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WiFi IN MY SHOP

GTH

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Chase City, VA
Hello all. It has been a long time since I have been on the site. Who can advise me on the best way for me to get WiFi in my shop? It is a cinder block building 50 feet from my house. I have good Wi-Fi all through the brick house, but outside the side of the house closest to the shop I get very little signal and no usable signal in my shop. My first thought was to run some cat5 cable from my router to my shop and connect a router there. Some friends are suggesting I add a booster or range extender at the edge of the house and then again inside the shop closest to the house. Have any of you had good luck extending your home network into a shop or barn/outbuilding? I have looked at the Netgear range extenders but am unsure how they would work using two to three in a linear fashion to extend the network.

What do yall suggest
 
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manwithtools

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Ubiquitit.... will have many options for you. I have their product at work for wifi in our office and shop and at home between house and shop. They work great.
 

Jazz1

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I tried a couple boosters and neither got a signal into garage. Its all of 30' from house to garage so I opted for a $35 D-Link. It hardwires my computer in garage.
 

pacecar

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bryan, tx
It might be a little more complicated, but I would run a cat5e wire from the first router to a second router in the shop

If you want it to play nice with the rest of your network keep the first router as the dhcp server and change the second routers ip address to a different address than the first....but in the same subnet

Default will be something like

192.x.x.1 first router
192.x.x.2 second router (this will have to be changed to this)

Theres a lot of resources out there, video and web tutorials. Get it all working in the house first, then move it to the garage/shop.
 

Beemer533

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If all you need is WiFi (no hardwire ports) then the easiest way to go is use an AP (access point) like the Ubiquiti Unifi .

All you need to do is run the CAT5e as you mentioned from your home router or any switch on your network. In your shop just connect that CAT5e cable to the PoE (power over ethernet) injector included with the Unifi.

From the PoE injector run another CAT5e to wherever you mount the AP (best is typically on the ceiling like a. Smoke detector). This cable provides both power and data so you don't need to worry about having an outlet nearby (you just need one for the injector, but that can be up to 100 meters away from the AP.

I have 3 of these for my house, garage and backyard and once setup initially, they have worked with no issues for several years.

One nice thing is that if you want to add additional ones, you can just mirror the original setup with a couple clicks..
 

CatSplat

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It might be a little more complicated, but I would run a cat5e wire from the first router to a second router in the shop

If you want it to play nice with the rest of your network keep the first router as the dhcp server and change the second routers ip address to a different address than the first....but in the same subnet

Default will be something like

192.x.x.1 first router
192.x.x.2 second router (this will have to be changed to this)

Theres a lot of resources out there, video and web tutorials. Get it all working in the house first, then move it to the garage/shop.

That's one option, and certainly the right one if you plan to have devices hardwired to that router. That said, if you're only looking for WiFi, it's a whole lot simpler (and often cheaper) to just install a wireless access point instead of a full-on router. I dug an old WAP54G out of a box and installed it in my garage and it works perfectly. Super easy to configure, as well.
 

Fallon

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I've been a sysadmin for a couple decades & built a WiFi link across Kabul Afghanistan to get Internet access...With all that experience and well over $1000 worth of random WiFi gear in boxes I used crappy CAT3 phone line to get Internet out to my shop rather than deal with WiFi repeaters or extenders. Repeaters & extenders & just point to point WiFi links are always a pain at best & pretty flaky at worst.

I recently trenched out to my shop for a solar install & ran spare conduit to pull Ethernet in. Haven't pulled the cable yet, but the conduit is all in place. Still using the 2 pair of CAT3 to get 100 megabit for the moment, but not for much longer.

Sent from my K00C using Tapatalk
 

encantofred

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Arizona
i ran 1" conduit from my house to my shop, about 175 foot. i used direct bury shielded cat6. i have the ubiquity unify Lr in the shop and it works great.

tom
 

CNGsaves

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Cheap solution also would be POE like SlingBox devices or similar - - - this assumes that garage electrical is on same circuit as house.

However, at only 50 ft I'd just bury plastic conduit between the building and run all your low voltage stuff out to the garage in hard wire . . . . CATV, internet, security, phone, etc.
 

Showkey

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Had the same issue as the original post..........after the third router and various extenders ..........found one that solved the signal problem in the shop. Now have 60 Mbps ...........

Changed from Linksys and then D- link finally to TPLINK Archer C9 night and day difference.

My situation was 60' distance to the shop, shop walls, wood with vinyl siding and metal siding on the inside. Prior poor to no WiFi signal unless I was standing in the door way.
 
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wes73

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If you have the conduit (separate from power) already in the ground, run a pair of cat5 (one for backup). Then get either another router or AP depending on your needs.
 

mygarageone

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Had the same issue as the original post..........after the third router and various extenders ..........found one that solved the signal problem in the shop. Now have 60 Mbps ...........

