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which ratchet to get?

homec

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I'm just starting to build a tool set for car repair and a future project car. My immediate needs are to do some repairs but next year I want to get a project car to eventually take to the track.

I'm not planning on going all snap on due to expense, but for certain things, like a dual 80 ratchet, by all accounts it seems worth it.

So, never having done automotive work, can I get away with an FHF80A (Standard handle comfort grip flex head) as my one ratchet?

Would I be better off ignoring flex head and getting a standard regular grip with longer handle (FL80)?

Also, I've had my issues with "comfort grip" type tools. Not snap-on specific, but the grips coming loose or coming off. I kinda was hoping a flex head would be available in a regular handle but doesn't seem like that's the case.

Over time I could see myself adding more ratchets but for now, I have a lot of stuff to buy so trying not to go overboard and dealing with immediate needs first...
 
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tshetter

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My go to ratchet is a Snap-On 3/8" drive, F80 I believe without the comfort grip. Very comfortable and the small swing angle often comes in handy. My only other commonly used ratchet is a Snap-On SL80A which is the long handle 1/2" and again no comfort grip.

Together with my SK 6pt sockets I'm pretty happy with the combination.
 
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gdocktor3

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Just like tshetter, my go to ratchet 9 times out of 10 is my 3/8" FRLF quick release flex head dual 80 with my 6 point SK sockets as well. I'd recommend buying a flex head and a regular length, but the standard length doesn't have to be dual 80. Maxx 88, Gearwrench 120xp, Mac 100 tooth ratchets, etc are all excellent choices. I purchased a Craftsman low profile 84t ratchet a few months back when on sale and I've been very impressed with it. It is same exact internal design as the Maxx 88, but minus 4 teeth. That has been my go to quick release standard handle ratchet when the FRLF is too long.
 

KWtech90

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I work on HD equipment so my go to 3/8 is a fhl80 to achieve that gudentite torque spec. Flex heads are nice for certain clearance situations, but I really hate how they have a tendency to slip off of a fastener under load.
 

bob15

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Don't get hung up on ratchet tooth counts. We have been using ratchets for decades with low tooth counts, so to think you half to have an 88 tooth ratchet is insane. I have one high tooth count 1/4" drive Snappy ratchet and honestly prefer the low tooth count TM-830 ratchet.

I've been using F830 ratchets for 20 years without any issues, so you can survive with "older' technology. I also prefer not have comfort handles and stick with the metal handle.

Besides Snap On, look at SK and Wright for nice ratchets. I prefer the Wright, for no real particular reason though.
 

M6erfan

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There's no easy answer, really. You'll get a bunch of different responses based on the poster's personal preference.

Personally, I rarely reach for a "standard" length ratchet. My go to's are long pattern with & without flex head and quick release is a must for me. I recently picked up a Koken 3/8 QR Flex ratchet and it is the smoothest lightest backdrag of any ratchet I've ever owned. And it's all of 24T, I grab it before my 72, 88 and dual 80's.

If I were you, I'd pick up some cheaper HF ratchets and see which patterns/styles you like/use most, then spend money on better ratchets after you decide...

Good luck
 
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jdlong

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If I were you, I'd pick up some cheaper HF ratchets and see which patterns/styles you like/use most, then spend money on better ratchets after you decide...

Good luck

Best answer. You will discover a go to to upgrade to but you will also end up with an assortment of patterns in your box you won't use often that one day get you out of a jam at the worst possible moment.
 

racinfarmer

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Don't limit yourself to Snap On when there are so many other great brands out there! Wright, Armstorg, Proto, etc. are all great brands that are easily obtainable, should save a few bucks, and will serve the same purpose.
 

creativecars

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All of them...
But
If you are just starting out I would look at other options, unless you have a rich uncle. You can do a lot more fixing with the less expensive tools than a few top shelf brands. For $300 of select tools from other places I can disassemble most of a car. Three hundred dollars on the Snap-on truck might allow you to change sparkplugs??
 

stage20

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All of them...
But
If you are just starting out I would look at other options, unless you have a rich uncle. You can do a lot more fixing with the less expensive tools than a few top shelf brands. For $300 of select tools from other places I can disassemble most of a car. Three hundred dollars on the Snap-on truck might allow you to change sparkplugs??

