Who's removed a bolt with locktite red/blue?

[johnny1290]

I'm asking cuz I need to remove some flywheel bolts, one in the car and one on a stand, and I'm wondering what I'm in for

I *hope* I can at least reach the ones in the car with an air ratchet to make my life a bit easier. Think that'll be enough (around 40 or 45 ft lbs) to remove a bolt with the blue on it?

Can I heat a bolt with red on it up enough with just a propane torch? I figure if worse comes to worse I can rotate the flywheel to the bottom and heat it up.

Does anybody know the correct procedure if there is one? Do you just heat it and then try to remove, or heat and let it cool, or ?

Anybody with a funny locktite removal story?!? hehe

EDIT: Just looked it up, 65 foot pounds for the flywheel. Guess I'll be using a cheater pipe!!!

 

[wrenchr]

Cheater bar and go very easy!!!

 

[Jared]

i would just hit em with an impact, they should be tighter than 45 foot pounds.

 

[Merkava_4]

From what I've heard, you only have to heat up the red Locktite.

 

[joenero]

Eh, I've never not been able to remove a bolt with either my 1/2'' IR impact or a 24'' breaker bar and a 2 foot piece of tubing.

 

[Deafautotech]

almost all new jeep SUV or Dodge trucks use blue locktite.... i had no problem to remove but my impact wrench had to work little harder than normal because locktite make it more tighter... i am never heat it up so i can break loose it... if impact wrenches wont do it then i get my snap on 24in breaker bar or snap on 24in ratchet (for tight area) to break it loose!!! i had no problems but take a time to do it....

 

[83diesel]

With that small of a bolt/nut with either loctite on them they should come loose with the mentioned tools. With bigger bolts/nuts used on heavy equipment and semis we always use a propane torch to melt the loctite and the fastener will then be easy to remove. I would choose an impact wrench over an air ratchet if there is room, especially since you think there is loctite on them. Good way to bust your knuckles.

 

[wrenchr]

almost all new jeep SUV or Dodge trucks use blue locktite.... i had no problem to remove but my impact wrench had to work little harder than normal because locktite make it more tighter... i am never heat it up so i can break loose it... if impact wrenches wont do it then i get my snap on 24in breaker bar or snap on 24in ratchet (for tight area) to break it loose!!! i had no problems but take a time to do it....

Yah time is a very good point That is why I like a cheater bar or long 1/2 ratchet.

 

[Deafautotech]

Yah time is a very good point That is why I like a cheater bar or long 1/2 ratchet.

thank you!

i am only tech who own snap on 24in long nad flex ratchet in my shop and i had too many long handle ratchets..... But good thing is they dont break and got my job done!!!!

i can see other tech who tried to beat the book and got in trouble with something that result to cost his job for more than 1 or 2 hours of tech's time...

most of them told me to ignore the labor rate as just do my way and i can learn to find a way to speed up... it is take time.... even 30 yrs technician will beat me in job but he will not do the heavy job because he is tired of it for 30 years... he are glad to teach and help me that way so i can do better and better...

 

[wrenchr]

Yah I have a 15" Matco flex head.

 

[Deafautotech]

Yah I have a 15" Matco flex head.

i still own two 18in craftsman flex ratchets but still use it at home but at my work that i am rather use snap on beefy 24in flex ratchet!!!

 

[ephotrod]

I suggest that you hit the bolts one time with a hammer. THen lock up the flywheel or motor so that all the energy is going into the bolt. I use a plain jane breaker bar and shallow impact socket. This method has always worked for me and is simple. Leverage is your friend and work with gravity dont fight it.
Josh

 

[Charlie's68]

you almost have to use a torch and heat the 14mm allen head bolts up on a duramax flywheel to get them off.....my ti2135 wouldnt budge them without it....

 

[oxycodone]

Anybody with a funny locktite removal story?!?

Lotsa bolts on modern Japanese motorcycles are factory installed with locktite. Rotor bolts on Kaws always have red locktite on the threads. A 18" breaker with a hex socket makes quick work of them.

What ***** is factory bar-end weights... They have red locktite on the threads... of a phillips head screw! You pretty much have to heat those and then take a manual impact to them... if not, be prepared to replace them. Ask me how I know.

 

[TNToy]

Heating with a propane torch is fine. It doesn't need much more than 200-300 degress to release red. I wouldn't use more heat even if a torch was handy: A flywheel is too easy to warp.

A good 1/2" impact and a MAPP or 'pane torch is what I'd use at work. If all you have is a breaker bar, that'll work too.

 

[Vicegrip]

Red = HEAT! Heat to 300 and Red goes soft.

Had a guy that had some broken head bolts on a Porsche engine case. He brought the case to me to remove the busted stubs thinking I was going to use some fancy drill rig to get the stubs out. He also wanted me to remove the rest of the bolts for replacement. He had beaver chewed up a couple tryng to crank them out before giving up.

I took my plumbers air torch to the case and heated each stud root and turned each one out with a socket on a pair of jam nuts on the good ones and some vicegrips on the stumps. No muss no fuss. The studs are only hand tight but locked with RED.

 

[Major Ramifications]

thank you!

i am only tech who own snap on 24in long nad flex ratchet in my shop and i had too many long handle ratchets..... But good thing is they dont break and got my job done!!!!

i can see other tech who tried to beat the book and got in trouble with something that result to cost his job for more than 1 or 2 hours of tech's time...

most of them told me to ignore the labor rate as just do my way and i can learn to find a way to speed up... it is take time.... even 30 yrs technician will beat me in job but he will not do the heavy job because he is tired of it for 30 years... he are glad to teach and help me that way so i can do better and better...

The late border patrol officer and exhibition shooter Bill Jordan used to say, "speed is fine, but accuracy is final".

 

[T56 Impala]

Red and blue removed here. I use the stuff religiously on everything I work one. I have never had to heat or even use an handle extention to break them loose. A standard 1/2 ratchet with steady pressure has always worked for me.

It has been a few years since I need to remove a bolt with it on there though. When I reassembled my 95 Impala, I used it on everything. I had to pull the transmission several times to replace the clutch and PP and never had a problem.

 

[johnny1290]

Thanks for all your help!!!

I went out and got some blue for when I reinstall the flywheel.

I tried using a 1/2" and cheater pipe on the bolts, but I just couldn't get the engine locked up tight enough to remove them, so I gorilla'd the transmission back far enough to slip the torque converter off and use the impact on the bolts.

Worked like a charm! on both the flywheels! I was thinking those were never coming off, but it turned out to be no big deal. I guess I just haven't gotten used to having an impact to do the heavy lifting.

I am really seeing a use for flexhead and long handle ratchets now!

Thanks again all!