Indexmill
Well-known member
The size that fits. 
Which size C-clamp for disc brakes?
- Thread starter Wamsutta
- Start date
Joemctag
Well-known member
What I’ve always used, too. If you buy cheaply “11R” clamps, and use them for clamping other stuff too, you’ll find out why you want to go with genuine Vise-Grips.
This is true. FYI.... I too have the four piece set. They will arrive with four of them in one box with just a piece of paper separating them. It took two tries till I accepted the fact they would be chipped upon arrival. They may also be "a little rough", using the thick layer of paint to try to cover it. One other thing to take note of if it matters to you... "Country of Origin (subject to change): China".
Qualitytools
Well-known member
I didn't know Lang made 2 different sizes, I have the 279
dubdoc
Well-known member
Buckgnarly
Well-known member
Wrong tool. That's for screw in rears.
dubdoc
Well-known member
It's for both. I've done a number of both types.
JRC3
Well-known member
I have that, for regular calipers the quick release C clamp is faster and easier and my go-to.
I also have one of these I use half the time, depending on mood I guess.
There have been times I've pushed one caliper and left the clamp/tool in place and then pushed the other side...Like if you're having something turned or waiting for parts or whatever.
ovilla
Well-known member
There are a lot of tools and tips. Here's mine. If it is a fixed caliper such as an early Land Rover you'll need a c-clamp or brake tool. If it is a floating caliper I always pry the caliper against the pad and/or rotor to seat the pistons before I remove any hardware. It's usually a pry bar with a hook on the end or a stout flat blade screwdriver. It has worked every time I've done it.
I use what my uncle used when he taught me as a teen: A c-clamp and a metal coat hanger. Bigger is better with the c-clamps (bigger levers are easier to use and less likely to bend).
Not doing this for a living, of course.
Mike
Not doing this for a living, of course.
Mike
I tried the C clamps, channel locks and got tired of bulky tools around.. Now i use the simple light weight OEM tools pad spreader.. Cheap, lightweight, fast.. 10-15 dollars on amazon.. Now if youre doing big calipers, maybe get bigger stronger tools.. For average regular cars, trucks.. This works.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMHKRC/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMHKRC/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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ssdave
Banned
From all the responses, I'm obviously doing this wrong. I just use a pry tool, push them back before I disassemble and remove the pads. Start with one, pry back what it will do, insert two pry bars opposing each other, work them against each other, by then the calipers are usually fully back and ready to remove and replace the pads. If one piston sticks and won't go back, pull the caliper and replace it too.
Ign
Well-known member
I typically can get away with 4". For larger bodied calipers I may need 6".
I don't understand basic C-clamps, too slow and primitive. I don't trust PLASTIC push buttons.
If dual piston I just use the old pad to span across both.
Honestly can't say I've ever had to work with a 4 piston.
I also honestly don't know how anyone survives without sliding F-clamps, they're the best of all worlds: fast, durable, significant clamping force. Oh and fast. With no plastic. Did I mention fast? Plus useful for a million other projects?
Done it this way for well over a decade (shrug)
I don't understand basic C-clamps, too slow and primitive. I don't trust PLASTIC push buttons.
If dual piston I just use the old pad to span across both.
Honestly can't say I've ever had to work with a 4 piston.
I also honestly don't know how anyone survives without sliding F-clamps, they're the best of all worlds: fast, durable, significant clamping force. Oh and fast. With no plastic. Did I mention fast? Plus useful for a million other projects?
Done it this way for well over a decade (shrug)
JOE.G
Well-known member
I do brakes all the time on all types of vehicles and equipment, I use Vice Grips for the push in type. I use 2 different sizes depending on the caliper.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBBH/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBBK/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBBH/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBBK/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I just use a large channellock pliers. Works perfect every time and only takes a few seconds. Just be gentle so the piston goes straight back in. If you feel it start to bind, just slightly adjust the jaws of the pliers to get a more centered squeeze on the piston.... presto!
Attachments
If dual piston I just use the old pad to span across both...
I also honestly don't know how anyone survives without sliding F-clamps, they're the best of all worlds: fast, durable, significant clamping force. Oh and fast. With no plastic. Did I mention fast? Plus useful for a million other projects?
Done it this way for well over a decade (shrug)
Yes, using the old pad, even for a single cylinder, makes a huge difference.
Wow, that f-clamp is something I've never seen before, but looks like a huge improvement over regular c-clamps!
Mike
Ign
Well-known member
You can't walk into a welding shop without tripping over a dozen of them. Bessey is a major name but they're available from Strong Hand for much less and generic import from your local TSC for less, if up front in the seasonal sale bins. Pretty sure TSC will have Hobart-branded back in the welding section, but prices aren't great.
The cheapies don't always slide as well on the rail, but they seem to work fine overall.
I've got a half-dozen of the Strong Hand 4.5" alone; they're light duty but so handy for so many things. However the 6.5" seems to run only ~$1 more
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T1OOYS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I really don't know how anyone could have even a hobby shop or hobby garage and not have a small selection of sliding F-clamps (granted if woodworking is your thing they'll dent it 'cause they're not rubber-padded and they exert a lot of force for a small contact patch). The brand names can be handed down to your great grandchildren if treated with a modicum of care -- I've never personally managed to "damage" one. The biggest danger is probably popping off the swivel foot and losing it (Bessey's Morpad fixes this but they're $$, but also sa-weet)
Well, just did a quick search at the Lowes site, they show the woodworking style. My FIL was a carpenter and had tons of those, I have some cheap ones from HF. I never knew they were called F-Clamps, and I'd never seen the ones with the screw and lever like C-Clamps.
Learn something new every day!
Mike
Learn something new every day!
Mike
98ssuck
Well-known member
Twist them in with long needle nose pliers