Which Vessel USB Screwdriver?

[JeffBoyardee]

Firstly, I don't like the DeWalt gyroscopic driver. It's just not for me. Now that that's out of the way....

My electric screwdriver finally broke, and I bought a Vessel USB driver. (220USB-S1) Its super nice, but I'm considering returning it. My only issue, is the Micro USB Type B, and this is probably just me being neurotic, but I wanted your opinions.

The Japanese versions use the old USB Micro Type B charging cables, and the japanese hex bits with the 13mm groove on the end.

The models with a U (which I'm guessing means made for US) use USB-C, and the US style hex bits the the 9mm end groove.

I like the bits they offer in the Japanese 13mm style, but I'm not sure if I'd rather have that, or the USB-C.

I also don't really need the Hi Torque version, so I'm not even considering those. What are your thoughts?

 

[GeoBruin]

This is what you want. USB-C, but with the longer shank for Japanese bits. It's also the 3 speed which gives you variable speed/torque options.

Vessel Electric Ball Grip https://a.co/d/5uqLcyu

I have one. It's great. I would actually prefer the usa style bit holder but that one is like twice as expensive right now.

 

[FigN⋅m]

would this work?

 

[mikey03]

What’s the pros and cons of American vs Japanese style bits? And how do I know which are which? Is it honestly just length one is 9 and one is 13 mm?

 

[JeffBoyardee]

What’s the pros and cons of American vs Japanese style bits? And how do I know which are which? Is it honestly just length one is 9 and one is 13 mm?

Honestly, I'm not 100% certain. A lot of the CNC Mills at my work are Japanese, and so are all of my vehicles, so I bought the Vessel bits because I know they're made to ISO 8764 (or JIS) standards. I also trust Vessel quality. I have also read that the 13mm ends are less likely to "wobble" because it's a longer projection. Leverage and all that (but that could be BS). I know that the 9mm bits will fit into a 13mm collet, but there will be axial slop, unless you use the Makita spacer, or just make one yourself. However, the 13mm bits will not fit in a US (9mm) driver.

If I'm being honest, I also bought the 13mm because I made this purchase a good ways into Friday Happy Hour, Safety Meeting, De-Briefing, whatever you'd like to call it. .

This is what you want. USB-C, but with the longer shank for Japanese bits. It's also the 3 speed which gives you variable speed/torque options.

Vessel Electric Ball Grip https://a.co/d/5uqLcyu

I have one. It's great. I would actually prefer the usa style bit holder but that one is like twice as expensive right now.

Close. But I'd prefer the higher speed. What's weird is, this one is USB-C and uses the USA bits, however, the speed claim is odd. It says 1200rpm. But max speed selection is 400rpm. Is that the one you're referring to that's twice as expensive?

would this work?

It would, sort of. But it's an additional piece. And I'd lose it in a heartbeat.

 

[mattstevens]

What’s the pros and cons of American vs Japanese style bits? And how do I know which are which? Is it honestly just length one is 9 and one is 13 mm?

Another advantage of the Japanese chucks and longer bit shanks is the ability to use combi bits with two full-size heads. Vessel makes a bunch:

https://www.vessel.co.jp/userfiles/catalog23/catalog_construction-bits_E.pdf

The way to tell is just look at the shank and see if it looks longer than normal. The actual length can vary a bit, standard shanks will be 13-14mm, combi bits can be longer including the tip. The Japanese chucks have a recess at the bottom for the tips to go into.

I have not tried them but worth noting Vessel does make a range of bits with a standard shank in their industrial line:

https://www.vessel.co.jp/userfiles/catalog23/catalog_id-bits_E.pdf

Close. But I'd prefer the higher speed. What's weird is, this one is USB-C and uses the USA bits, however, the speed claim is odd. It says 1200rpm. But max speed selection is 400rpm.

I think the 1200 RPM listed on that page is a copy/paste error on the site, the max speed for the three-speed model is 400 RPM. The three-speed model is the only one with USB-C as far as I know, so you can either have USB-C or high speed.

220USB-S1 - 1200 RPM, Japanese chuck, micro-USB
220USB-S1U - 1200 RPM, standard chuck, micro-USB
220USB-P1 - 280/340/400 RPM, Japanese chuck, USB-C
220USB-P5U - 280/340/400 RPM, standard chuck, USB-C, same tool as 220USB-P1 other than the chuck and number of bits it comes with

There are also some "limited" versions of the 220USB-P1 sold in Japan in different colors, same tool otherwise.

 

[JeffBoyardee]

But wait, there's more!

220USB-1U -High torque/Low speed, American chuck, micro-usb

But maybe you left that out because I said I wasn't interested in low speed.

That helps though. Because if I have to choose between USB-C and high speed, I'm picking high speed. I'm not sure I really care about the chuck either way.

