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Why a Radial Arm saw

dirttracker18

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Having worked as a mechanic, working with wood was foreign to me until I got into my later 20's

I have since taken on most of the renos in my own home, built my garage and am just finishing extensive renos (read gutted the place) on a house for a family member.

So my knowledge is building and I am becoming more adept and acquiring tools.

So what the main purpose of a radial arm saw? I see many other options that would work but I figure there is likely a reason for such a saw.

So whats the primary purpose? Why have one instead of say a sliding compond mitre saw?
 
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thebeekeeper1

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I had one for a good while before adding a CMS, so I got used to using it. Many (probably most) consider them to be an obsolete relic that is inherently dangerous.

I like them due to their versatility. I can raise the blade and make dado cuts by making multiple passes while sliding my board along. Also, you can rip on them, though it is a PITA to do so.

A good table saw with a CMS will do anything a RA will do--no doubt about that. One positive is they are really cheap, and often free. :)
 

Midnight_America

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Radial saws are great at cross-cutting or making angle cuts. A table saw can cross-cut, but it can also rip large pieces of wood, something a radial cannot do. It can also dad0, something else a radial reallt wasn't designed for. A well equipped wood working shop must have both saws. If you can only afford one of the two, get a table saw and use a handheld circular saw as a substitute for the radial.
 

dandan111

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My first saw was a free radial arm. Kind of old school a new sliding miter box is much more compact. The radial arm was kind of nice for ripping,just adjust the head sideways and be real carefull when your hands are close to the blade. The saw pulls the board so you have to be ready to let go if it takes off!
I have a table saw,free one that I never used much. My 10inch miter box and skill saw are what I use any more. If I ever start wood working again I will get out that old table saw.
 

SMKS

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What's so dangerous about RA saws?

I have a line on a free one, an older Craftsman. I've done a little research and heard a couple people says they're dangerous, but I don't think I've ready why.
 

dandan111

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I didn't think it was any more dangerous than a table saw. My motor went out on the old one I had. Black and decker I think it was.
 

DekeT

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Having worked as a mechanic, working with wood was foreign to me until I got into my later 20's

I have since taken on most of the renos in my own home, built my garage and am just finishing extensive renos (read gutted the place) on a house for a family member.

So my knowledge is building and I am becoming more adept and acquiring tools.

So what the main purpose of a radial arm saw? I see many other options that would work but I figure there is likely a reason for such a saw.

So whats the primary purpose? Why have one instead of say a sliding compond mitre saw?

Radial arm saws are dinosaurs. As you have discovered there are many other more accurate and useful alternatives.
 

Aberdale

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Radial arm saws were really the tool to have for cross cuts of long boards before the powered miter saws came out. Now they are considered a bit bulky, heavy, and outdated, but still a usable tool if you have the space for it.

I still have one, but rarely use it now that I have a power miter saw. The power miter saw is much more portable, takes up less space, is more accurate for angle cuts, and I believe it's safer.

From my experience, the only thing unsafe about a radial arm saw is using a dull blade. If the blade is dull, it will tend to "get traction" as it is moving through the material and can be difficult to control. Just use a sharp blade and a radial arm is a usable tool.
 

DanarchyCustoms

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Every scene shop that I have worked at has had atleast one and was used daily. They were always fixed at 90' and were great for cutting skinny as well as very wide boards. The largest saw I have used had a 25" capacity. It's great for fast multiple cuts, and if you have a stop set up in place you really can bang out alot of fast, accurate cuts. Perfect for a fast production shop.
 

signcrafter

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Radial arm saws, at least the craftsman ones that are always for sale on craigslist, were intended for the homeowner to be a one saw does it all type thing. Back then power tools were luxury so a saw that could cross cut and rip appealed to the homeowner. That's why there are so many of them for sale now a days.

They still have thier place but a miter saw pretty much replaced them for the average homeowner because it's smaller and easier to use. I don't like to rip boards on a radial arm saw, a table saw is a lot better and safer for ripping. RAS do make good cross cut saws. Even back in high school we had one that we used for rough cutting boards to length. Then jointed and planned them and ripped them and then cut to finish length on a miter saw. Also the RAS can do dados like metnioned above, easier than a table saw.

If you have the extra room in your garage pick up a used craftsman and give it a tune up and build it into a bench. Also most of the craftsmans had a recall on them so you can get a new top for free. Some they don't make a recall kit for and if you send in your motor they send you a check for 50 or 100 bucks I think. But most of the saws you will get a new table and gaurd for it for free. If I had the room I would build a long 20 ft or so bench with a built in fence and build my RAS and sliding compound miter saw into this bench so they both can be used.

