Whichi pliers for small electronics?
- Thread starter Ita0101
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rlwhitetr3b
Well-known member
I have two channel lock pliers I use for electronics. They are about 4 to 5 inches long. One is needle nose and the other is diagonal cutters. They are 40 years old so the quality might not be the same on their current products.
captaindiode
Well-known member
4 inch diagonal cutters. Xcelite is a good choice. Flush cut will cut a flat end on the wire but will dull more easily. Regular diagonal cutter pinch the wire into and leave a sharp end on the wire, but hold up longer.
Simplytodd
Well-known member
Knipex ESD plier set. Round cutters, diagonal, and flush. Has flat nose, curved and straight needle nose pliers. They are about the best you can get. Be prepared to pay for them though.
Like mentioned the Excelite brand is good bang for the buck though.
Like mentioned the Excelite brand is good bang for the buck though.
rcktsled
Well-known member
Xuron. Nice quality, made in USA, reasonable price, and available on Amazon. If you were going to be using these tools 40 hours a week I would say get the Knipex. For hobbyist use, the Xuron is more than adequate.
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
I actually use hemostats more than pliers when working with electronics.
fotoflojoe
Well-known member
Pliers for small electronics? Xuron all the way.
https://www.xuron.com/
https://www.xuron.com/
Jmonnty
Well-known member
Xcelite C1K
I have this set and added a couple add I needed them.
I have this set and added a couple add I needed them.
Swanstrom has a selection that can make your head spin.
You'd probably want to look at the "Super Tools" line: http://www.swanstromtools.com/Super_Tools.pdf
You'd probably want to look at the "Super Tools" line: http://www.swanstromtools.com/Super_Tools.pdf
Speaker crossovers are not exactly "small electronics". Typical components are large capacitor, resistor and inductor (coil) leads. Don't buy tiny pliers, as you may need to bend wire upwards of 14 gauge for large inductors.
Most any needle-nose pliers will be fine. Go to any HD/Lowes/Menards/Sears and find a pair you like.
Most any needle-nose pliers will be fine. Go to any HD/Lowes/Menards/Sears and find a pair you like.
considering OP hasn't logged in since first post...25 hrs ago
Very underappreciated, the absolute BEST pliers made in the USA, no one else is close in fit and finish.
I mostly use Knipex but Xcelite, Pro America, Schmitz and Tronex are all top notch. The Hakko (made by Piergiacomi in Italy) flush cutters on Amazon can't be beat for under $5.
You'd also want hemostats. Sometimes when taking out the electronics in professional powered speakers hemostats are the only way to disconnect and reconnect the speakers without taking off the grill and taking out the speaker...saves a lot of time.
Also, Engineer screw removing pliers are great for electronics. Sounds crazy right? Well a lot of time the caps are glued/siliconed together, you desolder then break away the binding material between caps then you use the screw removing pliers to pull the round cap out breaking the rest of the binding material. If you use regular pliers you'll squish the cap or mar it which may remove the value on the cap.
Very good technique for one off speaker crossover building is to use a lugged barrier strip and screw down all the connections.
Getting a good crossover often takes several attempts, so no point in cutting any leads or soldiering until you have a final design (which may never happen).
Getting a good crossover often takes several attempts, so no point in cutting any leads or soldiering until you have a final design (which may never happen).
Thanks a lot for response guys!
I think I will buy the Xuron or Xcelite, they seems to fits my needs & budget.
I live in Israel so I will purchase from Amazon, its my best option.
What is the recommendation for affordable all around pliers for the DIYer? 5" 6"
Thanks!
I think I will buy the Xuron or Xcelite, they seems to fits my needs & budget.
I live in Israel so I will purchase from Amazon, its my best option.
What is the recommendation for affordable all around pliers for the DIYer? 5" 6"
Thanks!
bwringer
Well-known member
Let’s be real for a minute, from someone with the speakerbuilding virus. The only tools you really need to build crossovers are the following:
-cable shears
-a good wire stripper
-a good crimper
-a good screwdriver for terminal blocks
-any suitable set of bending pliers (optional)
That said, here are are pliers I’ve used recently in the course of assembling, disassembling, or tweaking a passive crossover:
Not pictured above but also very useful: quality ratcheting crimping pliers, like the ones in the background below.
Drive units with tabs should always be connected with quick disconnect terminals and not soldered. The reasons are ease of replacement, time, resale value, and reusability. You can solder the wire to the quick disconnect terminals, but crimping is much faster. The common audiophile obfuscation-jargon for crimping is “cold welding.” The common quick disconnect sizes on drive units are 4.8mm (.187”) and 2.8mm (.110”).