Changed from Linksys and then D- link finally to TPLINK Archer C9 night and day difference.

My situation was 60' distance to the shop, shop walls, wood with vinyl siding and metal siding on the inside. Prior poor to no WiFi signal unless I was standing in the door way.


Question

Do you think it would work with my shop .

About 60' from house , steel siding , steel roof , interior walls plywood , ceiling steel.
I haven't been able to get wifi out there yet.
 

Crazyjake8493

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I did exactly what Beemer suggested with the Ubiquiti Unifi AP. 75' of Cat6 cable to my garage, and put the AP in the garage attic by the back window. I get great Wifi coverage throughout my garage, and 300-400' out into the backyard by our firepit and horseshoe pits. I'm not a fan of wireless extenders if it's possible to get wire to an access point or another router.
 

CJ7VFR

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...Have any of you had good luck extending your home network into a shop or barn/outbuilding? I have looked at the Netgear range extenders but am unsure how they would work using two to three in a linear fashion to extend the network.

I have Netgears model EX6100 Dual Band AC750 WiFi Extender at my house to get a stronger WiFi signal to both my shed and my garage, and it has worked flawlessly for two years now.

The router is at one end of my house, and the garage is on the opposite end, about 75 feet away from the router. Also, my shed is about another 50 feet from the garage.

I installed the extender in the breezeway that is between my house and the garage, about 50 feet from the router.

I get full bars of WiFi in the garage and I get full bars in the shed as well. As a matter of fact, when I first put the extender in, I walked around my entire property with my iPad, and I could get a very good signal (full bars to half bars) just about everywhere, even out near the street at our mailbox, which is about 100 feet from the extender.

Because of the dual band of the extender (2.4 and 5.0 GHz) you can put the extender on the 5.0GHz band and avoid any interference with cordless phones and other devices, which usually use the 2.4GHz band.

Obviously hard wiring will always provide the best connection, but for me, this extender worked out great. It was easy to install (just plug into a wall outlet), cheap, less hassles than punching holes in walls or digging trenches to run conduit, buying the wires, running the wires and all that. I got it on sale for around $40.00 from Newegg in one of their email sales deals.

This is just another alternative to hard wiring if you decide to check it out.

Jim
 

Showkey

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Question

Do you think it would work with my shop .

About 60' from house , steel siding , steel roof , interior walls plywood , ceiling steel.
I haven't been able to get wifi out there yet.

Not sure ? But all in the C9 was about $100.00..........all I can confirm it work in my case.
I learned of the C9 from my son in law ........he was in a condo situation. With dozens of WiFi signal in a small area. The C9 solved his signal issue his of course was rated to congestion not distance. I was not willing to spend $400-500 on a router so gave the C9 a try. As bonus my wireless printer use to drop drop the connection with the Linksys and was a ***** to get the connection back. That issue was resolved with the new router. The printer was 15' from the router.

There are a lot variables in WiFi some just in placement and location and direction of the devices. Not to mention setup variables and quality of the box itself.
 
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Beemer533

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I would just run the cable into the shop and use an AP.. No questions about whether or not it will work... And if you decide to later a add a desktop PC or whatever, all you need to do is throw in a switch and you are good to go...
 

Steevo

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I pulled two Cat6 Ethernet cables into my shop through buried conduit, and terminated them in standard electrical boxes. One on the wall above the workbench area, and one in the center of the ceiling. I put a B/G/N access point on the ceiling box, powered via POE from back at the house end of the run, where the cable modem, switch and in-house AP reside.
I ended up with better wireless throughput in the shop than in the house, since that AP is right there in the middle of the ceiling, and the one in the house is near one end, in the basement, and has to go through walls, deal with metal A/C duct interference, etc.
I was able to get some WiFi service from the house AP before that, but weak, and also only good enough for browsing when I stood at one end of the shop. Now my living room, where the big window faces towards the shop, can get good signal from either AP.
 
OP
G

GTH

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Thank you guys for all the information. It looks like most agree the best way is to run some cat5 and hardwire it.
 
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GTH

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Do you actually need WiFi for a cell phone or Ipad or are you using a laptop or older PC that could easily be hard wired ?

I want the wifi, don't want to be dragging wires around the shop. I use my cell a lot around the house for Internet too. Cell service ***** so this will give me more flexibility.
 

checkthisout

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Network guys,

When you set up a network with multiple access points, do all the access points simply behave as one large antenna or does the device you're using have to drop the connection from each point before it connects to the next one?
 

checkthisout

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I want the wifi, don't want to be dragging wires around the shop. I use my cell a lot around the house for Internet too. Cell service ***** so this will give me more flexibility.

If you can run cable, run cable but you have also have the option of powerline Ethernet that would allow you to put an access point in your garage.

