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which garage door insulation kit?

mike_s

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Conniptor

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Should be the same except for thickness.

I had an adventure with the stuff. I put some on last year just like Kit #1 (might have been it). Cuts with a bread knife but makes a lot of static-y particles flying around. I then made a hot knife from a sheet metal blade held in vise-grips, heated with a propane torch before each cut, worked a lot better. My doors already had a 1" or so Styrofoam layer from the factory, so there was no flange for the new 2" thickness to snap into. 3M spray glue didn't hold, neither did double sided carpet tape. I used HVAC duct fabric straps screwed to the flanges to hold them in. Very noticeable improvement in temp and sound insulation. The stuff seems like it would be flammable so I would keep welding far away from the doors. I debated covering it with sheetmetal.
 

dw1

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Looking at these two standard metal frame garage door insulation kits at Home Depot. is one that much better than the other?

Kit #1: Owens Corning fiberglass insulation. Say's it's R-8 value

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-Garage-Door-Insulation-Kit-8-Panels-GD01/202257272



Kit #2. Foam kit pre-cut. (lowes has a simlar kit by different name)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...es-Garage-Door-Insulation-Kit-8-pcs/203630159

The first link is a fiberglass piece that has a vinyl back to it, that is what I used on my doors, measure your individual openings on your door and check to make sure they will fit, I have commercial doors and the precut pieces were a little short of filling the opening of my doors, I had a roll of the double bubble type insulation and put it over top these pieces. This uses a 2 piece clip system (held with double faced tape) to fasten to the door, its all included. I actually need one more box of this to finish my one door.
 

NUTTSGT

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Neither as both of them are way over priced.

Buy a couple sheets of some foil faced polyiso and some foil tape. Measure and cut it size yourself.
 

MrBreeze

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dw1

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Neither as both of them are way over priced.

Buy a couple sheets of some foil faced polyiso and some foil tape. Measure and cut it size yourself.
I agree, I happened to get a daily email for special of the day from HD, those kits were $32, I goofed and really needed 4 kits to do my doors, I still need one more, but it will be more $$ than I paid for all three kits.
 

nolimits76

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FYI...


Kit #1 = R8
Kit #2 = R5 (approximately; per website, approx R4 per 1 inch thickness x 1.25" thickness)

That said, you get a little better thermal value with kit #1, but I really prefer the hard look and finish of kit #2. My preference would be kit #2 style with R8+ values. I think the Tuff-R polyiso panels have this available.
 
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mike_s

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garrett1812

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Call the installer of your garage door, if you know it, or the manufacturer. For my door the installer had a kit, where everything was cut to fit specific to the door. Much cleaner look than the universal kits, or cutting myself. Mine was $185 installed. More than a kit or materials, but not bad.
 
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mike_s

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so I just ordered two kits from Lowes. Used the Promo Code in the link you provided and it saved me an extra $20 bucks. THANKS!

Two kits with free shipping + tax was about $96 bucks.


I did the foam board kit from Lowes
http://www.lowes.com/pd_222457-10477-320737___?productId=50244957&pl=1&Ntt=garage+door+insulation

using a coupon from http://renovopower.com/lowes.html

Could it be done cheaper with buying large sheets of rigid insulation? Yes.

I paid for connivence of having a "kit" and delivered to my door.
I liked the tight fit and clean look and light reflecting qualities of the foam over the fiberglass.

 

MrBreeze

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so I just ordered two kits from Lowes. Used the Promo Code in the link you provided and it saved me an extra $20 bucks. THANKS!

Two kits with free shipping + tax was about $96 bucks.

Good choice.
Light weight (so the opener isn't over taxed)
Convenient
Light reflective
Easy to install

The only PIA part is the bits of statically charged styrofoam that gets all over things after trimming the sections to fit. A good shopvac takes care of clean up tho.
 

PhoenixOp

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Gentlemen;

I'm curious, did any of these products affect the weight of the door, thereby affecting the spring. Did anyone have their springs tightened after installing the insulation?

I have 10' X 10' doors and the last time the garage door guy came out we talked about insulating the doors and that it would affect the spring, so they would probably have to be adjusted.

Thanks

Mike
 
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willf650

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Gentlemen;

I'm curious, did any of these products affect the weight of the door, thereby affecting the spring. Did anyone have their springs tightened after installing the insulation?

I have 10' X 10' doors and the last time the garage door guy came out we talked about insulating the doors and that it would affect the spring, so they would probably have to be adjusted.

Thanks

Mike


I'm in the process of installing the foam kit from lowes. I saw this thread and ordered one for each door.

I wouldn't worry about the weight. I doubt the foam kit weighs 5 pounds a kit. It is styrofoam after all.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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senlow

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Don't waste your money on a kit. I used sheets of 1-1/2 inch thick Polyisocyanurate insulation. This is rated at R7.20 per inch thick. I cut the sheets to be a friction fit in the doors. I installed the insulation about 17 years ago, and it is still in great condition. You may want to look for insulation at a local surplus building materials outlet. I bought enough insulation to do both a 16' and an 8' door for under $100. Just be sure to use either Polyisocyanurate or expanded polyurethane. Other materials have far inferior R values. Be sure to rebalance your doors for the added weight. In my experience stronger springs are not usually needed. Just increase the preload on them. Here is some good info on overhead door spring instalation and adjustment: http://truetex.com/garage.htm
 

Strake

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Does anyone have any insulation ideas for insulating the EDGES where the door meets the track vertically top to bottom? Although my doors have a thin vinyl strip that rub against the frame, it still lets cold air pour in and you can even see small gaps, especially at the very bottom.

thoughts for the edge insulation ?
 

