Which Torque Wrench to Buy???

[Randy Kegg]

My friend wants to buy a click type torque wrench for his son. The son is not a mechanic, just a weekend car enthusiast. The wrench would be for general automotive use, such as wheel nuts, suspension, and perhaps the occasional engine use. It would not be used often. Still, it needs to be a good and accurate wrench. And hopefully not too expensive. A snap on wrench, while very nice, would be too expensive for my friend. What can you recommend?
Thanks....................................................

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Depends on what you want to pay. For a good dependable wrench they will range from $80 or so (KD) to $150 or so for a CDI or PI wrench. Both of teh last two are the OEM suppliers to Snap-on and they make a great wrench that will last a lifetime. For the occasional user. the PI split beam would be the best choice as you do not need to set them back to the lowest setting after use.

The only drawback to them is that they only work in a clockwise direction so if you have a need to torque any left handed fasteners, you will need a different type of wrench.

An older beam style wrench will also work well but you must be in a position to see the beam and that is not always possible.

 

[griff99]

You're going to get 1000's of recommendations on here for Precision Instruments split beam wrenches. I got them too, however I felt more comfortable with a click type having never used a split beam before. And like your friends son I don't use them all the time, I am a weekend enthusiast too. I eventually went with CDI torque wrenches and love them, the only issue, not an issue at all for me, is reducing them down to their lowest setting when you are done using them. CDI is a Snap-On company but you don't pay Snap-On $$$ for their wrenches, they aren't much more than Craftsman or any of the other store brands. I bought mine, 1/2" 25-250 ft lbs 2503MFRMH, 3/8" 5-75 ft lbs 752MFRMH, off ebay they were ~$140 for the 1/2 and ~115 for the 3/8". In hind sight I have no regrets except I wish I had bought the 3/8" flex head 10-80 ft lbs 802MFRFMHSS, ~$125. Just my $0.02.

 

[BQuicksilver]

Not the harbor freight ones, they don't click consistently.

I had good luck with the "Neiko Professional Grade" cheap stuff off amazon.

 

[Treeman]

You're going to get 1000's of recommendations on here for Precision Instruments split beam wrenches. I got them too, however I felt more comfortable with a click type having never used a split beam before.

Griff, your post is a bit confusing. The Precision Instrument split beam wrench is a clicker style wrench also.

To the OP, you will be well educated if you do a search here. When I bought wrenches a few years ago, I had to overcome the delusion that CDI, Precision Instrument, Proto, and Sturdevant Richmont were NOT "off brands". Everyone thinks of Snap On and Craftsman as the name brand torque wrenches to buy.

 

[hammergodthor]

I would recommend a SATA wrench. I don't have one, nor do I sell this, or even know this guy, but here's my vote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MATCO-SATA-1-2-DR-PROFESSIONAL-TORQUE-WRENCH-96313-/280597453577?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4154e95b09#ht_500wt_1156


GJ review of the same:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59668&highlight=sata+torque+wrench


$44 + shipping. Good luck!!

 

[griff99]

Griff, your post is a bit confusing. The Precision Instrument split beam wrench is a clicker style wrench also.

To the OP, you will be well educated if you do a search here. When I bought wrenches a few years ago, I had to overcome the delusion that CDI, Precision Instrument, Proto, and Sturdevant Richmont were NOT "off brands". Everyone thinks of Snap On and Craftsman as the name brand torque wrenches to buy.

Yes I realize that a split beam clicks but it isn't the traditional clicker type wrench that everyone thinks of. Right?

 

[DrkMtnDew]

PI is always my first choice, but for someone who only wrenches on weekends or is on a budget, Craftsman will work in a pinch.

 

[Hank McMauser]

I'm putting on my flame suit as I type this, but the HF 1/2" is going on salefor $9.99 in March at the sidewalk sale I think the dates were the 11th -13th of march. I bought one last year, I haven't used it much, but have loaned it to a friend working on his ford diesel p/u numerous times. I was thinking of having him get his own or sell him mine & buy myself a new one.

