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"White Fort" in South Texas

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JoeGarageHand

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2011
Messages
14
Dipan,

I am planning on buying the same Bendpak lift for my new garage. When planning for placement of the lift I was struggling a bit with the proper distance to place the post from the wall. Can you tell me how far off the wall you have the left post?

Thanks!
 
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dankicksass

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Joined
Jul 28, 2010
Messages
1,820
Location
New Jersey
Also, I assume it's okay to load a mid engine car backwards on an asymmetrical lift. The weight rear-biased so should be the same as loading a front engine car forwards. The car's so small that it probably doesn't matter either way. Even the doors clear when loaded backwards.

I do it like that with MR-2/MR-S whenever I get one at work since they almost always come in for maintenance only and the loud bit is all there. I don't think it really matters much for the lift though, as long as your contact points are solid you'll be okay. I do almost all engine/trans swap work with the car in the lift backwards, never seemed to affect anything. Your in-floor lighting looks awesome.
 
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dipan

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Joined
May 24, 2012
Messages
178
Location
South Texas
Dipan,

I am planning on buying the same Bendpak lift for my new garage. When planning for placement of the lift I was struggling a bit with the proper distance to place the post from the wall. Can you tell me how far off the wall you have the left post?

Less than 2' from the wall. I may not be the best person to judge if more or less is needed seeing as I've lifted one car once so far ... but, looks like it is fine, not an issue for me. You could probably go to 1' or less without a problem.
 

marty_p

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Joined
Aug 1, 2008
Messages
1,411
Location
SE LoUiSiAna
Hello neighbor, and congrats on earning the well-deserved TGJ home page.

You have a very awesome workspace, dipan! :thumbup:
 

Pruettfan

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2013
Messages
8
Another great idea on this forum that I am going to borrow. Thanks for posting this for us to see and congrats on the new CTS
 

Fassstone

New member
Joined
Jun 13, 2011
Messages
1
Great build and I am sure your happy to be to a place where you can begin to reap the benefit of such a great build. I put lights in the floor of my garage and did quite a bit of research on it, there are several different approaches you can use but the one I went with was what are called "Drive-over" lights, you typically see these in the driveways of nice hotels. They will support up to 3,000 lbs are designed for outdoor use so are very tough. However the bad news is that are pretty darn pricey at over 500.00 each. You have a varity of lighting type options. I am really interested in how your fixtures hold up under the car.

Richard
 

Dude Lebowski

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Joined
Sep 14, 2011
Messages
55
Location
Tulsa
Great looking build. I too had some issues with interference with ceiling joists and my bendpak lift. I managed to solve it without getting a structural engineer or the truss mfr involved. I'm an engineer myself so I chose to modify the lift to suit my requirements as that was far cheaper and quicker than modifying a load bearing truss. As far as the snooker table goes, might I suggest a full size (9ft) pool table instead. I grew up in Australia playing on snooker tables and installed them for a living while going thru college. Unless your friends are exceptional at billiards and play all the time, I would pass. Even on a full size pool table I'd venture 9 out of 10 people who play on my table **** and a single game takes forever. Add more distance and smaller, rounded pockets to the mix and a game very well may go on forever.
 
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dipan

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Joined
May 24, 2012
Messages
178
Location
South Texas
Great looking build. I too had some issues with interference with ceiling joists and my bendpak lift. I managed to solve it without getting a structural engineer or the truss mfr involved. I'm an engineer myself so I chose to modify the lift to suit my requirements as that was far cheaper and quicker than modifying a load bearing truss. As far as the snooker table goes, might I suggest a full size (9ft) pool table instead. I grew up in Australia playing on snooker tables and installed them for a living while going thru college. Unless your friends are exceptional at billiards and play all the time, I would pass. Even on a full size pool table I'd venture 9 out of 10 people who play on my table **** and a single game takes forever. Add more distance and smaller, rounded pockets to the mix and a game very well may go on forever.

I know what you mean with the snooker table. It's already a difficult game and add the size of the table to the mix ... Well most people would be very bad. I used to shoot a lot of pool when I was younger so got very good at it. Only played on 9 foot tables (pool snob :)) ... There was a place in Boston called Jillian's. It was before the chain spread all over the place I believe. I had never seen any others at the time anyway. They had taken over a skating rink in a warehouse on a street with all the big dance clubs. The whole rink was kept, brass railings added. Aside from the brass and wood everything else was black. The staff all wore black also. It was a great place ... spent a LOT of money there. Anyway, they had a 12 foot snooker table there, the only one I had the privilege to play on. My buddies and I went through a snooker phase and got to be okay playing it. Man it was so easy to nearly run the table on a 9ft table after that. Every time. Pockets were HUGE. Distances so small. That was a great feeling. I guess I don't really have the time to play so much anymore, but it would be nice having a 12 foot snooker table. Unfortunately, they are not so easy to come by here in the USA. They are not so popular. I might just wait for a good deal to fall in my lap on a 9ft table as you recommend ...
 

magnusk750

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Joined
Nov 6, 2010
Messages
501
Location
Estonia
Sorry for party pooping... but aren't those lights extremely dazzling when doing any kind of work under the car?
 
