Which Tool for Cutting Unistrut

[firworks]

I've got a few projects coming up that I think I'd like to give Unistrut a try for. I'm wondering though what I have that would work best to cut it. Here's most things I've got that have a blade:
- 10" Table Saw
- 10" Miter Saw
- 12" Miter Saw
- Bosch 7-Amp Jigsaw
- Bosch 7-1/4" Circular Saw
- B&D Sawzall (Really Crappy Homeowner one)
- Router (Imagine the disaster)
- Dremel Tool
- 4.5" Metabo Angle Grinder
- Like a billion crappy hacksaws
- Fein SuperCut

Based on most of the videos I've seen people use Sawzalls to cut it but like I said the one I have is massive garbage. I was using it to take down a swingset cutting 4x4 posts so slowly and eventually went and got the Jigsaw and mounted the longest blade Menards had in it and it blasted right through. I've been watching eBay to see if a M12 Fuel Hackzall ever shows up but no deals so far. I can buy something to do it too but I wanted to know if I could make do as is. Of the stuff I've got I'd think maybe the Angle Grinder with a cutoff disc would work best. Either that or the Jigsaw with a large metal blade. I've cut sheet steel before with my jigsaw and besides the horrible racket it works fairly well. I'm pretty sure that I can't cut steel on my table saw or miter saw as they are marked everywhere not for cutting ferrous material. It'd be awesome if I could use the SuperCut for it as it's a little beast and when I use it to cut off bolts it goes right through them like butter. However, I think it'd be really hard / impossible to start a cut in channel with a OMT though.

What do you guys think? Should I buy something better to do it? Can I do it with something here (besides the hacksaw. I know I can do it with that but that feels like the last resort as it is not cool at all)? I'm currently in the Bosch 18V Lithium, Milwaukee M12, and Fein 12V/18V systems as far as cordless acquisitions go.

I'm not looking for an excuse to go buy another tool, but I wouldn't turn one down.

 

[evintho]

I use a chop saw to slice right through Unistrut. You may wanna pick up a metal cutting blade for your miter saw. Same principal.

 

[balrog]

Milwaukee M12 bandsaw works well to cut strut and threaded rod. That would be my first choice for off site work. If you are going to always be in the shop when cutting strut, a portable bandsaw mounted in a chop fixture is great for higher volume work. I prefer this over an abrasive chop saw as there are no sparks and the metal cuttings aren't shot all over the shop.

Get a high quality recip saw blade with the proper tooth count and give it a shot with your home owner recip saw. You could try the same with your jig saw. Grinder with cut off wheel would work.

 

[clarence wetzel]

my vote would be a square and a silver magic marker and a 4.5 angle grinder!
mark it straight cut it straight done deal!

 

[Mohawk Dave]

M12 bandsaw or M18 Metal Circular saw. I use both a WHOLE LOT!!!!

 

[firworks]

M12 bandsaw or M18 Metal Circular saw. I use both a WHOLE LOT!!!!

I've watched a lot of videos of that M12 bandsaw and am amazed at how fast it cuts channel and things... I have some other projects coming up where I'll need some shafting and acme rods and I wonder if it would a good tool for those too. I was planning to use an angle grinder. Hmm... If I could get an M12 bandsaw bare tool that might not be too expensive. Hmm hmm hmm...

You vouch that the M12 Bandsaws a solid tool Mohawk? I assume so since you use it a WHOLE LOT! That really fills a hole that I don't have anything for. Is it accurate enough that you could do a fair 45 with it for doing some welding goofing around? Making little frames and things.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

Awesome and reliable? Absolutely.

Cutting 45s....I wouldn't. And I grew up with a Skil 77 in my hand. I know how to cut.

That being said, I would use the M18 metal circ saw for 45s...which I do.

The M12 bandsaw does cut very quick (and so does my M18 Fuel bandsaw), but I only use it fro non-critical-measurement cuts or something I'll be taking to the Burr King anyway.

It sounds like the M18 circ saw would be a great addition to your shop.

I cut probably 14 LF of 3/16" hot rolled the other day with the M18 circ saw. I have the big 8" Milwaukee 110v circ saw, but wanted to see how the M18 would do. I hit the line with some Hougen SlikStik and went for it. Did awesome.

 

[CNGsaves]

I've watched a lot of videos of that M12 bandsaw and am amazed at how fast it cuts channel and things... I have some other projects coming up where I'll need some shafting and acme rods and I wonder if it would a good tool for those too. I was planning to use an angle grinder. Hmm... If I could get an M12 bandsaw bare tool that might not be too expensive. Hmm hmm hmm...

