Which regulator/filter ?

[Relex]

Last year I got a Speedaire 60 gal compressor for $250 and up until yesterday I was running a Craftsman regulator/filter until it broke.

What is your best bang for your buck regulator/filter? I've done a lot of searching around and really haven't found a whole lot.

 

[pattenp]

I got mine from Northern Tool, but I think any of the ones from HD(Husky), Lowes(Kobalt) or even Harborfreight are okay for the money.

 

[GarageEnvy]

Ebay for Wilkerson, Norgren or Parker. There's plenty of new ones that never were installed for sale. I've bought 6 of them now and typically pay about $30-$40 a piece.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Ebay for Wilkerson, Norgren or Parker. There's plenty of new ones that never were installed for sale. I've bought 6 of them now and typically pay about $30-$40 a piece.

^^^^^^^^^^^
THIS

Build it up out of pieces from brand names and you cannot go wrong.

Charles

 

[Relex]

Thanks for the reply and now I have a couple more questions.

What's the max psi I can put in the tank? I want the pump to kick on sooner than what it's set at now for a couple of my impacts. I adjusted the bottom screw a little and it did kick the pump on sooner but it wanted to go past 150 psi that it stopped at before so I just turned it off.... I wanted to be safe since I don't know much a about compressors.

 

[pattenp]

I wouldn't push it pass the rated 150 PSI. Why do you feel you need higher PSI? Sounds to me you are having a volume shortage vs a pressure shortage. My impact wrenches operate at 90PSI. They actually say max 90PSI.

 

[MoonRise]

Thanks for the reply and now I have a couple more questions.

What's the max psi I can put in the tank? I want the pump to kick on sooner than what it's set at now for a couple of my impacts. I adjusted the bottom screw a little and it did kick the pump on sooner but it wanted to go past 150 psi that it stopped at before so I just turned it off.... I wanted to be safe since I don't know much a about compressors.

Per the nameplate for the tank, max pressure is 150 psi. (as stated).

Do NOT raise the max pressure setting on the pressure switch.

If you need 'more' air, then you need more air.

Which you get by getting a bigger pump, or a bigger tank, or higher tank pressure (but only for what the tank was designed and 'certified/rated' for!!!!!! ) or all of the above.

Or manifolding several air compressors together.

But do NOT just go and raise the pressure cut-off switch setting. If the tank nameplate says 150 psi MAX, then 150 PSI max it is.

 

[Torque1st]

Get rid of the filter/regulator at the tank. Use a point of use filter/regulator if absolutely necessary.

Reset that pressure adjustment screw back where it was.

Most home shop air tools are designed to operate at 70PSI to 140PSI from a single stage compressor but are 'rated' for torque/rpm/power/etc at 90PSI as a standard value. Some tools may require a regulated pressure supply.

 

[Relex]

Thanks for the input everyone.

 

[6-Speed]

Wilkerson makes some fine filter/regulators that are made in the USA.

http://www.wilkersoncorp.com/products/filterReg.shtml

 

[Todd.Brock]

I first used an SMC regulator that crapped out in about 6months. I went with a Milton Hiflow regulator, filter, bracket and gauge for about 100 bucks. Its al made in the US as well. Nice stuff, glad I broke down and bought it. That Wilkerson stuff is pretty nice looking though. Had never heard of them until now!

 

[Beetle]

Maybe I expect to much but I thought a water separator would take all the water out. I have a Kobalt and it has never accumulated enough water in the bowl to drain. Sometimes a few bubbles will form along the glass but that's it. When using the air nozzle to blow off something the air has enough moisture in it to show up on the surface of what I'm blowing off.

 

[1967marti]

I agree with torque...
I would use the filters at the use points.
The water in the air will have cooled and therefore will make it easier to catch in a filter if it is further from the tank.
Doing this will also allow you to have one drop for clean air (painting, etc..) and another with an oilier for your air tools. It may be a more $$$ than a single filter on the output of the tank, but it will work better.

As for filters I've heard great things about the motorguard brand of filters.

If you do use separate drops a cool trick is to use different color air hoses for your clean and dirty air supplies and/or different air fittings. Keeps you from accidentally using a oiled tool hose for your paint gun

 

[Torque1st]

Maybe I expect to much but I thought a water separator would take all the water out. I have a Kobalt and it has never accumulated enough water in the bowl to drain. Sometimes a few bubbles will form along the glass but that's it. When using the air nozzle to blow off something the air has enough moisture in it to show up on the surface of what I'm blowing off.