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dipan

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Joined
May 24, 2012
Messages
178
Location
South Texas
Sorry for party pooping... but aren't those lights extremely dazzling when doing any kind of work under the car?

No biggie ... the lights are on a switch so if they become annoying (which I have not found to be the case), I can switch them off. I have spent some time under car now and can say that it is not annoying at all. It may not be enough light to do some jobs, so a headlight would still be useful, but I have not run across that job yet.... but probably will.
 
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dipan

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Joined
May 24, 2012
Messages
178
Location
South Texas
Thought I'd post up some pics of the floor before/during/after the grinding/polishing process:

Before:
4m5HtMm.jpg

RxXriAV.jpg


During:
15 grit grinding takes off a lot of material leaving quite a sloppy mess when done wet:
Cu2DH7d.jpg

Finer grits done dry:
f2XA8hW.jpg


After:
VKD3i1I.jpg

5vh7PZU.jpg


Closeup:
Epc14Fh.jpg
 
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TheJudge

Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2014
Messages
23
Location
Fingerlakes, New York
This has been quite the build man! The recessed lights in the concrete are a really neat addition, certainly giving me ideas for my future build. Keep on rockin!:thumbup:
 

JordonMusser

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Joined
Jan 5, 2009
Messages
367
Location
Dallas, TX
Remind me what you coated it with after grinding? Looks great. my budget is smashed and I am not sure I want to swing porcelain tile as I had planned...
 

Riley

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
Messages
398
If I remember he had mentioned "Prosco". They have a densifer and gloss industrial level product that reduces the grinding as opposed to doing a full "polish" by probably 4 steps with resultant savings in time and cost.

I'm not a pro and I didn't sleep in a Holiday Inn last night.....

http://www.prosoco.com/FinishedConcrete
 

JDishong

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Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
358
Location
Prosper, Texas
dipan - I am considering grind/polish concrete on my garage as well. Can you share information on cost/sq ft to polish , did you consider DIY, overall thickness removed < 1/4"? Is the floor slippery now? I think my integral color concrete would look great with the polished exposed aggregate. Love how yours turn out.
 
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dipan

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Joined
May 24, 2012
Messages
178
Location
South Texas
dipan - I am considering grind/polish concrete on my garage as well. Can you share information on cost/sq ft to polish , did you consider DIY, overall thickness removed < 1/4"? Is the floor slippery now? I think my integral color concrete would look great with the polished exposed aggregate. Love how yours turn out.

Thanks John... I'm really happy with the floor. I think exposed aggregate with your integral gray dye would look fantastic. Really, that's the look I was trying to imitate with a topical dye on the exposed aggregate, but the dye ended up staining the aggregate also... Not what I wanted, and certainly not something I wanted to pay for. If you go with the topical sealer, the floor will get very dark. I'm not sure I would do that if I were you. At least do a test stain before you decide if/when it comes to it.

Cost was a bit more than $5000 for 1800 square feet. Too messy for me to DIY. Plus, there are other things that I would prefer to do with free time... And it took guys that know what they're doing a lot of time. I think I got a pretty good deal, though. Even my concrete guy now charges more.

The grind probably removed on average 1/4" or less. First few mm exposed the sandy slurry, then came larger and larger aggregate. My floor was a bit wavy so some areas had more material removed than others, so more aggregate exposed in areas and less in others.

Concrete at 800 grit grind is a little slippery, but not as bad as I was thinking. Certainly not as good as raw concrete but not too bad.
 
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dipan

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Joined
May 24, 2012
Messages
178
Location
South Texas
Picked up a welding table from a guy that makes them, uses them a bit, then flips it on craigslist. It's pretty sturdy and has a side table for the chop saw. Finally playing around with a welder and trying to learn how to use it. My first practice pieces were thin sheet steel that turned out to be much harder to weld than I thought. The arc was just blasting through and the ends just melted away from the arc. It was a mess. My second try is on some thicker bar stock. This is TIG but looks like stick! Hopefully it will get better. Practice practice practice is what I hear...

TLiOudS.jpg

Z82UYEi.jpg
 
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