Why is this difficult?

[expatriated]

Just bought an older home and have been gutting it. Ripped out the bathroom fixtures and of course had a heck of a time shutting off the angle valves to get the sinks out.

So, I was going to replace all of them. I go to Lowe's and they have angle valves for connecting with copper and angle valves for connecting with iron pipe.

I have copper pipe throughout the house but the stems coming out of the wall where the angle valve screws onto is chromed. Which valves do I buy--for iron or for copper?

Probably a dumb question but I know nothing about plumbing, other than I want to be able to shut off stuff easily when I need to!

 

[expatriated]

here's a pic

 

[skcj213]

The pipes coming out of your wall should have tapered pipe thread (npt). Get the valve made for npt. Also, get the 1/4 turn valves, they will last longer.

 

[383 240z]

Hey ex-pat, is that location of yours, a nautical reference, maybe from "Son of a Son of a Sailor? Keith

 

[G_P]

You need valves for iron pipe. It will either be 3/8" or 1/2". Take one of the old valves with you to the store to match up.

SKCJ makes a valid point with the 1/4 turn valves. They are much more reliable when you have to shut the water off again years later.

 

[Scott r c]

You need iron pipe valves. On a lot of houses that used copper when copper was becoming the "in" thing, the plumbers used drop ear 90's in the wall and stubbed out iron pipe *******. And get quarter turn ball valve style ones.

 

[fnieto]

I could be wrong but I believe the threads will work for both provided the same size is used. I believe the chrome ****** is just for a finished look.

 

[expatriated]

Hey ex-pat, is that location of yours, a nautical reference, maybe from "Son of a Son of a Sailor? Keith

good eye

 

[expatriated]

You need valves for iron pipe. It will either be 3/8" or 1/2". Take one of the old valves with you to the store to match up.

SKCJ makes a valid point with the 1/4 turn valves. They are much more reliable when you have to shut the water off again years later.

Yeah, I'm definitely getting the 1/4 turn ones. I went to the store the other day to get 10 or so but I didn't realize they were different sizes. They have 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8 OD. I was thinking I have 5/8's. I guess I'll have to take one with me. The main water shutoff is not 100% though (it still lets some escape) and I didn't want to leave the house without something on the pipe.

 

[G_P]

There is no 5/8" threaded pipe that would be common in household plumbing. 5/8" is the OD of 1/2" copper pipe for a sweat fitting.

Its most likely 1/2" IPS (iron pipe size) Iron pipe is measured by is inner diameter so 1/2" pipe is close to 3/4" outer diameter.

 

[skcj213]

Put a drip pan or something under the ******. Also, if you have another faucet or maybe a spigot outside that is lower than the one you are working on you can try opening it up. The water leaking through the main shutoff should drain out the lowest opening.

 

[expatriated]

There is no 5/8" threaded pipe that would be common in household plumbing. 5/8" is the OD of 1/2" copper pipe for a sweat fitting.

Its most likely 1/2" IPS (iron pipe size) Iron pipe is measured by is inner diameter so 1/2" pipe is close to 3/4" outer diameter.

So this?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_272718-143-...e&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=angle+valve&facetInfo=

 

[G_P]

This one.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

You want the outlet fitting on the valve to be 3/8" compression thread. Unless for some reason you have 1/2" OD chrome tubes going up to your faucet, but that is not common.

The best way is to remove one of the old valves and bring it with you so that you can get an exact match just in a 1/4 turn valve instead of the old style.

 

[expatriated]

Cool. Thanks!

 

[2x_Tom]

Those 3/8 ******* tend to rot out and get weak. I've been to more then one house where one was broken off at the threads inside the wall because someone bumped I to it. I've also broken a couple myself trying backing Off old supply valves only to find the threads completly destroyed.
I would suggest you change the ******* as well as the valves. If they do happen to twist off and break in the wall you have the wall open anyway to change the elbow.

 

[rslaback]

I would suggest you change the ******* as well as the valves. If they do happen to twist off and break in the wall you have the wall open anyway to change the elbow.

. . .unless you are able to use an internal pipe wrench to get the broken thread chunk out.

 

[wbrian63]

I use a brass pipe ****** to stub out from the cast "eared" elbow that I screw (no nails, thank you) into blocking in the wall.
Costs more, but when a guest bathroom goes unused for months on end, you'll never get rusty water out of the lavatory.

 

[expatriated]

Thanks for all your help, guys. Got both of them changed today to 1/4 turn valves. Replaced the ******* too, although they seemed ok. Since the wall is open (for re-drywalling), I figured I'd do it all now.

Had a heck of time with one valve leaking at the threads. Finally got enough tape on it to stop it. I would starve if I were a plumber!

 

[G_P]

Lots of these valves are made in China now. Along with the *******. I remember when HD switched from US made Watts brass fittings to Chinese made Watts fittings. The difference was night and day. US fittings were machined and well finished and heavy. Chinese fittings were roughly cast, had **** threads in them and weighed half what the US made stuff did.

I have found that with cheap fittings/pipe you will sometimes need a lot of tape and have to crank the fitting super tight to finally get them to seal up. Its like the taper on the male thread is wrong or something.

 

[2x_Tom]

Lots of these valves are made in China now. Along with the *******. I remember when HD switched from US made Watts brass fittings to Chinese made Watts fittings. The difference was night and day. US fittings were machined and well finished and heavy. Chinese fittings were roughly cast, had **** threads in them and weighed half what the US made stuff did.

I have found that with cheap fittings/pipe you will sometimes need a lot of tape and have to crank the fitting super tight to finally get them to seal up. Its like the taper on the male thread is wrong or something.

The stuff from China is absolute junk. I've had tons of brass fittings leak through the fitting itself due to a bad casting. I'd guess as many as 1 in 40 of them.
Lead free brass too I've noticed requires a little more strength to tighten then the old brass did. The thread depth stays the same but it's not as easy to turn. I worry that it's going to get brittle and crack a few years down the road.
Did you use any pipe dope as well as the teflon? Though you technically only need one or the other I usually use both on brass. The dope lubricates better then the teflon and makes it easier to turn.