Who's got lathes?

[OneOfEm]

If you have a metal lathe and milling machine of sufficient size along with tooling for each, you can literally make almost anything given the time and skill (sadly I am lacking in both of these, but working on it ).

See edit above.

 

[RGausman]

We'll have read all 37 pages and did not see many old Clausing lathe's.

I have a mid 1940's Clausing mk 3 standard lathe which has been in our family since the 1960's. My dad purchase this lathe for about $350 and came with only basic tooling. My dad put many hours on this lathe in the evening and weekends making new parts and reconditioning used parts for heavy construction equipment.

I started using the lathe in 80's making tools and reconditioning old parts.

Over the years have been gathering parts to convert to a quick change gear box.
Have been using a clone AXA QCTP a few years now. Have two iGage scales to make a DRO and would like to replace the original motor with a 3 phase motor and VFD.

Thanks out to all the GJ members for your posting.

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[epiphone1423]

1902 pratt and whitney toolmakers lathe.
just begun the re assembly process.

 

[John in OH]

1902 pratt and whitney toolmakers lathe.
just begun the re assembly process.

So, where are the pics?????

 

[RBarnes]

What do you guys recommend putting on the gears that are in the quick change gear case on my lathe (Logan 11")? Cannot really oil well once installed so was wondering if a light film of grease or heavy weight oil?

 

[larry_g]

What do you guys recommend putting on the gears that are in the quick change gear case on my lathe (Logan 11")? Cannot really oil well once installed so was wondering if a light film of grease or heavy weight oil?

Open gear lube or chain lube if you have it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R8EI08/?tag=atomicindus08-20 Some thinglike this. I've not used this particular product but it came up on a quick search. There are many others in this class of lubricants.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[matt_i]

That open gear lube works very well but keep in mind its super thin as-sprayed and then later the carrier solvent evaporates....

...I found this out some years back by using it on the end gear train of a Clausing 5914 and then running the machine abit to distribute lube....I had a black stripe on the drywall of the garage forevermore.

So either protect the spray off the gears or wait a little longer for it to "dry" out a little bit.

 

[DocsMachine]

Here's a project I've been working on for a while: A 1956 Logan 11" lathe, converted to CNC:

I'm only just now getting the final details sorted out, but it's very close to fully functional now.

For those of you that are interested in the nuts and bolts behind the scenes, I have a write up on my site, that's still a couple recent updates behind, but I'm working on it.

For a quick overview, it started out as an 11" Logan turret lathe. It's running a 2HP 3600 RPM 3-phase motor powered by a WEG VFD, in turn operated by the CNC controller. I'm using a Centroid "Acorn" board, up in the grey cabinet at the top left (a repurposed key locker ) and their CNC12 software, running on the 24" Dell all-in-one touchscreen Win10 PC barely seen at the far lower left.

The device hanging up at the high right is Centroid's wireless MPG, or manual pulse generator. It's basically a remote control for the lathe, allowing you to move the tool manually with the dial, and providing a handheld selection of the important buttons, like cycle start, E-stop, spindle on, jog, and so on.

It's using Automation Technologies "hybrid" closed-loop steppers, both connected tho their ballscrews with 3:1 reduction belting. The 'saddle' of the carriage assembly is original to the machine, but I custom built the rest- apron, cross-slide, belt drive housing, etc.) from scratch.

I set it up with an AXA QC toolpost to get started, which I mounted on a riser block cut so that it's at the exact right height so I can also use the tools, if necessary, on my other, manual lathe, without having to reset tool heights. Eventually I hope to have gang tooling of some sort, in order to do short-run production without having to constantly swap tools.

The big red button at the left is the E-stop- I'll be putting a second one at the right-hand side shortly- and it's glowing as a "power on" indicator for the controller, as none of its indicators are visible when the case is closed.

The controller uses a quadrature encoder so it's capable of not only threading, but multi-start threading, as well as rigid tapping.

I'm looking forward to finally being able to use it!

Doc.

 

[4 FN 27]

Walked into the Shop the other night and forgot to turn the Light off on the Lathe...made for a cool pic...

 

[Asport]

Here's a project I've been working on for a while: A 1956 Logan 11" lathe, converted to CNC:

I'm only just now getting the final details sorted out, but it's very close to fully functional now.

Doc.

Way cool Doc! Impressive!

 

[RBarnes]

Anyone have a lower double head stock gear for an 11" Logan lathe part number LA 1006. Have one missing a tooth and would like to replace.

