Who still uses beam-type torque wrenches?

[dwasifar]

Like this:



Somebody must be using them, because it looks like you can easily still buy them, but I'm not sure why you would want to. Anyone?

 

[Jbullfrog]

They are used for engine building. They are more accurate then a clicker wrench. They don't have to be unloaded before storage.

 

[vwpieces]

Used one earlier this summer on an engine rebuild.

 

[KnurledNut]

Another advantage is they can be re-calibrated on a whim.
They are also very inexpensive and accurate.

 

[Swazeytrain]

I borrowed one from a coworker to measure rolling torque on a differential, other than that I’ve not used one for anything else.

 

[Ricky Joe]

I use them, and own eight if I’m not forget any, from 30 inch pound to 300 foot pound, counting my Williams . I have 5 of the Williams (one duplicate), three Indestro/Duro, one Apco, one S-K. So that is ten. I also have two split beam, one micrometer, and two dial. Pictures tomorrow!

 

[Compressed]

Last time i used my THORSEN was to torque my AR scope mounts,
use to use it a lot on my Ol' 71' Chevy truck...

https://imgur.com/UHLK4eM

https://imgur.com/tCYaJTr

 

[DemoFly]

I suspect the folks from the other torque wrench thread will come in and say these are unusable because they don't have a high tooth count ratcheting head.

 

[Tools4Me]

I have 6-7. The smallest goes up to I think 60 in oz, and the largest goes up to 150 ft lbs. Most have permanent +/-2% accuracy. I do use them as is (or along with a ratchet adapter), but I mainly have them for periodically checking the calibration of my clicker torque wrenches. Without being able to do that myself, I would have a lot less trust in my clicker torque wrenches.

I consider my beam torque wrenches to be as important as micrometer reference rod gauges are for my digital vernier calipers and micrometers. In my mind, there's not much point in having any precision instrument if you can't quickly check it for accuracy or proper calibration on the spot.

 

[nadogail]

I have a 3/8" drive one I purchased from Montgomery Wards in Oakland, CA in the late 60's. It is my only torque wrench; I believe it was made by Sturdevant.

 

[landrover bodger]

i use one on some land rover timing belts to set the belt tension

 

[Formula]

Always use mine for setting up pinion bearing torque.

 

[lardy1]

I have an Indestro and an SK that I use from time to time. Clickers are OK but if I want to be confident in the accuracy I break out the beams. Kinda like corded tools. They are paid for and they get the job done to my satisfaction.

 

[demarpaint]

I have two that I use from time to time. They're very accurate for engine rebuilding work.

 

[HenryAZ]

Always use mine for setting up pinion bearing torque.

I have a Park in-lb beam that I use for checking pinion bearing preload. Unfortunately, Park no longer offers it.

 

[seber]

I use mine to check the split beams on occasion. So far so good after a few decades.

 

[unslow1]

I also use mine for checking the clickers. I'm supposed to help a friend assemble a differential this weekend and we will use one to test it.

 

[UglyViking]

Are these beam styles more accurate than a quality digital torque wrench?

 

[lilredex]

Used those in an engine rebuilding facility I worked at, many moons ago. When standards coming through were Chrysler flatheads, Gm's with Babbitt rods and Ford flathead V-8's. Don't think clickers were around yet.

 

[joe_padavano]

I find that every one of these "who still uses..." threads are started by people who don't do enough of their own work to need them.

 

[VolvoRyan]

I still have my Craftsman, carefully stored in the tool box. These are hugely useful.

Unfortunately, every Tom, ****, and Harry wanted clickers.... then digitals.... so all the DIY brands obliged. Now it's hard to find the "old" beam-types.

-Ryan

 

[javyLSU]

I use mine to check the split beams on occasion. So far so good after a few decades.

I have 6-7. The smallest goes up to I think 60 in oz, and the largest goes up to 150 ft lbs. Most have permanent +/-2% accuracy. I do use them as is (or along with a ratchet adapter), but I mainly have them for periodically checking the calibration of my clicker torque wrenches. Without being able to do that myself, I would have a lot less trust in my clicker torque wrenches…

I’m with these guys. I have one, and that’s exactly what I use it for.

 

[gtae07]

I have one and we used it torquing various bolts and nuts on my engine.

 

[driftpin]

I have a Craftsman I bought new, probably > 40 years-old, and still have its box. I also have a Plomb. The Plomb was bought used, I suspect it's older than the Sears. Model 5403 Plomb, made in USA. A 'cool' factor is the 1/2" drive on both sides of the head, so you can have a good line of sight in using it where otherwise the tool would be upside-down. That's useful, versatile, and clever.

