Which Way To Go.....

[SKULLY]

To start off, howdy to Everyone here, I have ????'s that I'd like to put out here. I was dead set on a steel/frame/steel clad garage, then it happened. I have seen many pole barns/garages and thats what I have now but I have thought also about a solid concrete block or partial block/stick frame the rest and also considered fully formed/poured concrete. Believe it or not the costs are fairly close to each other, what are Your thoughts and any suggestions that You may have done different, I will be building this summer and am a little shall I say "out there", all 3 types have My likes and dislikes, what You think, also eave height of the building will be 12-14ft, havent decided yet, peace.......

 

[SteveU]

I have a 100' x 40' x 14' barn with the front part walled off at 48'. Back in 2000, the back half collapsed from snow load so I had it rebuilt with double 2 x 12 headers which replaced the 2 x 6's it was originally built with in 1973. At that time I thought about going with a 10' eve to make it easier to heat but am glad I stuck with 14', any lift will work, no problem hitting lights doing woodworking & with the IR tube heat it shouldn't be too bad to heat. I am happy with it as is, about the only thing I wished I'd done is add another 8' to the width. What I did to insulate it was to nail 2 x 4's horozontal & staple insulation to them then put up 1/2" insulation board & plywood over that on the walls. The ceiling was left over metal siding from the old barn screwed to the joists & about 12" of blown in insulation put in. Keep it at least 12' so you can put in a lift at some time in the future and you can run 10' vertical piping from your compressor which gets rid of your water problem.

 

[Bib Overalls]

Concrete and masonary (brick/block) are good in tropical zones where termites and hurricanes are a concern and more northern locations when heating is not.

All steel and post construction is indicated when wall height exceeds 10 feet and interior finish is not a concern.

Stick construction is indicated when wall height is 10 feet or less and inerior and/or exterior finish is a concern. Stick buildings are the easiest to insullate and finish out.

A lot depends on where you are and the intended use of the building. A shop in a rural location can be all steel or post construction with metal siding. But the same building in an urban residential neighborhood may require brick vineer, stuco, or lap style siding to fit in.

I have a 30' x 40' shop with 10' walls. Metal truss frame with wood purlins and metal roof and siding. 1" "AgBoard" insullation. But still expensive to heat and cool. My next shop, if there is one, will be a hybred: post construction with stud infill, metal roof and siding, batt insullation, and finished interior walls and ceiling. I'm going to buy a lottery ticket Monday. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

 

[SKULLY]

Thanx Fellers for the info, much appreciated.......peace