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Williams Torx and Hex Sockets

joesregalproject

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Joined
Sep 9, 2021
Messages
57
Location
Western Pennsylvania
I was going through my tool box last night taking an inventory of what is missing, broken, and worn out and my Torx and hex sockets are looking a bit weary. I have a few sets, each one is about ten pieces or so. One set is Pittsburgh Harbor Freight and the other two are Gearhead brand which used to be sold by Pepboys. The Gearhead sockets were never great quality to begin with, but they were lifetime warranty and there used to be a Pepboys about 3 minutes away from me so that if one broke, I could just take it back and swap it and it only took me a couple minutes. Now that Pepboys is gone so I don't have that luxury anymore. A few are missing and several of them are pretty well stripped.

The Harbor Freight ones are mostly in good condition but I'm missing a few from the set and it was a small set to begin with.

That said I'm looking to buy a set that is better quality and complete. I don't need tool truck quality but I'd like something a little better than Harbor Freight. I saw this Williams set on eBay and was leaning toward it as it is relatively complete, not very expensive and should be a good "middle of the road" brand. Any thoughts?

 
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bob15

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Dec 8, 2011
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6,863
Location
Northeasten, CT
Skip the set. Look for Snap On, older Bonney and/or Proto sockets that holds the hex bit into the socket and it doesn't have a step-down in it. This way when you break the hex bit, all you need is an Allen wrench to cut a new bit for your socket. If not, you might want to buy extra bits for when you really need to remove a fastener and you snap the bit off.

Below: The broken bit socket is a Wright socket, the one with the set-screw holding the hex bit in is a Bonney. Which is easier and cheaper to replace when a bit breaks?
 

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Tools4Me

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Jun 22, 2021
Messages
546
I have a bit of an alternate perspective. Since you already have a bunch of bit sockets, what about buying good quality replacement bits from Zephyr, Apex, Wiha, Wera, etc. and then punching out the old insert bits and hammering in new ones? Then possibly buy any missing sizes on Ebay.

I sold off almost all my pre-made bit sockets, because they took up too much room and I wasn't super happy with them in that form. Not versatile enough. I switched instead to a nice assortment of good quality bits along with some insert bit holder and power bit holder sockets. I picked up a couple with c rings, a couple magnetic ones, and a couple with a spring loaded ball bearing for the bit retention. I use 1/4" and 3/8" drive locking ball bearing retention sockets for my power bits. Now I just pick the ideal bit holder socket for the job, pop a bit in it and go to work. If a bit breaks or wears out I throw it away and replace it cheaply with a new one. There are many good quality bit brands I can pick for replacements, so I usually pick whatever brand is the easiest to source for a good price at the time. All of my bits can be used in a bit handle as well, so my general use screwdriver options were improved for free in the process.

When I only had pressed together bit sockets, I also found myself being lazier with bit replacements. I took more risks using worn bit tips that should have already been thrown away, because a bit replacement required leaving what I was doing to punch out the old bit and hammer in a new one.

In regards to hex or allen bit sockets, I mostly do what bob15 does. For allen bit sockets between the sizes of 1/4" and 3/8" (or 6mm and 10mm) I use 3/8" drive bit sockets with set screws so I can easily and economically cut down L wrenches as needed to replace or make custom length bit sockets. That size range is usually more expensive in insert bit form, so those are the best sizes to DIY. However, for smaller sized bit sockets I still prefer insert bits. It would be cheaper to use cut down L wrenches, but I find small allen wrench shafts to be too twisty, springy, or flexible when used in a socket with a ratchet. I prefer small sizes to stay thick shafted and rigid up until the tip. Easier to feel what's going on with the fastener that way. When I need the shaft to be long or narrow for clearance, I use an L wrench.

I wish you good luck, whatever you decide to do.
 

JradM

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Joined
Sep 4, 2019
Messages
1,813
Location
Alberta
This forum tends to skew towards the expensive options. Makes sense - we're a bunch of tool snobs.

There is nothing wrong with those Williams bit sockets. I bet they would be great.

Mac/Proto RBRT might be better, but it doesn't sound like you want to spend that kind of money. From what I can tell, Craftsman is just about to launch a "V-Series" line of tools that include big sockets with tech akin to a scaled-back RBRT. Might be something to investigate if you want to go that route.

Bonhus also makes their own bit sockets and/or bits to be used in sockets. That's another high quality option to investigate. Bondhus makes hex key products for Snap-on for context. I've no idea how their sockets compare - but I guarantee the bit part will be top notch.
 

Odd-job

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Joined
Aug 13, 2017
Messages
2,256
Location
SF Bay Area
Have been diversifying my hex and torx sockets as of late. As a DIYer I work mostly on bikes and Mercedes which are heavy on both hex and torx. Started off with a semi comprehensive general set like the Williams you linked to, but in reality rarely use them anymore. Find I don't run into SAE hex much and rarely use metrix hex greater than 6mm or torx greater than T30. Tamper proof which are in some sets I probably should have skipped entirely. Can't remember the last time I ran into one except for opening up a Milwaukee M18 battery.

In terms of usage I think I reach for the following in terms of allen and torx socketry:
  1. 2-6mm Zephyr bits in bit holders - agree with the above comment that bits are nice especially in the most used sizes since they will eventually break anyways
  2. VIM stubby torx and allen 1/4 drive - these get in tight places where others cannot
  3. VIM impact torx and allen in 3/8 drive - run these on an M12 stubby, makes disassembly a breeze but sometimes results in more rounded bolts especially allens
  4. Proto RBRTs - these are new, but seem to work on slightly rounded problem child bolts
  5. Miscellaneous long and mid length allen torx sockets - mix of Carlyle and VIM - in reality anything made out of S2 from Taiwan seems to last about the same
Probably more than you wanted to know, but kind of wish I knew about the above before buying bigger sets.
 
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