You vouch that the M12 Bandsaws a solid tool Mohawk? I assume so since you use it a WHOLE LOT! That really fills a hole that I don't have anything for. Is it accurate enough that you could do a fair 45 with it for doing some welding goofing around? Making little frames and things.

^ ^ ^ That's some good thinking there to "justify" the "need" for new tool !!!

CPO Outlets has the M12 bandsaw for $139 . . . . Hmm, Hmm ????
http://www.cpooutlets.com/milwaukee...K3e7yr3qgCmtgu84nyTLTH3ZdrJyaFXqcSBoCB3bw_wcB

May need to keep checking back though, as it shows out of stock.

 

[balrog]

I use the M12 on the jobsite to cut strut and threaded rod. The big upside for me is the tool is light and compact so I can make one handed cuts overhead in limited access areas.

The M12 throat clearance might be a limitation for a 45 degree chop cut depending on the material size. You would just have to tilt the saw and change the approach of the blade to the work piece. I've done it before, but the miters were marginal.

That said, I'd rather use a corded band saw with a miter jig for angled cuts if I'm in the shop.
I obtain better results which saves time when welding and grinding.

In a remote location, I get better angle cuts with a Hilti cordless metal cutting circular saw. It is rare for me to make miter cuts in the field.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

like balrog said, overhead I chose M12 bandsaw all day.

The M18 circ saw does throw bigger chips. I get the shop vac out everytime I use it vs the broom for the M12 bandsaw.

 

[jonjon1]

I use this

portable band saw with the chop saw table, I use it for strut, rod, tubing, it works great, leaves a nice edge, no crazy spark show, fast, no huge material loss, easy to follow your marks, its just the tool for the job...

 

[MushCreek]

I cut steel all the time with an abrasive blade in a cheap 10" chop saw. Cuts nice and clean and square. Just make sure you remove the plastic table insert, or it will melt on the first cut!

When I have to cut something I can't get into the saw, I use a SawZall or jig saw with a decent blade. My M18 SawZall slices steel with ease.

 

[Champo]

I use a cold cut off saw (chop saw) in the workshop, and an angle grinder with a cutting disc out in the field


Or a hacksaw

 

[stonesfan68]

^ ^ ^ That's some good thinking there to "justify" the "need" for new tool !!!

CPO Outlets has the M12 bandsaw for $139 . . . . Hmm, Hmm ????

May need to keep checking back though, as it shows out of stock.

Home Depot has the saw in stock for the same price.

 

[bcradio]

My only advice is to stick with buying corded unless you will need them where power is not available. A good corded tool will last you the the rest of your life. M12.... Not so much.

 

[TomB19]

I've cut unistrut with a Hackzall. It works well but doesn't leave the cleanest cut.

I've also cut it with a mini, Harbor Freight quality, cut-off saw. It works better but the 6" blade will only cut all the way through the 2x2 unistrut when the blade is brand new. After about two cuts, the blade radius is too short to make it through so the cuts had to be finished with a Hackzall.

A saw will make a cleaner cut than an abrasive wheel. That bandsaw table would be ultimate.

 

[skipnay]

I use to do back up battery supply for Sprint. We would build a lot of stuff from unistrut. We have done rooms as big as 100x100 or even bigger holding 500 and 750 cables hanging stuff from the ceiling and so on. We couldn't have sparks and stuff in the office. We used a hand held band saw all the time.

 

[firworks]

Awesome and reliable? Absolutely.

Cutting 45s....I wouldn't. And I grew up with a Skil 77 in my hand. I know how to cut.

That being said, I would use the M18 metal circ saw for 45s...which I do.

The M12 bandsaw does cut very quick (and so does my M18 Fuel bandsaw), but I only use it fro non-critical-measurement cuts or something I'll be taking to the Burr King anyway.

It sounds like the M18 circ saw would be a great addition to your shop.

I cut probably 14 LF of 3/16" hot rolled the other day with the M18 circ saw. I have the big 8" Milwaukee 110v circ saw, but wanted to see how the M18 would do. I hit the line with some Hougen SlikStik and went for it. Did awesome.

