To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Wilton Vise Restoration idea

b7labelle

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 14, 2012
Messages
665
Location
Michigan
Recently I picked up this Wilton 1780 off CL. It is in good shape, besides the multiple colors and some surface rust. My girlfriends dad owns a body shop and has some nice blue paint he has offered to paint it with. I will be using some sort of paint stripper to remove the paint layers, then set up an electrolysis vat to remove the rust.

I will have to transport the parts some distance, and may not be able to immediately paint them after the parts are removed from the vat. As soon as the metal is exposed to the air it will begin to slowly rust again. I'm thinking about running down to the local arts/crafts store and buying some bulk wax. If I have the wax ready and melted, I think I can coat all the parts to seal them from the air until I can get it painted. When the time comes all I should have to do is melt off the wax with a heat gun and prime/paint.

Think the wax idea will work? Or does someone have another suggestion? I'm thinking thats going to be a lot of wax..
:beer:

8298030287_daafdff4a0_z.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

BJ42LX

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
2,811
Location
WNY
Wax and paint don't mix. I'm not a painter but that sounds like a bad idea.

Call your FIL and see what he says. As a painter I'm sure he always takes precautions to keep contaminants and oil of the cars he's painting.

When it comes out of the electrolysis wash it and get it dry quickly. Wrap in newspaper and put it in a plastic bag. When you get to the shop use a wire brush to clean off any flash rust that may have developed.

If you're set on coating it with something. Hose it down with WD40. When you get to the shop, use a full can (or two) of brake cleaner to wash off the WD40.
 
Last edited:

SweetD

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2010
Messages
3,265
Location
Rhode Island
Blow off newly cleaned parts with compressed air. Then do as mentioned above with dessicant packs.
 

BJ42LX

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
2,811
Location
WNY
b7,

This is getting pretty complicated, isn't it? Where do you live? I'll come by and take that vise off your hands for you. Problem solved - you won't have to worry about it anymore!
 

Catalyze

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
1,369
Location
New Mexico
After the electro bath, hose off with dawn and a scrub brush, blow dry, and hit it with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. If you live where I do, then you are good for 6 months since we have 6% humidity (it's a dry hurricane force wind heat). Now go grab a big garbage bag and put your vise parts in it. Go grab a bag of the cheapest rice you can buy and dump it in the bag with your parts. Get as much air out as possible and tie it shut. Don't poke a hole in the bag or you will hate yourself and so will your wife as she slips on the rice.
Craig
 

KesterHouse

Active member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
34
Location
Massachusetts
Hi ho,

And just to add a quickie to Catalyze's excellent advice - you may know this already having been in the body shop biz before - if you use compressed air to blow dry after electrolysis, ensure you've got a filter/drier on the air line, and that it does NOT have an in-line tool oiler. I prefer to actually use an old blow drier after I towel off stuff I've taken from the vat, for what it's worth.

Hope that helps,
-JeffK.
 

dumper

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2006
Messages
673
Location
Oregon
for $^!#@ sake! Its a vise! Are you eventually going to use it, or is it going to a museum? Maybe you could Life- flight it in to be painted. Hahahahaha.
 
Last edited:

RatchetMan

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 23, 2011
Messages
199
for $^!#@ sake! Its a vise! Are you eventually going to use it, or is it going to a museum? Maybe you could Life- flight it in to be painted. Hahahahaha.

I concur with this post. It's a vise, not a '57 Chevy. Sometimes you gotta step back and wonder if you're not putting $500 worth of effort into a $100 item.

That being said, I'm sure it will look nice when you are done.
 
OP
B

b7labelle

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 14, 2012
Messages
665
Location
Michigan
for $^!#@ sake! Its a vise! Are you eventually going to use it, or is it going to a museum? Maybe you could Life- flight it in to be painted. Hahahahaha.

Haha I know I know. Sometimes I get to wrapped up into things. I do have a small mobile sand blaster that a friend is letting me borrow.. I think the best idea is to wait and bring the blaster with me to the shop. Should be able get everything stripped at the shop. If any oil residue passes through the air line I had can a oil solvent to clean it up.

