Who makes quality wiring terminals?

[ephotrod]

Who makes quality wiring terminals and where can they be bought in bulk at a fair price? I use the cheap ones on occasion but am looking to buy good ones for items that matter, such as wiring a trailer and repair work.
Josh

 

[malibu101]

Thomas and Betts trademark name Sta-Kon comes to mind.

http://www.tnb.com/ps/endeca/index.cgi?a=nav&N=592+1010&Ntt=

 

[mrholeshot]

I buy mine through Lawson Products. Been using them for over 20 years and are great. I also used their, nuts, bolts and hardware.

 

[Jeff]

I only use Del City for my wiring supplies. They are a manufacturer that also sells direct. There is a $25 minimum order.

 

[SpiderGearsMan]

curtis or kent or premier or dorman or wurth ?

 

[Dennis The Menace]

Knipex and Weather Pack.

 

[kf4zht]

I have used connectors and supplies I buy from delcity for a few years. While I did not do it pro, every one of the firefighters on the department I was on had some of my wiring in their POVs, and all of the fire trucks in our station. I had a couple bad crimps, usually due to the crimpers or me, no failures due to the hardware.

 

[A29]

Del City has a lot of cool stuff.

 

[hilld]

3M Scotchlok terminals are the ones I use. You can buy them in packages of 10, 50 or 100 at your local electrical supply. Around here it is Platt Electric. They even have a kit if you are just getting started.

Here is an example, remember, this is list pricing.

http://www.shop3m.com/80610361273.h...ough&WT.mc_id=3M-com-GoogleOneBox-80610361273

Hope that helps.

Derek

 

[tdkkart]

3M Scotchlok terminals are the ones I use.

Jeez, you nearly caused me heart failure, as these are the things that I think about when I hear the word "scotchlock":

http://www.shop3m.com/3m-scotchlok-electrical-idc-560b.html

I wouldn't use these POS things on my worst enemy's project unless I wanted to leave them stranded in the desert somewhere.
I've seen more botched up wiring messes from the use of these things than I care to think about.

For bulk crimp on terminal ends I fall back on my old favorite McMaster Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/

 

[mrpowderkeg]

I get mine from a farm and home store, they carry this brand http://www.noblewire.com/ Made in USA, and they are far better than the cheap junk at the other stores.

 

[MattT]

Jeez, you nearly caused me heart failure, as these are the things that I think about when I hear the word "scotchlock":

http://www.shop3m.com/3m-scotchlok-electrical-idc-560b.html

I wouldn't use these POS things on my worst enemy's project unless I wanted to leave them stranded in the desert somewhere.
I've seen more botched up wiring messes from the use of these things than I care to think about.

They're pretty good for temporary repairs especially when you need to tap a wire. Agree they really shouldn't be used for anything permanent and damn sure shouldn't be used for anything permanent under the hood or on the chassis.

For bulk crimp on terminal ends I fall back on my old favorite McMaster Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/

I use McMaster. Might not be the cheapest but they're easy to deal with and have never sent me junk.

 

[EZH]

I buy mine through Lawson Products. Been using them for over 20 years and are great. I also used their, nuts, bolts and hardware.

Good company to deal with and quality products. For those that don't know,vthere may be a Lawson rep in your area that will come by your shop every couple of months and refill your stock.

Another good company to deal with is Kimbell Midwest. I meet these guys at the truck show a couple years ago. They carry a ton of MRO supplies.

Hope it helps.

Eric

 

[Tarheelgarage]

Jeez, you nearly caused me heart failure, as these are the things that I think about when I hear the word "scotchlock":

http://www.shop3m.com/3m-scotchlok-electrical-idc-560b.html

I wouldn't use these POS things on my worst enemy's project unless I wanted to leave them stranded in the desert somewhere.
I've seen more botched up wiring messes from the use of these things than I care to think about.

For bulk crimp on terminal ends I fall back on my old favorite McMaster Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/

I love them; those have brought me much work to my shop

 

[knobby]

Not a manufacturer but a vast selection digi-key http://www.digikey.com/

 

[toolnut]

As far as quality goes I think it is T&B. I work in the communications field and use connectors daily by the cup full. I don't use blue ,red, or yellow **** connectors. I use the uninsulated connectors and crimp and solder them. This prevents corrosion on the connector. If I have to insulate them I use shrink wrap or a good tape as 3M 33. Just about any bare bones connector will work as long as it is properly installed. Whoever invented the Scotchlok needs a solid kick in the ***! Those things actually cut through the casing and the wire. Flip a trailer over and you see a bunch of Scothloks that will corrode in six months and create a big rewiring job.....

