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Williams Ratchet B-54 Flex-head thread

Speed-Racer

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Jason280

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Bringing this thread back to life...

I didnt realize there was much demand for these ratchets, I have one collecting dust in the ratchet drawer. Thought about fabbing up a tool to remove the plate, but never got around to it..
 

woody 73

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Holy Cow I just picked up a nos last sat. and I paid the guy $12.00 dollars which I thought I might of overpaid...You got to be kidding me $104.01 dollars just unreal!:eek::eek::eek:
 

exmaxima1

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Holy Cow I just picked up a nos last sat. and I paid the guy $12.00 dollars which I thought I might of overpaid...You got to be kidding me $104.01 dollars just unreal!:eek::eek::eek:

+1
I looked in my tool chest and found I had one too! I had no idea they would fetch that much :eyecrazy:
 

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Jason280

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Ok, let's not all post them on eBay at the same time, don't want to over saturate the market!! ;)
 

Randy Kegg

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Are ratchet repair kits available for the B-54? I have the Vulcan version of this, and I could use a repair kit.

Thanks.........
 

PDub88

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I just ran across one on ebay and am super psyched because I never even knew these existed! This is too awesome!
 

PDub88

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Are they fine tooth? I prefer the fine tooth mechanism on the old school Superratchets, as I already own a couple. Plus they were old school made in the USA quality, regardless of how overrated some people think that is.
 
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exmaxima1

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Are they fine tooth? I prefer the fine tooth mechanism on the old school Superratchets, as I already own a couple. Plus they were old school made in the USA quality, regardless of how overrated some people think that is.

The parts are interchangeabe between the standard and flex head Superratchets
 

PDub88

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These are super heavy duty and built like a tank.
The newer Williams versions use the Facom style mechanism.

The older or newer ratchets are built like a tank? Yes I understand the mechanisms are universal across all superratchets, depending on drive size.
 

dnschmidt

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In my opinion the best ratchets ever made. I've got a goodly stash of them along with the repair kits and the wrenches to remove and install the modules. There is now and has never been a stronger ratchet than the Superratchet.
 

uncwstudent

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I got really excited about this thread because I just listed one on Ebay and I had visions of them going for lots of money. It's not....and then I realized that the original post was 2015.

Now after reading this thread....I want to keep it...and I can't. (Someone bid on it) :-( Are these super rare? I just happened to come upon one but haven't seen anymore and now I'm worried I won't be able to find another one.

I also just sold a 1/4" Williams RHFT supperratchet that I now wish that I kept!!!!!! :-(

The only thing I hate about the supperratchets is how frustrating it is to take them apart to clean them. No other ratchet gives me as much of a headache (the heads seemed to always be seized).
 
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uncwstudent

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I didnt even know that.

Honestly, id like to but now that I think about it, Id feel like a jerk for doing that. Ill just have to man up and keep my eyes peeled. Thanks though!
 

mikebaker1129

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The older or newer ratchets are built like a tank? Yes I understand the mechanisms are universal across all superratchets, depending on drive size.

Older style is the tank, newer unit with the screw in the top of the selector is the Facom style ,not as strong in my opinion.

Picked up a clean used B52 3/8 drive this weekend at the swap meet $5 .
 
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The collector

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JSCraftsman

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Checking in here as well. To tighten up the flop, do you simply peen the rod going thru the fork?
Sometimes that does the trick, and also squeezing the two forks back together may also work, but that only will last so long until the head is loose once again. A second alternative you could try if the flop is excessive enough, but sometimes wrapping a thin string (believe it or not) or flexible wire around the retention pin in the opening between the head and fork joint to fill in the gap, can solve the floppy head issue, given it's wrapped around the pin enough times. But the correct way to fix the problem is to knock out the head retention pin and spread out the lock washer with a couple sets of pliers, so it puts good tight pressure between the head and fork once again. Reinstall the washer and the head pin and your good to go again. Sometimes it can be very difficult to knock out the head pin, especially with S-O made flex joints. I actually made my own setup where I took one half of a vice jaw insert, drilled out a hole (slighly larger than the pin diameter) to act as the pin removal area. Aided with a small amount of penetrating oil spray on the joint, then I use a pushing/driving plug on the opposite side to push the pin through the head and out the fork on the opposite side. As the vice is tightened the pin goes into the hole I drilled on the jaw insert, allowing the pin to be easily removed with even hitting the ground. I came up with this idea as an alternative to hitting/punching the pin out with a punch, which can damage things too easily allot of times (mostly my hands, lol). So far I have used this removal jig on three S-O flex heads to remove their head pins, and it has worked beautifully every time. Not much beats the clamping/pushing pressure of a vice, and most of us common handy folk, don't have a hydraulic press handy to use, haha. We have to im'pro'vise... and MacGyver it. 🤔-JS
 
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