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Which is Better/Cheaper?

쾌속차

New member
Joined
Sep 29, 2007
Messages
3
I'm looking at two different things here, a stick built garage or a pre-made steel building. Being overseas I can't price out the stick built but the steel I've got a price on. ($4500 w/o slab) So heres my question(s), anyone able to give me a "quote" for the stick. Which one lasts longer and more resistent to the weather. Also how much does a slab run? (24'x28'x5"deep)

Heres some info on the garages I'm looking at.

Stick: 24'x28'x14'/8' 5" slab
shop.jpg


Steel: 24"x28"x6"(+/-) 5" slab
workshops.jpg



Thanks for any help!
Brian
 
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Charles (in GA)

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Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
I just looked at steel buildings along the lines of what you show above. These are enlarged metal carport structures with sidewalls and other added features. The are not the strongest things in the world. Yes, there are some made that are quite stout. Someone on this site has one in their garage build thread, but most are rather flimsy and cannot be compared with a stick built structure.

One of my coworkers built a 30x50 shop and garage. He used three trusses from Miracle truss (with a 4/12 roof) but used wood for all of the exterior covering and girts and purlins. A good combination of both materials. The trusses in 10 ft eave were so expensive that he bought 8 ft eave and poured 2 ft high columns at each truss attach point to raise the trusses.

Concrete is, give or take a few dollars, depending on your location, around $100 a yard. You can do the math for your cubic feet divided by 27 for cubic yards, and I have no earthly idea what forming and a finish crew would cost. This is a huge variable. A builder with re-usable forms might give you a deal if he isn't busy, while someone who has to build all the forms will cost you dearly. My builder had a bunch of made up form sections, saved me and him in the end.

Charles
 

Bib Overalls

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Joined
Dec 4, 2006
Messages
3,318
Location
Jonesboro, Arkansas
The metal building in your post is not very durable and difficult to insullate and finish out. And it will not add value to your property proportionate to the cost of erection.

Stick built will cost more. No question. But a properly built stick frame structure that goes well with the existing house will add value equivelent to the erection cost.

And with a stick built structure you can insullate and sheet rock yourself as resources become available.

I have an Adams Truss metal and wood hybred structure behind my house. Lots of volume at a relatively low cost. But I wish now that I had stick built a second garage next to the house and erected my metal building on the adjoining lot, which we own.

Build as big as you can afford.
 

쾌속차

New member
Joined
Sep 29, 2007
Messages
3
Alright so that type of metal building(tin can) is a bad idea.

The Miracle truss/Adam truss type building is something I'll have to do some more research on but so far they seem like a good option.

As for the stick I was able to get a hold of a buddy back home and got some prices. For all the 2x4's I'd need it would be around $300. and for the slab I need it will cost around $1500 just for the concrete. I haven't even started pricing out OSB or roofing yet but so far I believe I'm gonna spend around $5000 in total(+/-).

So do ya'll think $5000 is a "normal" price for a building of my size?

Also correct me if I'm wrong. The norm. for building walls in either 12" on center or 24" right? I know 12" on center will make the building strong but will 24"o.c. be sufficient?

Thanks for the help,
Brian
 
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Yotaforce

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Joined
Aug 24, 2007
Messages
377
Location
Western NC Mountains
I just baught a 30 x 40 from Kentucky steel buildings. They put the purlins and girts every 24" and they have a 35 year warranty on the paint, a 50 year on the structure, and at 12k for mine, I would think about half that for yours.
 

dipper

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Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
759
Location
Rochester, NY
16" on center would be the max i would do for your walls. 12" would be overkill. 16-24" o.c. would be okay for the roof, which depending on snow load you have to design for. Besides 2x4's, you'd need pressure treated for the sill plate, 2x6 or larger for window and door openings, 2x10 or larger for you overhead door opening, I would not do OSB on your roof, go with plywood, but again it goes with what your area recommends for snow load.

I would guess with 24'wide and 28' deep, you'd be at 8k just to get it closed in, that is you doing almost all the work yourself.
Have you thought about electric/plumbing?? You'll want to at least plan for it from the get go as you will most likely need it.
 
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