St-rider

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Does anyone have any insulation ideas for insulating the EDGES where the door meets the track vertically top to bottom? Although my doors have a thin vinyl strip that rub against the frame, it still lets cold air pour in and you can even see small gaps, especially at the very bottom.

thoughts for the edge insulation ?


I've thought about trying these

http://www.greenhingeofamerica.com/
 

Strake

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AWESOME !!!!! This looks like what would solve my issue. I just checked my 2 garage doors, and sure enough I can push on the insulated panel and close the quarter inch gap with just a little pressure at the hinge area.

Might go ahead and give them a try !!!

Thank you :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Well, much to my disappointment, after speaking with Lester, moments ago, I do NOT have the correct type of hinges to work with his system..... NOT compatible.

Back to the drawing board...
 
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mike_s

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Good choice.
Light weight (so the opener isn't over taxed)
Convenient
Light reflective
Easy to install

The only PIA part is the bits of statically charged styrofoam that gets all over things after trimming the sections to fit. A good shopvac takes care of clean up tho.


I agree on all the above.

As for the weight added to the door, I was surprised how light these were.

It took longer than I expected to install. Prob about 3 hours. But... that's because it order to get a tighter fit I took off the hardware and inserted and reinstalled hardware. My installed screws for example went into the channel about 1", which made it tough on the first panel to get it in. There was a top cross support piece that I also removed for the install. So I've got 100% coverage, or as close to it as you can get.


I have to say I like the "clean look" of the install. The foam pieces have a reflective coating on it.... maybe it reflects heat better, but it will be sure easier to clean than normal foam because it's slick and easy to wipe down.
It also seems to reflect lght well.... my garage seems a tad bit brighter. (maybe it's just my imaginations ).


so I had the heater on and run up to about 65f, which is pretty warm for my garage (24x30 fully insulated, except for door, until now).
It has been about 18f to 35f the last 3 days and I haven't had the heater on since Friday and it's still about 45 to 48 degrees in there. So I think it's helping hold heat better. so I'm happy.


Garage door before the install

attachment.php



first few panels

attachment.php



Final install

attachment.php
 

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NUTTSGT

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Well, much to my disappointment, after speaking with Lester, moments ago, I do NOT have the correct type of hinges to work with his system..... NOT compatible.

Back to the drawing board...

Simple fix. Wood wedge. You'll have to take it out before you open the door.




EDIT: here's a better picture.

 
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sst30399

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Menard's had the kits on sale recently and I picked up three of them to do one single and a double door. Started cutting with a knife but quickly switched to using the table saw since 80% were one height and the other 20% were another. Kicked out both doors in 2 hrs, very happy with the results.
 
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mike_s

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Menard's had the kits on sale recently and I picked up three of them to do one single and a double door. Started cutting with a knife but quickly switched to using the table saw since 80% were one height and the other 20% were another. Kicked out both doors in 2 hrs, very happy with the results.



I didn't have to do any "long cuts" (along the 54" edge). All of my cuts were to make it narrower along the roughly 21" edge.

Just took a right angle and ran a utility knife down it. Bend and it popped apart.

Oly thing I would have done different was put up a small work table. Getting down on the concrete 16 times got hard on my worn out knees in the end.
 

ApatheticEnd

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Jan 24, 2015
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Perth, Western Australia
Does anyone have a link for a similar kit in Australia? I had one of the reverse cycle systems from my old house installed in the garage of my new house. N facing garage door heats up the room so quickly.
 
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mike_s

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well my above kit has been in for about 2 weeks now.

Typically in winter the garage stays in the 40's....
But since I put this in it's been 50-55 easily. So well worth it to me.

(that's without running any heat)
 

Angelfire

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Don't waste your money on a kit. I used sheets of 1-1/2 inch thick Polyisocyanurate insulation. This is rated at R7.20 per inch thick. I cut the sheets to be a friction fit in the doors. I installed the insulation about 17 years ago, and it is still in great condition. You may want to look for insulation at a local surplus building materials outlet. I bought enough insulation to do both a 16' and an 8' door for under $100. Just be sure to use either Polyisocyanurate or expanded polyurethane. Other materials have far inferior R values. Be sure to rebalance your doors for the added weight. In my experience stronger springs are not usually needed. Just increase the preload on them. Here is some good info on overhead door spring instalation and adjustment: http://truetex.com/garage.htm

This is what I did. Bought the sheets and cut them to size. Works great.
 

happy2rv

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Huntsville, AL
I started using this on my 2 car attached garage door. I haven't finished it though. Here is a picture of part of the door with 1 layer of foam in most of the pockets. I think I can get 2 layers in.

When I built the detached garage, I ordered an insulated door and it wasn't much extra. Something to keep in mind if anyone is replacing their door.
 

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