want to paint the kitchen cabinets white... looking for a non oil based paint (can't handle fumes and have little ones at home)... was thinking just finding a premium satin or semi gloss paint like behr premium ultra or something... any ideas? also it doesn't say anything about an air sprayer (which i'll be using for the doors and drawers) but it gives directions for thinning for an airless sprayer... will i still be fine with using an HVLP gun for it?
which non-oil or alkyd paint for cabinets
- Thread starter Sh40674
- Start date
MushCreek
Well-known member
We used Benjamin Moore Advance for our interior trim and kitchen cabinets. It's very much like an oil-base paint the way it goes on and looks, but is water based. So far, it seems very hard and durable.
4Kings
Well-known member
I have been using Sherwin Williams Pro Classic for years on cabinets and furniture. You want a paint that will lay down and this is it.
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/architects-specifiers-designers/products/proclassic-interior-waterbased-acrylicalkyd
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/architects-specifiers-designers/products/proclassic-interior-waterbased-acrylicalkyd
retfr8flyr
Well-known member
+1 on the SW Pro Classic, great paint for all kinds of woodwork.
Trey T
Well-known member
For the SW Pro Classic, do you have to prime the wood to prevent the yellowing?
I used Sherwin Williams solo, it's their contractor line of paint. It's the only water based paint they offered in eggshell finish. I sprayed it with a harbor freight non hvlp pressure pot sprayer and a 10 gallon compressor.
I decided to use it after my brother paid big money by a pro painter to have his newly built cabinets painted with it. They used an airless sprayer. Both sets of cabinets looks great.
I decided to use it after my brother paid big money by a pro painter to have his newly built cabinets painted with it. They used an airless sprayer. Both sets of cabinets looks great.
I also used BM advance on my cabinets. Sprayed the doors with a turbine hvlp thinned with a little water and it came out great.
ard
Well-known member
Really?
Just my opinion but a decent job of prep, dissassembly, filling, sanding, etc,etc is going to be HOURS AND HOURS....and you just want to throw on some consumer grade ****?
Get a real paint from a real paint store- sherwin Williams, Benny more...
How far is 'not close enough' anyway?
OTOH, if this is a quickly 'paint it with the drawers, doors, hinges and hardware on- then use whatever.
Sawdustmaker
Well-known member
I used Behr Swiss Coffee from HD on my cabinets, doors & drawers. Turned out nice. Used Dunn-Edwards primer first (no voc). HVLP is only good for finish on stained wood. I've been to two classes on HVLP at my local Rockler store. When I ask about latex paint (no voc), they said no. Clogs up the gun. At least the gun they were demoing
. One thing I did after I primed was to sand lightly with 400 grit sandpaper to remove the texture that can form on a primed surface. Applied both primer and finish with a high quality 4 in or 6 in mini roller. Turned out great. I did consider buying a Wagner sprayer, but tried the roller first on several doors before committing to the whole job. My doors that I made are panel doors with maple stiles and rails with a 1/4 " (actually 7/32") MDF panel. Saw a pro cabinet shop use the MDF and figured if it was good for them it would work for me.far enough to where i wont be able to go grab a can of paint if i need it. wanting white, but i want to use the same for the cabinets as trim, interior doors and such so i don't need to go back and fourth between paints, i can just use one. and the reviews on either the sherwin williams or the ben moore don't have me convinced enough to buy either.
I used Behr Swiss Coffee from HD on my cabinets, doors & drawers. Turned out nice. Used Dunn-Edwards primer first (no voc). HVLP is only good for finish on stained wood. I've been to two classes on HVLP at my local Rockler store. When I ask about latex paint (no voc), they said no. Clogs up the gun. At least the gun they were demoing
this is why i want a paint that can be thinned and used in the gun. i don't plan on doing everything in one shot. i'm making the doors myself so i'm just going to spray a couple as they are built (don't have a big kitchen) and do the bases in sections, cleaning the gun in between and using fresh paint for each. i used to spray primer at a cabinet factory with an HVLP gun... i know how easily they're clogged... usually cleaned my gun 4 or 5 times a night just so it didn't happen in the middle of a cabinet. wish i remembered what paint they used.
aspireguy95
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2014
- Messages
- 138
I also used sherwin Williams solo on my cabinets. They have held up great so far no chips or scratches
I agree. This paint is fabulous for trim/cabinets.
It levels out real nice.
Around here a lot of Ace H/W stores sell Benny.
I hand painted some trim and built in cabinets with Behr marquee and Behr ultra plus premium. I then later sprayed a shed with the Behr products. It was too thick and had to be thinned, which then caused the paint to be more translucent requiring more coats.
