White Petrolatum as Rust Preventative

[_brian_]

In one of my other threads, this was mentioned and met with another user a bit surprised (as it seemed). It made me question this and do some looking. The result is I wanted to toss this off of the group here. Let me elaborate...

White petrolatum is often just called by one of its brand names, Vaseline.

I sometimes use this for rust prevention, mainly on bits, bit sockets and impact sockets. Basically anything with a black oxide or black phosphate coating that does not get used a lot or for some reasons ends up with surface rust a lot. I first did this out of need with limited resources and it worked out perfectly. Having done this more since then, I have never encountered any issues or rust on said tools.

What exactly did I do? I applied the white petrolatum to the tools with only a thin layer. As in a 14mm deep impact socket would get like 1/4 the size of a pea amount. Just enough to change the coloring of the socket (if that makes sense). I use a rag to sort of quickly buff it in, leaving the tool with no greasy residue or anything like that. Sort of the idea of a wax, just filling in the porous spaces and leaving a sealing coating on the surface (I presume).

I have never had any tools I have done this to rust. I am well aware that white petrolatum is a "slimy" product, and as stated I leave the tool with only the slightest bit of the product on it. I am also aware that the product is a petroleum based product. While this has never been an issue with the tools I have done this to, I would assume that any grease, like a silicone grease, could be used to the same effect.

I have used oil type products for this many times... 3-in-1 oil, WD-40, ATF, engine oil, etc... all of them work but seem to evaporate after a bit leaving the tools with a small amount of rust. A lesser amount than I otherwise would see, but rust nonetheless.

To the point of my query... does anyone see an issue with this practice given what I have stated? While it has worked for me, the post from the user here made me think... maybe there is something I am missing and just do not realize it yet. Feel free to comment, good or bad.

 

[zendriver]

I would agree it does work great but you end up with greasy tools, grease residue, wherever they sit and then every time you pick up a tool it’s greasy

It’s a solution in search of a problem iMO WD-40 or light oil Will keeps rust off of everything I own

 

[Dave455]

It works very well, I have some lesser used larger sockets that have a wipe of it inside as I write this.

It probably doesn’t work appreciably better than a thin wipe of grease, but it’s certainly longer lasting than the thinner oils. The only downside is that it’s harder to remove.

In the U.K. a mixture of Vaseline and Beeswax, mixed 50/50 and heated in a pan, was the traditional solution for rust proofing things long term. I’ve found many old cutting tools that have been so treated and have remained unaffected for decades.

In the U.K. it’s called “Petroleum Jelly”, and most chemists will sell large pots at much less cost than the branded Vaseline.

 

[Tools4Me]

I have never tried petroleum jelly personally, but I do use grease to protect my tools quite often. That being said, I mainly use grease on tools that sit for a while between uses. I also prefer paste wax for any tool that is used for woodworking.

For cheaper or consummable things like insert bits, I usually have them stored in small organizers. I will spray everything with a light coating of aerosol lithium grease and then wipe off the excess if I notice any small rust spots starting up. For larger tools or more expensive tools I use the thickest grease I can find and wipe a thin layer on the tool by hand. Ideally, it's a grease that's almost solid at room temps. No-ox-id (an electrical contact grease) is what I have been using for the last 10-15 years. I wipe it onto any bare metal parts and then hit the surface very quickly with a propane torch flame to temporarily melt the grease and help it soak deeply into the crevices of the steel. Once the grease has cooled back to room temp again, I wipe off any obvious excess using a lightly greased shop rag that I keep on hand at all times.

Once that initial grease application has been completed, I usually just wipe tools down with my lightly greased rag before putting them away if the tools got wet or were handled with bare fingers. If the tools stayed dry during use, and were handled while wearing nitrile gloves or mechanic style gloves I usually don't need to do anything.

 

[RTM]

As a woodworker, I hate anything "rust preventing" that contains oil, grease, or silicone products. Really plays hell with finishing steps, especiallly silicone products.

I'd imagine anything with a grease like consistency that prevents air from reaching the surface would would to prevent rust, but doesn't mean I'll use it.

 

[pfaustus]

Old school solution for tools going into storage or rarely used and kept under poor conditions. It works very well, but it a greasy pita when you need to use the tool. I used it when I had stuff in storage that kept rusting. Waxed tools rusted quickly. WD-40 was no better. A thicker oil was a little better. Tools coated in vasoline and tools in tightly closed wooden boxes fared best.

 

[dnschmidt]

What Vaseline is really good at is lubricating spray guns. I put it on the needle, the threads of the nozzle and the threads of the knob that adjusts the needle. I've used it for years. No silicone so no fish eyes.

 

[toolmiser]

I had a couple spots removed on my face and arm a couple weeks ago by doctor (all good reports), but he had me apply antibi cream for a week, and the second week to apply Vasoline 2-3 times a day. They are healing very well, faster than I anticipated. He said it would keep the area from drying out. He told me not to cover it (with bandage)

 

[_brian_]

One reason that came to mind that one might prefer the peritoneum jelly is that is is said to be safe for skin contact, vs a grease which generally is not.

I have personally never experienced any issues with it, as some stated it being hard to remove or making a mess. I use a very light coating, that I sort of buff, like a wax. Basically I place a small bit on my hand, rub it in/on, and wipe it off with a cotton towel. I guess as far as removal, I never had a need to do such a thing. There has never been enough on the tool to interfere with my using of the tool.

In my area in the US, we have winter starting here, so I might experiment a bit. There are other tools that are rust prone like pliers that I might try this on a few vs "normal" and see if there is any difference. So I can make a fair statement, I checked the price of this here, and for approx $2.50 USD I can get a 13 oz container, which compared to grease is cheaper and does not have the issue with white lithium grease (which is also cheap) where it dries out.

I also wanted to clarify what I am using. I use White Petrolatum, which is the same as Petroleum Jelly. It seems that the only difference is regional, at least as far as I know. My container states Petroleum Jelly on the front, but White Petrolatum as the ingredient on the back. It is the more refined version of the product, the one that is safe for use on skin, etc. It is not the industrial that is refined less, although I am sure it would work the same (but would likely cost more). I would not use the name "Vaseline" as it is a brand, and the actual product being referenced would always be uncertain. I am also not using any blend, just 100% pure. No additives for skin care variants.