I don't know how effective these are so you'll need to be my beta tester.
 

A1an

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I'm running a powerline ethernet connection to another office in my house since I needed a physical port for a VoIP phone. Works great. Could possibly be a solution for the OP if the garage is on the same electrical as the house. If it has a separate electrical box I'm not sure if/how that would work.
 

Beemer533

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Network guys,

When you set up a network with multiple access points, do all the access points simply behave as one large antenna or does the device you're using have to drop the connection from each point before it connects to the next one?
With the Ubiquiti Unifi I linked to, they are all configured identically (as far as SSID at least) so you have no idea that you are moving between different AP.

I have 3 and it is completely seamless.

This post edited by the NSA
 
OP
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GTH

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If you can run cable, run cable but you have also have the option of powerline Ethernet that would allow you to put an access point in your garage.

I don't know how effective these are so you'll need to be my beta tester.

I'm running a powerline ethernet connection to another office in my house since I needed a physical port for a VoIP phone. Works great. Could possibly be a solution for the OP if the garage is on the same electrical as the house. If it has a separate electrical box I'm not sure if/how that would work.

Now you have brought up an interesting twist. My shop is powered with 24vac from my house via a disconnect and a 50A breaker. I did not know that Ethernet over powerline technology was readily available. Do you get much interference?
 

NUTTSGT

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I want the wifi, don't want to be dragging wires around the shop. I use my cell a lot around the house for Internet too. Cell service ***** so this will give me more flexibility.

You do want you have to do man, I was just tryin gto gather more information so that everybody can give you the best advice.

Cell service ***** in our area too so I know how you feel. I ran a Cat5e out to my garage, put in a switch and now have 3 access points to plug in for my laptop.
 

Fallon

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The Ethernet over power line stuff *****. I wouldn't waste my time with it. Trying to put data over a small chunk of the insanely big power grid isn't stable. How many circuits do you have in your house? The signal will be echoing over every one at different speeds due to different lengths, gauges & any other number of factors.

EoP ends up being slow & flaky in the best of situations. You are better off with bridged WiFi.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
 

wniemann

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I used the ubiquiti nano's. Its about 300' from house to shop. Easy setup it you dont mind it hanging out in a window. Have it connected to a router in the shop. Hasn't missed a beat in 3 years.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

Dragfluid

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I'm surprised we haven't heard from those that strongly oppose hard wiring between buildings due to lightning issues.

For the record, I've got direct burial CAT (5 or 6) between the house and shed.
I guess we'll see.
 

shade

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You dont need a second router in the garage
you need the cat5 ran to the shop.
terminate
plug a network switch into the line that was run from the house.
now you can plug your computers into the switch.
if you want wireless in the garage still get an access point NOT a router and plug it into the network switch.
no need for a router in the garage plus it just complicates the setup with no advantage
 

ABSTIFFGS

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I have one Ubiquiti Picostation in my house and one in my garage. I have the unifi software on my PC that acts as the controller. Zero handoff between the 2 AP's. It is really neat how cheap and effective the Ubiquiti stuff is.
 

Steevo

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Network guys,

When you set up a network with multiple access points, do all the access points simply behave as one large antenna or does the device you're using have to drop the connection from each point before it connects to the next one?

Typically, there are two primary ways to do it.

Method 1:
Both (all) AP's on the same SSID, and set each adjacent AP set to a different channel within the 8 that are available on 802.11 a/b/g WiFi AP's. This lets the same SSID be used regardless where you are within your WiFi network, and if set up correctly with smart controllers, etc., allows live roaming between AP's while still actively using a WiFi device. This is how it is typically done in large corporate networks where you might be "roaming" between access points around the building/campus while connected (WiFi phone, tablet, WiFi medical equip., etc.).

Method 2:
Set each AP up with its own SSID, let them pick whatever channel they prefer, and set your devices up with another WiFi SSID to choose from. If your device can still "see" an AP that is farther away and weaker, it may still hang on to the old connection even though there is a stronger one closer to it. Using method 2, you can either force selection on your iPhone, iPad, or other mobile device when you enter the shop, or wait for it to realize that one of it's available SSIDs is a stronger signal and it will switch by itself. Kinda like when you enter Home Depot or other place you may have added to your known networks list.

I set my second AP in the shop up using method 2, and with the AP acting as DHCP server for the devices that attach to it (same network/mask as house WiFi, with a reserved set of IP addresses that don't overlap those served by the router in the house).

MyiPhone almost always switches to the shop AP soon after I enter, but occasionally I notice it is showing a weak signal when I want to use it for something like streaming music, so I go to settings and select the "shop" WiFi, and it moves over to that. My laptop looks for the best signal among its known WiFi networks right when it starts up, so if I am in the shop, it naturally picks that one. The WiFi on the iPhone would do the same if it were turned off and on, but who does that?

