Which Milwaukee M18 Cordless Drill?

[bulletpruf]

Fellas -

My junky Ryobi cordless drill finally died. I have Milwaukee M18 tools so I'd like to buy one of their cordless drills, too. I get a lot of use out of these, so I'd like to buy the right one. I have a drill press and corded drills, including right angle and hammer drill, so I'm just looking for a good quality unit with sufficient power. If I have to pay a bit more to get the one I need, I'm ok with that.

The problem is that there are several to choose from, including compact and brushed and brushless. I'm curious to hear what y'all recommend. It would be nice to have a compact one, but I'm not sure I need compact if I already have a corded right angle drill.

Your thoughts?

Thanks!

Scott

 

[wkndwarrior29]

Scott,

This is garagejournal. The correct answer is, you should buy at least one of each.

The brushless models are generally a little bulkier and heavier but have more power and you can throttle them with the trigger - this is really the way to go. Batteries also last longer in them.

I have the M12 brushless - it is SWEET. It has plenty of power for most tasks and is nice and compact. This one also has a hammer drill feature. It came in a kit with a 4 speed impact driver and that is also awesome.

Dustin

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[Ign]

The 2703 is non hammer, 2704 is hammer

Latest Gen is 2803/2804, same story

With the very recent release of the 2800's the 2704 has dropped in price almost everywhere, although to be clear I'm generally shopping bare tool (-20), not kits (-21 or -22).

I'd consider the 2704 and then Rohm makes a chuck for the relatively oddball 9/16-18 spindle on these. Can be had straight from Rohm for ~$53 IIRC.

The problem w all of Milwaukee's drills is their chucks which are lackluster at best.

Of course, you could just see if you can tolerate the stock chuck and/or look to a brand that already comes w a better chuck - and I'm a HUGE Milwaukee fan boy so flame away but there's only 2 or 3 people on this board who own more Milwaukee tools than I.

 

[man-a-fre]

As said the chucks are bad,see if you can get your supplier to spin a bit in the drill your buying and try to pick one the chuck spins true.I had a guy give me a dewalt he dropped and broke the case and I took that chuck and put it on my Milwaukee 2606-20 brushed drill and I like it now.

 

[jumbojak]

The 2703 is non hammer, 2704 is hammer

Latest Gen is 2803/2804, same story

With the very recent release of the 2800's the 2704 has dropped in price almost everywhere, although to be clear I'm generally shopping bare tool (-20), not kits (-21 or -22).

I'd consider the 2704 and then Rohm makes a chuck for the relatively oddball 9/16-18 spindle on these. Can be had straight from Rohm for ~$53 IIRC.

The problem w all of Milwaukee's drills is their chucks which are lackluster at best.

Of course, you could just see if you can tolerate the stock chuck and/or look to a brand that already comes w a better chuck - and I'm a HUGE Milwaukee fan boy so flame away but there's only 2 or 3 people on this board who own more Milwaukee tools than I.

I contacted Rohm and they were gracious enough to get one of their dealers to sell me a chuck for the 2704, despite not buying enough volume to meet the dealer's minimum order requirement.

It was worth it though. The factory truck ran true enough but would randomly release when using larger bits. The drill can handle a 1 1/4" speedbor easily but the chuck just wouldn't hold onto it.

One other problem I've had with the 2704 is that it can "stick" in hammer mode at times. The first time it did it there was a lot of jiggling needed to get it into drill mode.

 

[AngryBeaver]

any of the brushless ones are good. I've been using a non fuel brushless on my service truck for over a year without issues. hammer function on a cordless drill unless it is a rotary hammer is useless for any actual concrete work.

and contrary to the belief that the chucks "****" is that most people do not know how to properly tighten a bit.

most people hold the chuck with one hand and use the trigger to tighten it down. while this works for most hex sided bits and twist drills, this will not hold a round bit very well.

you need to tighten the bit by hand after snugging it up by the trigger method. you'll normally get 4-5 more clicks out of the chuck when tighten by hand. I have 4 milwaukee cordless M18 drills and two M12's. if I read on the internet they sucked, I'd believe it. after actually using them professionally for 3 years since I switch over from dewalt, I have not had one single chuck issue.

 

[American Locomotive]

Don't bother with brushed tools anymore. The brushless motors are more compact, more powerful, and much more efficient. The jury is still out on long-term durability of the controls electronics, but I haven't heard of these things dying en masse.

