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Which Snap On work surface should I buy?

Evan(CA)

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I normally wouldn't splurge on a Snap On work surface but in this case it makes sense. I got a killer deal on a KRL7002 and I get student pricing on all parts for it. The rep is even giving me a free lock and keys and is doubling up my BB slides on all my drawers for free! I've spent some cash with him so far and have another large order coming but still It's very cool of him. Back to the work surfaces. Here is the box they will go on.

DSCN2233_zpsa2b831fe.jpg


SS top for 453.00 - This is my favorite as far as looks go but I'm not sure how it will look after a couple years of use.
KRSST761_zpsb24d992f.jpg


Steel coated top for 453.00 - I think this might be the most durable and practical but with the box being yellow and chrome I'm not sure how it will look. I'm I crazy for even considering looks here:headscrat
KRBLT1023v2_zps5ea7b593.jpg


Wood top for 240.00 - The cheapest option but I'd be worried about staining and while I don't hate the wood look it's not my favorite by any means.
KRWT7002A_zps2c3c56c3.jpg
 
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liliysdad

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I would do the wood, and not because its cheaper. I simply like wood work surfaces better than metal. Quieter, less vibration, etc.

That being said, you can get butcher block work surface a lot cheaper than that.
 
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Evan(CA)

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I would do the wood, and not because its cheaper. I simply like wood work surfaces better than metal. Quieter, less vibration, etc.

That being said, you can get butcher block work surface a lot cheaper than that.

How much cheaper? Does it come varnished? 240 doesn't sound bad for something that will be delivered ready to bolt on. Especially when he's giving me a new lock, 2 keys and 5 sets of BB slides for free and would probably install it all if I asked. Though I've bought and am buying far more than this top.
 

ChevyEFI

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The black will be easiest to clean, and will probably never have a glare issue while you're working on small metal parts.

It's not the best "Look" but if you blacked those handles & corner guards, it would all look quite good together.
 

firebox40dash5

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How much cheaper? Does it come varnished? 240 doesn't sound bad for something that will be delivered ready to bolt on. Especially when he's giving me a new lock, 2 keys and 5 sets of BB slides for free and would probably install it all if I asked. Though I've bought and am buying far more than this top.

I've got a chunk of 3/4" cabinet-grade plywood on top of mine, I picked up a partial sheet for free out of a house cleanup, but worst case it's like $50 a sheet or less. I've put about 2 hours into cutting it down on a table saw, and using some kinda all-in-one stain/sealer Minwax stuff on it, which was like $10. It's not 2" thick and it doesn't say Snap-On, but it protects the top of my box, and I won't cry if I totally trash it. :lol:

If I were blowing $250-450 on something, it would be one of the metal ones.
 

zruvalcaba

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How much cheaper? Does it come varnished? 240 doesn't sound bad for something that will be delivered ready to bolt on. Especially when he's giving me a new lock, 2 keys and 5 sets of BB slides for free and would probably install it all if I asked. Though I've bought and am buying far more than this top.

Check this place out.
http://www.perfectplank.com

Personally I like the wood surface as well. These guys will make a plank, probably thicker than the SO one, and made of better quality wood for probably half the cost. 6" x 25 x 1 7/8" is only $140.
 

JJThrasher

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I'd get the SS one, but that's just me. Or MDF. Looks like ****, but works decent and is dirt cheap.
 
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Evan(CA)

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The top of my box is roughly 54"x29" so getting material that size isn't that cheap. I'd want it cut to size perfectly and I don't have the tools to do it. I'd also want it it sanded and covered in something. I've checked out a lot of the DIY top threads and I just don't want to spend the time making it. I've got a good deal worked out with the SO guy so I'm just going to go the easy route and buy one of the 3 they sell. The question is which
 

Exceller8

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I like the SS top. Great for spills and stains and you can always sand it down a bit if it starts looking ratty. Not so great for dents though...
 

hoffman912

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I would go with wood.

a) better to work on (preference thing though)

b) you can always refinish a wood surface. If the metal gets beat to **** its dented and looks bad over time. well worn wood with patina always looks good. and if you think it looks like **** later down the road with stains, you can always sand and refinish wood. it is also more forgiving to wear etc, and you can flip it over have it look as good as new with the same hard wood surface thats nicer to work on imho.

as an extension of my point b, i present to you:

c) wabi sabi.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wabi-sabi
http://www.nobleharbor.com/tea/chado/WhatIsWabi-Sabi.htm

d) metal pieces are easier lost on metal tops. silver/metallic/black screws, nuts etc all stand out on wood.
 

Bouchard93

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The black will be easiest to clean, and will probably never have a glare issue while you're working on small metal parts.