 

[DocsMachine]

You've got two options: Logan is actually still in business at lathes.com, and has a limited number of spares available. Beware of sticker shock, prices are steep.

The other option is eBay- it seems like somebody's always parting out an old worn-out Logan, and you can find just about every part you need, fairly inexpensively.

Doc.

 

[matt_i]

Anyone have a lower double head stock gear for an 11" Logan lathe part number LA 1006. Have one missing a tooth and would like to replace.

There is the option to repair it...in essence bronze-braze the missing tooth's gap and use a file to cut the tooth profile back to good-enough. It obviously isn't as strong as new but a large tooth-count gear shares the load well between teeth. You'll want to roll the gears by hand (roll over the chuck by hand as all of the power derives from the spindle) once you're done to make sure there's not a clash that could be damaging...iow don't just file it and run it for the very first time under power....

If you wanted to go the route of making a new set, you can always go the Boston Gear route (assuming its a cataloged size of standard DP and pressure angle and tooth count, thickness, etc) and machine an adapter to tie the two gears together concentrically so they share load. Find the Boston Gear part numbers and buy from Motion Industries or other power transmission supply house.

@Doc, nice conversion, I'm curious how you determine the X, Z offset for the tool point? Do you have a jig and use dial indicators from a known position or do you have a more advanced electronic "setter". Also curious if its a conversational control or straight up G-code.

 

[ez-duzit]

Bought my 12" x 35" Logan 2557V along with an Index Super 55 mill for $2k. Photos show them as they were being delivered and then in place in my shop after I cleaned them up.


steps to become a forensic anthropologist

 

[DocsMachine]

@Doc, nice conversion, I'm curious how you determine the X, Z offset for the tool point? Do you have a jig and use dial indicators from a known position or do you have a more advanced electronic "setter". Also curious if its a conversational control or straight up G-code.

-It uses an "Acorn" controller board from Centroid, a manufacturer of professional-level CNC machines and software. They basically saw the underserved DIY market and figured out an inexpensive way to port their pro-level software over to something that can be mounted to anything from desktop minimills to full-on Bridgeport BOSS retrofits.

I'd started the conversion expecting to use Mach 3, like everybody else, but knowing that was a poor choice at best mainly due to the fact that M3 is not great at threading, and basically can't do multi-start, which I need to be able to do fairly regularly.

I was about halfway through when the Acorn was released, and I was one of the first ones to dump M3 and switch over. Built an entire new controller enclosure for it.

And one of the reasons I did was that Centroid's software has some pretty straightforward conversational programming- keeping in mind that I am NOT anything even remotely close to a CNC expert. I've been a manual machinist for 20+ years, but this is the first CNC machine I've ever really used, so when I say the conversational programming is pretty "straightforward"... if I can understand it, anyone can.

As for tool setting, that's easy. You set up Tool #1 in the 'library' as your "reference" tool. You cut a face or turn a diameter on a chunk of stock, measure, and enter that info into the tables.

Then you touch off those faces with the subsequent tools, and the system determines how much offset they are from the reference tool.

It's a pretty standard method, from what I understand, but the controller can also accept tool sensors and touch-off pads and the like, and I think has built-in self-check options.

Doc.

 

[RBarnes]

Was wondering if anyone had a Logan brand 4 jaw chuck for an 11" Logan lathe they would sell?
I believe the part number is 1064/AC117. It would be a 6" with the 2 1/4" 8 thread spindle.

 

[DarrenF]

I bough this lathe a while back, mostly because it came with a pile of tooling, it appears to be in good shape, mechanically at least, and the price was right. I was told that it was a south bend, but that does not appear to be true. There are no tags or numbers that i could find. any help would be greatly appreciated. I have spent hours searching on the net without success.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7886/40545639373_809cae5895_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7838/47511603601_079fab146e_c.jpg

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7901/47458769872_c6bd5c7aa5_b.jpg

 

[OccupantRJ]

Have you searched using google images to find a pic of a similar one? It appears to have an L style spindle nose due to the spanner nut holding the chuck on. L0, L00, etc.

 

[DarrenF]

Have you searched using google images to find a pic of a similar one? It appears to have an L style spindle nose due to the scanner nut holding the chuck on. L0, L00, etc.

i've been looking and looking, but have found nothing. It looks similar to some of the old colchester lathes, but i cant find a match

 

[930dreamer]

You can start at the top of this page and see if you can find a match. I'd think the left end cover would be a good clue?

http://www.lathes.co.uk/

 

[DarrenF]

You start at the top of this page and see if you can find a match. I'd think the left end cover would be a good clue?

http://www.lathes.co.uk/

I have been all over that site, still have some more to go through. I really wanna know and its driving me nuts

 

[930dreamer]

I've seen that style cover on something else but can't remember on what?