Good info here. The new harbor freight pro ratchets....on sale....use a 20% off coupon. Or go to the flea market and buy used name brand. I wouldn't buy a snap on new as my first purchase unless you have unlimited funds
 

Whchua

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I was In your shoes few year ago, I started with CM and slowly upgraded to a few brands now. I also try to check out eBay for used snap on, many time you will get one in decent price.
 

Empty Pockets

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My go to ratchets are Wright 4400 1/2 drive, comfort grip, and Wright 3400 3/8 drive, comfort grip. I've had both for decades, and the grips are still firmly attached.

As several others have said, HF's Pittsburgh Pro ratchets are decent for the price. buy a couple and see what suits your needs before going to a truck brand ratchet
 

MrGiggles

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I really like my HF composite ratchets. The soft handle is just so easy on the hands.

Comfort grips aren't anything to worry about on quality ratchets. Even the HF ones are tough.
 

gdpolk

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Honestly, I'd just pick up a few styles from the Harbor Freight Professional line and see what fits your needs best. From there look into all the quality brands, find some used at a good price, and only upgrade on the ones you use the most. I find a long flex head in 3/8" to be my most valuable, but it's very nice to have options, even as a DIY guy. The GearWrench 120xp line is pretty fantastic for what it's worth and you can get a 4-piece set for about the same coin as one SnapOn.
 

davethorik

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I know they don't get mentioned here a lot, but I'm a big fan of the Proto XL ratchets. Only 45 teeth but they work so nicely and are heavy and tough. I'm also a big fan of Wright. I have long handle 1/2 ratchets in both flavors.
 

firebox40dash5

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I don't own a single standard (5/8/10") ratchet, and I've never missed having one. Go-to is a locking flex, and I have silly-long (8" and 15" respectively) fixed ratchets in 1/4 and 3/8. I think I have at least a stubby 3/8 as well... can you tell how much I need it?

I like ratchets as long as practical, more torque with less force, means less likely to fly off and bust my hands. And a locking flex, on top of being longer, will get into more spots than a standard one.

I have Matco/Armstrong for the thinner heads. I started out with regular flex Dual 90s and sold them to get ones that lock... but admittedly the SO were better built.
 

M6erfan

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Carlyle makes a very nice 3/8" locking flex with QR, it covers about 95% of what you'll need in 3/8 drive... Great deal when you can get them on sale
 

T45

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So, never having done automotive work...

I'd agree to get some HF ratchets either composite or professional, and use them a while on your projects. Then upgrade, once you have specific knowledge of your own personal preferences and the needs of your job(s).

The problem with a blanket recommendation by brand--especially truck tools--is that they make a ton of SKUs and the wrong version of the tool is sometimes more of a hassle, than an inferior brand.

The other issue is the cost, which makes it quite expensive to keep churning thru them. You'll tie up a bunch of capital and probably time, shipping, and fees not to mention depreciation.

- do you like round or pear or roto head?
- do you hate or prefer flex heads?
- do you like longer or smaller ratchets?
- do you have a choice, or does workflow dictate certain things?
- what size are your bit sockets, and how do you prefer to use them?

etc. {And then com back and re-read this thread, and its many excellent examples and good ideas for decent ratchets of a particular siz/shape.}
 
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L.Cheapo

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The best ratchet is the one that feels the best in your hands and is not something you have to worry about failing and hurting you when it does. For me, that's old school Snap On hard handles. I don't much care for their new style comfort grip.
 
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stage20

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Find one that you like for what you're doing. I don't believe there is a one size fits all ratchet. Don't be surprised if you end up 3, 4 or 5 ratchets that you use on a regualr basis.

I'm very happy with this particular Cman model and I use mine alot.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-...lerId=Sears&prdNo=23&blockNo=23&blockType=G23

has such a large head for a stubby

a better version of this design would be to buy a quality used ratchet which more refer to as "3/8 anvil in a 1/4 body. get in for tight spaces but have the anvil for your most common sockets.

i have an sk and love it. use it for all kinds of projects
 

Nero

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I know they don't get mentioned here a lot, but I'm a big fan of the Proto XL ratchets. Only 45 teeth but they work so nicely and are heavy and tough. I'm also a big fan of Wright. I have long handle 1/2 ratchets in both flavors.

Do you have a model number for those by chance? I might be interested in trying those out since I'm just starting out as a tech.
 

bdelmar2

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Snap on ratchets are worth the money - if you do this for a living.

Otherwise not so much.

The exception to this is resale value. A used Snap on ratchet is worth about half or better of what it cost new, other brands don't really hold their value like that.