'57 Chevy...... I don't know if you can tell from the picture, but I'm a Dodge guy ;-)
 

bora492

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
78
Location
Riverside, CA
Buy some Metal Prep, found at any auto paint store. You just wipe it on, and it prevents rust, and aids paint adhesion.

Dave
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

LG63

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 7, 2012
Messages
1,003
I use Jasco Prep & Primer from Lowes after sand blasting. I believe it is phosphoric acid and seems to protect against fingerprint/humidity rust for several months.
 

Davefr

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2010
Messages
11,848
Location
OR
I don't see enough rust to bother with an electrolysis setup. A wire brush is all you need after the paint remover.

Don't wax it. A good bodyshop should dip it in a phosphoric acid metal prep/cleaner right before priming to remove the last little bit of surface rust.
 

1982fxr

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2012
Messages
10,012
Location
Phoenix
take it apart

put in electrolysis--this will remove rust and paint, no need for stripper

remove from tank, wire brush and rinse with water.

dry with hair dryer (or whatever)

wire wheel

prime

You can at least prime it, right?
 

Lookin4'67Galaxieconv

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Messages
16,638
Location
Atlanta, GA
for $^!#@ sake! Its a vise! Are you eventually going to use it, or is it going to a museum? Maybe you could Life- flight it in to be painted. Hahahahaha.

He asked for advise on his idea. Not for someone to post a wiseass comment. Don't like the thread, go elsewhere. Got it?
 

dumper

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2006
Messages
673
Location
Oregon
He asked for advise on his idea. Not for someone to post a wiseass comment. Don't like the thread, go elsewhere. Got it?

judging by the responses of our fellow GJers, your post did nothing more than waste a few seconds of some people's life, while mine acutally encouraged further discussion of the topic at hand. So, it appears that you should be the one to go get lost. So, go!
 

Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,321
Location
The Badlands
He asked for advise on his idea. Not for someone to post a wiseass comment. Don't like the thread, go elsewhere. Got it?

:+1:

judging by the responses of our fellow GJers, your post did nothing more than waste a few seconds of some people's life, while mine acutally encouraged further discussion of the topic at hand. So, it appears that you should be the one to go get lost. So, go!

No, you wasted a few seconds of your life with each of your posts, and others lives reading them. You don't like the topic? Move on...

To the OP;

E tank will most likely remove both paint and rust as mentioned, a light oiling and then Degrease before painting. I personally HATE the surface finish left on after blasting any unpainted surfaces, so leave the blaster out of it.
 

bran1har

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2012
Messages
118
Location
CT
I wouldn't bother with the electrolysis. Its cast iron, it just develops surface corrosion that can be removed with a wire wheel. I'd wire wheel the whole thing. Then rattle can it. Then lube it. But think about it, its a vise, it looks like it does now for a reason. Should you even bother painting it? It will look like it does now with little use. You'r vise, You're call.
 

Davefr

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2010
Messages
11,848
Location
OR
You can at least prime it, right?

Why would he prime it if his father in law has a body shop?? The primer/sealers used in body shops are far superior to the homeowner rattle cans?? (ex: 2 part epoxy primers like PPG DPLF series)
 
OP
B

b7labelle

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 14, 2012
Messages
665
Location
Michigan
Well let me state this.. I am looking for helpful suggestions. "It's a GD vise" / "rattle can it" aren't helping me achieve my goal. I will post a thread later after I paint it with what I ended up doing.

If you're gonna do something, do it right...
Works well for me at home and on the job.

Merry Christmas everyone!
 

dumper

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2006
Messages
673
Location
Oregon
I picked up an old Morgan vise a few months ago that looked much worse than yours. I removed the paint and then decided to just leave it naked. Not only did I not have to worry about a paint failure, but its very easy to maintain- just slop some oil or wd40 on it, and use it. It also has a nice look to it bare. It can always be painted in the future.
 

Attachments

  • morgan1.jpg
    morgan1.jpg
    146.4 KB · Views: 25
  • morgangray.jpg
    morgangray.jpg
    136.6 KB · Views: 39
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom