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Which Miter Saw

gkeberhart

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Dec 16, 2014
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So I am in a bit of a predicament, the miter saw I have been using for a while at work has lost all calibrations on the miter settings (only learned after I ripped all the wood made all cuts and started assembling a table top for my wife). Works great as a chop saw but I really need it for a miter saw. I could re-calibrate it but the same guy that abuses it will cause the same issue.

Long story short I need a suggestion for a reliable 10 inch single bevel or dual bevel sliding miter saw.
 
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Average_Joe

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Mar 13, 2011
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Summerville, SC
Dewalt.

Miters saws typically have a steel tang that engages the miter locks. Every one I looked at (Hitachi, Ridgid, Delta, etc), except for the Dewalt was of a design that can (and does) break.


Notice the steel tang, that will break. Before I bought my Dewalt, I bought a Ridgid and this part was broken in the sealed box.





This is the dewalt part:




Just look underneath the miter detent/lock handle, on whatever saw you decide to get and make sure it doesn't have the weak tang design.
 
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Reese

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I second the suggestion to look at Dewalt. I have a 12" dual bevel I am real happy with. I don't know know if you are looking for new or used, but in the used market the price difference is small between the 10" and 12" saws. A 12" Dewalt lets you cut a 2 x 6 on edge in one pass.

If you are looking at used saws be careful about who used them. I bought two used 12" saws from a contractor, they were beat. I was able to build one good saw from the pair, but I didn't save a dollar over buying a better used saw.
 

tarbellb

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Makita LS1016L 10" dual bevel. Love it.

OR..... any Makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Ridgid that I could get a free mobile stand or 25% off. They really are all pretty damn good, so money is what would sway me.

Oh, Hitachi has fallen off pretty hard. Unless you like a poorly built alien looking thing on your bench.
 

thewatusi

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Dec 27, 2013
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Philly Burbs
I have a 12" Dewalt duel bevel.

A slider would be nice but I've never encountered a situation where I needed it to slide.

I'd buy another one in a minute.
 

southalabama

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Brewton AL
We use dewalt in our construction projects and around the house.

We have an older makita compound mitre slide that we use in our picture frame shop. It has the dual things the saw slides on. We use a high dollar blade on it with high tooth count and it cuts extremely tight tolerances.
 

sam.coll

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BFBOB

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Sep 20, 2011
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I have a Ridgid 12" sliding belvel miter on the MSUV stand. Accurate, long reach, and the MSUV lets me do shop quality work in the field. It weighs a bit, but wheels around like a two-wheeler hand truck when it's folded up. The later versions have a laser cut-line. Don't know whether it's useful or jest a gimmick.
I got the whole shebang for $600 new, and I consider it a bargain.
 

Fugio

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For the money it's hard to beat a DeWalt miter saw. My next one will probably be the 10" DB slider.
 
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gkeberhart

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Dec 16, 2014
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Thanks for all the help, looks like I have some good things to look at when I start shopping for one.
 

Hogtown

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Mar 5, 2013
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I've had a Milwaukee 12" sliding compound miter saw (Model 6955?) for about 18 months. It has performed flawlessly....could not be more pleased. Having said that, a friend has a similar Bosch saw...I've used it several times and it too is just a wonderful saw.
 

Monte

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7871b3a99e54bc606db3517c29cd06d9.jpg
 

Ainsley

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After quite a bit of research I went with the Makita. The bosch was a close second because of the bevel adjustment up front.
 

Major Ramifications

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Feb 28, 2005
Messages
4,673
Location
River Ridge, Louisiana
Dewalt.

Miters saws typically have a steel tang that engages the miter locks. Every one I looked at (Hitachi, Ridgid, Delta, etc), except for the Dewalt was of a design that can (and does) break.


Notice the steel tang, that will break. Before I bought my Dewalt, I bought a Ridgid and this part was broken in the sealed box.





This is the dewalt part:




Just look underneath the miter detent/lock handle, on whatever saw you decide to get and make sure it doesn't have the weak tang design.

Yep, nothing worse than weak 'tang.
 
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texvn

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Southern California
After quite a bit of research I went with the Makita. The bosch was a close second because of the bevel adjustment up front.

Which Makita did you end up with? I spent over a year borrowing saws from friends before I could make a decision but I ended up with the Makita LS1016L compound slider. It has been one of the best tool purchases I have ever made.
 

pablo94sc

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Jul 28, 2014
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Memphis
What do you guys think of Wen? I can get a 12" sliding miter for about $100 from a woman selling it on Facebook. Worth it for home use, or a piece of junk to be avoided? I'll do some miter work when I have to hang trim, but mostly it'll be for building stuff for outside the house.

Also, can a miter saw use a cut off wheel for making timber spikes out of rebar, out am i asking too much?
 

tarbellb

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BFHtime

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Mar 31, 2012
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I suggest retuning the saw you have. Then getting a cheaper chop saw for the abuser.

An option may be to have the abuser recall rate the saw on his own time, then maybe he will respect it more. Some people just do not GAF, so it depends.