I don't think most people sell their ratchets so this probably isn't a huge factor from a practical standpoint.

I'm not big on the comfort grip thing. I have a couple and yeah, they feel kind of nice when you first pick them up, but I don't really pay much attention to it after that.

Its not like I'm sitting in it all day or sleeping in it. From a functional standpoint it doesn't matter, unless it slides around or comes off, and if its not there it can't do that, so I'd skip it. The couple I do have are because the truck only had ones with comfort grip when I decided I needed them.


As far as style of ratchet goes, at least for me, I look at what I need it to do and how close it is at hand, along with what sockets I have handy.

If I have to go out of my work area to do something and I'm not sure what I'll need, I'll grab a long handle flex head snap on 3/8" ratchet, snap short and medium extensions on it, and grab a rack of metric mid length sockets. That will cover me for most situations, is compact, and easy to keep track of.

If I'm pulling an engine, I will already have universal (flex) impact sockets out and in use, so if I need a ratchet I'm going to grab a long handled straight one. Because flex head ratchets and universal sockets don't play well together and I'm likely to pinch the living Sh** out of my hand.


So in my opinion, you are going to need both straight and flex ratchets. Flex are handier, but won't work in every situation but will for most unless you use a lot of universal sockets.

Most of the mechanics I know, or have known, will grab a long handled flex ratchet by preference the majority of the time as well.

I've never had problems with a flex head ratchet flopping around while I'm using it. You would have to be way off from any practical angle for this to happen - or using a universal on it.


I also prefer a long handle over a standard one. The more leverage I have, the less force I have to exert, and if I have to exert more force I can with a longer handle.

I don't recall ever changing from a long handle to a regular handle because I needed to, I have had to switch to a longer handle.

Stubby ratchets are also very handy. As time goes by vehicle size goes down (ask an older tall person if in doubt), and engineers/manufacturers keep jamming more in.

A flex head stubby is almost a requirement anymore. If space is that tight you aren't likely to be using universal sockets.

You definitely want good high quality long handled ratchets, if one breaks while you are leaning on it hard you can get hurt, possibly badly.

With a stubby you could get by with a cheaper (but still decent) version, if used properly or at least reasonably you won't be generating enough force to hurt yourself badly though burning and pinching are still options.


Tooth count, like I said, things are getting tighter and I have on occasion wished for a shorter swing arc, but I don't recall ever wanting a bigger one. So all things equal otherwise, more is better.

I haven't really studied the matter by getting a bunch of different tooth count ratchets and testing them in various situations, but the 80 snap on's seem to work fine, the craftsman raised panel do not.

Also can't say I've ever found the shape of the head to be an issue either, don't care if its round or pear or whatever as long as it does its job. Rotoheads do have to be round I guess, but other than that I can't see it making any kind of practical difference.


Just starting out building a tool collection I would say its a good idea to cover as many bases as you can for as little expenditure as possible. Unless you are rich of course, but if you are rich pay somebody else to work on your vehicles.



My suggestion would be:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V5G7LU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

or if you want to spend a little more:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BTEXPDK/?tag=atomicindus08-20


If you really want Snap on, the first one I'd get would be an FLF80.

Used is around $75, a little less than the set of 4 gearwrench 84t new

New is $140, about the same price as the set of 120t gearwrench.

EDIT: Add about $15 or so for comfort grip it looks like.


If I was starting out I'd get the gearwrench 84t set, it gives me the long handle flex head which covers the most ground, and a stubby for tight areas, plus a 1/4" flex head and a 1/2" flex head, all of reasonable quality, lifetime warranty, availability, etc..., for roughly the price of a single Snap on.

Later on if you find yourself doing this for a living, or even a lot as a hobby or whatever you can always upgrade after you have all the other tools necessary to do this type of work.
 
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CNGsaves

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OP . . . you've got the good advice above . . . all in little bits.

First, when starting out with nothing, buy the bargains first . . . . like . .
. . . . HF composite ratchets (use HF coupon thread by LeftyZ for 20% and 25% off)
. . . . Craftsman (if dirt cheap), or the better new thin models
. . . . GearWrench (watch for sales at Advance Auto, web, etc)
. . . . garage sale/estate sale . . . SK, Wright, Proto, and SnapOn if you're lucky

Handle preference and head-style will lead you to particular brands that will become your favorites. Pear-head style ratchets might be what you like, or round-head might be more desired.