 

[Randall3rd]

Picked up my first lathe recently. 1960’s ish South Bend 9A.
Could use a good cleaning all over, but doesn’t look like it’s ever been repainted or beat up too much. But then again, I’m new to this so who knows? It came with a bunch of extras that will keep me busy for a long time.

...now I’m definitely out of space in my workshop.

 

[tombell572]

This is my 10" Sheldon that I've had for about 30 years. Tooling includes three 4-jaw chucks, one 3-jaw, faceplate, dog driver, full 4C collet set by 32nds, steady and follower rests, and a taper attachment. It was built in 1940 and spent its working life at Bell Labs in NJ where it apparently received great care. Now in semi-retirement,it make parts for my British motorcycle projects, antique fire apparatus and equipment under restoration at the Nassau County Fire Museum and stuff for my friends.

IMG_1505.jpg

Tom B.

 

[Dmoen]

Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[bctexas]

Picked up my first lathe recently. 1960’s ish South Bend 9A.

Nice find Randall! At the far end of the ways at the front you will find the serial number. You can send it to Grizzly (they have all of South Bend's records) with $25, and they will send you a pdf of the original "build sheet" and sales card. Very interesting - found out my old 9inch was sold in November of 1935 to a engineering professor at the University of Texas at Arlington.

Steve Wells keeps a database of SB serial numbers, along with lots of other interesting info:

http://www.wswells.com/

The database:

http://www.wswells.com/sn/sn_db.htm

Mine is 61781. There are links to the serial number card and a picture.

If yours is not on the list yet, please drop him a message with the serial number and whatever other info you have.

 

[Randall3rd]

Great Info. Thanks! Serial is 51050, will have to add to the list.

 

[bctexas]

Great Info. Thanks! Serial is 51050, will have to add to the list.

You are most welcome. Wow, 51050 should be from 1932. Amazing how these old workhorses can stick around all these years and still be useful. Mine is pretty badly worn, but with a little patience can still turn out usable parts. Its limitations are likely more due to the operator than the machine....

Just realized I neglected to include:

https://groups.io/g/SouthBendLathe

Pretty active and lots of people who can answer questions.

 

[930dreamer]

I have been all over that site, still have some more to go through. I really wanna know and its driving me nuts

Someone on the Practical Machinist stated "it looks European".

 

[DarrenF]

Someone on the Practical Machinist stated "it looks European".

I saw that. I'm still searching through the lathes.uk.co site. Hopefully i can find out what it is. Thanks for posting it there. I also did but it took a few days to be approved

 

[Spook001]

I saw that. I'm still searching through the lathes.uk.co site. Hopefully i can find out what it is. Thanks for posting it there. I also did but it took a few days to be approved

It looks like a Hendey lathe. I could be wrong, but they were built in England.

 

[PaulWestski]

Here's my Standard Modern 13 x 34 lathe getting ready to go in the mini garage for clean up.

I picked it up at the Navy ship yard auction. They were stored outside so it took considerable clean up to remove the surface rust. But it was well worth it, these sell for 23k new.

I made a large electrolysis tank and removed the rust off of anything that could be removed from the lathe.

It came with a three jaw chuck, a four jaw chuck, 12" face plate quick change tool post, taper attachment, steady rest, follow rest.

Its a really nice lathe with plenty of power 2 HP three phase, and it will thread either standard or metric.
It also had a VFD installed from the factory so it will run on single phase power. two speed and reverse at the flip of a switch.

Standard Modern lathes are made in Canada not Taiwan or China.

I paid about a fourth of what a Grizzly comparable lathe would of cost me.

I also picked up a Bridgeport Mill clone (Taiwanese) at the same time.
I'll save that for another post.

 

[John in OH]

It looks like a Hendey lathe. I could be wrong, but they were built in England.

No, Hendey lathes were built in Torrington, Connecticut ... at least every one I ever saw.

 

[Spook001]

No, Hendey lathes were built in Torrington, Connecticut ... at least every one I ever saw.

I stand corrected. I found a article on Hendey lathes on a U.K. site. My dad had 3 of them back in the 60’s .

