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Which track saw would you recommend?

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RKA

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My vote would be the Makita. It’s a solid performer (the others are good choices too). The tracks are similar to the Festool guide rails. The link below is one of my favorite accessories for the Festool guide rails (fits Makita too). Very accurate 90 degree cuts with little fuss. They also make something called a parallel guide system that attaches to the guide rail square to give you consistent parallel cuts for your cabinets. Expensive, but worth it imho.

https://tsoproducts.com/tso-guide-rail-squares/grs-16-guide-rail-square/
 

mike93lx

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for shop use, I don't see value in cordless on a track saw. they are heavier and you'll likely be tied to dust collection anyway, so the cord doesn't really matter.

I'd likely either go for Makita or Dewalt, both are good. I'd also plan for a either a second 50-60" track or a 100".

With all that said, a shooting board and a quality circular saw will do 95% of what a track saw does for a heck of a lot less costs.

https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2010/11/11/make-a-saw-guide-for-faster-cleaner-cuts

I've thought about a track saw many times and just can't get there for a hobbyist. IMO, if budget is not unlimited and you don't already have one, a high quality dust extractor is a much better investment
 

mautotech

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I have the Dewalt cordless Flexvolt track saw and love it. I have used it a lot and it works great.
 

manwithtools

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Makita or Dewalt. Get a single piece long track - don't join sections unless you absolutely have to. For those that don't own a track saw, it's difficult for them to appreciate how superior it is to a circular saw and a straight edge.

Unless you are using the saw outside without dust collection I would get the corded version, you'll have a hose connected to it anyway for dust collection. Managing the cord is not that much more effort at that point.
 

mike93lx

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Makita or Dewalt. Get a single piece long track - don't join sections unless you absolutely have to. For those that don't own a track saw, it's difficult for them to appreciate how superior it is to a circular saw and a straight edge.

Unless you are using the saw outside without dust collection I would get the corded version, you'll have a hose connected to it anyway for dust collection. Managing the cord is not that much more effort at that point.

no question they are faster, have better dust collection and allow plunge cuts.

With all that said, for a single project, there are better places to spend money, IMO. To each his own
 

Git

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I don't think you could wrong with any of those three. Shop for the best deal and then compare prices. (I have a Festool which was the only game in town when I bought, but if I was buying today I probably would go with the Makita) It is nice to have a dedicated 100"+ track but they are $$$$. I have one and it gets used all the time

A 'cobbled' together setup is just not the same as real tracksaw, and believe me, I have tried over the years. I even bought a dedicated saw - porter cable 314, and a number of different tracks. Going to real track saw is like night and day

First of all, tracksaws can plunge - which you may or may not have a use for (I do). The best part is the 'splinter' guide - the rubber strip that attaches to the bottom of the track. The first time you use the saw, it cuts through the strip and from then on, you know exactly where the blade is going to cut. Makes cutting a no brainer - make a couple of marks, lined up the edge of the splinter guard and make the cut EXACTLY as planned. No figuring the offset, etc

I wouldn't go cordless either, just my personal preference. If you are going to run a dust collector - what's the point then?
 

manwithtools

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no question they are faster, have better dust collection and allow plunge cuts.

With all that said, for a single project, there are better places to spend money, IMO. To each his own

Add in the zero clearance insert for the saw and the anti-splinter strip and you get nearly splinter free cuts on both sides of your $125 sheet hardwood plywood. Also beveled cuts are a breeze, which most homemade guides won't do without great difficulty.

The OP asked which track saw to buy, not if he should buy one. If one has decided to purchase a tool, we should help him make the right choice, not discourage him from a tool purchase - this is GJ after all. :beer:

As far as the single project logic is concerned; I find once I have a tool, I'll almost always find more projects to use it on. I use the track saw to cut roof sheathing and floor decking, just because its easier and faster than snapping a line. The trueness of the cuts is so good it makes the whole job easier and neater. Could I do it without a track saw? Certainly. But having one leads to using it on other things you might not think of if you did not own one.

Straight line rip rough cut hardwood lumber to get it ready to size on table saw or jointer. Safer to take the saw to the work than the panel to the saw in many instances. The list goes on.

It's the nuts for hardwood floor repairs too, add a router adapter and other horizons just opened up too.
 