I also like seeing my "Steevo1" and "Steevo2" WiFi networks listed when I "show available WiFi networks" anywhere near my house. I wonder what my neighbors think when they see that? "Why does that crazy old fart have two WiFi networks?"
 

Steevo

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The Ethernet over power line stuff *****. I wouldn't waste my time with it. Trying to put data over a small chunk of the insanely big power grid isn't stable. How many circuits do you have in your house? The signal will be echoing over every one at different speeds due to different lengths, gauges & any other number of factors.

EoP ends up being slow & flaky in the best of situations. You are better off with bridged WiFi.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


I am not endorsing power-line-Ethernet stuff, because I don't care for it myself, but it has its place when no other option exists.

One of the issues with the "Ethernet over power line" devices it that the receptacles you plug them into need to all be on the same "phase" of your power panel. If you set one up and they don't seem to connect, or are very random in their connectivity, they are probably on different phases, and either the device or one of the two building's receptacle circuit breakers needs to be shifted one slot up or down to the other phase so the devices can "see" one another better.
 

Pwrgeek

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I'm surprised we haven't heard from those that strongly oppose hard wiring between buildings due to lightning issues.

For the record, I've got direct burial CAT (5 or 6) between the house and shed.
I guess we'll see.


It's a bad idea. I've gone through why in other threads. Fiber is cheap. All that said its your equipment and you've been warned. You may get away with it for the next 20 years fine and it may blow up all the electronics connected to your network. Like most other things in this world it's all a cost vs risk decision.


The Ethernet over power line stuff *****. I wouldn't waste my time with it. Trying to put data over a small chunk of the insanely big power grid isn't stable. How many circuits do you have in your house? The signal will be echoing over every one at different speeds due to different lengths, gauges & any other number of factors.

EoP ends up being slow & flaky in the best of situations. You are better off with bridged WiFi.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


I use Ethernet over powerline stuff. It has come a long way in the last few years. While a CAT 5 is the best the HomePlug units are way more reliable for me than WiFi especially for high bandwidth application. I use them to get my network into my TV for streaming high def (20 MBps video encodes) rips of my Blu Ray collection. There is just no way to get a cable to the back of my TV with any acceptable level of WAF intact and when I was using wifi (802.11 N at the router and device) I'd get drop outs or stutters anytime the bitrate got high (think explosion scenes). For the past two years I've been using a set of the Netgear 500 HomePlug devices and I've never had a problem or had to touch them.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Falcon67

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Concur the OP needs cable - I have to deal with many buildings built with brick and cinder block and those really kill wifi signals, especially 5 Ghz. So do metal buildings. Chain link is also good for stopping 2.4 Ghz - think baseball/softball and tennis facilities.

You dont need a second router in the garage
you need the cat5 ran to the shop.
terminate
plug a network switch into the line that was run from the house.
now you can plug your computers into the switch.
if you want wireless in the garage still get an access point NOT a router and plug it into the network switch.
no need for a router in the garage plus it just complicates the setup with no advantage

Wifi makes for simpler connections. I hardwired to a router in the shop and it is plenty useful. You may assume that everyone sits at a bench or desk when using a computer, that's not necessarily so. I run a network that includes 200 access points, nobody wants to be tied to a wall anymore if they don't have to be. Our home system has 3 wifi routers and two Ubiquity nodes and only two devices out of maybe 20 are hardwired.
 

jeepnatv4life

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I used the ubiquiti nano's. Its about 300' from house to shop. Easy setup it you dont mind it hanging out in a window. Have it connected to a router in the shop. Hasn't missed a beat in 3 years.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Explain how this principle works? My shop will be 42 feet from my house.. And this sounds interesting how does it work?
 

wniemann

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I go from my main house router tho the PoE injector. Then from the injector to the nano. The shop set up is the same. Nano to PoE injector. Then injector to wherever you want internet, (in my case another router to get wireless in the whole shop).

I don't know the speed throughput, but according to those speedtests it's within a couple tenths of the same speed as the main line in the house.

There is a little setup to do on the nano's themselves but I think I just followed a tutorial online. I remember the whole setup didn't take me more than an hour.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

jeepnatv4life

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I go from my main house router tho the PoE injector. Then from the injector to the nano. The shop set up is the same. Nano to PoE injector. Then injector to wherever you want internet, (in my case another router to get wireless in the whole shop).

I don't know the speed throughput, but according to those speedtests it's within a couple tenths of the same speed as the main line in the house.

There is a little setup to do on the nano's themselves but I think I just followed a tutorial online. I remember the whole setup didn't take me more than an hour.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

can i not just run a ethernet cable from my router thru conduit into my shopand plug up another wireless router?

Im new to this and want wireless in my shop
 
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