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Which tool do I use to cut my materials?

terrific

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I've got a project coming up where I'll need to cut some steel. I don't do this often and it won't be many cuts. I'll need to cut several lengths of steel strut, which I'm not too worried about, and one pretty big rod.
The rod is solid steel, 33 mm in diameter, and 15 inches long. I believe it was originally going to be an industrial motor shaft. I need to cut it in half.

I've seen several videos where people cut long lengths of strut with a portable band saw by getting the blade set in the material and then twisting it to cut straight through. I don't think that would work well for the rod, because there's a lot more material.

Diablo's carbide reciprocating blades list 9/16 max thickness. That eliminates the sawzall.
I do not want to burn up my miter saw with a cut off disc.
A hacksaw would take so much time.

Is an angle grinder the only option?
 
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PCustoms

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Cruzan80

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If two 7.5" pieces, then a horizontal metal Bandsaw (non-portable), or a power hacksaw could both do so. If cutting it into 15" half-rounds, I would suggest a DoAll or other heavy-duty vertical metal bandsaw (these could work for either scenario).
 

KwikFab

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If cutting in half across, a bandsaw would work.

I've cut hardened tooling (4140 and other such things) on a bandsaw without issue.

33mm isn't thick at all.
 

strength_and_power

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What’s your accuracy requirement?
I’d probably opt for a quality 1/26” cut off wheel in an angle grinder, mark my material on all sides so I can maintain a moderately straight cut and let it rip.. swap to a flap wheel and deburr all the edges.
 
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terrific

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are you cutting it length wise or cross cut?
I'm hoping to end up with two 7.5" cylinders.
Is this a hardened shaft? Then a bandsaw isn't going to work well...
I'm not certain. It has a keyway cut through the entire length, so someone was able to make a cut at some point. I have read that precision cut shafts are often hardened, so I am concerned about this.
What’s your accuracy requirement?
I’d probably opt for a quality 1/26” cut off wheel in an angle grinder, mark my material on all sides so I can maintain a moderately straight cut and let it rip.. swap to a flap wheel and deburr all the edges.
It does not need to be very accurate as long as I can clean it up afterwards.
 

whateg01

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What tools do you have already? If you have a portable bandsaw, that will work depending on how hard the shaft is. Hardened doesn't necessarily mean it can't be cut with a bimetal blade, but it doesn't mean it can't either. Abrasive wheel on an angle grinder or chop saw will be loud and messy. Horizonal bandsaw is the easiest probably. A cold saw would also do it, but I'm guessing you don't have one. If you had a metal lathe you could part off the shaft.
 

PCustoms

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if I was doing that, I would either grab an angle grinder or use my abrasive chop saw . if it wasn't too hard I would use the band saw .a a quck test with a file will determine that
This.

If the file bites in, bandsaw (or plain fine pitch metal blade in recip saw) will work OK.

If the file skips over the surface it's hardened and an abrasive whelming a grinder is the way to go
 

niget2002

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I'd grab a cut off wheel in an angle grinder for most of the work. Then use a metal blade in a jigsaw to get into any corners the cutoff wheel can't reach for some reason. Clean everything up with hand files.
 

PCustoms

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I'd grab a cut off wheel in an angle grinder for most of the work. Then use a metal blade in a jigsaw to get into any corners the cutoff wheel can't reach for some reason. Clean everything up with hand files.
Huh?

Corners?

Guys cutting some unistrut and a shaft...
 
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terrific

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if I was doing that, I would either grab an angle grinder or use my abrasive chop saw . if it wasn't too hard I would use the band saw .a a quck test with a file will determine that
A few passes with a coarse file at the end of the rod did leave a small mark.
What tools do you have already? If you have a portable bandsaw, that will work depending on how hard the shaft is. Hardened doesn't necessarily mean it can't be cut with a bimetal blade, but it doesn't mean it can't either. Abrasive wheel on an angle grinder or chop saw will be loud and messy. Horizonal bandsaw is the easiest probably. A cold saw would also do it, but I'm guessing you don't have one. If you had a metal lathe you could part off the shaft.
I only have a reciprocating saw, a hacksaw, and the cheap HF angle grinder. I'm planning to use the reciprocating saw for the strut because I've heard grinders are not well suited for that task. If the portable band saw is preferred, it's ~$110 from HF, which wouldn't kill me.
 

PCustoms

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A few passes with a coarse file at the end of the rod did leave a small mark.

Check the outer diameter, may be case hardened.

I only have a reciprocating saw, a hacksaw, and the cheap HF angle grinder. I'm planning to use the reciprocating saw for the strut because I've heard grinders are not well suited for that task. If the portable band saw is preferred, it's ~$110 from HF, which wouldn't kill me.

Grinders would be fine for the strut...

I'd go buy a pack of fine tooth metal blades for the recip saw. Clamp your material and go to town. If teeth start showing wear or everything is just getting hot switch blades.
 

whateg01

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If you are going to be cutting stuff in the future, a bandsaw is a good tool to have on hand. If you'll never cut another piece of metal ever, then the angle grinder can do it. The recip saw can do it too, even with the blade you mentioned, but gawd the racket! Maybe it's more tolerable than the noise and mess an angle grinder will make.