 

[Randy Kegg]

What do you think of the KD brand of wrenches?

 

[laz]

I'm putting on my flame suit as I type this, but the HF 1/2" is going on salefor $9.99 in March at the sidewalk sale I think the dates were the 11th -13th of march. I bought one last year, I haven't used it much, but have loaned it to a friend working on his ford diesel p/u numerous times. I was thinking of having him get his own or sell him mine & buy myself a new one.

+1 on HF 1/2" for lug nuts and casual automotive use. I've seen racers I trust claim they have calibrated very close to dead on. The $9.99 deal is in a coupon in automotive mags. At that price, it's worth picking one up just for lug nuts because of the probability of it being roughed up a little.

You can spend more if that'll make you feel better about the purchase. I've used them for motor work and don't feel bad about it (the first portion of the sequence for BMW's torque to yield bolts).

 

[Treeman]

What do you think of the KD brand of wrenches?

KD (I thought they were being dissolved) is part of the Danaher tool group and their torque wrenches are made by JS Technologies in Georgia. They make KD, Gearwrench (I think), Craftsman, Armstrong, Napa, and other torque wrences.

There are at least two lines of KD. One looks similar to Craftsman in build quality and the others look similar to Armstrong (industrial) in quality.

My opinion, with little to back it up, is that the "better" Danaher torque wrenches are good, but maybe just a tiny notch down from the other dedicated wrench mfg. such as CDI and PI. Just a hunch.

I used a NAPA torque wrench and it was excellent. U.S. made at least.

KD...Craftsman look a like.

KD....Armstrong/NAPA look a like.

 

[Skin]

Yes I realize that a split beam clicks but it isn't the traditional clicker type wrench that everyone thinks of. Right?

i think you mean to say you prefer the Micrometer Adjustable Click wrenches vs Split Beam Click torque wrenches.

If he's young and may have friends helping i'd go with split beams, no question. Cheap[HF] or expensive[CDI] wont save you from tool abuse. Better to give an amatuer something they cant screw up than something they can.

 

[bmwohio]

PI is always my first choice, but for someone who only wrenches on weekends or is on a budget, Craftsman will work in a pinch.

My Craftsman works great for me. I am a weekend DIY'er, but I also Autocross and change to slicks at each event, which means I need to torque once I get the slicks on and then torque again once I put my street tires back on after the event. I've had it for about a year and a half and no problems yet

Here's mine:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944595000P

 

[bowlofturtle]

you DIY guys... do you bother to re-calibrate the wrench say after 5 years or just roll with it, since its not uses all the time or engine building...

My 3/8's wrench has been about 7 years old now but i dont do too many torque stuff.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I do a rough check with a torque meter on the truck every 6 months or so and get them recalibrated after 3 or 4 years.

 

[griff99]

i think you mean to say you prefer the Micrometer Adjustable Click wrenches vs Split Beam Click torque wrenches.

Geez, I guess I better be more specific next time, you guys are really critical and specific.

 

[SO/PW newbie]

The HF 1/2 i have had for several years is working fine. Typically I only use it on lug nuts . It feels acurate and consistant every time (to me at least). The HF 3/8 I had seemed like it didn't want to click every time on lower setting, but they let me swap it out. I havent had a chance to use the new one yet.

Although when we did a set of heads, a mechanic let us borrow his SO, just to be safe.

 

[spv]

I am loving my Gedore Torcofix 20-200 (cost: ~$185). I ordered direct from Germany so most likely not practical..

 

[mkirkpatrick]

The click on the HF wrenches on the lower settings are real faint, both in volume and feel. If the setting is in the mid range of the wrench you can feel it and hear it. I have a 1/2, 1/4 and 3/8 that way I can keep the setting in the mid range of the wrench. I compared them to a Gearwrench 50 to 250 ft/lb wrench and they were right on the money.

Just my .02 worth

 

[trainwreck]

If he's young and may have friends helping i'd go with split beams, no question. Cheap[HF] or expensive[CDI] wont save you from tool abuse. Better to give an amatuer something they cant screw up than something they can.

