I'm planning on attempting some body repairs on an 86 Toyota. I'm comfortable with a tig and plan on use that to weld in new panels. I was searching for metal at work and wasn't sure what gauge would be ideal. I'm not going for a period correct repair or anything. The patch would be from top of rocker down to pinch weld. I would have to put a slight bend to match rest of rocker.
I was looking at some .0598 on amazon supply. Any thoughts?
Also should I go galvanized?
I probably would be better going to metal supply store to get some advice.
What are your thoughts?
Typical US automotive sheet metal panels will be 19 gauge, but foreign may be differently sized. Best bet would be to verify on your existing rocker panel in an area where it is still solid and check the thickness with either calipers or micrometer. The downside to 19 gauge is that it is difficult to find in some areas. Where 18 gauge should be slightly thicker, with steel manufacturers trying to cut costs these days, in many cases the 18 is made on the lower end of the sizing tolerance and thus is about what you would need to match the factory original, and is also readily available. I would suggest Cold Rolled Steel, so you don’t have the mill scale to contend with, and stay away from galvanized as it will likely present adhesion issues with your primer. Local metal suppliers may have drop cuts that will save you money, so don’t forget to check them as a source. If your location was listed under your avatar, it would make it easier for someone to point you toward a local vendor. (hint-hint)
I will agree, I have used a lot of 16 on body repairs, holds things nice and straight, stays where its put, holds a bend and is a lot easier to weld.
I would not consider using dissimilar thicknesses easier to weld. Unless you are experiencing cold weld joints (lack of weld penetration) on the 16 gauge, then you are risking blowing holes in the 19 gauge (if actually the factory size?) due to the higher heat setting to accommodate the 16. The 16 will also be considerably more challenging to form correctly to match the factory bends. Again, go with as close as you can to the factory thickness for better consistency, better results.
Well, just for a start, that goes against everything I have ever read on the net.
So many people must have got it all wrong ... __________________
Actually, you would be wrong. He prefers a mig. It's much faster than a tig. Some people prefer a TIG for fab/restoration work. You apparently must read selectively.
If you go back to post #1, the original poster actually indicated his intention to use a TIG. I don’t know whose preference it was to use a MIG, but that would be irrelevant based on what the OP plans to use. Was that selective reading?
TIG will be a little slower, but it's pretty easy to burn holes when doing rockers. Go with what you're comfortable with.
Use the thickest steel you can bend into the shape you want. If it's too thin, it will be harder to weld, and rust through easier.
This welding process starts with panel fitment and consistency in doing so. Regardless of whether you are using TIG, O/A gas, or MIG, panel fitment that is tight in some areas and has gaps in others will be prone to burning holes in those wide gap areas. This weld process needs to be set up with tight joints using similar thickness panels (new vs. old). That is what will make welding easier and less likely to burn holes.
Regarding speed, another part of the welding process is cleanup afterward (weld slag/splatter, grinding weld joints, planishing, etc) Speaking again to consistency, where most home shops are outfitted with MIG welders, they will be the least optimal machine to use for weld consistency. Dot welding, starting, stopping, gaps, etc, all contribute to uneven heat patterns (Heat Affected Zone) for differing amounts of shrinking throughout that HAZ. Again, this is still part of the welding process and consistency is a key aspect. Keep in mind that you can work through these issues with using a MIG for acceptable results, but the optimal results will be seen when using tight joints and a welding process that will allow welding from one end to the other without stopping (which leaves out the MIG). A one pass weld from one end to the other will produce the most consistency in the HAZ width and thus consistency in the shrinking properties of the weld overall. The operator must be comfortable with the process first and foremost, and location on the vehicle may dictate one method over another based on this, but TIG or GAS should be a quicker process over the MIG.