Personally, I like round-head like the quality ones from SK.
 

ScottsGT

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OP . . . you've got the good advice above . . . all in little bits.

First, when starting out with nothing, buy the bargains first . . . . like . .
. . . . HF composite ratchets (use HF coupon thread by LeftyZ for 20% and 25% off)
. . . . Craftsman (if dirt cheap), or the better new thin models
. . . . GearWrench (watch for sales at Advance Auto, web, etc)
. . . . garage sale/estate sale . . . SK, Wright, Proto, and SnapOn if you're lucky

Handle preference and head-style will lead you to particular brands that will become your favorites. Pear-head style ratchets might be what you like, or round-head might be more desired.

Personally, I like round-head like the quality ones from SK.

Exactly what I did for my son just starting out in an auto tech class. I bought him HF and a cheapie stubby like I bought at AutoZone. He always goes to mine when using them, so he had to have his own.
I'm buying him Snap On sockets and wrenches and I told him after he used them for a few months to then go select one off the truck.
 

pstemari

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Bare tool has no battery or charger, not terribly useful if you're starting from scratch like the OP.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

Adam.C

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I'm just starting to build a tool set for car repair and a future project car. My immediate needs are to do some repairs but next year I want to get a project car to eventually take to the track.

I'm not planning on going all snap on due to expense, but for certain things, like a dual 80 ratchet, by all accounts it seems worth it.

So, never having done automotive work, can I get away with an FHF80A (Standard handle comfort grip flex head) as my one ratchet?

Would I be better off ignoring flex head and getting a standard regular grip with longer handle (FL80)?

Also, I've had my issues with "comfort grip" type tools. Not snap-on specific, but the grips coming loose or coming off. I kinda was hoping a flex head would be available in a regular handle but doesn't seem like that's the case.

Over time I could see myself adding more ratchets but for now, I have a lot of stuff to buy so trying not to go overboard and dealing with immediate needs first...

I think if you are serious about auto repair and motor sports, you'll regret not buying Snap On later. That said, a SO ratchet wouldn't be my first choice for you.

If you are interested in my recommendations PM me. Otherwise, the first ratchet you should buy from Snap On is the 26" long flex SHLF80A. This does a job no other tool does quite as well. Next would be the FLHF80 (may have that wrong) its the long flex head 3/8 ratchet. Shorter ratchets and extensions don't need to be Snap On.
 

NUTTSGT

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has such a large head for a stubby

a better version of this design would be to buy a quality used ratchet which more refer to as "3/8 anvil in a 1/4 body. get in for tight spaces but have the anvil for your most common sockets.

i have an sk and love it. use it for all kinds of projects

While you might think the head is too large, the entire ratchet fits nicely in my hand and is quite comfortable. Putting the handle one/two click(s) back seems to be an "ergonomic" postion and all I have to to is literally twist my wrist to ratchet, no need to move your entire arm.

If you ever stop by a Sears store (before they are gone) I'd suggest you pick one up and try out the feel of it, you may be surprised. :beer:
 

Adam.C

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OP . . . you've got the good advice above . . . all in little bits.

First, when starting out with nothing, buy the bargains first . . . . like . .
. . . . HF composite ratchets (use HF coupon thread by LeftyZ for 20% and 25% off)
. . . . Craftsman (if dirt cheap), or the better new thin models
. . . . GearWrench (watch for sales at Advance Auto, web, etc)
. . . . garage sale/estate sale . . . SK, Wright, Proto, and SnapOn if you're lucky

Handle preference and head-style will lead you to particular brands that will become your favorites. Pear-head style ratchets might be what you like, or round-head might be more desired.

Personally, I like round-head like the quality ones from SK.

With respect, this was good advice in 1970. It really depends on what you are working on, right? And what your expectations are. Modern cars require a plethora of specialty bit sockets. Slightly older modern cars need a plethora of Snap On bit sockets. The simple VW wheel bearing job I did last week required:
27mm 12 Pt semi deep impact
12mm stubby triple square
Stubby T60
11mm bleeder wrench
21mm 12pt socket
Swivel t27 (or long t27)
7mm stubby allen socket
Angle sensing torque wrench

The ratchets I used most were my std 3/8", my *** saving SHLF80A, and for reinstalltion, stubby flex 1/2" drive, which I flexed to operate like a speeder.