As mentioned, Milwaukee chucks are not good and should definitely be replaced with something else. I have never been more frustrated with a power tool than the day I was at work trying to drill a hole through some mildly hardened steel with a M18 drill and a 3/16" bit. The bit would grab, and the freaking chuck would just slipping. No matter how hard I cranked down it, it would still slip. I ended up having to use our cheap Porter Cable drill to finish the job.

It's embarrassing when an $80 Porter Cable drill has a better chuck than a M18 drill.

 

[theoldwizard1]

First, I am a fan of M12 because of the lightweight. Maybe because I am older, but I don't need a heavy battery on the end of any power tool.

I have always believed that the average homeowner should have 2 drill motors. A lighter duty 3/8" battery and a heavy duty 1/2" corded with triple gear reduction.

Buy a set of drill bits where the larger ones are turned down to 3/8". You save money on a lighter duty drill motor and on the drill bits !

 

[bulletpruf]

Thanks for all the input, fellas. Really appreciate it. I'm going to go with the 2703 brushless M18.

 

[Ign]

any of the brushless ones are good. I've been using a non fuel brushless on my service truck for over a year without issues. hammer function on a cordless drill unless it is a rotary hammer is useless for any actual concrete work.

and contrary to the belief that the chucks "****" is that most people do not know how to properly tighten a bit.

most people hold the chuck with one hand and use the trigger to tighten it down. while this works for most hex sided bits and twist drills, this will not hold a round bit very well.

you need to tighten the bit by hand after snugging it up by the trigger method. you'll normally get 4-5 more clicks out of the chuck when tighten by hand. I have 4 milwaukee cordless M18 drills and two M12's. if I read on the internet they sucked, I'd believe it. after actually using them professionally for 3 years since I switch over from dewalt, I have not had one single chuck issue.

No, one should never just tighten against the motor. I always spin by hand w tool "off" and get the extra clicks. Some drills will spin 1/2 revolution or more before braking and people give up too soon thinking they're in "neutral."

But the chucks still ****. They auto-loosen, suffer from concentricity issues, lock up requiring Channel-locks to free them........and even if you don't experience much of this they ALL have a vague, poor feel to them.

Cut it any way you want, the quality just ain't there. On a good day they're a Ford Festiva while a Rohm is an Audi. Both get you there, one is just more fun to drive

 

[kctyphoon]

Quick answer - the brushed and brushless drill basically have the same torque ratings. (For the most part) they just employ different technologies to make the drill spin.

The m18 fuel is the top tier - much more powerful than either of the others.

All of them are fine, they are all good tools - the fuel is just the best they have to offer.

People have their own experiences - I’ve probably bought / used close to half a dozen or more m18 drills between home and outfitting trucks for work and I haven’t had a problem with one of their chucks yet, but more than a few people have had issues in the past..

To be completely fair - peoples level of “unacceptable” seem to vary. Myself - i dont care if i place a 18” long auger bit in a drill and it has an ever so slight wobble in the thing.. I’m not drilling ultra precise stuff with a cordless drill anyway. For me, its a construction tool, and I’m not gun smithing with the thing. Ive never had a bit come loose from a chuck though. I love my Milwaukee stuff, I wouldn’t replace them with anything.. they get abused and thrown around at work all the time with absolutely no effort given to show them any kindness.

 

[WittHay]

Thanks for all the input, fellas. Really appreciate it. I'm going to go with the 2703 brushless M18.

I have the 2703 also and like it except for the chuck. Try to use drill bits with the 3 sides if you can. You have to really tighten the chuck down on regular round drill bits. if you dont the bits get chewed up fast drilling through metal.

Never noticed a wobble but i think the chuck or something else is different beween the regular 2703 and the hammer 2704

 

[DFB]

IMO it really been just he Fuel hammer drill models that seems to have the "wobble". The drill only version is better and heard it was related to the added hammer action dunno

M18 Fuel drill is powerhouse, M18 brushed is lighter and easier to handle and I favor that for small jobs over the Fuel but the M12 Fuel with half chuck can do just everything you ask of it. I have all 3

All depends what your doing boring big holes/rough construction spade auger hole saw M18 Fuel., Homeownwer chores, M18 brushed is totally adequate (the brusheless version I have not ever used so no comment on it)

M12 is nice for shop work/ smaller more detail jobs That Fuel will blow an 1/4" spade bit thru 2x like nothing too!

 

[ptgarcia]

I haven't noticed any wobble in my 2804, nor has the chuck loosened up on me. On the contrary, my C3 drill drops bits constantly.

 

[bulletpruf]

Excellent input, fellas. I really appreciate it.