It doesn't help that there is VesselTools com, vesseltoolsusa.com, and VesselTools.co.jp. This is really killing my ADHD.

 

[GeoBruin]

But wait, there's more!

220USB-1U -High torque/Low speed, American chuck, micro-usb

But maybe you left that out because I said I wasn't interested in low speed.

That helps though. Because if I have to choose between USB-C and high speed, I'm picking high speed. I'm not sure I really care about the chuck either way.

It doesn't help that there is VesselTools com, vesseltoolsusa.com, and VesselTools.co.jp. This is really killing my ADHD.

Because if I have to choose between USB-C and high speed, I'm picking high speed

Really? Even if the high speed driver makes only 20% of the torque? These are not high torque drivers to begin with.

 

[JeffBoyardee]

Really? Even if the high speed driver makes only 20% of the torque? These are not high torque drivers to begin with.

I'm not concerned about the torque. I'm not using the torque to tighten a screw. Just using it to run them in and out. My wrist still works, lol.

 

[GeoBruin]

I'm not concerned about the torque. I'm not using the torque to tighten a screw. Just using it to run them in and out. My wrist still works, lol.

Oh I get you, and I generally agree, I would just be worried that anything larger than about a #8 machine screw in anything other than pristine threads would get hung up. Maybe I'm too pessimistic.

 

[loganb]

I love mine, purchased from Epsteins. And yes USB C

 

[JeffBoyardee]

Oh I get you, and I generally agree, I would just be worried that anything larger than about a #8 machine screw in anything other than pristine threads would get hung up. Maybe I'm too pessimistic.

I mean, I don't think it's THAT low torque. I don't use mine for very big stuff anyways.

 

[JeffBoyardee]

I love mine, purchased from Epsteins. And yes USB C

USB C? The packaging for that model shows Type B.

Also, what's Epstein's? I try to stay ignorant, otherwise I'll never retire.

 

[loganb]

USB C? The packaging for that model shows Type B.

Also, what's Epstein's? I try to stay ignorant, otherwise I'll never retire.

Well ****...you're correct it's type b/micro. I usually only buy things with type C but apparently made an exception here.

And if you want to keep your money, do not Google Harry Epsteins tool paradise in Kansas City...home of box art!

 

[Git]

I am having a hard time trying to figure out why you would return it because it's not USB-C?

 

[Stubby1743]

USB C is becoming the World standard for charging sockets.

Is it honestly just length one is 9 and one is 13 mm?

Yes it is. The position of the groove affects whether or not the bits will lock into quick release chucks.

If you want to use (and lock) 9mm bits in a chuck designed for 13mm bits, you can use a Makita Bit Piece (or make your own) to make up the extra length.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/gp/product/B00GJ0O54W/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_6?smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5&psc=1

You can grind the end of 13mm bits down to 9mm.

 

[mike93lx]

I don't fault you at all for not wanting micro USB. When I see stuff that has it, it automatically rules the device out. Nothing should be still using it in 2025

 

[JeffBoyardee]

I am having a hard time trying to figure out why you would return it because it's not USB-C?

Because it's outdated, it's not durable. It's another different type of cord to keep around the house.

 

[bwringer]

Because it's outdated, it's not durable. It's another different type of cord to keep around the house.

Yup. Micro USB charging ports absolutely, 100%, without a doubt, WILL fail.

Micro USB is not welcome in my home and garage.

They're evil shite.

 

[Etchase]

I’m fine with micro USB. I have a lifetime supply of chargers. The Vessel and the majority of small tools, lights, and appliances don’t take advantage of the faster charge rate anyway. Bullet connectors never plugged with dirt, and had so much surface area, corrosion wasn’t a problem. Strain relief was more robust as well. USB is primarily a data transfer bus, and is not optimized for charging, but it’s what we have.

 

[JeffBoyardee]

I’m fine with micro USB. I have a lifetime supply of chargers. The Vessel and the majority of small tools, lights, and appliances don’t take advantage of the faster charge rate anyway. Bullet connectors never plugged with dirt, and had so much surface area, corrosion wasn’t a problem. Strain relief was more robust as well. USB is primarily a data transfer bus, and is not optimized for charging, but it’s what we have.

I'm not sure I agree with that last sentence. Sure, it may not be meant for charging large batteries. And it may not have started life as a charging connection, but as for small devices, USB -C does a better job that any other types of charging I've used.

 

[GeoBruin]

I'm not sure I agree with that last sentence. Sure, it may not be meant for charging large batteries. And it may not have started life as a charging connection, but as for small devices, USB -C does a better job that any other types of charging I've used.

USB-C is just the shape of the plug. The power specification can be different based on the rating of the cable etc, but the new(ish) USB-PD 3.1 specification allows for up to 240 watts. That's a ton of power.