williamson boiler mod 1135-601, Temp stuck at 140F,

[ou6066]

I have a Williamson boiler Model 1135-601 and it is only 2 years old. My boiler control hi limit is set at 190F, but the boiler only heats up to 140 before it shuts the burner off. It continues to circulate and call for heat but will not get up to temp.

1. I use multimeter to test the resistance of the thermal sensor for boiler. The resistance is in good range.
2. I test the continuity of the limit switch and rollout switch. All good.

One thing i notice:
When the boiler is at 140F, if I change my control hi limit to 200F, the boiler will heat up to 200F before it shuts the burner off. But the boiler cools down and won't heat up until it reach 140~150F. Then the maintain temperature at 140F.

Please help me out.

 

[ou6066]

Anyone knows why?

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I'll take "Outdoor Reset" for $100.

Did I win?

Phil

 

[yeldogt]

The high limit is just that ... mine is at 180. 190 is high ......... do you have an indirect tank for HW? If so what the temp when it loads.


Sound like you may have a secondary control == outdoor reset.

What the heat delivery -- Radiators ?

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I'll take "Outdoor Reset" for $100.

Did I win?

Phil

Me, too. And if he doesn't have one, I'll say the differential is not set right.

Tommy

 

[ou6066]

Unfortunately, no outside reset found on my boiler. The boiler was fine for past 2 years. Where is the differential setting ?

 

[ou6066]

The high limit is just that ... mine is at 180. 190 is high ......... do you have an indirect tank for HW? If so what the temp when it loads.


Sound like you may have a secondary control == outdoor reset.

What the heat delivery -- Radiators ?

The boiler directly feed from a water line.

Can’t find outdoor reset on the control. Baseboard is the heat delivery.

 

[ou6066]

Anyone else could help me out?

 

[EEErik]

Fortunately you do have some type of outdoor rest/ operating control on the boiler. The high limit is the last resort before the boiler makes steam. A quick search found that the boiler has an "inferred heat program" which changes the water temperature for the demand aka outdoor reset.

 

[ou6066]

Fortunately you do have some type of outdoor rest/ operating control on the boiler. The high limit is the last resort before the boiler makes steam. A quick search found that the boiler has an "inferred heat program" which changes the water temperature for the demand aka outdoor reset.

Could you please let me know where I can find it in the user guide?

 

[ou6066]

This is the guide I used. https://www.williamson-thermoflo.com/sites/default/files/field-file/gwa_manual.pdf

 

[ou6066]

In page 21-22, I can’t find any other outdoor reset. I don’t have DHW in my system. I do have a low water switch.

 

[yeldogt]

Take some pictures

 

[EEErik]

Read page 16. Also i'm all for DIY but boilers are not a thing to mess around with if you do not have a general idea of what you are doing. If you seriously think something is wrong, call a professional as I do not know your level of electrical competency.

 

[ddarlac]

Were you able to resolve the problem? I have exactly the same issue with a similar williamson boiler - even my heat guy did not know how to reset the high limit (I do not have an external T sensonr, and the boiler seems to think that I do!)

 

[EdLane]

Update:

It’s the potentiometers on the control unit. I spoke to a Williamson rep. I replaced the control unit for $130, found it at suppliesdepot.com. Model 1135-601. Everything works perfect now. I’m gonna clean and spray the pots on the old control unit and leave it as a spare. I’m thinking of those pots get dusty and prevent it from making accurate settings. I know that from playing guitar and dealing with stubborn pots...

I’m handy and do a lot of construction But I’m in no way a pro or plumber so take my advice as just an opinion. But heres my recommendation if u don’t wanna spend the money on a new unit ...
1. Shut off the power to boiler
2. Take pics of all the wiring harnesses on the control unit
3. Remove the wires to the control unit being careful not to break the tabs. And also use a long nose pliers to pull the single connectors as to not damage the crimp.
4. remove the control unit. loosen 2 bottom screws and remove top screw, slide it up and out
5. Pull off the back cover. It has 2 tabs on each side, all you need is a thin screwdriver to pry it off. Be gentle
6. Remove the knobs on the front for the temp and economy control
7. Carefully Remove the front cover while pulling out the pcb
8. Locate the 2 pots on the pcb
9. blow air and a lubricant (like DeOxit) inside the open spaces of the pots while turning them
10. Reverse all steps

I hope this helps you
Let us all know anything else that fixing this

 

[ToecuttersZ1R]

This question is for everyone that is having this problem.

