Which Mig Welder?

[kmacht]

I am looking for a 110v mig welder and have narrowed it down to two possiblities. Yes, I already know that 220 is prefered. My budget doesn't allow for a 220 unit and the majority of work I will be doing is with sheetmetal and light gage steel. I understand the limitations of a 110 unit so please don't respond by telling me to go buy a $1500 220 machine instead. My budget is $375 or less. I have a need for the welder in the very near future so waiting and saving more money for a different unit isn't a viable option. The two welders I am looking at are:

1: Lincoln Electric Handy Mig
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00920580000P?keyword=welder&prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

2: Hobarg/Miller AutoArc 130
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VECKTM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I'm looking for thoughts or opinions on these two machines. I have seen good reviews on both but have concerns with the Lincoln in that I have heard that the Handy Mig isn't really up to Lincoln's standard. I like the Hobart but am concerned that it is a newer model and although listed as a Hobart, the machine isn't listed on the hobart website. There is a auto arc 130 listed on the miller website though.

Keith

 

[hischj]

I am not for sure but I think that auto arc is made by milweld not miller. Since I don't anything about that company I would go for the Lincoln. If you could go to $480 I would get a hobart handler 140, but it sounds like the budget is set.

 

[Major Ramifications]

This is the first I have seen of a blue Hobart. I was concerned that this might be the first of some chinese Hobart units, but it says Made In USA really big on the front. I don't see the word Hobart on it anywhere, though.

As to your original question, I would have to find out why they are calling the blue one a Hobart, maybe somebody on here can tell us what's up with this.

Looking at the specs, country of origin, and value, I would certainly lean toward the blue one.

 

[kmacht]

I did some more digging on the Hobard "blue" welder. It is actually a Miller Auto Arc 130. Miller stopped manufacturing the 130 a few years back and it looks like they are bringing it back as a Hobart. A post on the Hobart welding forum confirms that it truely is a Hobart welder. The users manual can be found here:

http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o243712a_aut.pdf

I am also open to other suggestions for 110v Mig welders. It has to be Mig capable though. I have used fluxcore in the past and found it only suitable for fenceposts and other projects where you don't care what the weld looks like. Most of my work will be autobody sheetmetal panels. I have also looked at the Harbor Freight welders but don't know where you would even get parts for those if they needed fixing. Clarke is a possiblity as well as re-branded welders. I would also consider the used route but haven't found much on Craigslist in the last month or so that was any better than the new ones I have already listed.

Keith

 

[Major Ramifications]

Now I like the blue one even more.

 

[Brandon_K]

I'm not familiar with many machines in that price range, but I'm a big fan our Handler 135. It's been a really reliable machine and lays a great bead. My buddy just picked up a Handler 140 and whlie it has a tad more power, it doesn't have a purge setting! While it's certainly not a deal breaker, it's disappointing.

 

[RAYJAY]

i'm not familiar with many machines in that price range, but i'm a big fan our handler 135. It's been a really reliable machine and lays a great bead. My buddy just picked up a handler 140 and whlie it has a tad more power, it doesn't have a purge setting! While it's certainly not a deal breaker, it's disappointing.

+2 on the 135 mine is a great machine

 

[Justanoldguy]

I have used fluxcore in the past and found it only suitable for fenceposts and other projects where you don't care what the weld looks like. Most of my work will be autobody sheetmetal panels.

If you are using it for sheetmetal panels then why is looks important?
Don't you grind them down anyway.
I use fluxcore on my sheetmetal work and it works just fine.
I can even sit outside in the sun and weld with it.

 

[z28snksknr]

If you are using it for sheetmetal panels then why is looks important?
Don't you grind them down anyway.
I use fluxcore on my sheetmetal work and it works just fine.
I can even sit outside in the sun and weld with it.

I agree with this.

Also, have you considered used? I got my 110V fluxcore Lincoln on craigslist for $80. It can do up to 1/4" plate in a single (short) pass and Ii plan on using it for all my sheet metal repairs on my truck.

Just sayin- in your price range, you can get a nice solid piece used.

 

[kmacht]

I have used fluxcore in the past and really do not care for it. The ammount of spatter is tremendous and you have much better control of the weld when using gas. Any machine that can run gas can also run fluxcore, you just need to switch the polarity leads. It has its places such as outside on a windy day but for autobody work gas is always preferred.

I have tried craigslist for about a month now. The only used welders within a 100 mile driving distance from me are either higher end 220 machines out of my price range, no name brands that don't look much better than the harbor freight machines, and name brands that have broken guns, damaged liners, stripped feed wheels, etc. They are still asking 300+ for those damaged machines.

I also like the Hobart Handler 140 but it is out of my price range at $479. They don't make the 135 any more. The 125 comes in two versions. The EZ is a one knob setting but you can't add gass. The regular 125 can have gas added with an upgrade kit but it is $250 for the machine plus $99 for the upgrade. It is the same price as the auto-arc at that poing.

I went and orderd the auto-arc 130 last night. I'll post a review of it here once I try it out for a bit. It appears to be a decent welder for a really good price. Only time will tell.

Keith

 

[78Bird]

I'm not familiar with many machines in that price range, but I'm a big fan our Handler 135. It's been a really reliable machine and lays a great bead. My buddy just picked up a Handler 140 and whlie it has a tad more power, it doesn't have a purge setting! While it's certainly not a deal breaker, it's disappointing.

You know, I notice the same thing on the 140's I see in stores, but check this out...

My HH140. With purge.


Never seen another yet. Dunno why, but it works great for me.

 

[Major Ramifications]

So, is the purge setting for clearing the air out of the line? So, it wouldn't feed any wire, or give you any arc, just open the gas solenoid valve when you pulled the trigger? I have been wondering why my HH210 doesn't have this. Seems like a good idea to me. I can't honestly say that I need it, but it is something I have thought about.

 

[ironheadtom]

Yes the purge removes the air from the line . I've used machines with and without it but for me I've never seen the need for it. I used to use one of the little Lincolns a lot and was always pleased with it. I bet they're both fine machines. I have a question for Hobart owners, though. I run a big Esab that always has juice to the wire even when you're not on the trigger, and I've heard the Hobarts did the same thing. If so...that would make me lean toward the Lincoln. ( The Esab is a great machine..don't get me wrong, but I freaking flash myself about once a week.)

 

[sberry]

and I've heard the Hobarts did the same thing.

Just curious, where did you hear that?

 

[sberry]

Hobart has an excellent talk forum, one of the best on the net. http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/

 

[ironheadtom]

Just curious, where did you hear that?

Quite a while back from a salesman at Airco, when I was shopping for a small welder. Hobart was out of my price range anyway, so I got the millermatic 250, which was a pretty good machine.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

I bought Jack Olsen's Hobart Handler 140 from him a few months ago when he upgraded to a 220v machine. I still haven't used it because I haven't bought a helmet, bottle/gas, gloves etc. Do a search here on his metal fence project and I think it did a great job for him. I intend to use it for repairing some holes in the firewall of the '46 Chevy truck I own and a few minor around-the-house fixit jobs. For what I want it to do, I think it will be perfect.

 

[sberry]

The 140's are very good on the low end for sheet metal.

 

[Major Ramifications]

On my Hobart Handler 210, the tip is cold until you pull the trigger. On my old Craftsman (Century) 110V MIG, the tip was always hot. I like the cold tip better.

Kind of interesting, the old Century didn't have a gas solenoid valve, but had a valve built into the gun that was directly activated by the trigger. The Campbell Hausfeld MIGs are this way, too.

 

[RAYJAY]

If you are using it for sheetmetal panels then why is looks important?
Don't you grind them down anyway.
I use fluxcore on my sheetmetal work and it works just fine.
I can even sit outside in the sun and weld with it.

i would never use flux core on body work read this to see why ...

http://asuwlink.uwyo.edu/~metal/migtech.html


and from the miller site


http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/Proper-welding-wire-selection

 

[Justanoldguy]

i would never use flux core on body work read this to see why ...

http://asuwlink.uwyo.edu/~metal/migtech.html


and from the miller site


http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/Proper-welding-wire-selection

The first link is one mans opinion 7 years ago.
Holds no credence with me or many thousands of others who successfully use fluxcore on automotive panelwork. I use anti splatter spray with great success.
The second link is not against fluxcore panel work at all.
eg "flux cored wire produces a rounder penetration profile with excellent sidewall fusion."

The truth is, there will always be debate over this and there is no true method one way or the other. Whatever works for you, then do that.