Will I regret wood walls vs drywall?

[Choirboy]

Since real work is actually getting done on my 20x28 shop, I figured I would start some threads and pick some brains.
The shop will be combination wood and auto shop. The two long walls have no doors nor windows, the end walls will have lots of both. I plan on many lights in the ceiling.
A primary concern aesthetically is keeping the building looking old to fit in with my 100 year old farmhouse. I want the interior to look 1940s at latest, 1920s at best. I figure wood will look more appropriate but I bet I can make either work.
I've been planning on covering the inside walls with salvaged barnboard etc to cover the insulation, but have two concerns:
1. Will the medium colored wood combined with my lack of side windows make my shop oppressively dark?
2. How big of a risk am I taking by not putting up drywall with its fire rating? Very little welding and only moderate angle grinder use, but still, sparks will fly. I don't want to burn the place down!!
What are your thoughts?

 

[EOC_Jason]

I think wood walls are so much more utilitarian than sheetrock.

I would imagine there would be a lot more flammable things around than having to worry about the wall catching on fire. As long as someone isn't sitting right next to it showering it with sparks...

 

[Falcon67]

One of my over budget ideas was to insulate the shop then do the interior walls like an old garage, with 1x12 "siding" and studs, hosed with a little whitewash for color and aging.

I used OSB and while it's darker than drywall plus white paint I like the warm color. First time you spin around with a 2x4 and smack the wall or hit it with a bumper, you'll be glad there's no drywall. I do have a hole in my OSB, took a golf cart at full song to do it.

 

[Beemer533]

This thread will bring out all the OSB/Plywood/Drywall fan boys/haters...!

SO, IMHO...
That being said, for aesthetic considerations in order of best to worst: Drywall, plywood, OSB. (worst being relative - I don't think painted OSB looks bad, just not as good as drywall)

Durability (assumes your roof isn't leaking) if you are hard on things: Plywood/OSB (close to a tie), drywall.

Cost cheapest to most expensive: OSB, drywall, plywood. How you finish makes a difference though; Drywall costs can add up if you pay someone to mud/tape.....

Personally, I am perfectly happy with painted OSB. If I was doing a "show" garage, I would probably go with drywall, but I like being able to lean things against a wall, or to screw things into it anywhere I need without looking for studs. Plywood is just as good as OSB, if not better, but way too expensive (for me) to justify vs the cost of OSB.

 

[Sunbimmer]

...or to screw things into it anywhere I need without looking for studs...

True, very true, excellent point.

 

[Choirboy]

OSB is really not an option. My two options are drywall or salvaged barnboards (sitting in my backyard at the moment). I've also considered a 'wainscot' of galvanized metal in near my grinder.

No one thinks the wood will be too dark?

 

[SteveCh]

I don't think it will be too dark with wood. And I like a lot of light. I have some wood walls in my house, and it is plenty light, though I have large windows.

If you choose drywall, for the "20s" look, consider a texture for the drywall that simulates plaster. I did this in our bedroom, and it came out very nice. And I am not a drywaller. I set up some scrap pieces of drywall outdoors and experimented with ways to get the texture with only a couple of drywall knives [like wide "putty knives."] Probably some youtube videos on how to do it, too.

If you go with drywall, it might save you some time later one to draw a diagram of the stud locations first, then keep it in a cabinet or tool box. You go to hang something or mount a shelf, look at the diagram and you'll know within seconds where studs are, without bothering with a stud finder or tapping against the wall with a hammer.

 

[hoho98925]

I like the fact you are keeping it "older". I like the idea of the wood exposed 4' off the floor and up. I would do something like a 4' tall reclaimed corrugated roofing wainscoting that would protect the walls from damage. Seems like in your area you could come up with some weathered metal roofing for this purpose fairly easy. This could give you the best of both worlds, keeping with the theme and protecting the wall.

 

[kd3pc]

ditch both drywall and wood and get porcelain on steel panels. The first Gulf Station I worked at in the late 1960's had them and cleaning them weekly, along with the floor was part of my job. For the most part we wheeled everything out on the apron and soaped things up, hosed it off and squeegeed them dry.