I rarely solder anything in a crossover. I prefer using insulated barrier strips ("Euroblock terminals" is one term for them; the rest of the world uses these blocks the way we use wire nuts in home wiring) like the ones in the top picture for connections between components. There's no need to crimp or solder lugs when you use these terminal strips. I believe they are safer than lugged terminal blocks, too.
-cable shears
-a good wire stripper
-a good crimper
-a good screwdriver for terminal blocks
-any suitable set of bending pliers (optional)
That said, here are are pliers I’ve used recently in the course of assembling, disassembling, or tweaking a passive crossover:
Not pictured above but also very useful: quality ratcheting crimping pliers, like the ones in the background below.
Drive units with tabs should always be connected with quick disconnect terminals and not soldered. The reasons are ease of replacement, time, resale value, and reusability. You can solder the wire to the quick disconnect terminals, but crimping is much faster. The common audiophile obfuscation-jargon for crimping is “cold welding.” The common quick disconnect sizes on drive units are 4.8mm (.187”) and 2.8mm (.110”).
I rarely solder anything in a crossover. I prefer using insulated barrier strips ("Euroblock terminals" is one term for them; the rest of the world uses these blocks the way we use wire nuts in home wiring) like the ones in the top picture for connections between components. There's no need to crimp or solder lugs when you use these terminal strips. I believe they are safer than lugged terminal blocks, too.
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guy48065
Well-known member
I'm late to the party but wanted to add an unmentioned brand.
A couple decades ago when I worked for deep-pocket suppliers to Uncle Sam there was only one brand we wanted from the tool crib: Erem. Swiss made and still the best.
We shoved off the Xcelite tools on interns!
A couple decades ago when I worked for deep-pocket suppliers to Uncle Sam there was only one brand we wanted from the tool crib: Erem. Swiss made and still the best.
We shoved off the Xcelite tools on interns!
whateg01
Well-known member
For needlenose pliers, I have some from Swanstrom that are relatively short but have about 3" long handles and similar diagonals. I actually use some heavy tweezers for most small components from Peer. They are fairly stiff, but allow excellent control and don't flex like cheap ones. They all feel a little expensive, but are good stuff.
Dave
Dave
Thanks a lot guys! that is a lot of useful information!
I will searched in forum for recommended brands for those tools. The Klien wire strippers seems to be highly recommended.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXKOEQ6/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I hate buying things twice so I trying to figure what will last for years for those applications + home set.
Thanks again!
I will searched in forum for recommended brands for those tools. The Klien wire strippers seems to be highly recommended.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXKOEQ6/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I hate buying things twice so I trying to figure what will last for years for those applications + home set.
Thanks again!
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whateg01
Well-known member
I have had a couple sets of those wire strippers. Usually worked pretty well for me, but I've since come to prefer strippers like these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01018CVM0/?tag=atomicindus08-20
They require different jaws for a different range of wire sizes, but I think they do a more consistent job of getting all of the insulation. It's also what we use at work where we build electronic test equipment. I'm not sure what brand we have at work. They may not be these same ones, but they operate the same way.
Dave
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01018CVM0/?tag=atomicindus08-20
They require different jaws for a different range of wire sizes, but I think they do a more consistent job of getting all of the insulation. It's also what we use at work where we build electronic test equipment. I'm not sure what brand we have at work. They may not be these same ones, but they operate the same way.
Dave
Which size and type of screwdriver I need for the terminal blocks? Slotted 2.5 mm?
I bought few days ago Tekton Long Nose 45 deg. Pliers and Hakko Cutter.
I think buy the next tools, still reading about the models:
- Knipex combination pliers / Gedore JC Angle Combination Pliers
- Knipex Long Nose Pliers / Channellocks Long Nose Pliers
- Swanstorn 3" Long nose Pliers (Small)
- Chanellocks Cables shaers
- Wire strippers - Carpi Precision Wire Stripper / Klien 11055 (Other options will be welcome)
What is the difference between the Crimper and the ratcheting crimping pliers?
What are the Orbis yellow tool, the Knipex on the right, the Gedore on the right and the VBM?
Any recommendation will be appreciated!
I bought few days ago Tekton Long Nose 45 deg. Pliers and Hakko Cutter.
I think buy the next tools, still reading about the models:
- Knipex combination pliers / Gedore JC Angle Combination Pliers
- Knipex Long Nose Pliers / Channellocks Long Nose Pliers
- Swanstorn 3" Long nose Pliers (Small)
- Chanellocks Cables shaers
- Wire strippers - Carpi Precision Wire Stripper / Klien 11055 (Other options will be welcome)
What is the difference between the Crimper and the ratcheting crimping pliers?