I was thinking to just give him the out of square saw, but that person will probable just use it as is, instead of fixing it.

Sometimes you need the right person for the job, just like he right tool.
 

cheechi

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they only make these ghastly things
that ghastly thing is a hell of a saw and doesn't have the space constraints that most sliders have. I have one and it's a beast.

I haven't yet seen a wen product that looked like it was any good. If you have a lower budget then I would give the HF saw a chance. worst case you know they will take it back without issue.
 

tarbellb

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Cheechi, I know you do a lot of work as ive seen some of your other post. But tell me how this saw has less "space constraint", as it looks like the same slider system everybody else uses except on a vertical stack vs a horizontal stacking of the load bars?

Beast or not, it looks ridiculous, belt drive, and that extra knob on the back is in no way reducing footprint.

The only saw I know of that actually reduces footprint is the Bosch Axial system.
 

bcradio

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Cheechi, I know you do a lot of work as ive seen some of your other post. But tell me how this saw has less "space constraint", as it looks like the same slider system everybody else uses except on a vertical stack vs a horizontal stacking of the load bars?

Beast or not, it looks ridiculous, belt drive, and that extra knob on the back is in no way reducing footprint.

The only saw I know of that actually reduces footprint is the Bosch Axial system.

That Hitachi is a pretty good saw. It reduces it's footprint by allowing the saw to only slide forward or only slide back. If you only slide forward, you can put it right next to a wall on then back side. Look at the picture above and notice the two knobs on top of the rail. This is what allows it.
 

arz71

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That Hitachi is a pretty good saw. It reduces it's footprint by allowing the saw to only slide forward or only slide back. If you only slide forward, you can put it right next to a wall on then back side. Look at the picture above and notice the two knobs on top of the rail. This is what allows it.

I need one as well.

What model Hitachi and how does it compare to the Dewalt?
 

cheechi

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The C12RSH as pictured a few posts above.

That Hitachi is a pretty good saw. It reduces it's footprint by allowing the saw to only slide forward or only slide back. If you only slide forward, you can put it right next to a wall on then back side. Look at the picture above and notice the two knobs on top of the rail. This is what allows it.
Basically the rails have two locks. You can lock it like a stop for a certain depth of cut, which is kind of handy and I don't recall seeing that feature on any other miter. Not going to get used every day but I can see it being a 'feature' worth paying a little bit more for. But anyway.

The second knob as described so well by bcradio you can lock the slides 'forward' so the saw can be shoved right up against a wall. The saw (to my recollection) doesn't lose any cutting capacity this way either. In fact in the photo linked, you could say that's the setup we're talking about.

If money was no object, I can't say for sure I wouldn't get a kapex. The Bosch GC whatever slider is so smooth, and it also has a similar 'no sticking out in back' footprint. The 780 is really great with that louver/shadow line that's just plain genius. But I totally get it if you don't believe me. I would have this saw at least as a secondary if it broke and I had to buy a new one.
 

tarbellb

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The C12RSH as pictured a few posts above.


Basically the rails have two locks. You can lock it like a stop for a certain depth of cut, which is kind of handy and I don't recall seeing that feature on any other miter. Not going to get used every day but I can see it being a 'feature' worth paying a little bit more for. But anyway.

The second knob as described so well by bcradio you can lock the slides 'forward' so the saw can be shoved right up against a wall. The saw (to my recollection) doesn't lose any cutting capacity this way either. In fact in the photo linked, you could say that's the setup we're talking about.

If money was no object, I can't say for sure I wouldn't get a kapex. The Bosch GC whatever slider is so smooth, and it also has a similar 'no sticking out in back' footprint. The 780 is really great with that louver/shadow line that's just plain genius. But I totally get it if you don't believe me. I would have this saw at least as a secondary if it broke and I had to buy a new one.

Ok now that youve both explained a little more I see how it works. Its almost like a RAS? The rail stays stationary, and the motor/blade slide back and forth. Interesting.

As for your other comments I agree completely except for maybe the Kapex? I have yet to use one extensively but they seem like a perfect example of paying x2 more for 5% better?

Thanks for the input and lesson guys.
 

tarbellb

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I think my personal favorite would be a hybrid of the open framework+simplicity and direct drive of the Makita dual slider w/ the Dewalt shadow line system.
 

cheechi

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Yeah if I had more money than sense, I might buy the kapex. That's what I meant.

Have to admit fes stuff fits all together really well, like Lego blocks. It's supposed to have the best vibration damping whatever whatever too. But in the real world you're right, any of the others I mentioned would be one I would not hesitate to buy but for the price. Which is specifically why the Hitachi is what I own, it was the least expensive of what I consider 'top' saws that I could see and touch in person. I think I bought mine before the 780 was available or right when it first came out. I would still choose the Hitachi over a 718 though.

They don't sell Makita or Milwaukee miters near me. They do sell the Ridgid and I like its design, but it's almost never in stock/on display near me.
 
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