Oh buddy, I feel for you, you just opened up a whole can of worms. [emoji1787][emoji482]. Are you doing smooth, quarter-sawn? I believe 2" is too thin for rough sawn, it may be too thin for quarter-sawn as well. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I am going to speak from my personal experience and not from a product standpoint. Some may agree others may disagree. I suggest you call a professional wood flooring company, and at minimum do a few hours of research.
In my experience the best non topical coating for an oak floor would be a Danish oil until rejection. Some even say to put shellac on top of that. You can stain after the first light coat to add depth to the floor. There are many ways to apply Danish oil. The method that I was taught is as follows:
Using a low RPM swing buffer sand floor evenly to 220 grit. Use an orbital for perimeter and apparatuses.
Apply first coat with a microfiber mop heavy enough so there is some product sitting on top of the wood ready to absorb, but not puddling. Allow to set for 10-20 mins depending on temp and humidity, then wipe off the excess with a clean dry pad.. Cooler temperatures and higher humidity the oil may take longer to absorb. Warmer temperatures and lower humidity the oil may absorb faster. Let dry 2-6 hours depending on temp and humidity.
** If you planned on darkening the wood with stain this would be the time. You would want to apply your first coat at about half strength and let it soak for 5 minutes rather than 10. You would then apply your stain and wipe off the excess to allow the darker color to Accent The Valleys of the wood grain.**
You want the wood to be thirsty for your next coat. If you rush in between coats it will defeat the purpose. It is best for the top surface of the wood to be dry before applying your next coat.
Repeat this process 3 times
On your 4th application you must sand the oil into the wood floor with ~600 grit sandpaper.. this application, instead of wetting out the entire floor, you will apply the oil like you would a compound or polish to the hood of your car. A few droplets for a few square feet, you do not want to over or under saturate. Then wipe up the excess oil and sawdust slurry.
If you prefer a glossier finish than what you have at this point, you can saturate the floor to rejection a few more times until you get the desired sheen.
Tung oil (which Danish Oil is partly composed of) can be applied in a similar manner.
Anybody please feel free to correct me as it has been a while since I have finished wooden floors. That is in my past [emoji482]