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Sage55

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Great points about not worrying about corded vs cordless as I plan on running a hose for dust collection - that's one plus I see in having a track/plung saw.

Actually just bought a 3/4" sheet of birch plywood this evening to make a dust collection cart using my new ridgid shop vac and a dust deputy.

Actually having a track saw right now would make even that project easier as I only have a small Dewalt jobsite table saw (DWE7491RS) and a small shed I'm working out of right now. So even cutting a single 4x8' 3/4" plywood to a smaller size can be a chore.

So yeah I'd like to use a track saw for the wall cabinet project coming up, but it would certainly make my life easier right now if I had one. In addition the wife is wanting me to build a new king size platform bed frame for us, so finding a use for it probably won't be a problem.


@RKA - thanks for the suggestion on the parallel guide system. I'll certainly keep that in mind.

@mike93lx - I hadn't heard of a shooting board but it does look pretty cool. One thing lacking would be the dust collection on my old craftsman circular saw. :D

@manwithtools - thanks for all the good info. I'll check and see if the Makita offers longer tracks as well.
 

deter

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i have the makita and i love it. I join 2 sections of track for full sheet cuts, and never a problem. cuts perfect. Im still amazed that I dont need clamps. just line the track up and cut away
 

mike93lx

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Great points about not worrying about corded vs cordless as I plan on running a hose for dust collection - that's one plus I see in having a track/plung saw.

Actually just bought a 3/4" sheet of birch plywood this evening to make a dust collection cart using my new ridgid shop vac and a dust deputy.

Actually having a track saw right now would make even that project easier as I only have a small Dewalt jobsite table saw (DWE7491RS) and a small shed I'm working out of right now. So even cutting a single 4x8' 3/4" plywood to a smaller size can be a chore.

So yeah I'd like to use a track saw for the wall cabinet project coming up, but it would certainly make my life easier right now if I had one. In addition the wife is wanting me to build a new king size platform bed frame for us, so finding a use for it probably won't be a problem.


@RKA - thanks for the suggestion on the parallel guide system. I'll certainly keep that in mind.

@mike93lx - I hadn't heard of a shooting board but it does look pretty cool. One thing lacking would be the dust collection on my old craftsman circular saw. :D

@manwithtools - thanks for all the good info. I'll check and see if the Makita offers longer tracks as well.

unrelated, build an outfeed table for your table saw. I have the same saw (it really is a great jobsite saw) and the outfeed makes it so much better to use. I adapted these plans and am able to simply slide the table on when i need it and I am not dependent on having another work table nearby and on the same plane, which is particularly helpful when you bring the saw to the work. https://www.instructables.com/id/Outfeed-Table-for-Dewalt-Table-Saw-for-10-includes/

For cutting sheets, I lay a few pieces of foam insulation board on the ground, place the sheet on top and cut with my circular saw. Typically I will cut slightly over without a guide, then finish cut on the table saw. If I need it right on the first pass, I use the board.

I would like to have a track saw and they certainly have uses beyond sheet goods, just haven't gotten there. I'm planning to replace all interior doors in my house, which may be the project that gets me done on a track saw.
 

marineengineer

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I just purchased the kregg one another option and everything ive used from kregg is good. One track showed up today but no saw i can update when the saw shows up. If your interested? This is the real track saw not the sled for a circular saw from what ive seen on the track im impressed so far. The saw was built to make a king size storage bed also but i definatley have other uses for it.
 
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Sage55

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unrelated, build an outfeed table for your table saw. I have the same saw (it really is a great jobsite saw) and the outfeed makes it so much better to use. I adapted these plans and am able to simply slide the table on when i need it and I am not dependent on having another work table nearby and on the same plane, which is particularly helpful when you bring the saw to the work. https://www.instructables.com/id/Outfeed-Table-for-Dewalt-Table-Saw-for-10-includes/
.
How well does that outfeed table work? Would it support a heavy sheet of plywood?

I just purchased the kregg one another option and everything ive used from kregg is good. One track showed up today but no saw i can update when the saw shows up.

Yes please!
 

mike93lx

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How well does that outfeed table work? Would it support a heavy sheet of plywood?