What are the Orbis yellow tool, the Knipex on the right, the Gedore on the right and the VBM?
Any recommendation will be appreciated!
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whateg01
Well-known member
Buy a set of micro screwdrivers. The larger sizes can be used for screw terminals. The smaller ones can be used as a tweeker.
Dave
Dave
Go for Wiha precision screwdrivers.
Get the Knipex cable shears, it's worth the extra money in my opinion.
I like the Felo 0715762681 automatic strippers for new wire, the big Irwin automatic wire strippers work on a bigger variety but I prefer the Felos. Knipex rebrands a nice one too, the OEM escapes my mind at the moment.
Ratcheting crimpers are just better, you probably don't need them but it's nice to have...most of what I recommend is similar, you can do it with less but if you can afford it, you'll appreciate the results. You don't NEED a cable sheer but it produces better results.
guy48065
Well-known member
DO get this type of crimper unless you're positive you'll only be using soft insulation like PVC. If you start toying with "audiophile" wire and Teflon insulation the self-adjusting strippers will only bruise the insulation--it won't cut it.
If you like the very best get a thermal stripper. Can be adjusted to cut through anything but fiberglass and will never nick the conductors.
Depends on terminal. I like to use the biggest that will fit. I keep Elora 2.5mm and Stahlwille-branded Witte 3.5mm slotted precision drivers in my portable audio tool case. Really anything big enough with a spinner cap should be fine, even a cheapie. If you’re bending slotted blades in a Euroblock, you’re doing it wrong.
I have a Hakko flush cutter. I think it’s pretty much useless for speaker wire, but works very well on network cable and line level audio cables. Your experience may differ.
My Knipex ESD flush cutter was 10x the price, but not much if any better performing or more comfortable.
Get better ones. The Orbis EvoShark or a rebrand is my recommendation. You’ll really want spring-loaded cutters for speaker cables, and the angled blade makes them the most comfortable to use.
The Kleins are not very good. The holes are also designed for solid core wires. I have something similar to the Capri, branded “Ideal.” It’s OK but I don’t prefer it.
Speaker wire varies enough that an adjustible stripper is best. There are three types.
The first are wholly manual, with an adjustment screw to set cut depth. They look like this:
They work, especially if you just buy a large spool of wire and use it for everything. Initial adjustment is a pain.
The second type are the squeeze type. Jokari makes a lot of these, including I think the Felo above. Others are better placed to discuss these, as I have never used one.
The higher end squeeze options are Pressmaster Embla and rebrands (mine say “Wiha”) and Weidmüller Stripax. I’ve never used Stripax. I generally like Embla, though I wish it caught the stripped insulation. These offer replaceable blades, and blades for Teflon. ApexJr is a great US source for Teflon-coated wire in speaker-appropriate sizes. There may be export restrictions on such wire.
If you must use a stripper with fixed holes, get your wire from an industrial brand such as Belden. I saw a study somewhere of 12 gage wire marketed as speaker wire that showed huge deviations from spec.
Ratcheting units give a consistent crimp because tool determines crimp force, and are easier to use because you can insert the connector, squeeze the handles until the jaws hold it, insert the wire, and execute the crimp. The downsides are price and specialization.
The Orbis is a precision combi plier. They have a flat grip, a nut grip, and a cutter. These are old. Note the “W. Germany.” I bought them a few years on eBay as NOS. I don’t know if anyone makes anything like that today. Knipex has always similar sized ones, but with bulkier heads.
The Knipex is their 180mm Cobra with Knipex soft plastic caps on the jaws. Turns them into Cannon connector pliers, more or less. The caps are a little big. They are sized for the 250mm Cobra. But they work fine. Heatshrink will have the same effect, but the caps are almost as cheap. I use them mostly to torque down adjustable mike stands when I measure speakers. I think the 180mm VBW/Stahlwille Fastgrip is a better tool. I’ve returned 180mm Cobras for jaw alignment issue.
The Gedore on the right is a round nose plier. It has very minimalist grooves inside. I use them to bend component leads, but they are an indulgence. Long nose pliers work just as well.
The VBW is their “Powergrip,” pliers wrench in 180mm. Good any time you need to torque something down without risk of marring it. Knipex’s pliers wrench is just as good, and they have cushion grips available. I like the VBW handle shape and overall balance a little better. Stahlwille’s is the VBW. Get whichever is cheaper. I own, use, and like both.