What's the difference between the M18 "Metal" circular saw and a normal one? I have a nice Bosch circular saw. Could I just put a metal cutting blade on it? Also I don't have any M18 stuff so I'd have to get a kit vs a bare tool for the M12 since I have like 10 chargers and 2 batteries. If I was getting a circular saw though... Couldn't I get the M12 Fuel circular saw and put a metal blade in it? It's got a 2.5" depth of cut that should be OK for Unistrut and that would also mean I could buy full plywood sheets and rip them down with a wood blade in the parking lot.

My only advice is to stick with buying corded unless you will need them where power is not available. A good corded tool will last you the the rest of your life. M12.... Not so much.

Well, I don't have a truck so the M12 bandsaw is definitely appealing in that I could bring it with to Menards, buy several 10' pieces and cut them in half to easily fit in my car.

I've cut unistrut with a Hackzall. It works well but doesn't leave the cleanest cut.

I've also cut it with a mini, Harbor Freight quality, cut-off saw. It works better but the 6" blade will only cut all the way through the 2x2 unistrut when the blade is brand new. After about two cuts, the blade radius is too short to make it through so the cuts had to be finished with a Hackzall.

A saw will make a cleaner cut than an abrasive wheel. That bandsaw table would be ultimate.

I was also looking at the Hackzall but I'm not sure what it would get me over the bandsaw and the bandsaw is not a large price differential. I've already got the SuperCut for plunge cuts into most things.

 

[Finky198]

All depends in the shop I'd use the chopsaw, but when I used to work at the job sites installing the stuff for AV the sawzall was always king of the hill very rarely were we cutting anything but 90s so your experience may vary....

A good worm drive saw works as well

 

[Mohawk Dave]

What's the difference between the M18 "Metal" circular saw and a normal one? I have a nice Bosch circular saw. Could I just put a metal cutting blade on it? Also I don't have any M18 stuff so I'd have to get a kit vs a bare tool for the M12 since I have like 10 chargers and 2 batteries. If I was getting a circular saw though... Couldn't I get the M12 Fuel circular saw and put a metal blade in it? It's got a 2.5" depth of cut that should be OK for Unistrut and that would also mean I could buy full plywood sheets and rip them down with a wood blade in the parking lot.

The size is different and so is speed and torque. The M18 metal is 5-3/8" and I think my M18 Wood saw is 6.5".

You'd probably burn up motor or blade if you use a metal blade on the wood saw.

I'd say the M18 circ saw can do what the M12 band saw could do 99 outta 100, but not the other way around.

Sell your children and buy both saws.

Metal Saw: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2682-22

Wood saws: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2630-22 & https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2731-20

 

[finn]

I'm not sure what makes a sawsall crappy, but a couple of new metal cutting blades should suffice to make it servicable. Clamp the unistrut in a vice to make the cut.

I use my old metal cutting bandsaw, but I've also used a sawsall and hand held hacksaw. They cut fine but aren't as accurate as the stand mounted bandsaw.

Then again, you aren't using unistrut to make a watch, are you?

 

[firworks]

I'm not sure what makes a sawsall crappy, but a couple of new metal cutting blades should suffice to make it servicable. Clamp the unistrut in a vice to make the cut.

I use my old metal cutting bandsaw, but I've also used a sawsall and hand held hacksaw. They cut fine but aren't as accurate as the stand mounted bandsaw.

Then again, you aren't using unistrut to make a watch, are you?

It just has no guts. It's not a real Sawzall, it's a B&D "Reciprocating Saw" and it has like a 3A motor. Short stroke, and just slow and barely cuts even with a new blade on it.

I wanted to use it to hang some ducting, and also to build a frame for a work surface.

I went to look at the M12 Bandsaw at F&F and it looks to be the perfect size for cutting Unistrut. I was very tempted to buy it but my GF said "I think you should get the kit with the XC battery and a case" so I guess I might be ordering one instead. Just have to figure out who has the best deal running. No one in store carries the kit.

I did also get to look at the metal cutting circular saw and I couldn't quite tell what made it "metal cutting". It was 1800RPM which seemed fast to me for metal but maybe because the blade is so small the IPM is actually fairly low as far as saws go.

I'm still not totally made up though on the M12 bandsaw but it does seem pretty cool and the thought of being able to buy long lengths and rough cut them to fit in the car is pretty appealing. I'm not getting any closer to getting a truck anytime soon so the Jetta will be the material hauler for a while still. It would be especially cool if somewhere was running a free tool deal where I could get the M12 bandsaw and the M12 Fuel circular saw so I could get unistrut AND plywood home.