I thought that split beam torque wrenches were more easily damaged than micrometer adjustable click wrenches because you couldn't use a split beam in reverse?

 

[ajchien]

I just bought a 1/2inch HF one, for the purpose of lug nuts. Checking it against a CMan beam style wrench - the HF clicker is consistently 5-7 ft lbs tighter than what it says.

 

[Skin]

I thought that split beam torque wrenches were more easily damaged than micrometer adjustable click wrenches because you couldn't use a split beam in reverse?

You're right they're only meant to go clockwise but you cant reverse them so....

 

[Hank McMauser]

I just bought a 1/2inch HF one, for the purpose of lug nuts. Checking it against a CMan beam style wrench - the HF clicker is consistently 5-7 ft lbs tighter than what it says.

What are the tolerances on each wrench? if I recall HF is +/-4% if the craftsman is the same +/-4 they could well be 5-7 lbs difference on lug nuts at 100 ft lbs
I'm sure you're average wheel studs won't know the difference between say 98 ft lbs and 105 ft lbs

 

[stopdroplol]

I thought that split beam torque wrenches were more easily damaged than micrometer adjustable click wrenches because you couldn't use a split beam in reverse?

Actually you got it backwards. Beam wrenches can go turn either direction, in fact they have markings for both. Clicker's however must spin clockwise, to engage their "clicking" mechanism.

People give beam wrenches a bad rap for some reason. I guess because the clickers are considered "sophisticated" or proper engineering. In reality though the Beam's are far more reliable and accurate. Plus you never have to worry about calibrating.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Actually you got it backwards. Beam wrenches can go turn either direction, in fact they have markings for both. Clicker's however must spin clockwise, to engage their "clicking" mechanism.

People give beam wrenches a bad rap for some reason. I guess because the clickers are considered "sophisticated" or proper engineering. In reality though the Beam's are far more reliable and accurate. Plus you never have to worry about calibrating.

You are confused about the wrenches they are talking about. You are using a "beam" and they are talking about the difference in a "split beam" like those from PI (that also clicks) compared to a normal clicker like a CDI.

A normal clicker like the CDI wrench can go in either direction but must be set back to it's lowest setting for storage. A split beam can only go clockwise but can be left at whatever setting it is on.

 

[trainwreck]

So if you're likely to have others using your torque wrench without supervision or training:

You can risk someone using your split beam in reverse destroying it.

-or-

You can risk someone leaving your micrometer adjustable click wrench at anything other than the lowest setting messing up the calibration.

Decisions, decisions...

 

[Treeman]

So if you're likely to have others using your torque wrench without supervision or training:

You can risk someone using your split beam in reverse destroying it.
Decisions, decisions...

Trainwreck.....The split beam CANNOT be used in reverse and CANNOT be damaged in reverse because the ratchet head will just "free spin" in the reverse direction. It will only engage and torque in the clockwise direction. There is no lever/switch to engage the ratchet in the counter clockwise direction, which also prevents some numbskull from using it as a breaker bar!

 

[TAMPAGT07]

I just bought a 1/2inch HF one, for the purpose of lug nuts. Checking it against a CMan beam style wrench - the HF clicker is consistently 5-7 ft lbs tighter than what it says.

I bought one too...The reason????? For a loaner....Anytime someone asks to borrow a torque wrench, who I know couldn't even drive in a nail, I hand him the good ole HF....

 

[trainwreck]

Trainwreck.....The split beam CANNOT be used in reverse and CANNOT be damaged in reverse because the ratchet head will just "free spin" in the reverse direction. It will only engage and torque in the clockwise direction. There is no lever/switch to engage the ratchet in the counter clockwise direction, which also prevents some numbskull from using it as a breaker bar!

oh..... yes, that would make much more sense. Thank you for clearing that up for me. You can tell that I haven't had any access to a split beam torque wrench before. Had I known this beforehand, I might have been more likely to buy one myself. Oh well. There's always next time.