I should note that i didn't make mine so it can come apart like the plans show. my table is mounted to the supports. I also didn't cut grooves for the miter slots. If I am using a sled, I just take off the outfeed.

it works great. it's quite strong and you can build it stronger to work for what you need. If you are frequently cutting long sheets, I would probably make it longer and support the end with a leg. that could be a lot of weight trying to tip the saw.

I made mine about the width of the table and maybe 30" deep?
 
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tclark

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Once you have one you'll certainly find more uses for it; it's a very nice tool to have. I've got the Dewalt with both tracks; I liked being able to use both sides of the track.
 

losvre

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If money is not a problem you may have a look at Mafell AG, made in Germany

Most pro say they are the best.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

shoot summ

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Also don't overlook the fact that most home centers(if that is where you are getting your basic sheet goods) have a panel saw. I typically take a cut list with me, and have them do the initial break down of the sheets. I leave with my pieces cut, and no mess to clean up.
 
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acer66

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I have a festool and I use it more often than I thought like mentioned before and paid for itself by building my kitchen cabinets.

I also second the notion to not join rails.
I have a festool 55” for cross cuts and a long makita rail to rip 8’ sheets
and it makes working with sheet good so much easier.
Just lay it on there, no clamping and every cut is a clean final cut.

I also do not see the need for cordless in a shop with a track saw
because of the hose.
 

tyyost

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Also don't overlook the fact that most home centers(if that is where you are getting your basic sheet goods) have a panel saw. I typically take a cut list with me, and have them do the initial break down of the sheets. I leave with my pieces cut, and no mess to clean up.

Most Safety Speed cut panel saws at the yards have blades that are too coarse for nice plywood and have no mechanism for splinter reduction. They work for a rough project but not at all ideal for woodworking. Real panel saws for fine plywood or melamine do much better than the lumber yard variety.

The tracksaw is meant to solve problems, one problem is to not have to move a heavy sheet through the table saw. With a zero clearance insert and a good blade a table saw was the standard way to make cabinets from furniture grade plywood for many years for American woodworkers. The tracksaw changes that by eliminating moving the material and addressing the splintering of the edges with the edge guard.

Once you own a tracksaw you open many opportunities for other uses in your work, precise trimming of large parts like doors, cleaning up rough lumber with a straight edge with no jointer, or cutting in situ on floors or walls with a high degree of precision.
 

mike_aa

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Concerning connecting rails, there is a newer set of self aligning connectors now available that are much higher quality than the Festool and Makita ones. TSO Products has them and they also sell a nice guide rail square that comes in real handy.

https://tsoproducts.com/tso-products-guide-rail-squares/grc-12-self-aligning-guide-rail-connectors/

If you want cordless, I have the Festool TSC55 that comes with its own dust bag eliminating the hose. Not quite as effective as a hose to a dust extractor, but still really good. I'm not sure, but I thought that was also available on Makita.

Good luck!

Mike
 

cashishift

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I have the Dewalt - no negative things to say about it.

About to start working on a cabinet for the wife, so it will get some more use.
 

marantzer

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I bought the Bosch, mainly because everything I saw in my research indicated it was essentially a Mafell. I bought it for a specific project that I haven’t started on yet, so no feedback on performance yet. I’ve been acquiring rails as Bosch sales pop up.
 

cashishift

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I bought the Bosch, mainly because everything I saw in my research indicated it was essentially a Mafell. I bought it for a specific project that I haven’t started on yet, so no feedback on performance yet. I’ve been acquiring rails as Bosch sales pop up.

This one came out after I had bought mine.. I probably would have purchased the Bosch, but the price I paid for the Dewalt was farrrrrr to cheap to wait.
 
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Sage55

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One down side I just realized on the Makita which I hadn't noticed until now is that it doesn't have a riving knife like many other track saws. Not a horrible issue I suppose, but just something I've noticed.

That sale price though is sooo tempting. The saw, Makita 194368-5 track and a set of microjig clamps for less than $415.
 

Gotcha640

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I'll go the other way and say the cordless is a big pro. Yes it's a super precise track saw with dust collection when it's in the shop doing sheet goods, but it's also a cordless circular saw the rest of the time. Trim the top off a fence post at the far end of the back yard, build a shed at the far end of a gravel road, break down material in the back of a truck, all things that otherwise require a generator or a long cord, and don't care about dust collection.
 

strutaeng

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I've got the Dewalt corded one with the 60" track and the clamps. I meant to buy the long track to rip a full sheet of plywood, but you can do without one.