Also Home Depot and Menards both have a pretty pathetic selection of Unistrut/Superstrut stuff. I haven't gotten in to Lowe's yet but maybe they'll be better, though I doubt it.

 

[unashamedlaborer]

The m18 metal cutting circular saw OWNES for cutting strut. It is the blade that makes it cut metal. You can get a metal blade for the regular wood circular saw as well. That's what I did and it makes super fast clean cuts on unistrut.

 

[Bruce57]

I use an M12 extensivelyrics cutting strut and rigid conduit. It'seems my go to tool for this, but I don't cut 45's. It'seems a little workhorse and the battery life is good.

 

[2oolhound]

I've used my 14" abrasive chop saw. It cuts square but it has a wide kerf. I usually use an angle grinder with a thin zip disc which works well and will get you through small projects easily. If you cut metal fairly regularly the circ saw or bandsaw solutions would be a good investment.

 

[firworks]

The m18 metal cutting circular saw OWNES for cutting strut. It is the blade that makes it cut metal. You can get a metal blade for the regular wood circular saw as well. That's what I did and it makes super fast clean cuts on unistrut.

If that's the case it seems like maybe the M12 Fuel Circular Saw would be the best bet. Get a metal blade for it and use that for strut in the parking lot and use it with a wood blade for ripping plywood down to car size. I have to think there's something different about that M18 Metal Circular Saw besides just the blade though. Why would they sell it and not just sell the blades for the regular M18 CS?

I use an M12 extensivelyrics cutting strut and rigid conduit. It'seems my go to tool for this, but I don't cut 45's. It'seems a little workhorse and the battery life is good.

Not sure I'll need to cut 45s it was just something I was thinking about. I can just weld up some frames with **** joints in the corners. I just got a little welder and was thinking of getting some small tube and trying to make like a little frame box or something with it for fun and to learn.

I've used my 14" abrasive chop saw. It cuts square but it has a wide kerf. I usually use an angle grinder with a thin zip disc which works well and will get you through small projects easily. If you cut metal fairly regularly the circ saw or bandsaw solutions would be a good investment.

I don't think I'll ever cut metal regularly but I guess in the long term including pipe, conduit, unistrut, and threaded rods a portable bandsaw would probably get fair use. I've got a few other projects in the early stages using some acme rod with motors for linear positioning and I'll either be grindering them to length or if I had the bandsaw I could use it.

 

[unashamedlaborer]

If that's the case it seems like maybe the M12 Fuel Circular Saw would be the best bet. Get a metal blade for it and use that for strut in the parking lot and use it with a wood blade for ripping plywood down to car size. I have to think there's something different about that M18 Metal Circular Saw besides just the blade though. Why would they sell it and not just sell the blades for the regular M18 CS?







Not sure I'll need to cut 45s it was just something I was thinking about. I can just weld up some frames with **** joints in the corners. I just got a little welder and was thinking of getting some small tube and trying to make like a little frame box or something with it for fun and to learn.







I don't think I'll ever cut metal regularly but I guess in the long term including pipe, conduit, unistrut, and threaded rods a portable bandsaw would probably get fair use. I've got a few other projects in the early stages using some acme rod with motors for linear positioning and I'll either be grindering them to length or if I had the bandsaw I could use it.

There are a few differences between the "dedicated" metal saw and the wood saw. I don't think the dedicated unit can cut angles. It is fixed 90* it also has a slightly smaller blade than the typical 6.5" model. I'm just saying if you plan to do both buy the wood saw and cough up the $$$ for the extra metal blade. Works great. Idk about the 12v stuff. I have seen and used some of the line and Definately appreciate it. But as of now I am not willing to drop the coin on batteries to support two systems. And honestly all of the common 12v tools like impact, drill, hacksawl, ect are just too slow, inadequate for my needs.

 

[kngelv]

I use this

portable band saw with the chop saw table, I use it for strut, rod, tubing, it works great, leaves a nice edge, no crazy spark show, fast, no huge material loss, easy to follow your marks, its just the tool for the job...

This.

James

 

[Mohawk Dave]

I use this

portable band saw with the chop saw table, I use it for strut, rod, tubing, it works great, leaves a nice edge, no crazy spark show, fast, no huge material loss, easy to follow your marks, its just the tool for the job...

I have this too. It is great, but IT IS HEAVY AND AWKWARD TO CARRY.

I'm surprised how heavy it is...built super well. No way I'd want to use it for rough cuts at the job carrying it back and forth everyday, but at home shop, yes.