 

[dinhtuann123]

I think you can choose CDI 2401CI3 Drive Computorq 3 Electronic Torque Wrench.
Here is some features:

LED Display for real time torque values in any of the available four torque units
It has a 15° flex ratcheting head
Quick release buttons for easy switching
The rubber grip is ergonomically designed and non slip as well
Torque range anywhere between 2 and 20 foot pounds

 

[country83]

Trainwreck.....The split beam CANNOT be used in reverse and CANNOT be damaged in reverse because the ratchet head will just "free spin" in the reverse direction. It will only engage and torque in the clockwise direction. There is no lever/switch to engage the ratchet in the counter clockwise direction, which also prevents some numbskull from using it as a breaker bar!

For some dumb reason the older SO split beams had reversible ratchet heads. The newer ones fortunately don't anymore.

 

[BoonDockSaint]

My friend wants to buy a click type torque wrench for his son. The son is not a mechanic, just a weekend car enthusiast. The wrench would be for general automotive use, such as wheel nuts, suspension, and perhaps the occasional engine use. It would not be used often. Still, it needs to be a good and accurate wrench. And hopefully not too expensive. A snap on wrench, while very nice, would be too expensive for my friend. What can you recommend?
Thanks....................................................

I have a snap on and a Craftsman 3/8 clicker. They both click at the same time on a test fastener. I use the SO more because it has a flex head and it's easier to set but the craftsman is just as accurate but more bulky. I think I paid 69 bucks on sale for the craftsman and 150 used for the SO.

Happy Motoring!

 

[krist]

HI guys how are you,

Im looking for a good wrench but i dont want to spend too much money on it..I have found this guide and it seems like tekton wrench is a good choice and it costs around $50 which is decent...any other suggestions ??

 

[monster1]

What about the husky ones at home Depot? Last I heard, they are USA made and best bang for the buck.

 

[TK-421]

What kind of budget do you have and what kind of quality do you want? I've been looking at Precision Instruments, specifically their 3/8" PREC2FR100F and their 1/2" PREC3FR250F. The 3/8" is only $111.79 at Jbtoolsales.com and the 1/2" is only $167.95. What I like about them is they're split beam wrenches, so you don't need to do anything special when you're done torquing stuff down. I have a horrible memory, and I know I'd leave a normal click style at whatever torque setting I last used it at, rather than turning it down like you're supposed to do before you put it away.

 

[sberry]

I'm putting on my flame suit as I type this, but the HF 1/2" is going on salefor $9.99 in March at the sidewalk sale I think the dates were the 11th -13th of march. I bought one last year, I haven't used it much, but have loaned it to a friend working on his ford diesel p/u numerous times. I was thinking of having him get his own or sell him mine & buy myself a new one.

This.. I hant ever had a wrench calibrated and use same one for 35 yrs. A little pinch doesnt mean squat for common work. But,,, this is a home brew deal or a kid, by all accounts the 10$ works well but someone can always come with logic why 1 costs 10x or more is a deal.

 

[guy48065]

HI guys how are you,

Im looking for a good wrench but i dont want to spend too much money on it..I have found this guide and it seems like tekton wrench is a good choice and it costs around $50 which is decent...any other suggestions ??

That link is full of errors. The author apparently considers ANY tool capable of applying rotational force to a fastener to be a "torque wrench". I doubt many here would agree a pipe wrench is a torque wrench.
That said...that Tekton torque wrench is probably AT LEAST as good a torque wrench as a pipe wrench is

Jokes aside...IMO all torque wrenches with the steel hex collar at the end of the handle are all the same and likely all made on the same line in China. If you're only going to use it a couple times per year on your own gear--not someone elses, and not for money--Get the Harbor Freight one on sale and save yourself $40.

 

[AnonymousToolGuy]

I have 3: GW 1/2", GW 3/8", HF 1/4". The 3/8" is the one I end up using nearly always. All 3 I've calbiration-checked and all 3 were accurate. GW was bought 4 years ago. Don't drop it, don't store it wound up, and it's fine.

Calibrate if someone's life depends on the torque being hyper-accurate, but at that point I figure you'd be using bolt stretch measurements anyways to establish torque.