The water separator will only remove liquid water. It will not remove water vapor. That is why you need METAL air distribution lines to cool the air and condense out the water vapor and drain it away. To do that the air distribution lines must be installed in a specific tried and tested manner worked out over the last 100 years or so. There are people that will tell you that you don't need to follow those methods but they are full of something.

A lubricator should ONLY be installed at the point of use. The atomized oil 'fog' will only carry 10 feet or so down the line before it condenses on the sides of the line to form puddles. Never install a 'central' lubricator on your air distribution system. Those are intended for use on a pneumatic machine where there are multiple valves and cylinders within a short distance or for a specific tool. I use a short 3' hose 'whip' with an inline lubricator on the end of my supply line right before the tool. That avoids the dirty and clean air hose problem and delivers properly lubricated air to the tool.

Many consumer grade compressors use a common point on the receiver to accept air from the compressor and provide air for distribution. Unfortunately that results in superheated air saturated with moisture entering the air lines or air distribution system. In a properly designed air receiver the heated air from the compressor is directed towards the sides of the receiver giving it time to cool and condense water into the receiver tank where it can be collected and drained. It is obviously more expensive to install two threaded air ports on the tank (besides the drain) so that important function of the receiver is lost.

 

[pcmeiners]

"Maybe I expect to much but I thought a water separator would take all the water out."

On my 2 stage rig I have a large cooler between the first an second stage (intercooler). In the summer I get a cup of water every 20 minutes from just that cooler; that is about 1/2 the moisture contained in the air. A basic water separator collects a tiny fraction of the moisture in the compressed air system.

You need something like this to remove some of the moisture...

http://s852.photobucket.com/albums/ab84/pcmeiners/?action=view&current=DSC_00640001.jpg&newest=1

 

[6-Speed]

I use a short 3' hose 'whip' with an inline lubricator on the end of my supply line right before the tool. That avoids the dirty and clean air hose problem and delivers properly lubricated air to the tool.

What are some good in-line pneumatic lubricators?

 

[Torque1st]

What are some good in-line pneumatic lubricators?

I bought mine from HD but most tool stores will have them. There isn't much to them so one brand is about as good as another. Some are plastic, some are metal. Unless you abuse them they should all hold up fairly well. I would suggest using air tool oil in them and not messing with the factory oil delivery setting.

This one from Grainger looks exactly like mine:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WILKERSON-In-Line-Lubricator-1A260

 

[Mmfh]

To do that the air distribution lines must be installed in a specific tried and tested manner worked out over the last 100 years or so.

Any pics of this setup? I've been searching for the ultimate way of setting up my air system and still have not found anything I really like.

 

[6-Speed]

I bought mine from HD but most tool stores will have them. There isn't much to them so one brand is about as good as another. Some are plastic, some are metal. Unless you abuse them they should all hold up fairly well. I would suggest using air tool oil in them and not messing with the factory oil delivery setting.

This one from Grainger looks exactly like mine:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WILKERSON-In-Line-Lubricator-1A260

I don't mind paying a little more for a Wilkerson; Zoro offers the Wilkerson for much less than Grainger. Do you have a coupler connected directly to one end of the lubricator?

 

[Torque1st]

Air line diagram and info:
http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/airline-piping-diagram.pdf

I am not affiliated with any company but TP Tools also has materials and kits:
http://www.tptools.com/

I have a male coupler on one end of the lubricator then out of the other end of the lubricator the short hose whip with a female coupler on the end. When in use I plug the assy into the end of my air hose then plug in the tool. Only the short hose gets oily. When not in use the lubricator assy is plugged back into itself to keep it clean and hangs next to my air tools.

 

[6-Speed]

How well are these in-line lubricators sealed; do they leak oil in the lines and externally from the fill?

 

[ARAMP1]

Wilkerson makes some fine filter/regulators that are made in the USA.

http://www.wilkersoncorp.com/products/filterReg.shtml

Where did you get those brackets to bolt the reg/filter into position? I can't find them anywhere.

 

[6-Speed]

Where did you get those brackets to bolt the reg/filter into position? I can't find them anywhere.

You can buy Wilkerson products including the brackets at Zoro Tools and Grainger. I bought the brackets and joining connectors from Zoro and the end blocks from Grainger.

 

[Torque1st]

How well are these in-line lubricators sealed; do they leak oil in the lines and externally from the fill?

I have had no signs of leakage at all other than the obvious oil transfer down the line during operation. They do an excellent job.