I have the Snap on ones. The cutter are great they get dull I get a replacement. There is a full range of needle nose and the like for most applications.
I use a Teledyne wire striper removes insulation with heat. Does not damage the wire like most stripers do. If you do Hi density connectors with 28 ga wire you can not afford to nick the wire or loose a strand.
I have a few cannon type pliers as in limited space situations some fit better than others.
I use a Teledyne wire striper removes insulation with heat. Does not damage the wire like most stripers do. If you do Hi density connectors with 28 ga wire you can not afford to nick the wire or loose a strand.
I have a few cannon type pliers as in limited space situations some fit better than others.
Negen
Well-known member
I am a low voltage electrical technician and my go to pliers are kieba. My wire strippers are proto. Snips I have kieba , engineer and a German brand called smitchz I believe. For micro drivers I have wiha mixed Vietnam and German made.
Sent from my G8141 using The Garage Journal mobile app
Sent from my G8141 using The Garage Journal mobile app
Thanks a lot for the comments!
What a wonderful information!
This the list right now:
Knipex Combination Pliers 160
Knipex Cable Shears
Knipex Needle Nose Pliers
Knipex ESD 35 22 115
Swanstorm 3" Needle Nose (Or similar)
VBW Power grip (help me to maintain my espresso machine)
Jakory / Wiha Strippers
Klien Ratcheting Crimper
What do you say guys?
Thanks!
What a wonderful information!
This the list right now:
Knipex Combination Pliers 160
Knipex Cable Shears
Knipex Needle Nose Pliers
Knipex ESD 35 22 115
Swanstorm 3" Needle Nose (Or similar)
VBW Power grip (help me to maintain my espresso machine)
Jakory / Wiha Strippers
Klien Ratcheting Crimper
What do you say guys?
Thanks!
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I think that’s a lot of small pliers, but if you want to try a few that makes sense.
Also if you don’t want the best cable shears (Orbis EvoShark) then Knipex’s stainless spring loaded scissor style ones (or similar from
other brands) are probably second best and cheaper than forged pliers.
https://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=art_detail&parentID=1371&groupID=1430&artID=3553
I like NWS’s forged ones better than all of Knipex’s except the EvoShark.
Lastly, does Klein make a ratcheting crimper? I’ve never seen it.
Klien Ratcheting:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...s=aps&field-keywords=Klien+Ratcheting+crimper
The Knipex Shears looks nice and in a good price
How much pliers will be enough and not too much? What are the MUST have ?
Thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...s=aps&field-keywords=Klien+Ratcheting+crimper
The Knipex Shears looks nice and in a good price
How much pliers will be enough and not too much? What are the MUST have ?
Thanks!
davethorik
Well-known member
I have one pair of lightly used Erem Swiss-made micro flush cutters I bought cheap on ebay. Model 632NCF. They were used in a factory that made medical implants to cut small-diameter silicone tubing, and are retired after so often. Still look and cut new.
$75 new on Amazon. IIRC I paid $15, with orig cardboard box. These things are sharp, and leave a nice smooth true flush cut. Idk if I'd wanna pony up full price to replace them, but are very nice.
$75 new on Amazon. IIRC I paid $15, with orig cardboard box. These things are sharp, and leave a nice smooth true flush cut. Idk if I'd wanna pony up full price to replace them, but are very nice.
Most of those are for network cables, but the $75 kit with 3 dies should work for most insulated and open barrel terminals. No die for non insulated terminals though.
See top of post 18
I know I'm not the person to ask. This is just my Knipex stuff and this pic is 8 months old so there's several pairs missing.
davethorik -
Thanks, I think go Schmitz for the small ones, I have locally less then 20$ for new.
JBH -
Thanks for your patience.
BMack37 -
That is beautiful.
the list :>
Orbis EvoShark Cable Shears
WEIDMÜLLER Wire Cutter Or the Wiha, the ease of use and the blade for teflon looks awesome.
Or Jakori style + Coax stripper (seems more reasonable)
Wiha Screwdriver Set
Knipex Combination Pliers
What Crimper is recommended?
It seems like an expensive tool.
Thanks, I think go Schmitz for the small ones, I have locally less then 20$ for new.
JBH -
Thanks for your patience.
BMack37 -
That is beautiful.
the list :>
Orbis EvoShark Cable Shears
WEIDMÜLLER Wire Cutter Or the Wiha, the ease of use and the blade for teflon looks awesome.
Or Jakori style + Coax stripper (seems more reasonable)
Wiha Screwdriver Set
Knipex Combination Pliers
What Crimper is recommended?
It seems like an expensive tool.
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