I have OSB walls and ceilings in my garage as it is a working garage and it holds up a lot better than drywall. I painted my OSB gloss white and have some touch up to do, but it is quite bright with my poor lighting (cheap leftover CFL and two test LEDs)

 

[Choirboy]

What about my ceiling? I'm not sure what would look the most 'vintage' while still reflecting light well... perhaps corrugated roofing?

 

[Hobbit]

I have about 110' of painted block wall & about 50' that is drywall. All walls need paint touchup from time to time but 20' of the drywall section is in a high use area and needs constant dent repair as well. Bare wood would not solve my problem it would be defaced by some kind of product overspray ruining it's bare finish.

 

[xtremek]

I'm going to use salvaged barn wood to about 3'-4' high and then drywall. There's a product you can get to make the wood fire retardant. I've seen it on one of the threads in here. The wood I salvaged was cresoated and very dark. I borrowed Dad's power washer to clean it up and it ended up a ton lighter. I think it'll be really cool looking when I'm done, but I do plan on throwing a coat or two ot the fire retardant on it. Like Falcon67 said, you won't have to be quite so careful about bumping into the walls.

 

[J.A.Varela]

I'd do it in wood but create a corner specifically for welding and grinding. Maybe just cover the wood in that area with some painted 24 ga. sheet. Copper would be AWESOME(and antiquated) if your wallet can stand it.
Fire extinguishers and cheap smoke alarms are always your friends.

 

[Just F Me]

I do have a hole in my OSB, took a golf cart at full song to do it.

Pics of the golf cart?

 

[nine4gmc]

We just moved in a house with a metal shop out back and I have been working on making it more user friendly. I am building a center divider wall and decided to go with used fence boards for a more vintage look, pus they were free for the taking, found along roadsides before trash day. I plan to go with flat roofing tin(second pic) along the 4' strip below the fence boards to help with sparks from my welder, plasma and grinding and finish out the side walls to match. Here is a pic of my upper wall as of now.

 

[Stuart in MN]

You didn't specifically mention it, but I assume the new shop is detached from the house? If not, you will need a fire barrier between the shop and house which is typically done with drywall.

 

[Choirboy]

Yes, detached garage. Built on a 'mostly' straight foundation that I believe was a hogshed before it was torn down, and possibly a chicken coop before that. The foundation is probably original to the house; trying to make the building look like it belongs. Seems the overwhelming majority doesn't think the wood will be oppressively dark, looks like I'll be going with my original idea of aged wood walls with steel corrugated roofing material on the ceiling. Build thread to follow when I remember to get the photos off of my camera.

 

[frankd]

I don't think the wood would be too dark as long as you have adequate lighting. I lined my garage walls with plywood so that I can drive screws into it and hang stuff without having to hang it off a stud.
My vote is for the wood.

 

[rippered]

Some day I will white wash the barn wood I put up in my shop. It is just a little too dark.

 

[readhead]

Having done a lot of historic renovation work I would vote for T&G pine. The kind that has a v groove on one side to look like 2 1/2" boards. It was very common in commercial buildings and out buildings. Can be painted any color of course. It was often installed verticle up to around 34" and then horizontal the rest of the way up. Pretty easy to install.

 

[p_mori7]

Rent a planer and a joiner and run your barn wood through them. It will come out nice & flat, easy to install; and A LOT lighter in color. Then seal it with a clear UV resistant coating.

 

[Beemer533]

We just moved in a house with a metal shop out back and I have been working on making it more user friendly. I am building a center divider wall and decided to go with used fence boards for a more vintage look, pus they were free for the taking, found along roadsides before trash day. I plan to go with flat roofing tin(second pic) along the 4' strip below the fence boards to help with sparks from my welder, plasma and grinding and finish out the side walls to match. Here is a pic of my upper wall as of now.

That is nice looking

I like the reclaimed look. The price is right as well!