 

[hilld]

Jeez, you nearly caused me heart failure, as these are the things that I think about when I hear the word "scotchlock":

http://www.shop3m.com/3m-scotchlok-electrical-idc-560b.html

I wouldn't use these POS things on my worst enemy's project unless I wanted to leave them stranded in the desert somewhere.
I've seen more botched up wiring messes from the use of these things than I care to think about.

For bulk crimp on terminal ends I fall back on my old favorite McMaster Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/

Technically those splice connectors are not crimp on, but I suppose they use the brandname scotchlok on all of their stuff. I was talking about the crimp on terminals, not the fire waiting to happen connectors. For inline splices, I always solder and heat shrink. Just like somebody else mentioned, they bring them business.

 

[nate379]

I just go to Napa or Shuck's usually.

Del City is good, but the shipping it a pain. Most of the time it's something like I realize I needed a few more connectors to finish a project right there and then, so ordering wouldn't work out.

I have a big bin from Del City that has dividers, really handy. I have red, blue and yellow in a bunch of different configs.

 

[Elroy]

Panduit is the leader but the real issue is the tooling. To have a connection that meets UL the tooling must be qualfied with the terminal

For your boat trailer any of them should do just fine.

 

[Art From De Leon]

I bought a boxed assortment at the Caterpillar dealer, and when the time comes for refills, I get them from the dealer also.

 

[speed bump]

Waytek wire is a good company to deal with for automotive type connectors.

 

[MrMark]

Technically those splice connectors are not crimp on, but I suppose they use the brandname scotchlok on all of their stuff. I was talking about the crimp on terminals, not the fire waiting to happen connectors. For inline splices, I always solder and heat shrink. Just like somebody else mentioned, they bring them business.

If you were doing an inline splice, would you use the **** connectors (or spade connectors or even something else), crimped and soldered, or just solder the wires together? Can you describe your process for making a weathertite inline repair?

Thanks

 

[johnny1290]

When I saw scotchlok I had a heart attack too, I didin't know there was more to it than those crappy firestarters.

for mr mark, when I make an inline splice I solder the wires together (with them sitting on top of each other, not twisted together) I use smaller heat shrink for around an inch on either side of the splice, and use a bigger piece over the spliced area. I use the kind of heatshrink with the glue, I get it from del city.

Now I use that fancy connector grease on all my connections, can't remember what its called. I've never tried it on a splice though.

I've got barrell connectors for splices but they seem more trouble than they're worth and when I solder wires together I know its never coming apart

I use del city for anything that I don't need immediately. I've always gotten the best stuff from them, never beeen disappointed.

locally the good usa stuff is avail at the military surplus bolt stores, 10cents a connector. The american made aircraft? bolts there are unbelieveable. If you've never seen them, you've never seen the best.

the best connectors I can reasonably find local are at home depot, believe it or not. They're thomas and betts or gardner bender, can't remember which, but they're made in taiwan, which is better than the chinese ****.

interestingly enough, I bought a TON of connectors at the pomona swapmeet from a guy whose sister distributes them or something. he sells the overstock or misprinted or whatever stuff they'd normally trash. He says they do all sorts of wierd stuff with the packaging, that stuff made in the US will be labeled made in taiwan, all sorts of different labels on connectors made in the same factory, stuff they'll export to taiwan and reimport, all sorts of stuff my non business mind doesn't get.

I'd be willing to bet that the connector doesn't make half as much difference as the installation. I *despise* that plastic **** insulation. Its so hard to find connectors that don't have it on there I don't even try anymore to find bare ones. I just yank it off. I do the crimp then solder then heatshrink with a dab of electric goo for corrosion prevention.

I'm not an expert but I'm confident it'll be a long long time before those give me any trouble. It's probably over kill for a hotrod and I'm sure plenty of guys just crimp away and have no problems but it works for me. The MAD electrical booklets have drilled it into my brain. CRIMP, SOLDER, then HEATSHRINK! LOL

 

[shamrock12]

Waytek wire is a good company to deal with for automotive type connectors.

I'll second that! Tons of great stuff there.

 

[alex71]

I have about 50,000 crimp terminals in stock right now. They came from an industrial supplier who went out of business. Quality stuff, all of it, priced at half or less compared to anything else you will find. Check out the link in my sig.

 

[ephotrod]

Other than del city where can one find large sums of heat shrink at a good price. What heat shrink is best and does anyone have a chart showing what size for what gauge.
Josh

 

[hilld]

If you were doing an inline splice, would you use the **** connectors (or spade connectors or even something else), crimped and soldered, or just solder the wires together? Can you describe your process for making a weathertite inline repair?

Thanks

There are a couple of ways to approach this. #1 is my preference.

1. Cut the wire, strip about 1" of insulation off on each end and the new wire. Slip over a piece of heat shrink tubing large enough to fit over 2 of the wires. If this splice needs to be waterproof, make sure you use adhesive lined shrink tubing, otherwise non adhesive shrink tubing will do the job.