 

[Tuc04]

Used one recently on BMW cam sprockets. Left hand thread.

 

[dwasifar]

,

 

[finn]

Still have the Craftsman I bought in 1970 or so.

Somewhere along the line, a second one showed up, probably as part of a lot buy at an auction.

I don’t use it much anymore, mostly because of parallax issues. Doesn’t work well if you don’t have a clear line of sight. If you do have a clear sight line, it’s more accurate than a clicker. That fact is lost on most people.

 

[Mr. Tool]

Not always, but when the time calls for their use, I definitely still do use the beam type torque wrench.

I have two different Craftman sizes that I had purchased from Sears years ago that I have stored in their original containers that they came in.

Also use the click type torque wrenches, also when called for.

So yes definitely use both types and both good to use.

 

[Meursault74]

I have one. Only Torque wrench I have. Use it when installing cartridge bottom brackets and crank arms for bicycles.

I let a coworker borrow it. I think he said he used to for some spark plugs with a crush washer or something like that. He had never changed that type out and wanted to go by the torque spec instead of feel.

I don't use it enough to warrant a digital/click type. At the time I purchased the beam type many years ago, the digital/click type were much more expensive. I don't know what the difference is now as I'm not in the market for one.

 

[LXCam]

The only one I have left is dedicated for pinion preload like a few others have posted.

 

[Mgdoug3]

I have a Thorsen just like the one posted earlier in the thread. I use it mostly to check my other torque wrenches. It's handy to have and doesn't get out of calibration.

 

[KnurledNut]

I have a Craftsman I bought new, probably > 40 years-old, and still have its box. I also have a Plomb. The Plomb was bought used, I suspect it's older than the Sears. Model 5403 Plomb, made in USA. A 'cool' factor is the 1/2" drive on both sides of the head, so you can have a good line of sight in using it where otherwise the tool would be upside-down. That's useful, versatile, and clever.

The Plomb was made by Sturtevant. That is their logo on the back, but their name was left off.

 

[dnschmidt]

The only place I feel they have value is in measuring bearing pre-load such as on a differential. In that respect they are a poor man's version of a dial torque wrench which are quite expensive. Other than that a clicker or digital are superior.

 

[MarineScott]

Always use mine for setting up pinion bearing torque.

Me too and bearing pre-load

 

[Orangina]

Old 70s Stahlwille 72/12 and Hazet 2590 torsion bar torque wrenches

 

[dwasifar]

I find that every one of these "who still uses..." threads are started by people who don't do enough of their own work to need them.

Has it occurred to you that not everyone needs every kind of work?

The common thread here is that the beam wrenches are better for engine rebuilds than the clickers. That's fine, I didn't know that, and it's the kind of information I wanted when I asked. The fact is that I haven't needed to tear down a car engine for 30+ years, because car engines last longer now and I don't keep cars that long. And if I'm reassembling a small engine like a chainsaw or a mower, then the clicker (or just doing it by feel) is fine.

 

[General Geoff]

I use beam torque wrenches exclusively. Why?

No moving parts, no springs to wear out, simple visual check of indicator pointing to zero at rest is the only calibration required. Extremely accurate, supremely reliable. What's not to like? Even better is that they save me time by not having to set anything before or after use like with a clicker or split beam.

Add a ratcheting adapter and it can easily be used to replace a ratcheting clicker in most situations.

The only downside I can see is that you have to be aware of parallax error and make sure you observe the indicator while torquing, directly perpendicular to the face of the scale, to achieve accurate measurement. That and there's no audible indication of achieving a desired torque value. But if you're in a situation where you can squarely observe the scale, they are superior to clickers and split beams IMO

Pic of mine with ratchet adapters:

 

[Compressed]

I'm still asking myself why was everything yesteryear made better (maybe they're not SMART tools or WI-FI or Blue Toothed to death). Grandma and Garndpa had the same washer and dryer for dang near 40years i've gone through 3 sets in 25 yrs. and there's more of things i could post (is there a thread about this)?
@nadogail
Miss Monkeywards, still have the same ol' artificial Christmas tree from them and a very old wood burning stove.

 

[FMB4]

I have 3 clickers and 2 beams. My 1/2" drive clicker sees regular use on lug nuts while the beams are used for torquing oil drain/fill plugs and the rare intake manifold and head gasket replacement jobs.

 

[Balor]

I have a small inch beam that I use for rotational torque on H-D springer rocker bearings