I built an entire set of kitchen cabinet uppers and a wall oven cabinet. It was money well spent. I have a portable table saw and used to have a contractors table saw that I sold. They are nice, but you need a huge space to rip a sheet of plywood and infeed/outfeed tables. At least 18'-20' min. in length. That's were these track saws shine!

Table saws are still useful and tack saws don't completely replace them. Dadoes and rabbets and other joinery are easy to cut on table saws, although a router also works too.

Also, the quality of the cut on sheets is impressive due to the replaceable rubber inserts and riving knives.

If you get Dewalt, don't worry about the clamps. I bought them and don't use them, as the track is literally fixed once you set it down. I'm not sure on the others.
 

Voi

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I'll go the other way and say the cordless is a big pro. Yes it's a super precise track saw with dust collection when it's in the shop doing sheet goods, but it's also a cordless circular saw the rest of the time. Trim the top off a fence post at the far end of the back yard, build a shed at the far end of a gravel road, break down material in the back of a truck, all things that otherwise require a generator or a long cord, and don't care about dust collection.

For this type of work there is the somewhat new track ready circular saws. The Makita XSH08, Metabo Metabo KS LXT 57 as well as the Festool HK 55 & HKC 55 are the only examples I know of.

Only the HK 55 is corded for the reasons Gotcha640 mentioned above.

If anyone is interested in the concept the Festool "carpentry" saws have been out the longest and have the most video reviews.

I'm assuming if one needs top dust control they'd be better off with the typical plunge type track saws.

I'm already well invested in Makita cordless but would like to see more reviews on the XSH08. I'm especially interested if it will work with the Festool cross cut track designed for the HK 55 saws. In the meantime I have access to my BP's corded Makita plunge saw if I need it.

Here is a video on the HKC 55.

 

RKA

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@Gotcha It's awkward and dangerous (not impossible). The tracksaw is spring loaded and pivots on the back part of the bottom plate. You need to push the saw head down, then push it across the track feeding into your work piece and clear past the other end of the work piece. You'll find the track will swing all over the place unless you've clamped it in place. And using the tracksaw without a track isn't quite the same as a regular circular saw. I would say it handles sufficiently poorly to be dangerous due to the spring loaded motor and blade. I don't know how to explain it, but I tried it once, not doing that again. For a fence post I would get a regular circ saw. 3 seconds and you're done, no rail, no clamps, no drama.

But, your point about cordless is still valid. The wire is another thing to manage while you're cutting and another thing to hook up for those quick cuts. I've had the hose neatly running back along the rail during a cut and suddenly the cord drops off to the side near the blade, so I'm reaching down to flip the cord over. Then I strap the cord to the hose, but when I want to use the hose to clean up the work area (some dust does escape near the end of the cut), it's tethered to the cord/saw. So eliminating the cord does have some practical value.

And you're right, if you're out in a parking lot of away from an outlet, cordless wins. I know the Festool dust capture with the bag far exceeded what I expected and I've used it a few times when I didn't want to drag out the vacuum or deal with power cords. But it's a tough sell since a cordless platform will inherently have a much shorter lifespan than anything corded.

What is interesting with the Festool is the 36V cordless has more power than the corded model. Not sure if the same is true with the Makita, but I believe the corded Makita comes out of the box with more power compared to Festool, so maybe the difference between Makita's corded and cordless is negligible?
 

shoot summ

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Most Safety Speed cut panel saws at the yards have blades that are too coarse for nice plywood and have no mechanism for splinter reduction. They work for a rough project but not at all ideal for woodworking. Real panel saws for fine plywood or melamine do much better than the lumber yard variety.

The tracksaw is meant to solve problems, one problem is to not have to move a heavy sheet through the table saw. With a zero clearance insert and a good blade a table saw was the standard way to make cabinets from furniture grade plywood for many years for American woodworkers. The tracksaw changes that by eliminating moving the material and addressing the splintering of the edges with the edge guard.

Once you own a tracksaw you open many opportunities for other uses in your work, precise trimming of large parts like doors, cleaning up rough lumber with a straight edge with no jointer, or cutting in situ on floors or walls with a high degree of precision.

