better. It's nice pulling something out of the box and it just immediately works perfectly as designed and doesn't need to be messed with.

So once again: For the average homeowner, the HF calipers are perfectly acceptable, but do have some shortcomings compared to more expensive tools.

 

[dkmc]

But I'm not going to pretend they're anything close to Mitutoyos.

I'm not 'pretending' they are either because they are not. Not close in price either, by a mile. They are HF calipers, low cost, and just as accurate as any other brand I've compared them to.

My HF caliper is functional, but it was really rough until I took it apart and de-burred it, it was not repeatable until I adjusted the screws, and I still have to take the battery out of it when I'm not using it. Taking the battery in and out is a hassle, especially If I use it 5-6 times spread out over the span of a day. I don't have a dedicated daily

If it was really rough, you messed up at the store. I've found 'rough' ones at the store now & then as well, but I tried out a couple till I found a set that was nice and smooth. Then I bought that set. No issues. I install the battery the first time I use them for any day, and remove it at the end of the day. Your method is tedious and unnecessary. No wonder you're unhappy with your HF tools. All that battery installing and un-installing is wearing you out. I guess.

...and you answered that yourself. You had to mess around with your calipers to get them to an acceptable state. You have to remove the battery so it doesn't kill them.

If what I wrote (not what you spun it into) is too much messing around for you, I can't figure out why you own the HF calipers in the first place. Sounds like it's just so you can complain about them. You've proved you just enjoy bashing HF tools, so there's never going to be any chance you'd consider having reason or common sense enter into the discussion. There are many guys like yourself out there. The Snap-on worshipers is one group. There's no rhyme or reason involved with the discussion. It's all about spending the most dollars for perceived 'value' weather it's there or imagined. Your free to spend your money on any brand you want. But don't try to tell me the low cost brand is inferior when I've proven otherwise. Minor adjustments, not withstanding, and required regardless of what brand or country of origin they are.

 

[American Locomotive]

A quarter of the tools I own are HF, another quarter is tekton, another is gear wrench and finally the last chunk are craftsman sockets. The only "high dollar" tools I own are: 1 SK 90t ratchet, 6 vessel screwdrivers, and a Knipex pliers wrench. I don't care where a tool comes from, I care about performance.

I have no way "bashed" the HF calipers. I pointed out that they have some well documented flaws, and to take them into consideration when purchasing. But, they do work and can be accurate.

You said you see no reason to spend 5x the price for a took that does the same job. My argument was that the 5x cost elimates headaches. By your own admission you have had to sort through calipers to find smooth ones, you have had to adjust the screws, you have to remember to take the battery out at the end of the day (which is why I take the battery out when I'm done using it, because if I use them once, and then get caught up in something else, I'd likely miss my scheduled "battery removal time" at the end of the day).

For a lot of people, that extra $70 for a Mitutoyo, Starrett or a B&S is completely worth it to have a tool that is guarenteed good out of the box, is repeatable (out of the.box), doesn't require any adjustment, and doesn't require any futzing around with batteries before you use it. I totally get and understand it after using Mitutoyos professional everyday. Sometimes it's worth it for something that "just works" whenever you pick it up.

It's up the buyer if they mind futzing around with their tools a bit to save $70. For me right now? I can deal with the HF calipers. When I eventually get my shop setup and start spending more time with machines? I'll be getting Mitutoyos.

 

[Vpick001]

I purchased A Husky digital caliper from HD last year, and it’s worked great for the few times I’ve needed it. It’s sturdy, has a nice case, has an on/off button to save battery life, comes with an extra battery (so, the one already installed in the caliper, plus a spare), and a lifetime warranty. If you’re not using it for a trade, and just need it for diy work, I highly recommend it. For $30 it’s a solid deal.

 

[HenryAZ]

If concerned about fakes from Amazon, buy your Mitutoyo from MSI-Viking Gage with confidence, and competitive pricing.

 

[seber]

I use a B&S dial and Mitutoyo digital. Both have been in use for a long time. I also have a B&S digital in the house. The B&S in the shop is 50 years old and still the most accurate of the three. The digital is seldom used. The dials are just better. But they are both inch so if I need metric I go to the digital which measures in either system. The newer dial is 20 years old and spent 15 of those years in a machine shop. It still holds accuracy to .001. You just need to take care of it.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

I go back and forth on preferring digital or dial. There's something I really like about a dial, it seems easier for me to feel or visualize how close or far away I am from whatever I'm shooting for (I'm the same way with analog clock hands). But I'm more likely to miss-read a dial caliper with a quick glance than a digital decimal with a quick glance.

Granted, I'm not a machinist and don't spend all day with measuring devises.

That's exactly why I like dial as well. I'm just used to it and it "clicks" in my brain.

I have nice digis, but they don't come out unless I'm really wanting something precise...and then I have verniers for super precise. lol.

 

[GirchyGirchy]

-I was told that Amazon was one of the biggest sources for counterfeits, especially if you go through one of the third-party sellers.

That's why I said "actually through Amazon." I meant sold from them, not a 3rd party. Not sure if there's ever been any evidence that a direct Amazon supplied item was counterfeit.

 

[Locker537]

If concerned about fakes from Amazon, buy your Mitutoyo from MSI-Viking Gage with confidence, and competitive pricing.

Thank you for this feedback. I was wondering this myself. I wonder if buying from MSI or direct from Amazon is better?

While the debate of brands is interesting, I already purchased cheap calipers from Home Depot when I needed them that day to measure stuff like rotors, etc, where accuracy is not critical.

I want a set that I can trust and use for more precise work.

 

[bubinga]

Calipers are such a basic, generally useful tool, I'd say buy good ones. My small ones (6"/150mm) are dials, and that's what I prefer. US made Starretts are my favourites. I have 120AM-150 (metric) and 120A-6 (inch) ones. Mitutoyo ones are OK, too. The other major brand is B&S/Tesa. I don't like them as much.

I like the dials better too for some reason.

 

[tdkkart]

These are really nice for knock-around shop use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NJ6DRDG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[davewo]

I prefer a dial face. A dial provides spacial relation. It's the same reason why I prefer an analog clock.

 

[davewo]

That's why I said "actually through Amazon." I meant sold from them, not a 3rd party. Not sure if there's ever been any evidence that a direct Amazon supplied item was counterfeit.

Sold by Amazon, fulfilled by Amazon, I'm not sure there's a guarantee. Unless Amazon investigates all it's sources (which it can't possibly do), counterfeits will get sold. I would just monitor the reviews and buy a set.