The sherwin williams solo sprayed perfect right from the can. It's made to be sprayed as that's how most professionals apply it. The stuff you get from HD or lowes is specially made to be rolled or brushed because that's how 90% of the people who buy paint there are going to apply it. You can spray/roll either type, but the sherwin williams seemed much better suited to spraying.
Benjamin Moore Advance and Sherwin Williams Pro Classic are probably the most popular. (Personally, I wouldn't use lacquer like Kem Aqua) Be aware that advance has a longer than normal recoat and drying time
Some other things to consider - Cabinet Coat by Insl-X (Benjamin Moore)
http://www.insl-x.com/
General Finish carries a 'pigmented' polyurethane in Black or White with 3 levels of sheen
https://generalfinishes.com/profess...mented-top-coats/enduro-pigmented-black-white
I would 'play around' with a one or two and see what actually works out for you. You don't want to go cheap - to do it right is a lot of time and effort and you will not want to do it again
Some other things to consider - Cabinet Coat by Insl-X (Benjamin Moore)
http://www.insl-x.com/
General Finish carries a 'pigmented' polyurethane in Black or White with 3 levels of sheen
https://generalfinishes.com/profess...mented-top-coats/enduro-pigmented-black-white
I would 'play around' with a one or two and see what actually works out for you. You don't want to go cheap - to do it right is a lot of time and effort and you will not want to do it again
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the insl-x was my first consideration... but when digging through reviews i found alot of people were satisfied until down the road, had alot of problems with chipping. my concern isn't the application or how well the paint will lay down as much as the durability of it... i may still consider it but looking at other options right now.
as for the rest of you.. would you guys recommend a primer with this? old 70's darker cabinets.... plan on deglazing them or sanding or both, but would you use a primer?
seagravedriver
Well-known member
Not sure where you live, but I have used Sherwin Williams oil based in my kitchen with an HVLP. Very happy. But, you want water based. So, I leave you the below. It didn't stink, and dried fast.
Due to a diffrent project, I tried Rooda \Cloverdale Paint, (I think it is the parent co. of Rooda now). "Hybrid Waterborne Alkyd Emulsion". "Cloverdale Renaissance Interior/Exterior Waterborne Alkyd Enamel". Pretty happy. Washes with water, dries REAL fast. I have to wait to see how it lasts for contact, endurance etc. Worth a look.
Due to a diffrent project, I tried Rooda \Cloverdale Paint, (I think it is the parent co. of Rooda now). "Hybrid Waterborne Alkyd Emulsion". "Cloverdale Renaissance Interior/Exterior Waterborne Alkyd Enamel". Pretty happy. Washes with water, dries REAL fast. I have to wait to see how it lasts for contact, endurance etc. Worth a look.
never enuf time
Well-known member
I used to drive an hr to get BM Advanced. Well worth it.
I spray it out of purple hvlp gun. thinned 3-4 table spoons per cone filter filling.
You need to degrease cabinets first, sand off looseness, fill defects, sand, prime, look for defects, sand, prime, wet sand & 2 top coats.
I use a shellac based primer for quick drying & easy sanding.
I spray it out of purple hvlp gun. thinned 3-4 table spoons per cone filter filling.
You need to degrease cabinets first, sand off looseness, fill defects, sand, prime, look for defects, sand, prime, wet sand & 2 top coats.
I use a shellac based primer for quick drying & easy sanding.
hefnerconstructionlc
Well-known member
Listen to the advice above, it is all about hours of prep work. Finish it off with an equal quality top coat. The BM advanced paint and their separate primer is the way to go, even better at leveling than SW Pro Classic and easier to touch up. However, SW Pro Classic is very close, also a very good product. Skip the Behr you will thank us later.
stonesfan68
Well-known member
You are most assuredly going to want to prime the wood. The primer selection and application is in many ways more important than the finish coat.
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BM advanced. Very happy with the results and the paint is incredibly durable...im shocked at the abused it's taken
Before:
After:
Sprayed with this HVLP setup
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PGQI48/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Before:
After:
Sprayed with this HVLP setup
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PGQI48/?tag=atomicindus08-20
with the ben moore advanced... how long did you have to wait for the paint to "cure" to the point to where you don't have to be extra careful around it? very interested in it, but reading horror stories online of chipping
never enuf time
Well-known member
I would guess a week or so for it to fully cure.
Nothings really going to win against a wild 4 year old, so hope for the best touch up in a couple years.
Nothings really going to win against a wild 4 year old, so hope for the best touch up in a couple years.