 

[DarrenF]

my lathe appears to be a Willson, but i dont know the model yet

 

[larry_g]

Here's my Standard Modern 13 x 34 lathe getting ready to go in the mini garage for clean up.

I picked it up at the Navy ship yard auction. They were stored outside so it took considerable clean up to remove the surface rust. But it was well worth it, these sell for 23k new.

I made a large electrolysis tank and removed the rust off of anything that could be removed from the lathe.

It came with a three jaw chuck, a four jaw chuck, 12" face plate quick change tool post, taper attachment, steady rest, follow rest.

Its a really nice lathe with plenty of power 2 HP three phase, and it will thread either standard or metric.
It also had a VFD installed from the factory so it will run on single phase power. two speed and reverse at the flip of a switch.

Standard Modern lathes are made in Canada not Taiwan or China.

I paid about a fourth of what a Grizzly comparable lathe would of cost me.

I also picked up a Bridgeport Mill clone (Taiwanese) at the same time.
I'll save that for another post.

You've got yourself a real lathe there. I'm linking you to an instruction sheet for the mounting feet on that machine. Not many know what they are and how to adjust them. If done wrong you can ruin them. You can also ruin them trying to slide the machine while on the mounts.

http://www.nowakproducts.com/davenport/PAGES/NP-M36.html

Basically the foot grows in height when the screw is turned into the yellow cap. But keep in mind that they only grow a limited amount before the elastomer rips and the foot is damaged. If you need more height then add a spacer between the machine and the foot.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[John in OH]

Some years ago before I retired, I used to occasionally attend local machine shop going-out-of-business auctions just to get a look at neat machine tools.

One summer, over lunch, I went to a tool and die shop auction about 1/2 mile from work. Auctions are fun as one never knows what might be there, or how much some lunatic might pay for a piece of junk!! Anyway, as is the way of life at auctions, some lots stir little or no interest, and a “no interest” item at this auction was an old Model 200 Logan lathe, 10 in. swing, 24 in. btc. It was ugly as sin … dirty, grungy, some rust … and the spindle bearings were rough, so, I figured it was probably a boat anchor. No tooling except the 3-jaw chuck. However, a quick visual inspection found minimal wear on the bed ways and lead screw.



I wasn’t really interested as I already had a lathe, but figured I’d bid once or twice “just for fun”… usually a dumb thing to do! Well, I took the lathe home with me for $125!

It’s been sitting in a storage shed in Ohio for about 10 years. This past fall I decided to drag it with me to Virginia and do a refurbishment as a winter project. As a general rule, I try to mount as many of my shop tools, cabinets, and benches on casters as possible. The base frame for this lathe was build using 2x6 lumber, steel casters, and hockey-puck levelers.



I think it turned out pretty good. It will be fun to get it aligned and try it on a few projects.

 

[mgermca]

Some years ago before I retired, I used to occasionally attend local machine shop going-out-of-business auctions just to get a look at neat machine tools.

One summer, over lunch, I went to a tool and die shop auction about 1/2 mile from work. Auctions are fun as one never knows what might be there, or how much some lunatic might pay for a piece of junk!! Anyway, as is the way of life at auctions, some lots stir little or no interest, and a “no interest” item at this auction was an old Model 200 Logan lathe, 10 in. swing, 24 in. btc. It was ugly as sin … dirty, grungy, some rust … and the spindle bearings were rough, so, I figured it was probably a boat anchor. No tooling except the 3-jaw chuck. However, a quick visual inspection found minimal wear on the bed ways and lead screw.



I wasn’t really interested as I already had a lathe, but figured I’d bid once or twice “just for fun”… usually a dumb thing to do! Well, I took the lathe home with me for $125!

It’s been sitting in a storage shed in Ohio for about 10 years. This past fall I decided to drag it with me to Virginia and do a refurbishment as a winter project. As a general rule, I try to mount as many of my shop tools, cabinets, and benches on casters as possible. The base frame for this lathe was build using 2x6 lumber, steel casters, and hockey-puck levelers.


I think it turned out pretty good. It will be fun to get it aligned and try it on a few projects.

Good score, well done!

 

[Svt_ivan]

Recently picked up my first lathe. It's a Craftsman/Atlas 618 in great condition. Looking forward to finish setting it up and start learning on this little machine!

 

[RBarnes]

Amazing how these old workhorses can stick around all these years and still be useful

I grew up in a time, long before the throw away generation, where we bought the best high quality American made stuff we could afford and fixed it when it broke. I so miss that concept that was once part of American culture.