I don't know where you heard that am angle grinder isn't suited to cutting unistrut. An angle grinder with a cutoff wheel will cut about anything you can touch with it, even hardened materials. (Yeah, there's stuff it won't cut, but this stuff isn't it.)
 

fozzy

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I see you have an angle grinder, but do you have a circular saw? I needed some short lengths of rebar for a project but my shop at the time was outfitted for wood only. A guy at the box store saw me picking up a bunch of pre-cut rebar and asked me what I was doing. He saved me a lot of money by telling me to buy full-length rebar and an abrasive blade for my Skilsaw/circular saw. The blade was incredibly reasonable and worked very well.
 
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terrific

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Check the outer diameter, may be case hardened.
It does appear to be case hardened. I'm not making any marks running along the circumference of the rod.
I see you have an angle grinder, but do you have a circular saw? I needed some short lengths of rebar for a project but my shop at the time was outfitted for wood only. A guy at the box store saw me picking up a bunch of pre-cut rebar and asked me what I was doing. He saved me a lot of money by telling me to buy full-length rebar and an abrasive blade for my Skilsaw/circular saw. The blade was incredibly reasonable and worked very well.
I do have a miter saw and a circular saw, but I don't want to burn up those motors, or ruin the base of the miter saw. I've seen a few videos with the abrasive blades and I still am a little tempted.
 
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terrific

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If you are going to be cutting stuff in the future, a bandsaw is a good tool to have on hand. If you'll never cut another piece of metal ever, then the angle grinder can do it. The recip saw can do it too, even with the blade you mentioned, but gawd the racket! Maybe it's more tolerable than the noise and mess an angle grinder will make.

I don't know where you heard that am angle grinder isn't suited to cutting unistrut. An angle grinder with a cutoff wheel will cut about anything you can touch with it, even hardened materials. (Yeah, there's stuff it won't cut, but this stuff isn't it.)
Grinders would be fine for the strut...

I'd go buy a pack of fine tooth metal blades for the recip saw. Clamp your material and go to town. If teeth start showing wear or everything is just getting hot switch blades.
It sounds like I was wrong about the grinder. I'll try the fine-tooth reciprocating blade first, and the grinder if that doesn't work out. I don't think I'll be making enough cuts to buy the band saw. Thanks!
 

Dig Doug

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I use my m12 band saw to cut Uni Strut all the time

a 4 in grinder w/ a thin blade will also cut it

abrasive chop saw w/ blade w/ cut it in half also

sawzall w/ thin metal blade will do it


skil saw w/ abrasive blade

Tons of ways to cut it
if you need them Exactly the same size, cut both sections - Make 2 cuts to a size just under the 1/2 way mark

FYI - The blade thickness will need to be worked through, so take that into account
 

fozzy

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I wouldn't have put an abrasive blade on my wood miter saw to cut steel, wouldn't want to have to deal with marring the deck or the metal shavings produced. I had zero issue putting the abrasive blade on my circular saw because it was my secondary/backup saw and I didn't need perfect cuts on the rebar for my project so I just pulled the blade guard back a little and got to work.

Like Dig Doug said above, I think you have more than one tool option to consider with the proper blade.
 

whateg01

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It sounds like I was wrong about the grinder. I'll try the fine-tooth reciprocating blade first, and the grinder if that doesn't work out. I don't think I'll be making enough cuts to buy the band saw. Thanks!
You already said the shaft wouldn't cut with a file. If you try cutting it with something other than an abrasive blade you are likely just going to kill blades. At least grind through the hard surface first!
 

RoninB4

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It does appear to be case hardened. I'm not making any marks running along the circumference of the rod.
-Case hardening is often only a 1/32" - 1/16" surface "casing", below that is softer metal. Mark with a Sharpie around the circumference, grind the groove, and a saw will get it done. I prefer a saw instead of the noise/sparks from an abrasive wheel, dimensional lengths are easier too. JMO
 
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terrific

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You already said the shaft wouldn't cut with a file. If you try cutting it with something other than an abrasive blade you are likely just going to kill blades. At least grind through the hard surface first!
-Case hardening is often only a 1/32" - 1/16" surface "casing", below that is softer metal. Mark with a Sharpie around the circumference, grind the groove, and a saw will get it done. I prefer a saw instead of the noise/sparks from an abrasive wheel, dimensional lengths are easier too. JMO
This was my plan, just based on where I could begin making marks on the flat surface. It's good to know that's how it works, though!
Porta Band saw from HF. People ignore this tool and it's shameful.
I've got to be very accurate with one. LOL
That... is a really nice cut. Well done. (y)
 

gahrajmahal

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Back when I was young and just got my Oxyacetylene torch, I would use that for every metal cutting job. That can cut pretty straight too if you use a guide
 
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terrific

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Back when I was young and just got my Oxyacetylene torch, I would use that for every metal cutting job. That can cut pretty straight too if you use a guide
Haha, the grinder scares me enough. I don't think I'll try that, but I am interested in seeing a straight cut.
 

djbmw

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Like others have said, use your grinder and have a few thin cutoff discs on standby. You should have all of your cuts done within 15 min or less, and only have used a few dollars in discs.
Be sure to clamp the metal in a vice FYI.
 

GeoBruin

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A portaband is almost always the best solution for any kind of long thin material short of a dedicated horizontal bandsaw or cutoff saw. They're incredibly versatile tools. They run quiet, cool, and blades are relatively cheap for the number of cuts you get. Definitely worth picking one up if you don't have one.
 

tarbellb

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Yup portaband for the win

also clamp it down and have a guide on each side, the unistrut would be perfect to give a straighter cut
 
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