Pro mechanics may read this and say "yep, all standard stuff". Does Craftsman or Gearwrench even make any of this? When I started wrenching on my own cars 30 years ago, craftsman was all I needed. Those days/cars are gone.
 
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M6erfan

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If you are interested in my recommendations PM me. Otherwise, the first ratchet you should buy from Snap On is the 26" long flex SHLF80A. This does a job no other tool does quite as well. Next would be the FLHF80 (may have that wrong) its the long flex head 3/8 ratchet. Shorter ratchets and extensions don't need to be Snap On.

Adam, I have to disagree here. While the Snap On SHLF80a is indeed a fine ratchet, it would be about LAST on my list of recommendations for the OP. I do restorations as a hobby on both cars/motorcycles and maintain about 8 cars and light trucks for family/friends. A ratchet like that is used pretty seldom in my world. I consider it somewhat of a "specialty" ratchet, and at around $200 it certainly wouldn't be on my hot list of recommended ratchet types for someone starting out & "never having done automotive work"...

The long flex 3/8" recommendation I whole heartedly agree with! I use that style ratchet every day and IMO would be a MUCH more practical choice for the OP...

:beer:
 
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brooksdr

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I think if I had just one ratchet I would get a FH80. It would work 95% of the time.
 

CJM8515

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One ratchet, the snap on of course. But if you arent looking to spend that sorta coin, the husky branded ones at home depot at worth it. They are made by the same company as gear wrench, but have a quick release and 72t vs 84t. I used them every day for eons with no issues.
 

Adam.C

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Adam, I have to disagree here. While the Snap On SHLF80a is indeed a fine ratchet, it would be about LAST on my list of recommendations for the OP. I do restorations as a hobby on both cars/motorcycles and maintain about 8 cars and light trucks for family/friends. A ratchet like that is used pretty seldom in my world. I consider it somewhat of a "specialty" ratchet, and at around $200 it certainly wouldn't be on my hot list of recommended ratchet types for someone starting out & "never having done automotive work"...

The long flex 3/8" recommendation I whole heartedly agree with! I use that style ratchet every day and IMO would be a MUCH more practical choice for the OP...

:beer:

You are certainly entitled to your opinion and I respect your experience.

For the wheel hub job I did recently, a very simple basic procedure as an example, how would the OP undo the hub nut How about the caliper backer bolts? I couldnt get my gun on the backers. He probably doesn't have a gun, and may not anytime soon.

Wheel hub needed about 400ftlbs to remove. Backers were maybe 150-200ftlbs.

No disrespect. Not trying to nullify any other opinions. But I'm not sure how my work and opinions always seem so different from everyone else's. I do wonder who is doing what. I think it would be helpful to talk more specifically about the jobs we do.

If I had to swap struts, I would have done exactly what I just did, just gone a bit further. So this was a pretty basic task.
 

M6erfan

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You are certainly entitled to your opinion and I respect your experience.

For the wheel hub job I did recently, a very simple basic procedure as an example, how would the OP undo the hub nut How about the caliper backer bolts? I couldnt get my gun on the backers. He probably doesn't have a gun, and may not anytime soon.

Wheel hub needed about 400ftlbs to remove. Backers were maybe 150-200ftlbs.

No disrespect. Not trying to nullify any other opinions. But I'm not sure how my work and opinions always seem so different from everyone else's. I do wonder who is doing what. I think it would be helpful to talk more specifically about the jobs we do.

If I had to swap struts, I would have done exactly what I just did, just gone a bit further. So this was a pretty basic task.

Maybe I look to much into context of the OP. He's asking about A (singular) socket wrench to start his tool kit with. Again, a 26" 1/2 drive wouldn't be my choice in that context.

...My immediate needs are to do some repairs but next year I want to get a project car to eventually take to the track.

...So, never having done automotive work, can I get away with an FHF80A (Standard handle comfort grip flex head) as my one ratchet?

...Over time I could see myself adding more ratchets but for now, I have a lot of stuff to buy so trying not to go overboard and dealing with immediate needs first...


Again, I try to frame my answers/opinions in context to the question...

I've done the same job as your example above, with a 24" breaker bar. Would it have been easier with the Snap On ratchet? Probably but I get by, fairly easily. Also, as much work as I do as a hobbiest, how often does that job come up? Once every few years?

Anyway, I too respect your opinions and advice, but we'll indeed have to agree to disagree here.

:thumbup:
 
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