Also the RAS makes a great saw for cutting siding and soffit material with the right blade.
 

Lightfoot

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Radial arm saws are dinosaurs. As you have discovered there are many other more accurate and useful alternatives.

agreed. sold mine a 7-8 years ago, before the bottom dropped out on them. Haven't needed it even once since.
 

Big-Foot

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X99 on the RAS being a wood launcher.. Was ripping a long board that had a very hard knot in it that was going at a 45 degree angle. I thought my rip was clearing the knot, but instead it dug into the heart of it. The saw (Dewalt) was a 10" as I recall. It grabbed the work when it hit that knot and shot it a good 15 feet where the board hit a screen door and shattered the glass and bent the aluminum frame.

In all fairness, I did not have a death grip on the work and the blade was not fresh, although I wouldn't have called it dull either..
 

IndyGarage

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The sliding miter saw is the modern version of an RA saw, but can more easily be set on angles and bevels, and is portable.

I'm not sure you can even buy a new radial arm saw anymore.

They typically required a big fixed space to use them and they lacked much in the way of a blade guard.

Personally I wouldn't bother with one these days.
 

bcradio

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Radial saws are great at cross-cutting or making angle cuts. A table saw can cross-cut, but it can also rip large pieces of wood, something a radial cannot do. It can also dad0, something else a radial reallt wasn't designed for. A well equipped wood working shop must have both saws. If you can only afford one of the two, get a table saw and use a handheld circular saw as a substitute for the radial.

No... Get a SCMS and a table saw. No radial arm saw, unless the price is amazing.
 

cgv69

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Radial arm saws are dinosaurs. As you have discovered there are many other more accurate and useful alternatives.
I'm going to agree with that /\ as well. I personally wouldn't waste my time with one even if it was given to me for free.

If you want to get into WW'ing, the #1 tool to get IMO is a quality tablesaw. They are much more accurate, flexable and safer. Add to that a compound miter saw (CMS) or if you have the money, a SCMS (Sliding Compound Miter Saw) for the most capacity and flexibility for those long narrow boards.
 

Jim_No_Garage

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One of the joys of an RAS is using it with a good dado set. CMS will crosscut same as an RAS but can't dado. My RAS got stolen out of storage 12 years ago and I've not ponied up the $$$$ for a replacement. Maybe when I get the WW shop built at the next house.

Jim
 
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MJO

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What's so dangerous about RA saws?

I have a line on a free one, an older Craftsman. I've done a little research and heard a couple people says they're dangerous, but I don't think I've ready why.

The blade spins in a direction that moves the blade towards the operator, kind of "self feeds" in the operators direction and that is the supposed danger. I've used one for over thirty years and still have all my fingers.
 

kapster

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My uncle gave me a craftsman a few years ago, its ok but I'd much rather have a table saw and a compound miter saw. It's difficult to square in the table, and ripping is a joke when the head is extended. The head just flexs, very inaccurate. You can do a lot of stuff with one, but won't do any one thing very good. Now the delta like norm abram used, those things look like tanks.

Forest and Freud both make blades specifically for sliding miter and radial arm. I have a Freud, basically it makes it less free cutting so it doesn't bite in.
 

thebeekeeper1

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The blade spins in a direction that moves the blade towards the operator, kind of "self feeds" in the operators direction and that is the supposed danger. I've used one for over thirty years and still have all my fingers.

That's ^^^ it, but it's nothing a firm grip on the handle doesn't easily solve. I met a guy who held his board against the fence with his thumb in line with the cut and cut it clean off. He learned a painful lesson, but still blamed himself and did not declare the saw "dangerous" over it. Stupid is as stupid does . . .
 

woody 73

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Why RA Saws...

Crosscuts
Dadoes
Rabbets
Miters
Bevels
Ripping

Dinosaurs I don't think that way; yes you can take the new small miter saws into each room and set them on the floor unlike the heavy RAS but they still have their place. Every lumber company that I have ever walked into were still using them.
 

coolreed

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Before the advent of sliding crosscut miter saws Radial Arm Saws were very popular. They were the original sliding crosscut saws, but you could also rip stock with them too. They were a very versatile tool.

But the newer sliding compound miter saws have been the death of Radial Arm Saws and RAS's cannot match a Table Saw for accuracy, especially when ripping wood.

However, if you have a nice RAS it is still a very useful woodworking tool if you have the space. They can be purchased used very cheaply. If I had the space I would own one....again.