Take the 2 original wires and point them at each other, with the stripped wires overlapping, now wrap the wires around each other, making sure they stay straight. Add the to be spliced wire to this, then solder the entire set together, make sure to keep the heat away from the heat shrink tubing. Once the solder has cooled, slide the heat shrink tubing over the soldered area, then shrink it using a heating gun, or a micro torch, if using a torch, don't burn the tubing. Done

2. 3M makes **** connectors with heat shrink already attached on it. Here is one example.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...CEK3_nid=GSGX1BV015gsQ526QBR0Z2glGS3QXJW8HGbl

Cut the wires and remove enough insulation to fit in the connector to crimp, but not too much where bare wire would be exposed, do the same for the to be added wire. Crimp the connectors, then apply heat to the **** connector to shrink the tubing.

Hope this is the answer you were looking for, even it was long winded.

Derek

 

[hilld]

Other than del city where can one find large sums of heat shrink at a good price. What heat shrink is best and does anyone have a chart showing what size for what gauge.
Josh

Heat shrink comes in a variety of different ratios, 2:1, 3:1 and even 4:1, comes lined with adhesive and without. The adhesive lined is used for applications where moisture needs to be kept out such as marine applications or where the connections might be exposed to moisture and weather such as on a trailer, etc.

I really like the 3M products as you might have guessed from my other posts, why experiment when you can get a good product everytime. Also if you buy from McMasterCarr, you always get a quality product. I would stay away from Harbor Freight HS tubing.

Here is a good kit to get you started:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...E3E02LECFTDQCEK3_nid=ZHWN9FV9CDbeCXQLTRJTL5gl

I think when I bought mine it was around $50, the price might have changed by now. This is non-adhesive lined, the adhesive lined is quite a bit more expensive, but it is not always needed.

Derek

 

[Solid Lifters]

If you were doing an inline splice, would you use the **** connectors (or spade connectors or even something else), crimped and soldered, or just solder the wires together? Can you describe your process for making a weathertite inline repair?

Thanks

I always solder an in-line splice. I cut both ends off for clean wire. Strip the wire a little longer than normal. I fan out the wires and push them into each other. Twist them together. Add flux paste and melt it. Continue to heat the wire and add solder. Wrap with two layers of high quality, weather proof (high temp and rain) vinyl tape.

A 1,000 times better than any crimp on **** connector with shrink tubing.

 

[MrMark]

Thanks HillD, Johnny and Solid Lifters - those were EXACTLY the answers I was looking for. That is great information. Do you guys have a preferred solder? I have just used an electrical solder that has the rosin core already in it. You all heat the wire and not the solder too, right?

 

[Solid Lifters]

Thanks HillD, Johnny and Solid Lifters - those were EXACTLY the answers I were looking for. That is great information. Do you guys have a preferred solder? I have just used an electrical solder that has the rosin core already in it. You all heat the wire and not the solder too, right?

Yes, heat the connection and apply solder to the heated connection, not the solder iron. I always use flux paste and never rely on rosin core solders.

You use the type of solder for the type of job. I use three kinds. Kester All Purpose Electrical (40% Tin, 60% Lead) for wires, Kester Electronic Silver Solder (62% Tin, 36% Lead, 2% Silver) for silver-coated surface-mounting components and Lead Free Solder for every thing else.

The vinyl electrical tape I use is 3M Scotch Super 88. High and low temps, rain or water can't touch this stuff. Flame retardant, too.

 

[hilld]

As far as solder goes, rosin core electrical solder is what you need to use, they have all sorts of diameter solder, use what you are comfortable with.

DO NOT USE Acid Core solder as that can destroy what you are working on. That stuff is for radiator repairs and the such.

Derek

 

[caseyjw]

I like panduit and t&b for connectors

I use things like these for **** splices

 

[MotoDave]

Anyone have a suggestion for a reference guide, a sort of 'Best Practices for Automotive wiring' ?

 

[mtkst19]

i 3rd waytech.

as for solder wires-- i come from the strip it, non insulated crimp it, solder it, heat shrink it method. even on my car i rewired from front to back every joint got this. pain in the *** and very time consuming but no worries about stuff coming apart.

yet on newer cars, the oem's do not want you to use solder at all. repair kit is usually **** connectors. i think a lot of this has to do w/ can system and resisitance of wires.

 

[hilld]

yet on newer cars, the oem's do not want you to use solder at all. repair kit is usually **** connectors. i think a lot of this has to do w/ can system and resisitance of wires.

I think the reason here is pure cost. As the OEM's usually are paying a warranty claim (at least the first few years), they want it done quickly and don't care that the repair won't last 10 years, when it breaks then, it isn't their problem anymore.

Many of the flat rate warranty repairs pay like ****.

Ask me how I know. At least I got out of the business 15 years ago.

Derek