It's not the best "Look" but if you blacked those handles & corner guards, it would all look quite good together.

x2 :thumbup: That is what I would do.
 

kiwiwrench

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We have stainless and wooden work surfaces at my workshop. Stainless looks good new, bad with one or two scratches, and fine again with enough scratches to give it character. Same with wood I'd say. Now to the important stuff...
Stainless is very hard and easy to keep clean if you're working with fuel, oil, solvent etc. wood is easier on your parts and tools that you're working with on the work surface. Is a sheet of stainless worth that much??? I think not. Bang for your buck, more work has gone into laminating that maple top. The stainless bench could be made by any light engineering company quite cheaply.
 

Todd.Brock

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Edit...nevermind. Why is he giving you ball bearing slides ? Shouldn't it already have BB slides ?

My vote is for butcher block or stainless steel. I do like the rhino lined looking stuff for durability and hiding messes.
 
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JJThrasher

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Edit...nevermind. Why is he giving you ball bearing slides ? Shouldn't it already have BB slides ?

I think he's giving him the second set for the tall drawers. Most of those deep drawers only have 1 slide per side with holes for a second set if you want to add them.

I'm still wondering why it didn't come with a lock though.
 
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senor fozz

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I like the SS top. Great for spills and stains and you can always sand it down a bit if it starts looking ratty. Not so great for dents though...

I have seen far to many SS tops with the dents on the corner of the tops. I vote for wood.
 

altec876

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My nephew has that black top and is a pain to clean its like a bed liner texture . I like the wood myself easy to fix up and clean.
 

bobcatdan

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I have seen far to many SS tops with the dents on the corner of the tops. I vote for wood.

Anybody using the top of their box as a beat on **** workbench is an idiot. I use the top of my box as a place to pile tools and parts to keep real workbenches clear of that stuff like that.
 

zkling

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1st choice--> solid wood (ex butcherblock)
2nd --> Laminate countertop or the like, good for wiping clean not so much for hammering on, kinda like a mix between wood and stainless
3rd--> Stainless, dents scratches, not much part protection, cold in the winter

Long distance --> Steel
 

lugnut71

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I would not go with bedlined one, impossible to clean or wipe off. Wood is nice but go with stainless. As soon as ya get over the first scratches don't look back and just use it. After its all scratched it looks good. I just clean mine with glass cleaner.
 
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Evan(CA)

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Wood has gone from my last choice to first.....hmm decisions, decisions. Do these tops bolt on to the box or are they just a pressure fit? Do I want the original mat sandwiched in between. There is some conflicting information in a few posts.

I think he's giving him the second set for the tall drawers. Most of those deep drawers only have 1 slide per side with holes for a second set if you want to add them.

Correct.
 

TheGrooveking

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Check this place out.
http://www.perfectplank.com

Personally I like the wood surface as well. These guys will make a plank, probably thicker than the SO one, and made of better quality wood for probably half the cost. 6" x 25 x 1 7/8" is only $140.

Thank you for posting this, I'll be ordering more than Andrew pieces from them tomorrow.

TheGrooveking
 

Skin

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If you actually want to work on it and not just have a pretty display with your laptop or what not sitting there, get wood. If its for pictures, stainless.

Just a note as well stainless isn't actually a solid chunk of steel, its metal wrapped around MDF if memory serves. It will absolutely dent if you beat on it.

I wouldn't go the bed liner route simply because you cant write on it and any fluids that spill will be a huge pain to clean.
 
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Evan(CA)

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I think I've been convinced to go with the wood top. After looking around online I don't see how I can do any better than just getting the Snap On one for 240 bucks. The almost 30" depth really increases the price of material and would make some modifications required no matter what I bought. 240 bucks for something that will be delivered to my door completely finished and will fit perfect sounds like a bargain to me. So it looks like I'll be saving another 200+ bucks on the top I can go spend on more tools. Suggestions? :)
 

shockwave

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Go with the stainless steel I have had the wood and black one and ss is by far the easiest to clean and work with
 
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Evan(CA)

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Does the SS scratch easily? How easily does the wood stain? A plus for wood is silver and black fasteners are going to show up best on wood compared to either SS or coated tops. I have a writing surface on one of the drawers so that's not a concern. The SS definitely looks the best and is slightly larger overall. I'll probably end up regretting whatever top I end up with for one reason or another.
 

CWP1616L

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I think I've been convinced to go with the wood top. After looking around online I don't see how I can do any better than just getting the Snap On one for 240 bucks. The almost 30" depth really increases the price of material and would make some modifications required no matter what I bought. 240 bucks for something that will be delivered to my door completely finished and will fit perfect sounds like a bargain to me. So it looks like I'll be saving another 200+ bucks on the top I can go spend on more tools. Suggestions? :)

Make sure the UPS guy doesn't drop it on its corner - speaking from experience here. In fact, if you can be there to take it off the truck yourself, you'd be better off.
 

SteveCh

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I am partial to wood. However, any material is gonna either scratch, dent, stain or something, it is a work surface even if all you do is stack tools on it now and then. Not meant to remain pristine.....
 
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