:3gears:
 

rharman

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I loved my radial arm saw the many years I had it. Used it for EVERYTHING. I sold it to gain space but sure do miss it.

That being said, you are much better off investing in a good tablesaw for your primary tool. Do not skimp on it. Get as good as you can afford but no need to go crazy. Add a good outfeed table and you're off to a great start.

Then, consider a compound miter saw (sliding or chop) down the road. As Midnight_America said, you can use a handheld circular saw in place of the RAS.

I agree with coolreed.... If I had the space, I'm pretty sure I would find a RAS to fill it.

If you get one, please be sure to practice safety at all times. This is a tool that can bite you real quick if you're not paying attention.
 

Voi

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An older quality RAS like a Dewalt "round arm" is technically a more versatile machine than a CMS Slider. Others have already mentioned why. Personally I think this versatility is a minor point as most shops that have radial arm saws set them up for either 90* cross cuts or 90" "dados". The reason why they're popular for that is because some of the older machines hold their settings once dialed in better than any slider. There are also a lot of old RAS with much greater crosscut (and therefore dado) capacity than any slider.

And contrary to what has been said here, a RAS actually has less of a footprint since the machine can be set flush with a wall, unlike a slider.

A slider wins for its portability.

The new kid on the block that I haven't bought yet is the Bosch "Axial Glide System" which uses an articulating arm instead of a slider mechanism. Real world results suggest a miter saw with the capacity of a slider but that holds its settings much better. It also can be set up flush or close to flush with a wall when used in a semi-permanent setting.


But even then it can't be set up for dados so many shops will keep their radial arm saws as dedicated dado machines. And shops that need 24" cross cut capacity will continue to use whatever they're using now.

So the RAS isn't dead yet but for the first time in years the older Dewalt (actually De Walt back then) aren't being snapped up by collectors. If one has any desire for a RAS and there is one of these sitting on their local CL then by all means buy it. There are numerous resources on the web for restoring and making the most of these old saws.
 

fyrlt1

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What's so dangerous about RA saws?

I have a line on a free one, an older Craftsman. I've done a little research and heard a couple people says they're dangerous, but I don't think I've ready why.

I have had a radial saw since 1977 with no accidents. I have had one thankfully minor accident in 7 years with the table saw and that was due to lack of proper setup. I prefer the radial because it is easy to go from one cutting mode to the other.
 

mngundog

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Because if all you are doing is cross cutting they can be bought for $75 off CL and take essentially the same amount of space as a sliding compound miter. I used one daily for work for about 6 years I wouldn't say a miter box is any more safe than a radial arm.
 

justanengineer

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Not sure why so many of you fellas are differentiating between a radial arm saw and a "miter saw"....every radial arm saw Ive ever seen miters. The new radial "chop saws" have a nice feel and can leave a slightly cleaner cut, but are rather flimsy if youre planning to keep it any length of time so no thanks. The old (Cman?) radial arm saw in my grandfather's sawmill has been used daily since new in the 60s. Any wear has always adjusted out of it and nobody has ever had an accident with it...admittedly Im cheap, but thats the way I would go if I ever need another. My current RAS is an 80s Cman model that I bought earlier this year for $2 and is still fully supported by Cman for parts. I didnt want it initially but figured for the price and being I bought a house at the same time, I figured why not. Its paid for itself a million times over as a much quicker/easier/safer solution over the tablesaw.
 

KesterHouse

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Hi ho,

A number of years ago I had a Cman RAS built in to a 12' bench. It was a friends that he had no room for, so we set it up at my place. He moved away and so did the saw, so when house renovation time came around again, I purchased a Milwaukee 10" sliding compound miter saw. Here's the main differences I found between the two:

Cross-cutting: If you have the bench space and can build in the RAS, it's wonderful for making very accurate cross-cuts, especially when you need to take just a tad off the end off a 12' 2x10. The SCMS will make the same cut, but you need to figure out some method of supporting all that lumber that's hanging off the end of the little 2-foot wide SCMS base.

Cross-cut Dados: Again, if doing lots of repeated cross-cut dados, the depth of cut adjustment on the RAS is better than the SCMS. The SCMS can be adjusted for dado cuts, but it's tricky. Also, on the SCMS, as you raise the depth of cut from the table, you also cause the blade to not cut all the way to the fence on thicker stock. So if you're making dados in 2x stock, for example, you'd need to add some spacers between the fence and the stock to get the cut to go all the way through. Remember that the base of that SCMS is only a couple feet wide, so you need to also add those spacers out on the ends of whatever you've rigged up to support the stock. Finally for dados, with the SCMs you'll either need to make lots of little passes, or a pass along each edge of the dado, then chisel out the waste. With the RAS, you can install a dado cutting blade stack to cut the exact width you need with one pass.