The cuts I get work fine for "woodworking". And it also solves the problem of me moving large sheets, to my vehicle, to my shop, to my table saw, and through my table saw. I don't consider any sheet good from the home centers "fine plywood", although I have gotten acceptable cuts on melamine.

Not arguing against a track saw(I own one), and obviously the panel saw(and operator) will have limits, but it works a good deal of the time for me, and I don't have to mess with breaking sheets down. I never buy sheets at HD or Lowes that will be anything other than painted.

Time is money, when I can get my sheet goods broken down in an acceptable fashion, with no cost, and little time expended, that is a good thing. Is it the solution for every problem? No, but neither is a track saw.
 
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Sage55

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I guess I just need to flip a coin.

The Dewalt 60v batteries are backwards compatible with my 20v MAX tools, such as my impact driver. Not that I was wanting a cordless track saw it's nice to know those batteries would work with my other tools.

It also has a riving knife and anti-kick back feature - neither of which is found on the Makita. However the Makita appears to be much cleaner is terms of dust management from the videos I've been watching of the two. Even with a vac attached the Dewalt seems to still spew dust out.

Let go flip a quarter.
 

Git

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Table saws are still useful and tack saws don't completely replace them. Dadoes and rabbets and other joinery are easy to cut on table saws, although a router also works too.

Once you have the track saw, the next step is a track router. Especially on long cuts, I find it much easier than changing the blade on the table saw, get the right number of shims to match the width of the plywood (anyone's guess what the actual thickness will be) and then push the sheet of ply across the blade.

Since I have festool track saw, I bought there 'guide stop adapter' and set it up to work on my Bosch Router.

They all have the adapter - included is a pic of the Makita version

I forgot to add - you can even use a track saw to 'joint' two pieces of board in a pinch. But the two edges together and make a cut right down the line and you should end up with a pretty straight matching edge on both boards
 

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Chevota Guy

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How well does that outfeed table work? Would it support a heavy sheet of plywood?

Another guy here with the DeWalt 7491 RS. I built this compact portable outfeed table. It would handle a sheet of plywood, but would likely require a stabilizer leg at the rear of the table.

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As far as track saws go, I have a corded model although not one of the saws you are looking at. they are fantastic and I'll never run a sheet of plywood across a table saw again :)
 
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Sage55

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As far as track saws go, I have a corded model although not one of the saws you are looking at. they are fantastic and I'll never run a sheet of plywood across a table saw again :)

Which track saw do you have?
 

GRB

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I bought a Festool when they first came out, called Festo at the time and there was one US dealer. More than 35 years ago.
Upgraded to the Makita when they first came out and then decided I liked the features of the newer Festool, particularly the anti splinter on the outside of the cut as well as the inside anti splinter on the track.
Makita riving knife is only important on hardwoods. Makita anti tip only works on Makita Tracks. Otherwise Makita and Festool are interchangeable tracks. I regularly use Makita and Festool on the same projects.

Don't know if you have seen this: https://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-...MIgZ-budLW5QIVyR-tBh2sVgx_EAQYASABEgKc-vD_BwE

Almost tempted to add a second Makita to the herd.......

Downside of Makita is permanently attached way too short power cord. Extension cord means the plug/receptacle can catch on the edge and cause issues.

Dewalt uses their own screwy tracks. That would kill anything unless almost free.

I think the Festool has become a bit too dear pricewise but it depends on your needs.

Bosch is one of the base Mafell models so does have their track setup that is nicer to haul around and connect multiple tracks.
 

Chevota Guy

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Which track saw do you have?

Mine is a Festool TS55REQ. It is a very good saw and I like the riving knife. What I don't like about it is that the electronic motor torque/speed control has a sound that I have never gotten used to as if there are loose gears in the drive train. It is perfectly normal, just have never liked that. I do change blades depending on what I'm cutting, but it still seems underpowered at times as others have mentioned.

I've read many good things about the Makita as well as the Maffell produced Bosch that they would easily be in my consideration if I was buying one today. Also, Bosch has just announced a new track saw that has a very different motor set up, but details are pretty sparse presently.

I used my tracksaw to build a full wall entertainment cabinet system before I had the DeWalt. Even with parallel guides, ripping narrow pieces of stock such as for face frames and door components was unpleasant with the tracksaw which is why I purchased the 7491RS, but the tracksaw was definitely a game changer for me.
 
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