What is the position of your economy adjust knob?

 

[Jin.T]

This question is for everyone that is having this problem.

What is the position of your economy adjust knob?

I’m having the same issue with my heater!! Please help,

The economy knob is at max



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ToecuttersZ1R]

I’m having the same issue with my heater!! Please help,

The economy knob is at max



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Set the economy knob to minimum. The water temp should go up.

 

[Jin.T]

Set the economy knob to minimum. The water temp should go up.

Thanks, I’ll give that a try


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mfspieg]

I also had a defective control board for Williamson's boiler model 1135-601. Make that 2 control boards. The replacement failed after 2 weeks!

Exact same problem: when it was very cold outside, boiler repeatedly shut off at 140 degrees, even tho its thermostat is set to 180. My contractor said he knows of 2 other failures, just in our immediate area. I called W-T, and a tech there told me they get a few returned boards every month; they all fail the same way. It was first marketed around 2012 or '13, but to his knowledge no fix has been applied. The manufacturer of the board - according to him - was UTI (United Technologies inc). I'd love to wring their neck for not fixing what is obviously a common failure mode.

I have a suspicion that the control board has a design defect; most of the failures mentioned here, and elsewhere on the web, are when the outside temps are quite frigid (below teens, single digits). When outside warms up, the boiler works properly.

Upon my 2nd, now warrantee, replacement, I again called W-T, this time with my contractor. We got a tech who knew little of the problem, but logged our failure for their infrequent reports sent to marketing/sales/QA/etc. So, dear Internet Readers with the same control board failures, I urge you to call Williamson-Thermoflo.

 

[mandritoiu]

Update:

It’s the potentiometers on the control unit. I spoke to a Williamson rep. I replaced the control unit for $130, found it at suppliesdepot.com. Model 1135-601. Everything works perfect now. I’m gonna clean and spray the pots on the old control unit and leave it as a spare. I’m thinking of those pots get dusty and prevent it from making accurate settings. I know that from playing guitar and dealing with stubborn pots...

I’m handy and do a lot of construction But I’m in no way a pro or plumber so take my advice as just an opinion. But heres my recommendation if u don’t wanna spend the money on a new unit ...
1. Shut off the power to boiler
2. Take pics of all the wiring harnesses on the control unit
3. Remove the wires to the control unit being careful not to break the tabs. And also use a long nose pliers to pull the single connectors as to not damage the crimp.
4. remove the control unit. loosen 2 bottom screws and remove top screw, slide it up and out
5. Pull off the back cover. It has 2 tabs on each side, all you need is a thin screwdriver to pry it off. Be gentle
6. Remove the knobs on the front for the temp and economy control
7. Carefully Remove the front cover while pulling out the pcb
8. Locate the 2 pots on the pcb
9. blow air and a lubricant (like DeOxit) inside the open spaces of the pots while turning them
10. Reverse all steps

I hope this helps you
Let us all know anything else that fixing this

I have the same symptom, and I reached the same conclusion, after playing with the potentiometer.

Then I found your post. Now I'm pretty confident that this is it.

It's enough to press it a bit (not just rotate) and the boiler ignites, before shutting itself off again.
I'll get a new control board.

 

[fitter30]

All boilers have two temp controls one is a high temp limit and a operating control. Operating control can be a outdoor reset. Some hi limits are manual reset.

 

[mandritoiu]

All boilers have two temp controls one is a high temp limit and a operating control. Operating control can be a outdoor reset. Some hi limits are manual reset.

Mine has NO outdoor control. The designated place on the board is empty. The chip is missing.