Rip-cuts: Don't bother. A pair of sawhorses and a worm-drive circular saw with a rip guide will do a better job on dimensional lumber, IMO. For sheet stock or furniture lumber, use the table saw, period.

Table Wear: With the SCMS, the table spins with the saw, so regardless of the angles you're using, the saw always rides in the same slot. Eventually (if doing a lot of compound miter work), the plastic plate the blade edges rides in will get wider and wider, and need to be replaced to prevent tearout when making crosscuts. The plates are inexpensive and easy to replace. With the RAS the wood table/bench is stationary, so every time you make an angle adjustment to the saw, you're cutting a new slot in the table. Eventually the table will look like someone's run amok with a router on it and it'll need to be replaced. Just something to keep in mind when building the saw bench if you choose to go down the RAS path.

The Bottom Line: If you're planning to do framing carpentry work or roof rafter work, I'd highly recommend the SCMS. It's very portable, and if you purchase a few extras, it will do the job very well (I bought a StableMate saw stand, and additional stand extension for working up to 16' lumber, as well as a shelf and wheel accessories to make it all portable). If on the other hand you're planning to do cabinet or furniture work, I'd say get the RAS and build it in to the center of a 16' workbench. It will give you much better stock control and easy repeatable cuts, as well as greatly improved cross-cut dado capabilities.

Hope the helps,
-JeffK
 
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D

dirttracker18

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Hmmm

Lots to think about. I was kinda figuring that it was outdated and I don't need one since I already have a CMS and table saw.

Now I'm thinking I have anther tool to buy and need to build a dedicated wood working shop :)
 

Hephaestus29

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My dad has an old 12" Craftsman Radial Arm Saw that he bought new in 1968, he did sell it once but bought it back years later & it's still running & gets used frequently. I've seen several like it on C.L. & he wishes he had another one because the one he's using now is dedicated to helping him make canjos.
 

Zeke

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Hmmm

Lots to think about. I was kinda figuring that it was outdated and I don't need one since I already have a CMS and table saw.

Now I'm thinking I have anther tool to buy and need to build a dedicated wood working shop :)

Let me help you with that decision: you can buy a decent RA saw for much less than 100 bucks. How much less depends on how much patience you have.

Try getting a SCMS that will cross cut 24" at 90* for less than 600. First of all, they don't cut 24". Largest one cuts 13". I think the Makita had a siding saw at one time that had a large cross cut capacity. Theoretically, you can turn your 24" work around and cut back toward the center.

So if you're building cabinets, a RA saw is a good tool to have. Set up at 90* it will work well on end panels, sides and shelves.
 

zuk123

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Radial arm saws, particularly the delta/dewalt style where the sliding arm pivots in the middle of the over-arm still have a place in the shop.

As mentioned, they excel at crosscutting dados. In the time it takes to set up and fine tune a router jig for shelf dados, you can get most of the CUTS done on a RAS. They do take more time to initially set up square and true, but once done, they will stay good for a long time. If you are building stuff in a style that uses half lap joinery, the RAS is the only way to go. (I've worked in dozens of scene shops too, and they ALL have RAS set up. Heck, mine shop has one as I used to primarily build scenery.)

The safety issues come down to proper technique and well set up machines, just like any other tool. You can hurt yourself on anything. LOTS of injuries from tablesaws, 1000's per year. I don't have a number, but chop saws can hurt you too. In fact, the only serious injury I've seen on a tv show was a chop saw injury (on Flip this House with the guys on the east coast.) That said IMO, there is no reason to rip on a RAS. Use a tool design for the operation.

zuk
 

SMKS

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I'm more and more liking the idea of getting the free Craftsman RA saw after reading this thread. I don't have anything for crosscuts besides a circular saw, so it would be an upgrade for me.
 

Zeke

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Get a good set up and truing tutorial. If you can lay the saw over at a 45 and set the arm at a 45 and the blade stays off the table just enough to move a business card w/o binding from all the way back to all the way out, you've got it set up correctly and you can do accurate compound miters. Picture frames will actually line up to make a true rectangle.

That is the ultimate test for accurate set up, making a compound mitered rectangle. A lot of high end chop saws won't even do that if they've been kicked around a bit in the back of a truck.

I've got one that has been dropped enough times that all is does is cut firewood. A chop saw. I never dropped a RAS. ;) :D
 
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